Hello Steve!
Funny you messaged me about this. I actually just typed notes for a buddy on how to make an 07-08 R1 keep up with a fully modded 09 or newer R1, for half the price!
Ok, well, let's pick your ride apart bit by bit. First of all, if you look at the dyno charts and torque charts of the 07-08 vs 09-12 R1s, they are suprisingly similar. So, if this is the case, why does the 09-12 feel so much more responsive in lower RPMs? I'm not 100% positive about this, but, from what I believe that I have read is that the newer R1s get that sensation from a larger rear sprocket, or more teeth. This change in gearing is the #1 thing that people notice when jumping from 07-08 to newer R1s. It’s not all due to the engine.
Your buddy has a full-system exhaust, Air/Fuel is tuned in via PCV, and his bike is un-restricted via the Jett-Flash. Um…that will also have a tremendous impact on how a bike feels. So, if your bike is bone-stock, it is really restricted.
Sorry for the bearer of bad news, but NO ECU reflash will make your bike feel like his. But, read on… I got good news, followed by GREAT NEWS!
So, if you want my opinion on the cheapest way to make your bike feel like your buddies 09, follow these simple mods.
If you want a very similar feel to your bike only, simply change your sprockets. -1 in the front will make a noticeable difference, or +3 in the back, or a combination. This will affect your speedometer, and a speedohealer is needed for proper adjustment. Check the Forum for advice on the best sprocket choice. I just found a website that may help you though, do a google search for gearcommander, or something like that. It will show you the changes from front to rear and all sorts of other info. You can do some research on the stock 09 R1s and their gearing and just match it if you would like, or actually count your buddies front teeth and rear teeth-on his sprockets not in his mouth! Gearing alone is the single biggest seat of your pants game changer, and also the cheapest in the long run. Maybe $200. Your bike will now feel like his, but in an all out drag race to 180 MPH, he will beat you, but around town, probably feel the same. It’s not all about engine mods for sensation.
So, your buddy has lower gearing, AND has updated his power via tuned full system exhaust, AND has his ECU unlocked, so I got more for you. Read on to almost or even match your buddy for super duper cheep. Then you can laugh at him when he has spent over $2K in mods, and we will get you there in under a grand, or even closer to $650! Note: typically, a full system exhaust will have slightly less HP/Trq in low RPMs, but a couple more ponies at the top of the RPMs. The stock header with EXUP valve will be the best for street riders because it will maintain low HP/Tq and only give up a couple of ponies up top!
1) Get your ECU unlocked however you want. Jett, ECUnleashed, Garage Endeavors, Flash-Tune all unlock your ECU. My recommendation is to get the Flash-Tune tuning interface option. That way you can make multiple changes to your ECU anytime you want, as many times as you want. The unrestricting of the ECU will allow you to get 100% of what your stock set-up will allow, vs the stock ECU has some restrictions on timing, throttle opening, etc. Simple reflash from Flash Tune, $150?, up to interface for $350? Up to you. I fully recommend the Flash Tune interface though. It is the single best R1 owner investment IMO.
2) Get a set of slip-ons, or for about $100, get a A&R racing baffle kit. This is a DIY kit that allows the rider to use their stock exhaust cans, gut them, and remake them essentially into a set of slip-ons for super cheap! Dyno testing has confirmed that they make very similar HP/Trq gains. DIY A&R race baffle kit is around $100, slip ons up to a grand. Big HP/Trq gains from 3,200 RPM to about 5K, then about 2-4 throughout the rest of the RPM range.
3) Gut the cats. Either buy a Y pipe or DIY. There is a thread on gutting the cat on this forum. It may or may not make more HP, but since you are doing the mufflers, do this at the same time. This will all but eliminate the cooked thigh syndrome. Our bikes have 2 cats in the y pipe, and those things get HOT for them to do their job. They are somewhat restrictive however to exhaust flow. DIY cat gutting, $0 if you have the tools, a shop will do it for $75, or buy a y pipe for $250.
-- Understand that once you start changing the factory exhaust, the factory tuning is now being changed, (air flow, etc). More airflow is better, but our EXUP is tuned to work with stock restrictions (stock muffler, stock cats, etc). So, do too many changes on the stock exhaust, and things start changing for the worse with your engines performance. At this point, I’m suggesting keeping the stock headers and the EXUP valve in place, but removing the 2 cats and doing the race baffles.
4) You must change the Air/Fuel now due to the free’er flowing exhaust. You can easily do this via the Flash-Tune interface. I would start with any slip on map, see how your bike run. Then try a slip on with a y pipe map, check the performance, then finally load a full exhaust system map and see how the bike runs. It should run best with the slip on plus y pipe map. Price is $0 if you have the interface.
If you follow these steps, your R1 will fly buddy! Remember, gearing alone will make the bike much more responsive. 07-08 R1s have a loooong first gear, and these suggested sprocket changes will really make your bike responsive. It might be all that you need/want! But, for a little bit of DIY, and some chump change, you can make your R1 breath blue flames and you will be able to keep up with your buddy!
Full DIY, no PCV or Auto Tune: Sprockets $200, Flash Tune interface $350, DIY race baffles $100, gut the cat $0, TOTAL: $650
*You don’t need to remove the AIS for this set-up, but the bike will backfire on decel.
**Graves recommends keeping the factory air filter also. The other filters didn’t provide much if any improvement-but did allow more dirt into the engine, and we know more dirt = faster wear on engine.