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FlashTune ECU Flashing Interface

2M views 13K replies 451 participants last post by  Tad158 
#1 ·
I got the type 1 ECU flashing interface from Flashtune today.

Here are the tuneable features for the 07-08 R1:
-Fuel table bias (ECU uses a MAP vs RPM and a TPS vs RPM table for fueling, the bias adjusts how much each table contributes to the final value used to control the injectors.)
-TPS vs RPM Fuel map (per cylinder)
-MAP vs RPM Fuel map (per cylinder)
-TPS vs RPM Ignition map (per gear)
-Engine braking
-YCCT APS vs RPM throttle maps (not directly edittable, can choose between two preset maps: stock and "race")
-Fan temps (stock or 205*F on, 195*F off)
-Immobilizer Operation (Normal or Bypassed)
-Yes, you can import .djm PCIII maps into the software, the software then scales the fuel maps for flashing the ECU just like the PCIII does.

Flashtune does claim to be actively expanding the software to allow for other adjustments as well.

I flashed my ECU with the "race" YCCT map and used the 6th gear ignition map for all gears. My bike does now idle around 1900 RPMs. After looking at the "race" YCCT map closer I believe it may be to blame. Aside from the high idle everything worked great. I went out for a quick ride and was able to power up 2nd gear sit-down wheelies, I tried hard before but it never happened. The bike does feel like it has a little extra pep.

Here are a couple of screenshots of the YCCT maps and the 1st and 6th gear ignition maps.
 

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#11,650 ·
ok, so If I use this map:

2008 R1 4C8-8591A-60 (Generic) map

and make the following selections only -
Disable INJ decel cut = TRUE
Disable AIS = TRUE
Disable 02 sensor = TRUE
Disable exup = TRUE
US Harness config = FALSE
ETV use in gear idle = FALSE

then it should fire up and all should be fine?
 
#11,651 ·
Yes
 
#11,652 ·
sorted. ike starts now - immobilizer bypassed. issue now is that I am getting fault codes.

2 prong issue.
when I turn it on 23 appears on the screen. - not sure which fault code this is?
when I try to use diagnostic mode, the bike will not go into diagnostic mode - and as im holding the select+reset buttons when I turn the ignition on (process or entering into diag mode) different code flashed very briefly (64). then is comes up ER-4, until I take my fingers o the buttons, then it just shows 23

so, how do I get rid of fault codes i it wont go into diagnostic mode now?
 
#11,653 ·
edit. looks like this relates to the atmospheric pressure sensor - the one located in the let hand intake.

I notice that i I turn the key on, just 23 shows up. with the key still on, if I unplug the sensor, the dash switches between 22 and 23 every couple seconds.

is this related to the flash? - was fine beforehand!. I assume tis must be due to one o the settings o the flash?
 
#11,655 ·
What did you have to do to get it sorted out?

The atmospheric pressure sensor is the one that is in the plenum
 
#11,659 ·
Just got my flashtune installed yesterday, using Tads latest map. Tad your flash is awesome! However when the bike warms up I notice that in any gear it'll pull itself along at 2k with no throttle input. In first it'll pull at 16mph and 2 it pulled at 13mph uphill!! I have a leovince 3/4 exhaust and the bike has less than 1000 miles. I noticed it has to do with neutral vs in gear. When I let the clutch out, it seems to switch maps and the idle wants to come up to no less than 2k.

Help??
 
#11,667 · (Edited)
What gearing do you have? I have -1/0 and it only tows me at 9mph? You must have funky gearing to be going that fast....Do you also have your hand on the throttle? What are you DIAG mode numbers for TPS and APS when you have no wrist input?

That's built into his map. The anti - stall is set around 2000rpm. It's not a mistake. Just be aware that That's going to happen in all gears as long as clutch is out.
Let's get this straight.. I didn't set anything...it just is what it is. On my bike it is 1900 RPM according to the data logger. The clutch in idle is about 1200 RPM.

Hey so I liked Tads map, but didn't really like the higher idle and the "antistall" that's been described. So I was wondering about this experiment and see what ya'll thought?

I was gonna take the FT 3/4 exhaust and add Tads throttle maps to it. Does this sound ok? I should get about the same throttle response without the higher idle or anti stall correct?

Also what can you do in the tuning software to minimize pop on decel? I have a slight exhaust leak at the y pipe. Will this cause popping?
The throttle curves are just part of the differences between the two images. The timing and fuel changes go a long way to making the bike nice and smooth.

What I would if I were you is back down the timing in the in gear maps in the 0 and 0.6 TPS columns below 3000 RPM, so that is smoothly approaches the values at 1200 RPM.

Just go into the ECU settings (second folder) and set extend warm up to false. This will return it to stock idle.

Would have to know what settings you have. Tad's map exactly as it is shouldn't have much, if any, popping.

The FT 3/4 image is a mess. Sent you a PM.
Does that knock down the anti-stall?

Yep not much in the way of popping here...

Hey another problem, I'm at work and thinking I could use this computer to install a map on the way home, i tried to install the driver and flashtune interface. the driver failed to install so I manually installed the drivers then deleted the usb and plugged it back in. It says the drivers installed. But when I open flashtune it says invalid user email for this device. Anyone experience this issue?
Seems like you entered the wrong email...

You should be able to use the email you bought license with. Otherwise shoot a ticket to FT. They're usually pretty quick with responding.
:iamwithst

The popping your hearing is likely due to one of two things, you haven't disabled AIS in ECU settings or the exhaust leak you mentioned. I ran TAD's maps and had no problems with popping.
It could be that even though the AIS is disabled, it could still be sucking air by the valve....




I tried that, tried restarting the software and clearing the settings. I'm thinking maybe it has to do with the driver wasn't properly installed. I have a ticket into flashtune now. Thanks!



I disabled the ais. it's a slight burble on the verge of popping haha. It's probably the slight exhaust leak.
Burble is different than popping. It is probably nothing...
 
#11,661 ·
Hey so I liked Tads map, but didn't really like the higher idle and the "antistall" that's been described. So I was wondering about this experiment and see what ya'll thought?

I was gonna take the FT 3/4 exhaust and add Tads throttle maps to it. Does this sound ok? I should get about the same throttle response without the higher idle or anti stall correct?

Also what can you do in the tuning software to minimize pop on decel? I have a slight exhaust leak at the y pipe. Will this cause popping?
 
#11,663 ·
Hey another problem, I'm at work and thinking I could use this computer to install a map on the way home, i tried to install the driver and flashtune interface. the driver failed to install so I manually installed the drivers then deleted the usb and plugged it back in. It says the drivers installed. But when I open flashtune it says invalid user email for this device. Anyone experience this issue?
 
#11,669 ·
.....Hmmmm.....Wonder why this is the case....since it still should be using the in gear ignition maps....and this is what seems to drive it in past experience....
 
#11,670 ·
Thanks for the replies. Mines stock, no gearing changes, 800 miles on it.

I'll look into messing with timing. I had a feeling that's what it was because of the radical change in going from neutral to in gear.

The email is not incorrect, I only have one and it works on my home computer but not the work computer. I have an email into FT but haven't heard back. I dk why switching to another computer would cause this much of an issue. I can log into the software but in the software it says the wrong email on my work computer but not on my home computer.

I'll try to fix the exhaust leak.

Thanks for the replies.
 
#11,671 · (Edited)
Just got home, going to try something with the extended idle to see how it reacts...

GOT IT! I think. Still testing. The progressive numbers in the last three columns of the warm up/idle map seem to be causing the higher idle with the clutch out and in gear. I'm basing this on the fact I'm using near stock ignition maps so it can't be blamed on the ignition maps. I tried the FTE stock values and while the idle was noticeably higher, the anti-stall was gone. I then dropped all the numbers to 8 and it yielded the same results. I did notice the idle seemed to take longer to drop this way though. I'm thinking keep the numbers as they are till I hit the idle RPM I want, then keep than number the rest of the way to 900 for the last three columns. It did seem the third to last column was linked to the anti-stall, I'm going to play with it a bit more tonight and if I don't get it I'll continue in the morning. I feel like I'm close though, the numbers dropping seem to cause the issue.
 
#11,673 · (Edited)
Post up a screen shot when you get happy with it and I will try it. If it works on both vintages, I will put it in the next version :fact...:rock:

As for the enrichment maps...total SWAG....but it seems to work well ish....I don't see any huge lean values when I come out of corners at the track....

P.S. I have two days of data to slog through this weekend, and we can try your "cruising" fuel map...
 
#11,674 ·
Well, I'm a bit disappointed. Yesterday with initial testing I managed to remove the anti-stall. This morning it was right back in the mix. So I played with the numbers, a lot, except for adjusting the idle speed, it was still there.

So I switched the extend warm up idle to FALSE, it's 'normal". No jumping anti-stall at all. I did notice a few small things, one, switching extend warm up idle from true to false takes a lot of time, even when it's the only thing you change. This tells me a lot of extra stuff is getting changed between the two settings, part of which is likely the anti-stall values which we seem to have no control over. Two, the last two columns need to be the same side to side. I tried it without this and the bike wouldn't start (I think Tad mentioned this). Three, the stock extended idle map has all 13's in the last three columns, oddly enough this seems to put the idle near the anti-stall so it seems to disappear. Four, setting the values to 5 or 6 makes the anti-stall kick in periodically to keep the bike running.

I'm still going to play with it and see if I can repeat yesterday's test that removed it. Not sure it'll happen though.
 
#11,675 · (Edited)
:(....Well, let us know if you work anything out....I will ask the question to F-T....
 
#11,677 ·
hmmm......your right I just noticed this.....Just edit the first two column headings....to read 0.0, 0.6, 1, 2....and then close the map. The values will look blank....but when you reopen the the map it will be properly updated. Also, it will update all the rest of the maps. Then save it and give it a flash?....I am not near my bike this weekend...or I would try it....
 
#11,678 · (Edited)
I'll give it a go in a little bit.

Flashed it just a moment ago, the anti-kill is still there at 1800 RPM, if you want to call it the anti-kill. It's right when the clutch switch disengages that the RPM's pop up. I seriously think it's something behind the scenes in the warm up/idle map. The idle portion of my ignition maps for all gears is stock, so that takes blaming the ignition maps off the table. Plus the fact the numbers are nearly the same from neutral to first in the idle region on my ignition maps further back this up. I have a feeling there may be an in gear idle that we don't have access to.

On the plus side it seemed like that first little touch on the throttle is smoother with the new ignition TPS values. Before it seemed to jump, now it jumps, but not as much.
 
#11,679 ·
Hmmm.....I wonder if we took the warm up section of the idle map and made it slower if that would fix it. In other words, the clutch out defaults to the wrong column in the map....

I will make that change to my ign map and give it a try this week.
 
#11,681 ·
Except that's a 2008 he's talking about. The 09-14 just has extend warm up idle T/F

I thought about the map looking at the wrong section and saw that row of 13's and changed it to 7's, still did the same thing.

I'll try warming up my bike this morning then setting all the values to 6's or 7's in the map. If it still does it, it's something outside of the map we don't seem to have access to.

It's 100% related to the switch in the clutch and not like the stock anti-stall. The stock anti-stall only adds enough throttle to keep the bike running when it senses it's starting to stall. This also works in neutral or the clutch pulled in. I tested this when I set the extend warm up idle to false and had the stock warm up/idle. I tightened the clutch cable so it took a lot of lever release for the clutch to start to engage. Stock setup, normal anti-stall function. With the extend warm up idle the moment the switch in the clutch went open it jumped to 1800 RPM's. I could get right on that switch point and just barely let the clutch in and out and the idle would jump up and down as the switch went open/closed.

I need to make a small suspension change this morning so I'll work on it then. I really want to figure this out so we know how to adjust it or tell FT to make an option so we can adjust it.
 
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