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02-03 R1 Mechanical Help Mechanical and Critical Issues for the 02-03 R1

 
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post #20461 of 20613 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 07:00 PM
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I kno. Too bad I don't have at least a bit more money to play around with the bike. I might be able to post questions or findings

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post #20462 of 20613 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 07:20 PM
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I kno. Too bad I don't have at least a bit more money to play around with the bike. I might be able to post questions or findings
Same thing stops me. No money.

I got a 2011 S1000RR but all I've done is a Graves full system, a PC-V and some Apex bars.

I'd love to tear it all apart and get more power but time and money stop me. That and I promised myself that I wouldn't ruin the warranty on this one until it's paid for.

Honestly the thing's fast as hell already. It has WAY more bottom end than an R1 and I've only hit the rev limiter 1 time.
I can cruise around at 4000 rpms and just roll on and it takes off.

My 05R1 I'd have to be at 6 or 7 grand to say the same and I hit the rev limiter all the time.


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I just want to stroke it all the time. (For you BSR )
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post #20463 of 20613 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by BSR-1 View Post
Probably possible but the magnets are what's generating the juice. I suspect that reducing the magnets will reduce the juice.
Also just a guess.
Yes smaller magnets= less juice but it also equals more bhp as this is acting like a brake on the engine. The standard rotor is oversized for me and I also like the idea of keeping some of the weight in the std. one. Not that it will make too much of a difference I think. The shorter magnets will though.
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post #20464 of 20613 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 07:48 AM
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Yes smaller magnets= less juice but it also equals more bhp as this is acting like a brake on the engine. The standard rotor is oversized for me and I also like the idea of keeping some of the weight in the std. one. Not that it will make too much of a difference I think. The shorter magnets will though.
In that case, I'd say try it, you have the YEC as a back up if it doesn't work.
Please post up the progress pics and results here!

Will you put it on a lathe to make sure that it's centrally balanced?

Also can you post pics of the two of them side by side so we can see the difference?


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post #20465 of 20613 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 09:32 AM
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post #20466 of 20613 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by BSR-1 View Post
Same thing stops me. No money.

I got a 2011 S1000RR but all I've done is a Graves full system, a PC-V and some Apex bars.

I'd love to tear it all apart and get more power but time and money stop me. That and I promised myself that I wouldn't ruin the warranty on this one until it's paid for.

Honestly the thing's fast as hell already. It has WAY more bottom end than an R1 and I've only hit the rev limiter 1 time.
I can cruise around at 4000 rpms and just roll on and it takes off.

My 05R1 I'd have to be at 6 or 7 grand to say the same and I hit the rev limiter all the time.
is the BMW that much different / a lift over the R1 ? If anything ever happenned to my 99 that would be the bike I'd get -the HP4 edition is what I would shoot for

Tuned by Bugaj

"In pursuit of more speed with the same power"


my "back from the dead" thread:
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/107-r1-forum-bike-month/263176-my-99-r1-back-dead.html


99 R1 parts for sale :
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/151-bike-parts-sale/307491-fs-98-99-r1-aftermarket-parts.html
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post #20467 of 20613 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 11:44 AM
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is the BMW that much different / a lift over the R1 ? If anything ever happenned to my 99 that would be the bike I'd get -the HP4 edition is what I would shoot for
I hate to sound like I'm anti R1 (I'm not) but it's a night and day difference.
My 05 had a LOT of work done to it (167HP) ported, milled, degreed cams, 3 angle valve job, ported throttle bodies, custom airbox/filter, PC111, Akro Evo, custom fuel map, -1+2 520 kit......It was the most powerful 04-06 ever tested on the dyno at Costa Mesa's Mach1.

All I've done (on the S1000) is the graves system and PC-V with the "off the shelf" map and this is the fastest bike I've ever ridden and has WAY more bottom end power and top end.

NIGHT and DAY!


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I just want to stroke it all the time. (For you BSR )
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post #20468 of 20613 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSR-1 View Post
I hate to sound like I'm anti R1 (I'm not) but it's a night and day difference.
My 05 had a LOT of work done to it (167HP) ported, milled, degreed cams, 3 angle valve job, ported throttle bodies, custom airbox/filter, PC111, Akro Evo, custom fuel map, -1+2 520 kit......It was the most powerful 04-06 ever tested on the dyno at Costa Mesa's Mach1.

All I've done (on the S1000) is the graves system and PC-V with the "off the shelf" map and this is the fastest bike I've ever ridden and has WAY more bottom end power and top end.

NIGHT and DAY!
how is the handling and the suspension ? what about the comfort after miles in the seat ?

Tuned by Bugaj

"In pursuit of more speed with the same power"


my "back from the dead" thread:
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263176


99 R1 parts for sale :
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=307491
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post #20469 of 20613 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 12:31 PM
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how is the handling and the suspension ? what about the comfort after miles in the seat ?
Handling is good but the rear spring is too hard for me (170 without gear) and the front forks are too soft.
I crank the preload all the way up (in the front) and the ride is very harsh but it still bottoms out on every ride.

I've just come up with the Idea of reducing preload but adding more fork oil to help prevent bottoming?? we'll see if it helps when I get around to it.

Dave Moss will rebuild the forks with stiffer springs for 500.00 but right now my budget is TIGHT!


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post #20470 of 20613 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 12:48 PM
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Sounds like somebody needs to send you another head to port then

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post #20471 of 20613 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 01:00 PM
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Sounds like somebody needs to send you another head to port then
Ya, I wish.
I really am good at it and reasonably priced but a lot of people want flow bench #'s and other crap that i don't have access to.

Did I tell you about my DR 650? I made a 49% power increase on that and it turned out to be the most powerful DR in the world.
Did that transfer into more porting work? no.

Honestly, if I had money I'd send my stuff to Tim.
I'm no where near Tim's abilities but few people are (none that i know of).

Short of Tim and Mark, I'm the best at porting that I know of!


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post #20472 of 20613 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 02:27 PM
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Kinda strange how we're the only ones left around here...
This used to be THE spot for any real info.
I had no idea, I had rarely time in the last 18 months to keep up with much, I rarely posted anywhere as a result. I am only just after finding out some of the stuff after digging about abit, what a great pity

I am going to start reading things again from where I had last read every page (p326)its gonna be a lot of enjoyable reading, with all the amazing projects people achieved helped each other on.
I really do hope to see this thread burst to life again, its mega! This thread was what was directly responsable for building my 08 r1 sbk to what it is today, I am very grateful for all the help I got from you guys when I knew little.
Between Mark, Tim and Bsr, and others you thought me how to port my first bike, and my knowledge has developed from there, Thanks guys.
The rotor project I will continue on the 08 thread. I believe its possible to machine now after some research but difficult, with special gear needed. I will probably need to waste a lot of rotors to find the right sppeed /feed rate, but I think possible, failing that I am thinking of spark errosion. I also have a few other ideas but they are more expensive than plan A.
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post #20473 of 20613 (permalink) Old 12-01-2012, 10:03 AM
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Re reading this thread from the begining of time . Its taken a week of evenings to make it to January 2008 . Going to do some engine work this winter . Incredibly good info in this thread . Got notebook out writing everything down .
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post #20474 of 20613 (permalink) Old 12-01-2012, 03:57 PM
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Re reading this thread from the begining of time . Its taken a week of evenings to make it to January 2008 . Going to do some engine work this winter . Incredibly good info in this thread . Got notebook out writing everything down .
Good Idea about the notebook.
There is a LOT of good info in here but there's a lot of stuff in between.
Thank You for reading it through! This thread deserves not to die!

P.S. I'm obviously not the smartest of the bunch in here but if I can ever help, shoot me a PM.


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post #20475 of 20613 (permalink) Old 12-06-2012, 06:50 AM
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Got a set of FCR Flatslides on the way and an engine stand made.
Going to toss the stock airbox.

Also welded up a bracket to fit engine stand. Holds motor by back motor mounts.
Got two 01 R6 engines to play with
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post #20476 of 20613 (permalink) Old 12-06-2012, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 4yamahas View Post
Got a set of FCR Flatslides on the way and an engine stand made.
Going to toss the stock airbox.

Also welded up a bracket to fit engine stand. Holds motor by back motor mounts.
Got two 01 R6 engines to play with
Sounds like a lot of fun times ahead!


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post #20477 of 20613 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 07:24 AM
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Decking block with Nikasil liners

Need some advice from those with experience -

Just received a replated '00 block from Millenium. While the bores look great, are straight and finished honed very nicely the gasket surface on the block does'nt look great in that it has been chemically etched (roughened) from the plating process (see pic). I want to get the block decked not only to get back a proper sealing surface but to get the P to H clearance I want (need .010" taken off).

Has anyone had any issues decking/surfacing with the Nikasil plating - Millenium does'nt recommend it as they say the plating can chip but I think with a good radius/chamfering around the top of the bore there should'nt be any problems. They recommended grinding instead but grinding alumimum presents a whole mess of it's own problems (namely keeping the grinding stone from clogging) and I'm not even going to go there.

Thanks

Rob
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post #20478 of 20613 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 04:31 PM
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I think with a good radius/chamfering around the top of the bore there should'nt be any problems.

Rob
I think you're right. If you can chamfer it first, (carefully) and then mill.
I have seen chipped/cracked bores (as I'm sure you have if you've read the entire thread) but it wasn't caused by milling.
Also, the surface, while not shiny, looks pretty good to me. Are you sure it won't seal properly?
I've always used gaskets to achieve the piston to head (squish) that I needed.


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post #20479 of 20613 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by BSR-1 View Post
I think you're right. If you can chamfer it first, (carefully) and then mill.
I have seen chipped/cracked bores (as I'm sure you have if you've read the entire thread) but it wasn't caused by milling.
Also, the surface, while not shiny, looks pretty good to me. Are you sure it won't seal properly?
I've always used gaskets to achieve the piston to head (squish) that I needed.
A head gasket won't seal on an etched surface can it? What are gaskets made from? Copper? Copper won't seal on etched, it's supposed to be smooth

Some are multi layer steel, other are graphite composite. I don't know what the r1's are, I've never changed a head gasket on a bike. I know my cars were steel composites and needed a smooth surface



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post #20480 of 20613 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BSR-1 View Post
I think you're right. If you can chamfer it first, (carefully) and then mill.
I have seen chipped/cracked bores (as I'm sure you have if you've read the entire thread) but it wasn't caused by milling.
Also, the surface, while not shiny, looks pretty good to me. Are you sure it won't seal properly?
I've always used gaskets to achieve the piston to head (squish) that I needed.
I talked to Cometic gasket today and they said if you drag your fingernail across it and it feels rough then you run the risk of it leaking.

This all started when Repoman posted he had an oil leak after engine reassembly with a Millenium plated block. After comparing pictures of his block against mine they look very close in terms of finish (dull grey instead of somewhat shiny).

Decking the block will ensure a nice smooth mating surface and I can adjust for P to H numbers and use a standard gasket instead of the special order .010" gasket I'm using now (single leaf spring steel gasket with Viton coating).

The biggest concern I have of course is damaging the Nikasil during the milling process but if the top of the bore is relieved enough as you pointed out there should'nt be any problems.

'00 R1,06 Wheels/Brakes,'03 suspension, '03 airbox, Degree'd stock cams, headwork, lightened and balanced crank, '03 pistons, Nology Hotwires, powdercoated frame/rearsets, Dussault undertail,Tapeworks/SRSignDesign graphics, 3rd gear wheelies and a whole lotta love.
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