Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums banner

FlashTune ECU Flashing Interface

2M views 13K replies 451 participants last post by  Tad158 
#1 ·
I got the type 1 ECU flashing interface from Flashtune today.

Here are the tuneable features for the 07-08 R1:
-Fuel table bias (ECU uses a MAP vs RPM and a TPS vs RPM table for fueling, the bias adjusts how much each table contributes to the final value used to control the injectors.)
-TPS vs RPM Fuel map (per cylinder)
-MAP vs RPM Fuel map (per cylinder)
-TPS vs RPM Ignition map (per gear)
-Engine braking
-YCCT APS vs RPM throttle maps (not directly edittable, can choose between two preset maps: stock and "race")
-Fan temps (stock or 205*F on, 195*F off)
-Immobilizer Operation (Normal or Bypassed)
-Yes, you can import .djm PCIII maps into the software, the software then scales the fuel maps for flashing the ECU just like the PCIII does.

Flashtune does claim to be actively expanding the software to allow for other adjustments as well.

I flashed my ECU with the "race" YCCT map and used the 6th gear ignition map for all gears. My bike does now idle around 1900 RPMs. After looking at the "race" YCCT map closer I believe it may be to blame. Aside from the high idle everything worked great. I went out for a quick ride and was able to power up 2nd gear sit-down wheelies, I tried hard before but it never happened. The bike does feel like it has a little extra pep.

Here are a couple of screenshots of the YCCT maps and the 1st and 6th gear ignition maps.
 

Attachments

See less See more
4
#5,952 ·
So wait..i dont have a ypipe yet so i shouldnt flash? Is there anything i can do to smooth out the throttle for now on a 2011? Not really worried about power gains just a smoother throttle. Everyone said the flash helps out with this alot


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App

You can flash it just use a EU PCV map, and when you apply the map before you flash it just select stock fueling/proportioning. This will overwrite the fueling changes with the ones in the PCV map. I can post one up for you tonight if you can't figure it out...
 
#5,951 ·
I would say that the 3/4 tune is a great starting point, because all the timing and YCC-T tweaks are already there. After that you could use an AT or dyno run to tweak the fueling. If you do that send me the trim file, and we can make a full system version as well. :dunno.

I personally don't see what the difference is. I suppose it could flow a little bit better, but who knows. Since the major restriction of the stock system is the cat, my bet is that it might only be a 5-10% effect...:dunno. I would love to know the answer...
 
#5,955 · (Edited)
Have you ran that map you just posted?

I was taking a look at Oilfields maps you posted up. I noticed 100% throttle the fueling doesn't really change a whole lot in percentage, almost like a copy and paste error. But there is a couple -1 sections.

Other thing is, Speedo corrections are on those maps.
 
#5,957 · (Edited)
Yes, and Soultrain ran it on AT for 12.7. He had a small change in that spot, but not a large change...few percent...aka it is not way off...

Anyway, I applied his changes, and once he rides it one more time on AT, and the cells are all basically 1-2% I will update them again.

The speedo correction is for the stock gauge/gearing. I state that users should change the general settings to their liking, but don't touch the engine breaking sliders. So I expect that they use it at least knowing how to use the general settings described in the FAQ...:dunno
 
#5,958 ·
FT rocks

Hey all,
had a track day at Phillip Island yesterday which was the first real time to expereince my 2012 R1 with FT. It's my 6th day at the Island but first on the new R1. Wow, it was an absolute beast. When you can keep the bike in the mid-range, it's so smotth and tractable. The right wrist feels directly connected to the rear tire. Amazing all round bike which hauls serious ass.

Now, 1 thing i did i would've benefited from qas a quick shifter.
Already having the FT, whats the best was to go about enabling quicksift? I know FT sells one but i'm not sure if there is a cheaper alternative that still works ok? It's only for the occasional trackday.

Thanks
 
#5,961 · (Edited)
Hey all,
had a track day at Phillip Island yesterday which was the first real time to expereince my 2012 R1 with FT. It's my 6th day at the Island but first on the new R1. Wow, it was an absolute beast. When you can keep the bike in the mid-range, it's so smotth and tractable. The right wrist feels directly connected to the rear tire. Amazing all round bike which hauls serious ass.

Now, 1 thing i did i would've benefited from qas a quick shifter.
Already having the FT, whats the best was to go about enabling quicksift? I know FT sells one but i'm not sure if there is a cheaper alternative that still works ok? It's only for the occasional trackday.

Thanks
That is great news,
I'm glad you are liking my map.:cool:
It's had allot of time spent on it.
send me an email and ill make sure you have the latest version (there was one more made after my final version, its yours if you want, it is only a minor tweak but it is better)
 
#5,959 ·
What ECU image were you using?

I picked up a used sensor and wired it up to the ECU.

The FAQ thread has the part numbers for the ECU pin you need to do it.
 
#5,963 · (Edited)
He did indeed and I was waiting on hearing back from him,

Crownan, as we discussed last night via Facebook Messeger.

I have never had this on a 14B apart from one customer who had similar (and other symptoms) and then it went away after he went for a proper blast, could have been dodgy fuel / injectors or something, dunno but it just went away.

I suggested you do the same, and let me know, to which you replied I will get a dyno run done, and I said cool or take it for a proper run but instead you post on a forum making me look bad in terms of the service I have done and the customer service I offer !? :dunno

Help me to help you, try what has been suggested.

Apart from the above the only thing different from the dozens of other bikes that have the same map file as you is the 50% map bias that you told me to set for you, other than that nothing different and no one else has reported the same issues that have not disappeared after a proper run on the bike.

If you PM me, Facebook Messenger me, Phone me once you have done a proper run on it and the problems persist then I would suggest sending it back to me and I will test it on my bike, if the high idle persists/stutter then it must be linked to the 50% bias and I will try a different setting than the one you told me you wanted. Obviously this comes under the "lifetime changes" and "no quibble guarantee" that we offer to our customers.

Best regards.

r1Mike
As Mike has just posted above, we have indeed spoken about it and when I get a chance I will be giving it another blast and getting it on the dyno to look at power curve and AF ratios.

The problem at the moment is the bike is 40 miles/an hour away in a friends garage so I cant just jump on it to test it out. So in the mean time I was just exploring avenues of some user experience as to whether it was a common occurrence or whether it might have been something to do with the cold air temperatures or my own bike etc.

Mike has been great and his customer service is one of the best, my previous posts were purely for research and trouble shooting, nothing more.

I'm sure we'll get to the bottom of it in no time :yesnod

*Edit: Can I also add that these 2 'problems' that I enquired about are really minor, it doesn't effect my enjoyment of the bike! Just tiny things that maybe even the average mortal might not even notice! :sing: :D
 
#5,965 ·
Wooo hooo I finally caught up reading the last month of posts I can't wait for the weather to break to try the new maps I'm currently running "Smooth_and_Strong_PeenV3" from last October. I can't wait to try 2009-OilField-Race-Map-TAD-Tweaked-Timing-and-ETV-v3.ftm and Elwin 2009-R1 Akra2-3
 
#5,971 ·
It is simply a PCV map for slip ons on top of the stock fuel map, plus all the other tweaks I have made to make it nice and smooth.
 
#5,973 ·
So I did a little experiment today.

First I let the bike warm up and took a picture at idle with Oil's tweaked v3 ECU image in the ECU.


Next, I took peen's values for the fueling and timing into Oil's tweaked v3 ECU image and took a picture with the bike at idle.


Finally, I flashed a bone stock ECU image into the ECU, and took a picture at idle.



So here is the question to anyone who cares...Can you see an idle speed difference? I could not see on, or hear one. The exhaust note sounded the same, and when the engine was blipped, it behaved the same coming back down to idle. As far as I can tell, there is code that is not in the ignition or fuel maps that controls the idle. The first two has the load bias set to 50%.

I also, have not been able to replicate the issue some folks have had with a bike that idles unhappily on Oil's tune.
 
#5,974 · (Edited)
Quickshifter timings

At a track day at Phillip Island last weekend I encountered problems with gear shifts being rough and a few false neutrals between 5th and 6th gear.
The gear shifts were really rough and jerky, nothing like the experience I had with the same gear on an R6 or even on this bike a few weeks ago. Only changes have been a new shift rod and linkage (replacing a broken OEM) and flashtune with the same map as before but with slight changes in engine braking.
In the past I've been able to short shift up a gear whilst leaned over in a corner without any problem. These last track days that same process would have bucked me off the bike.

I've just read in the FAQ the section about timings for an 09 model. Are there any recommendations for an 07 model?

What is the general behavior and trend in timing? Should there be a longer ignition cut at higher RPM or shorter cut? The stock map shows increasing cut times for higher RPM. My experience with shifting without clutch with no power shifter is that at high rpm it is a very quick blip of the throttle vs a longer one at lower rpm. This is reverse to the stock quickshifter timings.

Any ideas?

Thanks :)

Edit: Just noticed in the settings posted for the 09 timings that the sensor type is "NC" whereas in my map it is "NO". What should mine be set to? (Reverse shift pattern, with push on the rod to change gears.)
 
#5,975 ·
At a track day at Phillip Island last weekend I encountered problems with gear shifts being rough and a few false neutrals between 5th and 6th gear.
The gear shifts were really rough and jerky, nothing like the experience I had with the same gear on an R6 or even on this bike a few weeks ago. Only changes have been a new shift rod and linkage (replacing a broken OEM) and flashtune with the same map as before but with slight changes in engine braking.
In the past I've been able to short shift up a gear whilst leaned over in a corner without any problem. These last track days that same process would have bucked me off the bike.

I've just read in the FAQ the section about timings for an 09 model. Are there any recommendations for an 07 model?

What is the general behavior and trend in timing? Should there be a longer ignition cut at higher RPM or shorter cut? The stock map shows increasing cut times for higher RPM. My experience with shifting without clutch with no power shifter is that at high rpm it is a very quick blip of the throttle vs a longer one at lower rpm. This is reverse to the stock quickshifter timings.

Any ideas?

Thanks :)
I have the FT QS on my 08 and have only flashed it with the standard settings. I've only road ridden it yet and have had no issues at all - every shift nice and smooth.
The only problem I've had is going from 1st to 2nd when my foot's a bit lazy and it stays in neutral (nice little engine rev!) until I kick it in properly - only happens when I'm cruising and not putting enough input into lever.
As you said you've changed the linkage - I'd be looking to see if it's set at the same length as previous one - you did take a measurement before removing??? :sing:
Hope you get it sorted.
Envious of you riding PI though!
Going to Mallala this month for a ride day :fire can't wait!
 
#5,976 ·
Loki, the nc if for the normally closed sensor I was running at the time I took the screen shot. The setting should be set based on the sensor, and it will only work if that is set properly.

I have only shifted 5-6 on the highway, so no load. I have never been on a track with a long enough straight to get above 4th...you must have been hauling the mail! Needles to day I have not seen this issue.:lol
 
#5,977 ·
I have only shifted 5-6 on the highway, so no load. I have never been on a track with a long enough straight to get above 4th...you must have been hauling the mail! Needles to day I have not seen this issue.:lol
Haha - yes the straight at Phillip Island is pretty long :)
I saw 274km/h on the speedo before backing off, and there were guys going faster and deeper into turn 1!

NC v NO - understood. It's the FlashTune quickshifter and has been working as NO so I guess that's the correct setting. I might put a multimeter on it just to double check and confirm it's working ok.

I've another track day in 2 weeks time so will try some different timings. Unfortunately it's a shorter track so won't be able to test 5th-6th unless I short shift to get there.

Re the rod lengths - yes they were measured and the new one is the same. The shift rod length only affects the pedal position, and I did try lengthening that to bring the pedal higher in case my foot action wasn't positive enough when pushing down for the gear change. It did feel better, but didn't change the rough shift behavior.

Thanks!
 
#5,983 ·
In short, yes. I can add a post to the FAQ, with all the other maps posted by people. I am getting crushed at work lately, and having to work at nights as well. So you will need to forgive me a little bit of time to get it set up.
 
#5,984 ·
Tad..

Right so my m4 y pipe and pcv and blockoff plates arrived.

going to fit the pcv and the y pipe, and ill probably wait a while to do the blockoff plates.

what do you recommend:

1: use your standard map file with your tweaks and having the pcv dyno tuned.

or

2: taking your v3 / pending v4 map and then having the dyno tune?

then if the option is 2:

can i then take the pcv dyno tune map and add it to your ft map and then remove the pcv?

also when istalling the pcv should i install the little black box for the closed loop region? or just keep 50% and keep stock 02?

and i presume i need to disable AIS for the dyno tune?
 
#5,987 ·
Tad..

Right so my m4 y pipe and pcv and blockoff plates arrived.

going to fit the pcv and the y pipe, and ill probably wait a while to do the blockoff plates.

what do you recommend:

1: use your standard map file with your tweaks and having the pcv dyno tuned.

or

2: taking your v3 / pending v4 map and then having the dyno tune?

then if the option is 2:

can i then take the pcv dyno tune map and add it to your ft map and then remove the pcv?
Either method will work just fine. And you can trim the image in the ECU with each method.


also when istalling the pcv should i install the little black box for the closed loop region? or just keep 50% and keep stock 02?

If you are removing the O2 sensor, you should just set the load bias setting in the ECU to TPS vs RPM. You should also use this setting on the dyno for tuning purposes.

If you are using it for the street with the stock O2 sensor, 50% or 75% are good solutions

and i presume i need to disable AIS for the dyno tune?
As for the AIS, if you are installing the block off plates, it does not matter if you disable or enable it, since it is removed and blocked off. If you are waiting, then yes disable it.
 
#5,988 ·
Tad, the v4 map feels a lot better above 5k (a mode) and I did 2 trim runs with the zafm. I will send to you now. Not a whole lot of fuel adjustments but it feels much better for the on/off throttle above the 5K mark using A mode. As for below 5k, it seems like the throttle "chops" and "jerks" from on-throttle to off-throttle back to on-throttle again. I wonder when the engine breaking sliders will be working again to adjust this out?

Anyways it feels much better overall and has great power. A mode does give the "yank off the bars" factor while STD mode seems to be the new "smooth and strong" version. I think I might try to get used to the STD mode until we can somehow get the A mode to be a little smoother with on/off/on throttle transitions. Seems like STD mode would be much more manageable on the track and twisties.
 
#5,998 ·
I made some more small tweaks to A mode, and it made this effect a tick better. I made one more tweak after I got home, and I will test it out tomorrow.

The tune is really nice now. I am happy with it, and will post it up tomorrow, after I test the last tweak I made.
 
#5,989 ·
Yes, the A mode below 5k, is really fighting me. I am still playing with ways to smooth that out. Unfortunatly I am still coming up blank. I think I just need to play with it some more.
 
#5,990 ·
Quickshifter slow to activate

Further to my post regarding Quickshifter timings a couple of days ago, here are results of some testing in the garage this morning.

I loosened the connecting rods on both sides of the quickshifter - nothing was binding there or stopping the switch from working. (Tested using multimeter/continuity tester)

The sensor is "Normally Open" and multimeter shows contacts closing when gear shift lever pressed. However it does take quite a hard push on the shift lever to close the contacts.
With the quickshifter wired to the bike and power on there is 5V on one pin of the connector. The other pin goes to earth. In use when you press the shift lever the voltage drops to zero whilst the shift lever is pressed (ie QS contacts closed).

I started the bike on stands and ran through the gears. Sitting on the bike using normal foot pressure I did not see the voltage drop to zero during gear changes, indicating the quickshifter was not activating. Unless I pressed really hard the QS is doing nothing! In fact by the time I've pressed really hard and activated the QS the bike has already changed gear.

This matches my experience on the track - gear shifting with no QS or clutch or change in throttle will result in very rough gear changes!

I've just called Flash-Tune and all they could suggest is to send it back to them to be checked and repaired/replaced. Unfortunately I have another two track days booked in less than two weeks and I very much doubt it's possible to ship from Australia to US, be checked and return shipped to Australia in that time.

Is there any chance another forum member could run a similar test and let me know the result please? How much foot pressure is required? With the QS removed from the bike I have to push it really hard to close the contacts. How much pressure does yours take? (BTW this is a push type sensor. Some people may have pull type sensors instead.)
What about other brand shift sensors - how much pressure do they take to activate?

Thanks!
 
#5,991 · (Edited)
Loki.....I am not exactly surprised by your test results, as I have done exactly that test, with both DJ and Bazzaz sensors

First off on a stand, even a bike with no QS will shift. You can test this simply by disabling QS in the ECU.

The QS relies on the transmission having load on the trans. So when you are going along, it is basically locked into gear, until load on the gears is revealed. QS ignition kill releases the load on the trans. Also, it requires that you be provide a positive shift input.

So when you are on a stand, and testing for continuity without the engine running, you will typically shift gears, and move the lever until it stop moving. This is true even for the Bazzaz sensor I use.

In other words, what you saw on the stand is completely normal from my point of view.

If you want proof, disable QS in the ECU and try and shift it under acceleration while actually riding the bike. It shouldn't shift until you let off the throttle or pull in the clutch, and it will be a profoundly different experience.
 
#5,992 ·
#5,993 ·
The Bazzaz sensor is also a hall effect sensor.
 
#5,995 ·
Why do you say that?
 
#5,997 ·
So you know that there is a small set screw on the wire that goes into the sensor, and if that loosens up, it can pull the hall effect sensor out of alignment, and cause it to not register a shift? If you fiddle with the position of the sensor up and down along the axis of the sensor slightly, it starts working again. I figured this out because mine started doing this, and I fixed it like that. This issue is repeatable, I made sure of it...it has to do with where the sensor is positioned...
 
#6,002 ·
OK, just a failure mode I found and was able to fix...
 
#6,003 ·
You should only need P/N 403 " Replacement Strain Guage Sensor
If your existing item 400, 401, 402, 405, 406, 407 is damaged. Spare part only!
Incl. 150mm wire and SS2 FM and M connector" to hook it up right?
 
#6,005 ·
My understanding is that it kills in both directions...or at least that is what people have been posting.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top