06 R1 Throttle Sync Help - Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums

04-06 R1 Mechanical Help Mechanical and Critical Issues for the 04-06 R1

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post #1 of 59 (permalink) Old 08-07-2016, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
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06 R1 Throttle Sync Help

Hey guys, first post but not new to searching the forum. Anyways, I have an 06 Yamaha R1 Raven. Toce exhaust (dont hate) with fresh plugs, oil, coolant, and air filter. I start up the bike to do a throttle sync, and i get two things... A one time nasty backfire through the air filter box and occasional 'pop' from the exhaust. The second being that only cylinder #3 is producing the vacuum pulse. I am using a two hose Twinmax gauge. I hook to the static cylinder #3 and only #4 will sync. 1 and 2 are not giving any reading on the gauge no matter how much adjusting to the screw I do. Ive tried looping 2 and 4 back together and syncing 1 and 3 if vacuum to atmosphere was an issue. Still no results. Any help would get my baby back to the street after a year of downtime. thanks.
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post #2 of 59 (permalink) Old 08-07-2016, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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Is there supposed to be a vacuum pulse on the other three cylinders? (#1,#2, #4)
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post #3 of 59 (permalink) Old 08-07-2016, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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Cmon boys, dont punish me for not making my own manometer. lol If I could just get a little info from someone who has performed this before I'd be grateful.
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post #4 of 59 (permalink) Old 08-07-2016, 07:07 PM
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Hope you didn't touch number 3 cylinder, that what your adjusting too.
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post #5 of 59 (permalink) Old 08-08-2016, 02:34 AM Thread Starter
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Nope, couldn't even if I wanted too. Hardest one to get too. And, I followed the instructions that quite a few have posted on here already.
I read on other models you turn out a 1/4 turn, and then tighten down on cylinder #3. Couldn't attempt this though, couldn't get too it. lol Apparently that was a silent blessing.
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post #6 of 59 (permalink) Old 08-08-2016, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Say guy did turn the #3 cylinder, Halo_2.... Where do you begin after that?
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post #7 of 59 (permalink) Old 08-09-2016, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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Update.
Tightened every screw down and then opened 1 1/2 times. Then attempt to sync. Noticed I'm running so rich my eyes burnt and fuel began to sputter from hole in slip ons lol
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post #8 of 59 (permalink) Old 08-09-2016, 04:02 PM
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post #9 of 59 (permalink) Old 08-09-2016, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the response.
I watched, and he mentioned that the master carb is non-adjustable. Should I not worry about where the screw is set on the R1 on cylinder #3?
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post #10 of 59 (permalink) Old 08-13-2016, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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Got the Motion Pro today. Went and got 4 1/4 inch coupler barbs. Calibrated the Sync Pro, warmed the engine, and off i began. I chased the gauge around relative to the #3 cylinder. Got the backfiring to go away a tad. Couldn't completely sync though, but i believe it was due to how far out i had gotten them tinkering about. At this point, I'm cooling the engine down to go at again. I had 2,3, and 4 all synced perfectly, but 1 was still low and appeared to have non reaction on the gauge no matter how much I adjusted the screw. Hit #4 as it was getting too hot to continue as some food for thought, and gave tremendous hope as it affected cylinders #1 and #2. So, I will hit it again in a few. Thank you 2wheelferrum, right tool for the right job.

And for anyone curious, I did tinker with #3 on the Sync Pro and it would not show any adjustments. I therefore, feel it is fixed no matter the position of the screw. Could be wrong though.
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post #11 of 59 (permalink) Old 08-14-2016, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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I couldn't get cylinder #1 to balance to 2,3,&4. Got a vacuum gauge on #3. Turned all the way in is about 6.3 inHG. Book says 6.5. Still can't get number one to match though. It ends up being completely locked tight, needing more vacuum. It's an 06, R1. 22,000 miles. I'm at a loss, and have no idea where to tackle next. I have worked with the Sync Pro all day twisting and turning trying to manipulate the vacuum levels. It idles decent and sounds strong with the adjustments I achieved, but I want perfect.
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post #12 of 59 (permalink) Old 08-29-2016, 12:57 PM
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Start by doing a compression check.

Then check valve clearance.
If any need to be re-shimmed, perform another carb sync.

Enjoy the journey!

2005 R1 Yamaha
2003 BMW K1200LT
1961 Harley Pan/Shovel
1974 CB750 Honda K4
1974 Kawasaki H2
1975 CR125 Elsinore
Honda mini trail's for the kid's
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post #13 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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CR125, thanks for the advice. I'm going to be stubborn on this only because the manual says check the valves at 26,000. I am still at 22,000. I have been on vacation for the last few weeks, but I stumbled upon a vacuum leak on cylinder #1. This all seems to resemble the reason I couldn't sync #1. As of now I am searching for how to remove the entire air box. Two birds, one stone as I ordered block off plates before vacation. Thanks for all the replies. I will post my findings and outcome as I go. Love this forum!
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post #14 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 09:53 AM
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My guess is someone's been in there before.
Takes a little time and effort to seat the throttle body assembly back in place after a removal.
Highly doubtful a backfire would blow that boot off.
Those boots don't "slip" off.

Intake leak = lean running cylinder = possible internal damage (burnt valves, etc.)
Let's hope it's not been run like that for any amount of time and damage hasn't occurred.
A compression check would help diagnose.
Avoid chasing your tail and eliminate low compression and/or a significant compression variance.

The manual's suggested 26000 mile valve check assumes the engine is running correctly and has been properly maintained. No harm in checking early.

Bought my 05 Raven with 16k on it. It ran fine (slight backfire during deceleration due to AIS system), and I had receipts from original owners past maintenance.
For my own satisfaction, I performed my own preventative maintenance a couple weeks after purchase.
Oil, filters, plugs, TB sync, AIS block off (check my DIY if interested) and valve clearance check.
Found three valves that were slightly out of tolerance. I've enjoyed a perfect running engine for the past couple seasons now.

Obviously your choice on how you want to proceed.

Enjoy the journey!

2005 R1 Yamaha
2003 BMW K1200LT
1961 Harley Pan/Shovel
1974 CB750 Honda K4
1974 Kawasaki H2
1975 CR125 Elsinore
Honda mini trail's for the kid's
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post #15 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I've considered what you have said and you are surely making plenty of sense. I will follow your advice and buy me a compression tester and see what I find. Valve adjustment too. No reason to not finish the job right. Might as well do the dielectric grease all about as well.
I managed to back off both clamps and re-seat the boot. Went easy, but I removed the tank and airbox right from the start.
Next I will throw on the block off plates and remove the AIS system from the top. Need to check the coils as well.
Little history on the bike is I bought it with 18k, rode it to 22k. Put it down for 20k service. It ran fantastic up until one day I was doing my routine weekly start up and it had a misfire. Figured a plug, but suspect a coil could be bad. So much work to do.... hahaha
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post #16 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s20121221e View Post
........ and buy me a compression tester and see what I find.
If your not a tool junky (like me)...

Auto Zone, Advance Auto, O'Reilly's, etc all have some sort of "loan a tool" program.
Guessing this tool is on their list and might be an option for those that don't want to buy one.

Best O' luck

Ken

Enjoy the journey!

2005 R1 Yamaha
2003 BMW K1200LT
1961 Harley Pan/Shovel
1974 CB750 Honda K4
1974 Kawasaki H2
1975 CR125 Elsinore
Honda mini trail's for the kid's
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post #17 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 07:47 AM Thread Starter
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Yes sir, I am the exact same way, but much smaller collection I'm sure. I will buy one for future work to the bike and my many other vehicles. I appreciate the idea though. Funds will be tight for a period of time..... So I may end up using your idea for the time being, who knows.. haha
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post #18 of 59 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 04:30 AM Thread Starter
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So, been a long time I know...

So at this point I have removed the valve cover and checked valves. A few are quite far from specs. The most concerning part is that cylinder #1, intake valve #1 has eaten up the lifter bucket. I can see spring beneath it/ through it.

Any thoughts on why this would happen? Should I just remove the engine and the head to rebuild that valve?
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post #19 of 59 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 02:13 PM
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After reading about the damage you've described, it's obvious to me, that head needs to come off.
Without seeing the damage, anyone here is going to be speculating on the cause..

Have that head rebuilt (to check ALL valves, buckets, shims, seats, springs, etc) repair/replace as necessary.
Check your cams visually for obvious wear on lobes,etc., and also with mic to be in tolerance.
Check the cam chain for stretch.

Machine work can be spendy but when it's done, you know everything is within tolerance (if it's done by a pro)

Or... roll the dice and find a head/cam combo on eBay.
Leak check a used one at a minimum before installing it.
Best o luck.

Ken

Enjoy the journey!

2005 R1 Yamaha
2003 BMW K1200LT
1961 Harley Pan/Shovel
1974 CB750 Honda K4
1974 Kawasaki H2
1975 CR125 Elsinore
Honda mini trail's for the kid's
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post #20 of 59 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 03:08 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Ken. I basically assumed that to be the case, just needed some reassurance.

The next thing to do is search removing the engine. 😅😅
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