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FlashTune ECU Flashing Interface

2M views 13K replies 451 participants last post by  Tad158 
#1 ·
I got the type 1 ECU flashing interface from Flashtune today.

Here are the tuneable features for the 07-08 R1:
-Fuel table bias (ECU uses a MAP vs RPM and a TPS vs RPM table for fueling, the bias adjusts how much each table contributes to the final value used to control the injectors.)
-TPS vs RPM Fuel map (per cylinder)
-MAP vs RPM Fuel map (per cylinder)
-TPS vs RPM Ignition map (per gear)
-Engine braking
-YCCT APS vs RPM throttle maps (not directly edittable, can choose between two preset maps: stock and "race")
-Fan temps (stock or 205*F on, 195*F off)
-Immobilizer Operation (Normal or Bypassed)
-Yes, you can import .djm PCIII maps into the software, the software then scales the fuel maps for flashing the ECU just like the PCIII does.

Flashtune does claim to be actively expanding the software to allow for other adjustments as well.

I flashed my ECU with the "race" YCCT map and used the 6th gear ignition map for all gears. My bike does now idle around 1900 RPMs. After looking at the "race" YCCT map closer I believe it may be to blame. Aside from the high idle everything worked great. I went out for a quick ride and was able to power up 2nd gear sit-down wheelies, I tried hard before but it never happened. The bike does feel like it has a little extra pep.

Here are a couple of screenshots of the YCCT maps and the 1st and 6th gear ignition maps.
 

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#5,607 ·
Thats correct.
 
#5,608 ·
Just catching up over the past couple of days. Good stuff here! Thanks for posting the maps and all your testing/tweeks!

I'm going to look at running the one Tad posted up for my 12. So, if I read this correctly, I can change from fuel bias to TPM/RPM. This won't mess up anything on the work done to this map? Also, regarding the engine breaking..Tad..were you serious about it screwing up your work?
 
#5,611 ·
Do not touch the engine breaking sliders, I optimized the engine breaking by hand in the individual maps. If you touch them, it will overwrite all my changes. Anything else in the general settings tab, feel free to change to match how your bike is set up.
 
#5,609 ·
Any one have a good map for 08 Leo Vince Evo II insert removed Slip-on , Y-pipe with Ex-up valve?
 
#5,612 ·
I really can't fine a decent base map of PC site for the leos. I'll shoot him a PC and see what he has.
 
#5,615 ·
Thanks Jamie
 
#5,621 ·
Tad.. A while ago you had a thread asking about y pipes.....

Mjs or m4...

I want to reuse the stock black cover.. Without it melting will that work on the m4...

Or should i get the mjs pipe...

Otherwise i was thinking of getting the m4 pipe and getting the nast square lugs at the top taken off so it looks nicer.
 
#5,622 ·
Mjs or m4...

I want to reuse the stock black cover.. Without it melting will that work on the m4...
I use the stock cover on my M4...Nema problema whatsoever :thumbup
 
#5,623 ·
I subscribed to this thread awhile ago before I bought a Flashtune kit for my 2010 R1. My objective in buying the kit was to smooth out the power delivery of my bike and rid it of the stock US restrictions. The throttle response in low gears was very abrupt as was the engine braking.

The thread is currently at 286 pages. Without having to search through this monstrosity - has this group created a list of favorite (tested) baseline configurations? :yesnod
 
#5,624 ·
:lol....favorite of the thread...:dunno..:crash....Favorite of mine and a few others....:yesnod....

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5497013&postcount=5637

Hot off the presses....There are also other options listed in the FAQ.

Also, come the end of the summer, we will have to go for a ride, as I am moving to the Springfield, VA area...:jump
 
#5,626 ·
Alright I got my tuner today in the mail, woohoo!

I think I'm going to keep things simple at first and just try the 07-08 R1 PumpGas91+ base map to get a feel for things.

The guy I talked to on the phone says the stock R1 fuel map should be fine for normal riding and stock pipes (slip ons are going on this weekend).

A couple questions I have before I flash thing thing for the first time:

1. I watched the video and only see 1 engine breaking slider in it, the version I have has two, one for ETV devel % and another for Fuel/Ign. Now with the bars both at 0%, does this mean the same as stock? And what is the difference between the two? If I slide them to the right, will that give me less engine breaking?

2. Do I need to do anything with fuel map bias?

3. When I selected the 91 octane base map, the quick shifter box was selected, I'm guessing since I don't have a quick shifter that it should be unchecked. Can someone confirm this for me?

4. What does AIS mean? Disable or leave enabled?

Any pointers would be great at this point. Let me know!

Thanks.
 
#5,627 · (Edited)
Alright I got my tuner today in the mail, woohoo!
Congrats!!

I think I'm going to keep things simple at first and just try the 07-08 R1 PumpGas91+ base map to get a feel for things.
Good plan :)

The guy I talked to on the phone says the stock R1 fuel map should be fine for normal riding and stock pipes (slip ons are going on this weekend).
Yep.

1. I watched the video and only see 1 engine breaking slider in it, the version I have has two, one for ETV devel % and another for Fuel/Ign. Now with the bars both at 0%, does this mean the same as stock? And what is the difference between the two? If I slide them to the right, will that give me less engine breaking?
There are some bugs in the flash-tune software. Slide the ETV slider to 50%, then back to 0%, before flashing. The ETV slider fakes a reduction in engine braking by keeping the throttle applied slightly when you go off the throttle. The Fuel/Ign slider adds fuel and ignition advance to reduce the engine braking (the "right" way to do it).

Just flashing the ECU disables fuel injector shut off on deceleration, which reduces the engine braking by about 30% (in my opinion). If you want even less engine braking, slide the fuel/ign to 76% and that'll take out another 20% of the engine braking, giving you a 50% reduction in total. I don't suggest using the ETV slider at all (except to slide to 50% then back to 0% to fix a big in the flash-tune throttle maps).

2. Do I need to do anything with fuel map bias?
Nope, if you set it to TPS vs RPM it'll run the bike in the high load/performance map all the time (and totally disable the O2 sensor), which will hurt your highway fuel economy a bit.

3. When I selected the 91 octane base map, the quick shifter box was selected, I'm guessing since I don't have a quick shifter that it should be unchecked. Can someone confirm this for me?
You can leave the box checked, so if at any point in the future you want to add a quick shifter, you'll be all set up for it. It makes no difference if it's not hooked up ;)

4. What does AIS mean? Disable or leave enabled?
Do NOT disable AIS until you remove the catalytic converter as it can create an unsafe condition where unburnt fuel combusts on the front of the catalytic material and can melt it causing a restriction in exhaust flow. AIS is the Air Injection System, an anti-pollution measure, as well as protection for the catalytic converter, commonly disabled by installing "smog plates" :)

-Jamie M.
 
#5,628 ·
You the man Jamie! Those tips are just what I needed to get started.

So once I get my slip ons this weekend, the only things I should change are a PCV fuel map and enabling AIS? Are there any other changes I need to make?

I threw some baffled stock cans on the other month for a few days and the bike didn't run very well, I'm guessing due to the lack of the stock can back pressure. Will the PCV slip on map fix this? Or is it something else I need to tweak?
 
#5,629 ·
You the man Jamie! Those tips are just what I needed to get started.
Glad I could help :)

So once I get my slip ons this weekend, the only things I should change are a PCV fuel map and enabling AIS? Are there any other changes I need to make?
Do your slip ons remove the catalytic converter? Most don't, they make a "3/4 system" that replaces the catalytic converter, or you can buy an aftermarket Y pipe (will match up to any brand slip ons) and that'll get rid of your cat: http://www.dan-moto.com/DM_US/yamaha-r1-2007-2008-cat-eliminator-pipe-product-664.html

Don't disable AIS until you get a Y pipe, and it might pop and gurgle and backfire like a mofo until you do.

You can load in a PCV slip on map into the flash tune software once you get your pipes, they are pretty rich but the bike likes rich anyway ;)

I threw some baffled stock cans on the other month for a few days and the bike didn't run very well, I'm guessing due to the lack of the stock can back pressure. Will the PCV slip on map fix this? Or is it something else I need to tweak?
A fuel map helps a bit with it, or if you get rid of the cat with a Y pipe then I got some sweet sweet maps for your 08


-Jamie M.
 
#5,637 ·
Ok so I just flashed Tad's tweaked map to my ECU. I took it for a spin around the block to get some gas. Feels like pretty good linear power on my butt dyno in 1st and 2nd gear. I did not get to run in the "fun zone" of 12-14K RPM. For some reason the map idle'd very very low (sub 1200RPM) especially after a few minutes of warming up.

I activated the data logger for the ZAFM and got the following results- overall I feel pretty good about the map and will continue to use it. Better power in midrange and where I was able to run between 5k-12K rpm (it was 5 oclock rush hour out and I didnt want to be a statistic this afternoon)

Overall I'm pretty happy and will log a few good sessions on the ZAFM to map it towards 12.9-13.0 AFR. I remapped with using the idle speed adjustment and manually changed the values to get a 15-1600 RPM idle.

Special thanks to Tad, Oilfield, and Elwin for contributions to make up this map. For those of us that are not tuning "specialist" we surely appreciate the work you guys have done. I'll continue to post my feedback and tweaks as I get them as well.

 
#5,639 ·
Cool! I will give it a spin once it warms up.
 
#5,641 ·
Quick question....

Not sure if this has been discussed already because I haven't read through the whole thread.
I got my ECU flashed by Flashtune at the end of October last year with 350 miles on the bike. I put the bike away in storage the beginning of December with about 900 miles on it.
Fast forward to last week it was about 45 degrees out so I decided to go for a quick ride.
I figured the bike was pretty much broken in by now and decided to get in to the upper RPM's in "A" mode and in 1st gear just to see what it was like.
I noticed that after 6K the throttle seemed to get really "jerky."
At one point I got up to around 10K and just let off the throttle and once it got down to around 6K it seemed like it just hung there for a second or two and then dropped down.
Has anyone else noticed this at all?
I love A mode because of the power, but Standard mode is so much more smoother!!
 
#5,642 ·
Quick question....
If you e-mail flash tune sometime in the next month or so they'll e-mail you the map they used to flash your ECU. Post it online and we can take a look at it and see what they messed up. From the few I've looked at they tend to really mess up the engine braking/throttle maps to do what you describe. They usually only modify A mode, STD and B are stock, that's why they aren't messed up.

The other option is purchase the equipment and re-flash it yourself with one of the awesome maps posted here.

-Jamie M.
 
#5,655 ·
And this one too please. The Air to fuel is very important so please check them. This one has modified injector proportioning. Will be interesting to see what it gives compering to previous.
Ok so what slider settings, fuel bias, and mode settings do you recommend? A mode, Tps vs rpm, etc. I have bazzaz Zafm TC QS, Leo Y pipe, gytr slips, and ais block offs. Gearing is -1 up front.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 
#5,657 ·
So I got to ride the bike this morning, it was wet out so I couldn't go too hard. Everything felt really good. Take offs were much smoother and the throttle response seems much more smoother. The reduced engine breaking is much much nicer for day to day riding.

There were a couple things I had questions about regarding idle and returning to idle.

1. On a stock ECU, the bike has a high idle for a minute or two on cold startup to get the engine warmed up faster, I did not see that happen this morning. Was this setting removed with the flash?

2. When I pull the clutch in after acceleration or am in neutral and blip the throttle, it seems like the engine revs take longer than they used to to come back down to normal idle. Now is this the ETV decel setting? Or something else?

Jamie do you have any insight on this?
 
#5,659 ·
1. On a stock ECU, the bike has a high idle for a minute or two on cold startup to get the engine warmed up faster, I did not see that happen this morning. Was this setting removed with the flash?
Unfortunately with the newer versions of the flash tune software (you probably have 1.5.4.0) they removed this. They also removed full manual control of the actual idle (more of an issue on R6 not R1). I am still using version 1.2.2.0 of flash-tune so I can have a high cold idle (2k rpm) and then a low normal idle (1200rpm).

2. When I pull the clutch in after acceleration or am in neutral and blip the throttle, it seems like the engine revs take longer than they used to to come back down to normal idle. Now is this the ETV decel setting? Or something else?
It is due to the fuel injectors not shutting off at 0 throttle anymore, as well as if you've adjusted the ETV slider to anything other than 0 (or if you're using a custom map someone made, they may have put ETV settings right in the throttle map), then it can cause it a bit of RPM "hang" as well.

A. The engine braking. ETV and fuel/ignition bias. cant seem to figure out a base line. I have read back but from what i read seems conflicted with my setup.
By just flashing the bike you'll disable injector shut off on deceleration, which reduces the engine braking by 30% imo. That's a good place to start. If you want to remove more engine braking slide the fuel/ign engine braking slider to 76%, that'll take out an addition 20% of the engine braking for a 50% total reduction.

B. The fuel map bias check box and options. same as A above i have read things but it seems conflicted given what i have installed on the bike.
You can't use fuel map bias unless you're running the factory O2 sensor (which you're not cause you got autotune). So set the bias to TPS vs RPM which will tell the bike to ignore looking at the factory O2 sensor and to use the high load/performance map 24/7.

If fuel economy is a concern we can set up a fuel economy region in your autotune AFR table so that when cruising it'll lean it out.

-Jamie M.
 
#5,658 ·
Hey guys,

i just got my Flash tuner last week and the weather should be breaking here in jersey soon, i plan on jumping on this whole tuning bandwagon you guys have going.

First off thank you Tad for the FAQ page and everyone else here helping with maps and tunes.

I have been tuning with my bazzaz and autotune quite well and have a pretty good handle on it. I run a 3/4 leo vince system with smog plates and race filter. However with incorporating the Flashtune i'm good with every thing except 2 things.

A. The engine braking. ETV and fuel/ignition bias. cant seem to figure out a base line. I have read back but from what i read seems conflicted with my setup.

B. The fuel map bias check box and options. same as A above i have read things but it seems conflicted given what i have installed on the bike.

I appreciate any help getting started and plan to give back 100% once i get her back on the road full time and able to get some testing going.

Thanks guys!
 
#5,663 ·
HI ALL
GOOD TO SEE THE 07-08 r1 guys,some nice advice coming together keep it .
also i have the cordona gp strain gauge q/shifter,now working sweet as,have to say awsome mod a must for all riders .do these do any harm to the g/box.
looked at my kill times and think they like this.
1st 60ms/2nd 60ms/3rd 65ms/4th 70ms/5th 75ms/6th 80ms.
any other setup to try mine is good but little jerky at times maybe me just being picky
 
#5,667 ·
I got in touch with one guy from Italy who can do YEC flash to standard ECU.

Some Q/A:
Do I need to send you my ECU? YES
Do I need to change motorcycle wiring? NO, just need to do few swap wires into the ecu plugs, we supply details to do that.
Will my speedometer and lights work? YES, all as stock
Will I nee to disconnect O2 sensor? IF you want yes, you can choice trough the YEC software.
Does this ECU actually has all the base maps as original YEC for 2009, and if Yes, then how do I switch between them? Is there functionality for speed limiter, map switching, etc… all the function are there, may need to add some switch, just following the instruction pdf, pitlane, orr quick shift,ecc
Will it control AIS to I would need to block it off? YES, trough the YEC software
How long is the turnaround time? 5-6 days
You will need to disconnect the stock 02 sensor and you need to disconnect the AIS as YEC does not support these ;)
 
#5,668 ·
Tad, I just opened your map in the software and had some questions.

Is the engine braking supposed to be 0 ETV / 0 FI? Or did that not load properly?

YCC-I intake -8k RPM...is that correct for stock stacks?

Fuel Map Bias - If I removed the 02 sensor, I just choose TPS vs RPM, right?
 
#5,669 ·
Is the engine braking supposed to be 0 ETV / 0 FI? Or did that not load properly?
Correct, he's manually tweaked the maps to build in a reduction in engine braking. DO NOT touch the etv slider. Even if you accidentally fondled it, close flash-tune and start over.

Fuel Map Bias - If I removed the 02 sensor, I just choose TPS vs RPM, right?
Correct.

Everyone runs his map with stock stacks so I'd assume the 8k is good to go as well.

-Jamie M.
 
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