Is this Overheating? - Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums

00-01 R1 Mechanical Help Mechanical and Critical Issues for the 00-01 R1

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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Is this Overheating?

Hey guy just bought a 00 r1 last night and took it out today and noticed that when sitting at a stop light the temp goes from around 170-200ish is this normal? I'm new to sport bikes so please be easy on me. Lol. Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 06:35 PM
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Pretty normal.


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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 07:10 PM
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Normal... nothing to worry about. All R1 years from 98-16 run around that temp.


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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. Someone told me they start to melt at 220. Is this correct? I didn't notice my fans kick on when it got to that temp. If they are not kicking on is there a way I can make them kick on?
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 07:43 PM
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The problem with bikes which are designed to be water-cooled (requiring radiator) is that the engine is not fancy machined to allow
for greater cooling purely by air pressure surrounding it.. Look closely at a cruiser engine which is air-cooled like my Raider and you
realize how beautiful the machining is on these engines. The design incorporates the ability not only to dissipate heat quicker but
also allow flowing air to cool very rapidly.

all those 'fin' shaped machined bits allow for cooling of the engine. and it works extremely well.
Details like these are why you pay good money for proper power cruisers. Note these fins
are not perfectly smooth either. The surface is rough on the planes, it allows for air to flow
much closer to the surface and build pockets of cooling power, rapid moving air flow as well.



YOu dont have any of this on a sportbike, so you only cool the bike as you've got massive amounts of air hitting the radiator, cooling
the water inside which gets recycled through the engine, hot water out, cool water in. And presto you have a cool engine.

While you are stopped the water is still being circulated but now the fans are actually tossing HOT AIR at your Radiator, cause they're
right next to the engine, which is obviously hot. So yes when you stop if you've been riding it, that thing will get hot damn quick

nothing to worry about, its normal. You can flash your ecu so the fans come on at 190deg instead of 210 which is stock i think.. Flash is
only available on the newer R1s not the original. or you can wire in a switch so you can manually turn your fans on, but you're still blowing hot
air, its not ideal but it helps nonetheless


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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you!
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 08:35 PM
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Thank you!
no worries, and by 'YOU pay good money' as mentioned above, i meant ME! hahaha..

my best friend is a machinist and we were looking at that beauty realizing holly fvck that is some pretty damn impressive work.. i could not resist.

i bought my Raider S 2014 in yamaha BLUE at wholesale price plus ft/pdi (but then its a 700lbs rocket ship with metal tank & fenders)

I dont worry about over-heating, EVER.. no need for a Radiator, added weight and butt-fugly imo


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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 10:22 PM
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Perfectly normal for your fan to turn on at 220ish but it's not right. Best thing you can do for your bike is to buy a 98-99 radiator and install a 190 degree Wells SW518 thermo switch and wire it to your fan relay. You can find both them all day long on eBay. Just make sure the radiator has two holes on it for the temp sender and thermo switch. PM me if you want more details.

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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Sharksawyer View Post
Perfectly normal for your fan to turn on at 220ish but it's not right. Best thing you can do for your bike is to buy a 98-99 radiator and install a 190 degree Wells SW518 thermo switch and wire it to your fan relay. You can find both them all day long on eBay. Just make sure the radiator has two holes on it for the temp sender and thermo switch. PM me if you want more details.

Mark
Why go through all the trouble for a physical solution when there's already a software solution?

OP you can flash your ECU to adjust the temperature that the fans come on. You can have somebody else flash your ECU for $200, or buy an FTECU kit for $380.


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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 10:42 PM
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Why go through all the trouble for a physical solution when there's already a software solution?

OP you can flash your ECU to adjust the temperature that the fans come on. You can have somebody else flash your ECU for $200, or buy an FTECU kit for $380.
The 00-01 is carbed and has no ECU to flash.

Mark
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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 11:06 PM
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Awkward. Looked like a 15+ on my phone.


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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 11:43 PM
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You what else...........it's normal too.


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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 06:09 AM
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your friend said... Melt at 220? i Lol'd
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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 07:22 AM
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Awkward. Looked like a 15+ on my phone.
Gots to admit the 1st gen looks good!

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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys! Very helpful
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post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 02:01 PM
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Yeah man, I'm in Phoenix AZ I flashed mine to turn off at 195 and on at 200... During 120 degrees summer last year I got all the way up to about 250, that was without my flash though and radiator flush... This summer I'd like to see temps less than 230-240 hopefully... You just start cooking your body when its 120 with 250 temps blowing at you lol... When you start moving you should see temps drop below 200... This winter the coolest I saw was about 163 degree temps while moving, when you stop it's completely normal to climb. Don't worry man when I first got it I was freaking out because of the temps... Until you see the hot coolant light start flashing I wouldn't be concerned (I had that happen to me once but engine was turned off and heat soaked)

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post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 02:43 PM
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OP when was the last time you had the cooling system serviced? Bled to eliminate any air pockets that can cause hot spots and overheating? How old is the stuff in there now?
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post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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I just bought it Wednesday night so I haven't had time to do any servicing on it. Ordered all the stuff for oil change today
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post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 08:36 PM
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I'm pretty sure you couldn't flash the fans until 07. I ran a manual switch on mine but rode it with out the switch for 7 years and never had a problem. With the fans on if it went up to 223 they would come on and be down 15-29 degrees F quickly.
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post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No-Lag View Post
your friend said... Melt at 220? i Lol'd
me too.. no kiddin' eh?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclepsycho7 View Post
I'm pretty sure you couldn't flash the fans until 07. I ran a manual switch on mine but rode it with out the switch for 7 years and never had a problem. With the fans on if it went up to 223 they would come on and be down 15-29 degrees F quickly.
sounds about right.. some people dont recommend it but if you're in the right place having them come in earlier helps as the engine itself wont be that hot
yet so they'll actually keep the bike from going hotter than 210ish.. thats a pretty big difference as I've seen others burn right up to near max temp.

if you're in VEgas, thats not good

Quote:
Originally Posted by gkamp View Post
Yeah man, I'm in Phoenix AZ I flashed mine to turn off at 195 and on at 200... During 120 degrees summer last year I got all the way up to about 250, that was without my flash though and radiator flush... This summer I'd like to see temps less than 230-240 hopefully... You just start cooking your body when its 120 with 250 temps blowing at you lol..
exactly what i'm talking about.. we live in Canada so it never gets so damn hot unless you're in the interior but then you're usually riding
spirited not in small towns with traffic. 250 is absurd, that is very near max
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CLEVER WOLF CF, RIZOMA grips, APEX risers, CRG Arrows, GYTR seat, SHOGUN sliders, GBR covers, GYTR db, Watsens, 6000k HID, RACETECH springs, RACETECH G3-LD, OHLINs FPK, CL SBK5/RX3, HEL SS lines, Accossato Radial 19x18,

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