R1 01 Killing Batteries - Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums

00-01 R1 Mechanical Help Mechanical and Critical Issues for the 00-01 R1

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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
My R1 eats me.
 
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R1 01 Killing Batteries

Hey guys, i am past frustrated.

3 Weeks ago my R1 started having problems starting hot (starter would stop turning over and electronics goes off),but now started doing the same at cold start.Ran through the charging system diagnostics and my stator was only giving 6vAC at idle.

Replaced the stator (now giving 19vAC at idle) but battery was still draining when bike was on. Had the rectifier tested to show it only charges up to 11.9v . Replaced the rectifier with a 6-pin one (new pin goes to a fused keyed 12v) which was now charging at 14v @ idle.

Drove the bike 12km, turned it off and same problem occurred. I replaced the battery with a absorbed glass one, charging at 14v @ idle (12.9v with lights) and 15.5v @ 5k (13.4v with lights).

Drove the bike 150km when i noticed a bad smell following me. This morning i tried to start the bike and heard a pop. Inspected the battery which is now swollen to almost twice its size.

Any ideas?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 02:26 AM
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What make and model is the reg/rec? 15.5 V is too high.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 02:45 AM Thread Starter
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The rectifier model number is :SH650GA
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 03:56 AM
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What make and model is the reg/rec? 15.5 V is too high.

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Originally Posted by Renier Swart View Post
The rectifier model number is :SH650GA
That voltage is way to high. Definitely something wrong with the new reg/rec that you put in.The smell probably smelled like a rotten egg right? At 15.5 volts the individual cell voltage is approximately 2.58 (way high). The industry standard for an AGM battery that typically has an electrolyte solution of 1.300 specific gravity floats charges at 2.25 volts per cell (13.50 at terminal ends) and is equalize charged at 2.38 volts per cell (14.28 at terminal ends) which is when the battery starts to gas. When the battery is over charged and gets hot that's when you get the rotten egg smell. Because it's a valve regulated lead acid AGM battery the valves normally open at 3-7psi but when over heated they can get melted shut which will eventually cause the popping noise you heard. To make a long story short, lol, change the reg/rec again and be sure it's correct. You may want to clean and neutralize the battery compartment also, there is probably some acid spray in there.


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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 09:43 AM
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Is it a genuine Shindengen or a Chinese copy?

There is definitely a fault. The voltage should be constant above idle with or without the lights on.

I'd suggest a Shindengen FH020AA, which is a MOSFET reg/rec as fitted to the crossplane R1. It should be plug and play if you have the 3pin plugs, but make sure it is genuine and not a fake. Try Motoelectrix or Roadster Cycle on eBay or the web.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 02:50 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys

Can you guys please provide a model number for the MOSET rectifier or an place where i could possibly buy it online within South Africa?

How could i test the rectifier prior to buying to make sure it is working as intended?

As far as my knowledge, the sense wire regulates the output of the rectifier, could i in turn modify the sense wire (put more resistance on it to lower the voltage) to trick the rectifier to lower the charge being sent out?
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 03:20 AM
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Thanks guys

Can you guys please provide a model number for the MOSET rectifier or an place where i could possibly buy it online within South Africa?

How could i test the rectifier prior to buying to make sure it is working as intended?

As far as my knowledge, the sense wire regulates the output of the rectifier, could i in turn modify the sense wire (put more resistance on it to lower the voltage) to trick the rectifier to lower the charge being sent out?
You probably could do something like that but it may take a few tries with different resistors and you may end up cooking batteries and other parts while trying it. I'd just get the correct part if I were you.


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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 07:35 AM
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Get an OEM R/R my friend, that's the only way to go!
Had this problem happened to me, stock R/R went out, burning out batteries and else, thought I'd save $80 by buying Chinese R/R for $20 instead of the $100 OEM one and it worked for couple weeks until the problem started again.
Returned the Chinese crap, bought the OEM one for $100 and never had a problem since then.

I am a huge Chinese products fan when it comes to accessories and look but I stick to OEM when it comes to mechanic repairs!!


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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Renier Swart View Post
Thanks guys

Can you guys please provide a model number for the MOSET rectifier or an place where i could possibly buy it online within South Africa?

How could i test the rectifier prior to buying to make sure it is working as intended?

As far as my knowledge, the sense wire regulates the output of the rectifier, could i in turn modify the sense wire (put more resistance on it to lower the voltage) to trick the rectifier to lower the charge being sent out?
You could buy a reg/rec for a 2009-14 R1, which is the FH 020AA. If you buy a genuine Shindengen, then you can be 99.9% certain that it will work!

There is no sense wire.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Yamaha does not have the OEM anymore. They told me and I quote "It is too old, as we don't even work on them anymore. Replacement parts will take 2-4 Months"

I do not know how to import goods to SA. Anybody else done it before?

I heard the MOSET rectifier is way better in handling heat than the OEM ones. Does anybody know the part number of the MOSET?

Thanks guys for the advice
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 03:11 PM
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Read the post above. He just told you the factory one to buy off a newer bike that will work.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 07:55 PM
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The FH020AA is MOSFET. That's why it was recommended.

There is no end of info online about upgrading the reg/rec, as many older bikes have charging system problems.

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 02:36 AM
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I think maybe it's just your dealer . I just ordered an Oem regulator from my local shop ( paid roughly $130) and let me tell you , Oem is worth every penny . I bought a 60 dollar regulator from china and had a similar problem. As for overheating the regulator I have seen some guys running Lighted electric fans with longer bolts right Infront of the regulator to keep it cool . I plan on doing something similar to mine since it gets really hot and humid here in Japan 😎.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 02:48 AM
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Similar to this . I'm sure others have seen it before
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmeck View Post
I think maybe it's just your dealer . I just ordered an Oem regulator from my local shop ( paid roughly $130) and let me tell you , Oem is worth every penny . I bought a 60 dollar regulator from china and had a similar problem. As for overheating the regulator I have seen some guys running Lighted electric fans with longer bolts right Infront of the regulator to keep it cool . I plan on doing something similar to mine since it gets really hot and humid here in Japan 😎.
The MOSFET reg/rec on my 99 barely gets warm.

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