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FlashTune ECU Flashing Interface

2M views 13K replies 451 participants last post by  Tad158 
#1 ·
I got the type 1 ECU flashing interface from Flashtune today.

Here are the tuneable features for the 07-08 R1:
-Fuel table bias (ECU uses a MAP vs RPM and a TPS vs RPM table for fueling, the bias adjusts how much each table contributes to the final value used to control the injectors.)
-TPS vs RPM Fuel map (per cylinder)
-MAP vs RPM Fuel map (per cylinder)
-TPS vs RPM Ignition map (per gear)
-Engine braking
-YCCT APS vs RPM throttle maps (not directly edittable, can choose between two preset maps: stock and "race")
-Fan temps (stock or 205*F on, 195*F off)
-Immobilizer Operation (Normal or Bypassed)
-Yes, you can import .djm PCIII maps into the software, the software then scales the fuel maps for flashing the ECU just like the PCIII does.

Flashtune does claim to be actively expanding the software to allow for other adjustments as well.

I flashed my ECU with the "race" YCCT map and used the 6th gear ignition map for all gears. My bike does now idle around 1900 RPMs. After looking at the "race" YCCT map closer I believe it may be to blame. Aside from the high idle everything worked great. I went out for a quick ride and was able to power up 2nd gear sit-down wheelies, I tried hard before but it never happened. The bike does feel like it has a little extra pep.

Here are a couple of screenshots of the YCCT maps and the 1st and 6th gear ignition maps.
 

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#9,280 ·
Hi All
I’m in the UK, I just happened to be speaking to the BSB Milwaukee Yamaha team chief mechanic at the motorcycle live show in Birmingham UK.
I have explained to him what performance upgrades I have so far I:E Full arrow exhaust system, max throttle bodies, sprocket change to 16 front 49 rear, Flash tune ECU enhancements, plus plenty of extra bike candy. He went onto explain that the best benefit anyone can do to improve performance is to purchase the latest YEC upper and lower velocity stacks and he etherised that they had to be the latest version, I would know these as they are a blue-green in colour and could be purchased from the YEC race parts website, he had two of the BSB bikes on show one of which was partly dismantled which was really interesting as the majority of the performance gaining parts are outside of the engine, he went on to tell me that if he purchased a standard engine and installed it into the race bike that it would still have a BHP of 186.
The complete race spec bike would loose approx. 30 BHP if he removed the velocity stacks and replaced them with the standard ones.
He also mention that fuelling would have to be re-mapped to suit, what I would like to know is has anyone had these installed and if so what gains were made and is a suitable map available.
 
#9,284 ·
Thanks for the good read kelharsyd!!!! :hellobye

So far, from the data we've collected from this very forum, the Graves version of the velocity stacks yielded about a 5HP gain across the powerband; and that was done on the same bike, same dyno, and on the same day. I totally believe it when the engineer says the majority of the gains are external engine parts :fact Though I do find it very hard to believe approximately (anytime someone gives approximate HP numbers I take that with a grain of salt, or rather a truck load of salt :crash) 30HP could be gained from that upgrade alone.

One thing that we have all learned from extensive research on the crossplane is the airflow from the airbox/airtubes is very restricted, thus the WSBK models have a completely different kit: from the air tubes, plenum, airbox, and velocity stacks. Here is an example of OEM air tubes vs. WSBK airtubes:





WSBK plenum:



Were you able to snap a pic of the new version of YEC stacks? I would love to see them and compare/contrast :yesnod

With more air, requires more fuel... So you know they've done some real mapping jobs on those bikes as well. :fact

Thanks for sharing your experience! Insider information is what keeps this forum thriving!!! :thumbup

I should be able to contribute to this thread as well since I'm working with Chris Gardell and plan on developing some interesting things with the Flash-Tune platform as well...
 
#9,281 ·
I don't think YEC velocity stacks would add 30 BHP, esp to stock engine mate..
 
#9,283 · (Edited)
My background/training is cars.

Cars are designed to run at a lambda of 1.00 at idle/cruise which is 14.7 AFR which is most efficient for combustion.
If a car comes into my workshop not running at a lambda of 1.00 at idle or cruise then something is wrong & I go looking for it.
AFR of 12.5-13 (lambda 0.9) is optimum torque AFR for full load conditions.

The most efficient combustion at idle & cruise is gained by a lambda of 1.00 & that is the reason we have an O2 giving the ECU feedback in closed loop fuelling.
Full load is where you would want lower AFR's & in under this condition the fuelling system goes into open loop (ignores the O2 sensor) & switches to the load maps.

I understand this performance mapping is written specifically with performance in mind rather than efficiency and I accept that, but
motorcycle or not, 14.7 AFR at idle & cruise will not damage your engine.

http://bikearama.com/theory/what-is-the-stoichiometric-ratio-and-lambda/

Sent from my GT-I9100
 
#9,294 ·
I am going to give my opinion on this one.
Stoichiometric combustion is 14.7:1 not what cars run. If cars ran at that in any area other than idle or lean cruise you will burn holes in stuff. You can come close to in a very lean cruise but it will get hot with any load at all. So basically the only place you could use it is coasting down a hill or any place that the engine is pulling full vacuum.
O2 feedback on cars is not a lambda of 1, that is saved for wide band O2’s not narrow band like in cars. That’s why you tune with a wideband and read plugs and not off the cars O2’s. The reason is narrow band O2’s have a horizontal, vertical, horizontal curve so tuning off a stock O2 would not be a good idea.
Now I agree 100% on the 12.5-13 AFR for max torque but that depends on a lot of things, RPM range, heads, cylinder, dynamic Compression, etc. Higher the RPM leaner you can be along with the more timing you can run, but also depends on the above.
I am going to disagree some that a car goes into open loop in power enrichment. Open loop is for warm up period till the O2’s are hot. You can argue both ways, but the car is just not making corrections to particular cells when you are at WOT. Basically the learning cells are not used, but still active.

Now this is the reason for the 14.7 along with not going into what I am going to say full open loop.
Lets say you are cruising along at 14.7 with a minor load on the engine and you hammer it and the O2’s shut off totally. If those cells have not been corrected then you will be running at 14.7 till those cells correct for it and burn the car up. This with the correction of the cells. The fueling is just from what has been programmed not what could be from a correction prior to power enrichment. Shorter term, lean pop.

Now this all goes out the window with VERY EFFICIENT combustion chambers which I am sure non of us have the money to get because if we did we would not be discussing Flashtune for these bikes, we would just buy it.

OK, enough people bugged me, so I stayed up late to get the maps copied into the other files.

Please let me know how the tune runs. Also, please tell me what RPM your bike idles at once warm aka after about 15-20 min of riding. I want it to idle better at about 1300RPM, and not dip down lower than that.
Thanks Tad. I will give it a go also. Should be nice weather around me.
 
#9,286 ·
OK, enough people bugged me, so I stayed up late to get the maps copied into the other files.

Please let me know how the tune runs. Also, please tell me what RPM your bike idles at once warm aka after about 15-20 min of riding. I want it to idle better at about 1300RPM, and not dip down lower than that.
 

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#9,287 · (Edited)
I am impressed by how much smoother the bike is now with that injector cut disabled! I still am amazed by the fact that this keeps getting better....:fact

GoldenEye, I would take some sand paper to the inside of those ram air tubes, as you would want the air to not be turbulent in those tubes.
 
#9,291 ·
Frankly, the fueling in that region got polluted by the AT data I was given, which caused the flat spot in the 5.3.7 version. So I went back to the 5.3.0 version which runs pretty darn good in my bike. If you have better data in that cruising range that you like send it to me and I will take a look. The weather has taken a turn for the worse, so I will be unable to test ride for a while.


The best way to tune that region of the map is on the dyno....Which I have yet to sort out yet....
 
#9,293 ·
Makes sense with at. Basically I took your map, running a more stock fueling map, took away the accelerator pump and changed stack opening. I got a chance to try your new one. Improved 5 to 6k no doubt. Still get some stumbles coasting down hills and rolling back in throttle.I can send you mine if you want to take a look. Seems to run really good on my bike. Oh one more thing. The idle seemed exactly the same as stock on new map. Did you notice difference on yours?
 
#9,295 ·
GOD Dam its good to be back !!!! Happy Thanksgiving Gents!! So my unlucky ass got shipped to BFE to go do some crane shit on wind turbines for a month!! So I got back yesterday and I bumped into my dyno guy last night at a party and we got things set after the holiday to finally do a full costume tune with help from tads latest map on my 09R1 3/4 system at 2000-2300ft !! Be glad to send back the finish image for you guys to play with!
 
#9,296 ·
I will send you a tune with a modified YCCT that you can only use on the dyno, where it will step the throttle to only the PCV throttle values. This way the dyno guy can have a fat region to sit on when he is running the bike. Email me the date(s) you plan to run.

:thumbup, Welcome back to the frey.
 
#9,298 · (Edited)
Rather than copying the same map to all the different maps. I use the gear-map# table to set all the gears to point at the same map.
 
#9,299 · (Edited)
how does the "link changes with" function work when editing throttle maps? also, since my bike engine wise is stock with the exception of a k&n filter would it be safe to use one of the oilfield/tad158/peen maps I found in this thread? otherwise so far I've just been playing with the throttle maps by editing in tad's tweaked a mode and the flash tune 91+ pump gas throttle map to a stock fueling map to see which throttle map I like better and adjusting the engine braking. Am I on the right path?
 
#9,300 ·
Are you using the new software? If so you will only need to edit one map. Also use my throttle maps untouched add the values were determined mathematically. The their maps make it smoother, and changes to the timing makes it have less engine breaking. In the new software you should take advantage of disabling the injector cut, as it also reduces engine breaking and makes throttle transitions much smoother.

My tune is for a bike with a stock motor and a 3/4 system.
 
#9,310 ·
yeah, I think im on the latest software. I downloaded it from flash tune last weekend. All I did was copy and paste your tweaked A-mode into the ft stock ecu map and the injector proportioning from 91+ pump gas map into the stock map. that really seemed to be the only difference between the stock map and 91+ map. I did notice how linear your numbers are, like an old carbureted bike, I like that a lot. Do I set disable injector cut to true or false for the reduced engine braking?

you da man tad!

:bow
 
#9,303 ·
Hey guys I just got the interface a few days ago and I need a tune. Ive got an 09 R1 with slip ons and a cat eliminator pipe. I could've sworn I found a tune somewhere for just those mods but I can't seem to find it now that I have the interface. Does anyone have a tune I could download for just those mods? Thanks in advance!
 
#9,314 ·
I'm not sure how to tell what version it is but I just downloaded it from flashtunes website so I'm sure its the latest. The interface is disconnected. I tried the top two links on the post I was linked too and both times the bike didn't start. I re flashed it with a stock unrestricted tune and it started and it rode fine. That was the first time I rode it unrestricted too but it didn't seem like it really picked up any power. Maybe I missed something but the only difference I noticed was no engine breaking.
 
#9,315 ·
I tried the top two links on the post I was linked too and both times the bike didn't start. I re flashed it with a stock unrestricted tune and it started and it rode fine. That was the first time I rode it unrestricted too but it didn't seem like it really picked up any power. Maybe I missed something but the only difference I noticed was no engine breaking.
What do you mean top two links? The first is a 09-11 US base image and the second is a 12+ US base image. What year bike do you have and do you have a US or EU bike?
 
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