Hey guys, had a fairly significant search around the net and this forum looking for details on what parts I will need to change out the clutch on my 2001 R1. So far I have worked out that I need the following:
7x
SKU: 341-16321-13-00
PLATE, FRICTION
7x
SKU: 2H7-16325-00-00
PLATE, CLUTCH 2
1x
SKU: 36Y-16334-00-00
SPRING, CLUTCH 2
My clutch is slipping when cold, so I'm assuming its on its way out. I changed the oil (15w-40) and nothing changed. Some people on here talk about increasing the spring pressure going to aftermarket springs. Where exactly would you get these from? I'm from Australia so an online retailer that sells all the parts I need would be great. Is there any other parts that I should change while I'm at it, considering I am ordering internationally.
I figured I might keep my little thread going here.
I was looking through this forum looking for 'how to's' on this subject but there really isn't a lot. I guess the service manual is pretty straightforward but for someone that hasn't tackled anything like this before - it was a bit daunting to begin with. Anyway, I ordered the parts above and installed them in my bike, and all is well. There is no slip when cold or hot and the clutch feels like a new one!
Here's a couple of pics I took along the way:
Clutch cover
Here's the little marks that you need to take a photo off before you take the cover off. Important to note that you have to take the cable out of the holder and rotate the arm toward the back of the bike, as the cover comes off. When the cover releases, this is the point where you take note of where the marks are, as this is where the arm needs to be when reassembling. The arm has a small pinion gear inside, that acts on a rack drive which you can see later.
This part isn't in the manual, but you need to remove the 6 bolts holding the clutch spring in. This is the replacement spring that I purchased (P/N 36Y-16334-00-00).
This bit just slides off once the bolts and spring are removed. Here you can clearly see the little rack gear, that the arm on the cover is attached to that I was talking about earlier.
This is a comparison of my old steel plates and the new ones. Not sure what they are supposed to look like after 40000km but these ones look pretty tired. They were slightly warped also.
There is one last set of plates that I didn't purchase but wish I did. They are held in by a retainer, they didn't look as worn as the other plates but it would have been nice to change them while I was in there.
Hope this helps anyone else thinking about having a go at this, it is much easier than I thought it was going to be...
Funny you should mention the scratches, I think that the flash shows them up a lot worse that they actually appear. When I ran my finger across them, I couldn't feel anything, they just felt smooth to the touch.
Cable needed a little bit of adjustment, but I think that was because it hadn't been adjusted in a long time. It feels spot on now, with a slightly heavier feel.
check out www.ronnies.com. They have microfiche blow ups and you can order stock items there. I would recommend though going with an aftermarket as if you are planning on replacing the whole thing, may as well upgrade. I do believe they ship internationally.
You will also need a clutch basket tool. Looks like a huge "Y". If you have the Clymers manual or like manual, they have it in the tools section. I found a bunch by searching the net for them.
Hey Gonadman2, I'm planning to change the clutch housing and related clutch plates on my 01 R1. I've got a problem at 1st gear, half clutch kills off the engine unless I rev above 4k rpm. There's a lot of vibrations too. What could be at fault? I know its the clutch, but am not sure of which part.
Also, can the boss nut be removed without the Y-Tool? Any way to prevent the whole assembly from turning?
Any reason you're changing the entire housing? No need to take off the boss nut if you're just going to change the plates. Just remove diaphragm spring and off you go. Last plate is held in by a piano wire which is very simple to remove and a bear to put back in. A lot of guys just leave the wire out and have had no problems.
Shark, any chance the housing or clutch plates are warped, based on the engine dying and the shudder/rattle (which is loud btw) at half clutch? The entire riding experience is not a pleasant one because of this clutch problem, so I thought of just changing the entire assembly.
I would just start by changing the plates/spring and take it from there. It will be difficult to diagnose exactly what's wrong without going in there and having a sticky.
I should update this a little now that its been in for a while. I would recommend changing the clutch cable while you're doing the clutch, mine broke about a week after finishing the clutch. Otherwise just check for wear at the point the cable goes into the housing near the handle. That's where mine broke.
Another problem that I have been having, and has only started to show up recently is when the engine is stopped and then started again, the friction point changes. Most of the time its right out near the end of the lever travel, sometimes its nice and modulated like normal. Also, when its at the end of the level travel, and the clutch starts to take up, the friction point starts to move back to the normal position. So I have to let the lever out, then as it starts to take up I pull it in slightly and then release as I feed rev's in. Can be very tricky, and I am yet to work out whats causing it...
I really doubt the housing is warped cause it just holds all the plates in place. I agree with Gonadman, replaced the plates and more than likely, that's all it will need.
interesting thread...my clutch has started to slip when hitting it and at med to high revs, sometimes it will slip when i pin the throttle and sometimes it wont. I recently did the 2nd gear fix this winter and had trouble getting the lever back in the same position to catch the cable, i ended up taking the arm off and moving it towards the front of the bike a couple splines to fit the cable.
Im afraid i will have the same problem after putting in new plates and wonder if having the arm off by a spline or two will cause the clutch to not be fully closed and slip under high load?
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