black rear sets and passenger pegs? - Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums
07-08 R1 Mechanical Help Mechanical and Critical Issues for the 07-08 R1

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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-15-2012, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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black rear sets and passenger pegs?

i have a 2008 R1 Raven. I am looking to finish blacking-out the bike, and just replaced the stock levers with black ones. Now I am looking to make the rear sets and passenger pegs black, but prices on replacements are pretty steep. Has anyone powder-coated or painted the rear sets and pegs with any luck? any other ideas?
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-15-2012, 11:40 AM
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many people have powdercoated them. price depends on shops in the area. i ordered an eastwood PC kit and did my own. came out great and still look good after a year



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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-15-2012, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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no issues with boots/shoes rubbing off the paint? where did you get your kit from?
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-15-2012, 11:50 AM
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no issues with boots/shoes rubbing off the paint? where did you get your kit from?
The powder coat is much thicker and its baked on so its pretty much there permanately. the only part that has rubbed off on mine if the very tip of the "bumps" on the peg has rubbed off...and only on maybe 6 of those bumps. not noticable at all unless your staring at it. had some old heat shields i PC'd also and never had an issue with it burning off or discoloring either.



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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-15-2012, 08:00 PM
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I got mine done on my Black/gold 09 r1 in Satin black. It's in between Matte and Gloss.

Couldn't justify spending $300+ on a set of decent rearsets.
Got my cousin to sandblast everything after I dismantled them.

Powdercoating cost $80 AUD. I'm from Down under
Turned out quite nice and thick enough that It won't rub off



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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-16-2012, 07:11 AM
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I began painting mine. I used Rustoleum metal paint 6 coats. Worked very well for about a year. No scuffs or scraping off. I then decided to pop the little extra and PC mine. Was about $35 for the set disassembled.

PC'd




I did the passenger ones also for about $15 more... but I dont run Pass pegs anymore..

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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-17-2012, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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that pic looks pretty good. so you had them sandblasted then powdercoated? did you find that Satin Black matches the best?
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-17-2012, 08:21 AM
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The powder coat is much thicker and its baked on so its pretty much there permanately. the only part that has rubbed off on mine if the very tip of the "bumps" on the peg has rubbed off...and only on maybe 6 of those bumps. not noticable at all unless your staring at it. had some old heat shields i PC'd also and never had an issue with it burning off or discoloring either.
This may be a dumb question but he goes anyway. Does the kit come with an oven or can you actually do it in your house oven.

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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-17-2012, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daviboy View Post
I got mine done on my Black/gold 09 r1 in Satin black. It's in between Matte and Gloss.

Couldn't justify spending $300+ on a set of decent rearsets.
Got my cousin to sandblast everything after I dismantled them.

Powdercoating cost $80 AUD. I'm from Down under
Turned out quite nice and thick enough that It won't rub off



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Quote:
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I began painting mine. I used Rustoleum metal paint 6 coats. Worked very well for about a year. No scuffs or scraping off. I then decided to pop the little extra and PC mine. Was about $35 for the set disassembled.

PC'd




I did the passenger ones also for about $15 more... but I dont run Pass pegs anymore..
Both of your sets look good.

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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-17-2012, 09:00 AM
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that pic looks pretty good. so you had them sandblasted then powdercoated? did you find that Satin Black matches the best?

yes and yes..

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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-17-2012, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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ok found a place to do it in satin black. my question now is, does anyone have any tips for disassembly of the rear sets? i am going to take everything apart so they can powdercoat it. also what about the shift linkage? any tips would be appreciated before i f**k something up. lol.
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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-17-2012, 01:35 PM
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This may be a dumb question but he goes anyway. Does the kit come with an oven or can you actually do it in your house oven.
its not recommended to bake the PC in an oven you're still going to cook food in. I bought a cheap $30 toaster oven and it worked great for the smaller parts like rear sets and heat shields.



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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-17-2012, 11:00 PM
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Was thinking of buying a pc machine.... Is it worth it? I mean how many parts will I do? Is it hard as painting? You know eveness and such?

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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-18-2012, 05:22 AM
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Quote:
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ok found a place to do it in satin black. my question now is, does anyone have any tips for disassembly of the rear sets? i am going to take everything apart so they can powdercoat it. also what about the shift linkage? any tips would be appreciated before i f**k something up. lol.

just take em apart. Cant hurt em... Unscrew all the bolts and remove washers and springs. Done.

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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-18-2012, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by CorpusMarine View Post
ok found a place to do it in satin black. my question now is, does anyone have any tips for disassembly of the rear sets? i am going to take everything apart so they can powdercoat it. also what about the shift linkage? any tips would be appreciated before i f**k something up. lol.
Disassembly is very easy, it might help you to snap some pictures during the disassembly to aid you when putting it all back together.


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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-18-2012, 06:50 AM
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Was thinking of buying a pc machine.... Is it worth it? I mean how many parts will I do? Is it hard as painting? You know eveness and such?

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the prepping is what gets most people. prepping a part to look good with PC is time consuming. you can sandblast the part..which is faster. but I baked the part for 20 minutes and scrubbed then with soap and sos pad. remove all traces of the soap afterwards. dry them...wear rubber gloves to keep oils on your hands off it.
set up the part to be hit with the powder. then bake.

I bought my kit from Eastwood.com i think it was like $100 with 2 colors.



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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-18-2012, 07:47 AM
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Wow I definitely didn't know about all that prep work.
I went to Eastwood. Com and saw the basic gun was like $80 so i'm willing to spend it if it's cost effective

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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-20-2012, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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well i took everything off, i think i might have to leave the gear lever silver because i cant get the rubber off, and it will melt when they bake it. also, the right foot peg is riveted on it looks like and wont come off. so i guess ill have to have them powdercoated with the pegs still attached. anyone know how to get the right foot peg off?
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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 06:25 AM Thread Starter
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any ideas on how to get the rubber off the gear shift lever? also, will the threads get messed up if i dont put a bolt in them when they get coated?
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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 12:56 PM
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PC is much thicker than paint. the bolts may be hard to thread in at first but I didn't get any issues on the car parts I have PC'd. You can use acetone and a steel brush to get the rubber off of the shifter. As for eveness when you apply PC its done so by a static charge (you charge the metal you are coating and the powdered coat is attracted to it like magnets) this insures even coating. The only thing you should focus on is getting the metal VERY clean the cleaner the metal the longer lasting the PC and the better the finish.

Mike just Mike is all.
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