I got the type 1 ECU flashing interface from Flashtune today.
Here are the tuneable features for the 07-08 R1:
-Fuel table bias (ECU uses a MAP vs RPM and a TPS vs RPM table for fueling, the bias adjusts how much each table contributes to the final value used to control the injectors.)
-TPS vs RPM Fuel map (per cylinder)
-MAP vs RPM Fuel map (per cylinder)
-TPS vs RPM Ignition map (per gear)
-Engine braking
-YCCT APS vs RPM throttle maps (not directly edittable, can choose between two preset maps: stock and "race")
-Fan temps (stock or 205*F on, 195*F off)
-Immobilizer Operation (Normal or Bypassed)
-Yes, you can import .djm PCIII maps into the software, the software then scales the fuel maps for flashing the ECU just like the PCIII does.
Flashtune does claim to be actively expanding the software to allow for other adjustments as well.
I flashed my ECU with the "race" YCCT map and used the 6th gear ignition map for all gears. My bike does now idle around 1900 RPMs. After looking at the "race" YCCT map closer I believe it may be to blame. Aside from the high idle everything worked great. I went out for a quick ride and was able to power up 2nd gear sit-down wheelies, I tried hard before but it never happened. The bike does feel like it has a little extra pep.
Here are a couple of screenshots of the YCCT maps and the 1st and 6th gear ignition maps.
I got to ride this weekend with the ECU flashed. What a huge difference. Bike seems so much more responsive. I didn't even notice it until later in the day..no back firing at all! Fan coming on earlier, throttle response better, better power range,etc. Very noticeable loss of engine breaking..especially noticable down hills in the canyons! I currently have 75% fuel bias setting. I am going to switch to TPM vs RPM. Seems to idle a little rough sometimes while sitting at lights. Hopefullt this will help with that. I also have engine breaking set to 20. I would like a little bit more..so I might go up to 30? Any thoughts on that? Also, is there a worry about flashing to much? I have only flashed once so far. Might do another for the above settings. I also am waiting for sprockets, so might do another for the speedo and other fine tweeks.
I got to ride this weekend with the ECU flashed. What a huge difference. Bike seems so much more responsive. I didn't even notice it until later in the day..no back firing at all! Fan coming on earlier, throttle response better, better power range,etc. Very noticeable loss of engine breaking..especially noticable down hills in the canyons! I currently have 75% fuel bias setting. I am going to switch to TPM vs RPM. Seems to idle a little rough sometimes while sitting at lights. Hopefullt this will help with that. I also have engine breaking set to 20. I would like a little bit more..so I might go up to 30? Any thoughts on that? Also, is there a worry about flashing to much? I have only flashed once so far. Might do another for the above settings. I also am waiting for sprockets, so might do another for the speedo and other fine tweeks.
hi have some news, i bought some arrows exhausth headers, and i changing the cilinder gasket due to overheating, but i will be returning to the dyno, and this time, i have rented the bank for two days.. so.. i hope to do a full map. i'm hopping to pass the 175cv at wheel..
after this i will post the results.. happy ridding
hi all
just got some custom flash tune maps. im trying from jagi for my 08 R1,they also have variable engine braking.have to say they are awsome.and what a very nice guy he is too.
now can i ask. anyone have a cordona strain gauge quick shifter working with the flash tune software.as just got one ,will be fitting soon,already have the ecu adapter wiring pc type plug and other end goes into ecu.
the q/shifter also has the pc connector-two wires,but then also has other plug with red and black do these go to battery to power the q/shifter control box.
and what would be a good setup for kill time and preload.
cheers.
briyam
Need some pictures here. Typically a cordona strain gauge quick shifter is a standalone unit, and does the ignition kills all on its own, because you have to hook it up to the coils. Are you just talking about just using the sensor from this unit?
Hi tad
have bought cordona gp strain gauge q/shifter,its just the sensor with small controller box and has the white 2x wire power commander connector,and two wires one for switch live and one for earth-ground.I also have the flash tune adapter power commander plug that goes into ecu plug.
now have it all fitted last night,just to check and setup.hoping that it works well.
It appears I was able to Flash successfully! Can't ride due to an incoming snow storm but on start up it defaults to A and sounds good on start up. Starting it up with the Graves LINK cans and Y pipe in my garage I need ear plugs. :lol
Can't wait to get it out and experience the changes. :thumbup
So I just spent waaaaay too much time trying to get all caught up on this thread since its been for ever since I have looked. It has definitely turned in to a Flash Tune troubleshooting thread. Is there any word on the Autotune that was rumored a while ago? I might just unsubscribe from this thread and check the FAQ since that seems to have all the relevant info.
Hey everyone. Not sure if this is the right place to ask.
I purchased the flash tune interface and quick shift. I am currently using the 3/4 map off the site and the settings in that map but the quick shift doesn't seem to be working correctly. It requires a lot of pressure and even then it doesn't seem to be allowing it to shift. It's more like my foot pressure is forcing the gear change. It's my first experience with a quick shift so it may be me.
Is there any way to check the quick shift to make sure it's working? I have emailed flash tune but being the weekend I know I won't receive a reply. I was hoping someone might be able to help.
If I'm understanding the question right, I think you are expecting the wrong thing. You still need to make the full shift with your foot, it simply allows you to do so without the clutch. If you can shift smoothly with no clutch, then its working. But it shouldn't change the pressure at the foot I don't believe.
Also, if you do not get short in the up shift direction, push the lever all the way down to see if it is a sensor designed for a push (GP shift)....It will also take some force to activate the sensor, so if the bike is not running and has a load on it, it will probably shift the gear with out activating the sensor, but push/pull on it firmly to make the sensor activate.
Hi tad
unable to get pictures at moment,as said have a cordona gp sg with a small control box .Then has 4x wires,yellow and white into a pc type connector(yellow to ecu and white to earth)this is plugged into my flashtune pc type adapter(yellow into ecu plug via the adapters pin)and the white to batt earth.
then there is another black double plug,with green to switched +12v and brown to batt earth.the q/shift seems to be working at the control box as when shift up there is little dot that lights up and set to upshift,all as there website,wiring and operation instructions,but when i have tried it bike running in sixth gear and up shifting it does not seem to be killing rpm as should .also dont think this unit is adjustable for killtime only preload and push or pull shift. any ideas. as when testing continuity of sensor i have open circuit then closed on upshift,and in the flash tune software it is set to no = normally open is this set correct or not.or maybe i should try flashing it with nc = normally closed.
thanks for any help here.
I have dealt with something similar, because I now use a Bazzaz sensor, which is also an active sensor.
First off with an active sensor, you can not use a continuity tester to check for normally open or closed. Secondly, typically systems such as these are transistor based, so they will be normally open. Thirdly, which may be the difficult thing, with it being a strain gauge, it will kill on down and up shifts...which may or may not be an issue.
In the end, I would use NO, and see if it works. otherwise you will probably need to use a 5V source, and look for a few microamps of current when the sensor sees a request for a shift, but you should hold off on this till you just try it first...because it is not trivial to do the 5V test...
Oh wait I also just re-read, your question....The ECU does not kill in 6th. The kill times are controlled in the QS advanced tab in the F-T. Since you cannot go above 6th there is no reason to kill the spark signal. Try from 2nd to 3rd?
hey quick question for a buddy who want me to flash his 09 model. he has Gytr slipons and a pcv but has stock mid pipe.. is it worth still flashing it for him?
he want me to disable the AIS and set the yec throttle maps and set it to tps vs rpm
Not too wise with the stock cat still installed....
I would run the 91+ map, with a PCV slip on map, I would not disable the AIS with the cat because it works together with the cat so it does not get followed out..
With the cat still installed, there is no point in disabling it, less he wants to run a PCV+AT....or even if he wanted to disable the O2 and AIS so he could get a tune, it would still be a waste of money, because the stock cat is a huge restriction especially at high RPM.....
I would tell him to put the money for the PCV+AT or dyno tune toward a y-pipe and use the PeenV2 map for the 3/4 system and be done with it....that would be the best bang for the buck...
Also, it is NOT a "YEC throttle map", but a set of unrestricted YCC-T maps that F-T has put together. F-T has nothing to do with YEC. Heck, I have even edited them in my own files to make them better....
How? I thought FT locked up that map so you couldn't edit it. I personally haven't tried because I thought this. I'll be pissed if you can, and I just thought otherwise :fact :lol
So tad do you think that i have wired the q/shifter correctly,to work with the flashtune software.
Did read about a 5 volt feed from sensor to ecu ,think it was running both wires (yellow and white) to control device.white would normally go to ground.
Would that mean joining both these wires together to make one then into ecu???
Not had a chance to try it again yet,maybe tomorow buzy at work.also instead of going to frame i have gone to earth terminal of battery,with brown and white,do you think this would have any affect.
Cheers for info fella.
I think I really need some pictures to help you more, because I am not really following you as to what is going where. The very first thing to try is not try and make it do a kill while in 6th gear.....try actually riding it and use the QS....with the F-T software set to NO...
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