Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums banner

Crash Aftermath, No Ignition.

4K views 46 replies 10 participants last post by  Masao Furusawa 
#1 · (Edited)
Crashed bike real hard on the left side, right side never made contact with anything except the rotor was messed up.

A few seconds after the crash I hit the kill switch and turned the ignition off. I tried starting the bike 3 days later, with the bike in:

Neutral (green on dash),
Kickstand down,
No error code/warning lights on dash,
kill switch disengaged,

Fuel pump primes but hitting the ignition button doesn't do anything, it doesn't even attempt to turn the engine over.

There was a very subtle sound but don't know if it has anything to do with the problem, can't describe it really. The wheel sensor ring is also bent.

All help appreciated. Sitting in a puddle of tears.


 
See less See more
1
#6 · (Edited)
Alright will do. I just have to start ordering parts for the rebuild, but I wanted to know if the engine was alright before I do. Given the robustness of sportbike engine nowadays is it safe to say that engine damage would be an impossibility in my case?

The wheel is misaligned with the top triple as well, it's very difficult to tell where the problem is, the top triple looks alright. The strange thing is that Yamaha sells the right fork with the lower triple and left fork separately.
Any experience with this?
 
#9 · (Edited)
have you tried putting it on a trickle charger. its possible as it happened to me long ago on my 09 after a small low side slide that the battery just lost a cell or something and didnt have the juice to start the bike it just made a clicking from the tail. which is what i always hear anytime the battery is dead....it stays on a trickle charger once i put it back in the garage now.

as for the forks you can just get the forks. #1 and #21 on the diagram. they only show the triple attached so you know how exactly they are attached. but you're looking at $668 bucks each fork. i would just buy a used straight fork off ebay for a couple hundred then change oil and seals on it. then you could get the black forks which is what the gray color should have come with from the factory.

and also are you sure its not just the clip on that got mangled? it looks like it took a hit. line the wheel up straight by actually touching the wheel, they see how the upper triple looks. if the forks look straight or if the clipon is cockeyed. could potentionally save you hundreds if its just the clipons
Thanks for the feedback guys.

I understand what you mean about the battery. I didn't hear any clicking, it could still be the battery as you suggested but the bike didn't make any noticeable sounds when I attempted to start it, will check it out.

The left clipon broke off completely, at the clamp, the clutch lever works perfectly though. When I straighten the top triple the wheel ends up pointing to the right considerably. I'll try again with the wheel and report back.
So far I'm not sure if I would need new triples or not yet.

Originally this scheme (2014 Eurospec) actually comes with gold forks.

The clueless salesman told me the right fork comes with the bottom triple, even though it's completely nonsensical I believed him when I shouldn't have. Another nonsensical thing is, if you buy the calipers they come with brake pads, and they can't separate the pads from the calipers because its against policy and therefore will charge you for them. I plan on sourcing a used caliper anyway since my right caliper is in perfect condition, only the left one is rashed and bled all the fluid but no one is willing to sell a lone caliper.

The TC sensor is also mangled but the cable looks to be in good condition from the outside.
 
#8 ·
have you tried putting it on a trickle charger. its possible as it happened to me long ago on my 09 after a small low side slide that the battery just lost a cell or something and didnt have the juice to start the bike it just made a clicking from the tail. which is what i always hear anytime the battery is dead....it stays on a trickle charger once i put it back in the garage now.

as for the forks you can just get the forks. #1 and #21 on the diagram. they only show the triple attached so you know how exactly they are attached. but you're looking at $668 bucks each fork. i would just buy a used straight fork off ebay for a couple hundred then change oil and seals on it. then you could get the black forks which is what the gray color should have come with from the factory.

and also are you sure its not just the clip on that got mangled? it looks like it took a hit. line the wheel up straight by actually touching the wheel, they see how the upper triple looks. if the forks look straight or if the clipon is cockeyed. could potentionally save you hundreds if its just the clipons
 
#10 ·
I have a 2012.
The main wiring harness runs right up where the bike has taken a hit. My bet is that a wire has been torn loose out of one of the harness plugs. Also, the ECU sits right where the bike has taken an impact, I would re-seat all the ECU wires in the ECU plugs. It's not hard to pull them out, even when the retaining clips are clicked in.

Pull the side fairing off, and check all the connectors, and then check the wiring harness for torn, stretched, or crushed wires/connectors. Disconnect the battery and put it on a charger, chances are there's a short to ground and it's flattened the battery too.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Thanks for the detailed feedback, I plan to do that real soon.

I'm getting conflicting opinions on sourcing parts, should I wait until I make sure the engine runs first or should I start sourcing already? People tell me the engine could have gone to hell, others say it is impossible from a lowside like mine.
 
#13 ·
i would just buy all used off this forum, hit up the WTB section and you will save a ton of money.. ive been in the same situation, and trust me the people here will help you a million times over your dealer
 
#15 ·
I would start looking for parts. Highly doubtful that any actual engine damage was done if it was actually just a minor low side. Engine should have been killed when it went over. But definitely check your wiring connections and all the fuses. And scour the forum classified for parts, you can usually find some great stuff floating around.
 
#16 ·
Thanks for the feedback guys, I managed to take a more thorough look at the front end, and one thing is for sure, it wasn't a minor lowside:

Fork 1


Fork 2


ECU Connections


Damper Mounting Point


I'll check the fuses today, but I guess these pictures mean new forks, I don't know about the triple clamp?
Any chance of frame damage at the steering head?

I checked the ECU primary connections and they seem fine, can't get the fairing off, the bolts are ground down.
 
#19 ·
Best to have a shop check geometry to be sure. The frames are pretty stout though, so hopefully it's just localized to the forks. I'm pretty sure where the turn stop meets the head is solid, so may just have some marks in the finish. I did more damage to the front of my R6 and the frame was fine, but each crash is unique and best to have it checked professionally.
 
#24 ·
Alright thanks.

The bike is at the dealer and since he hasn't fired it up yet, he says the ECU connections look alright but he'll require the 'red' master key since the 'red' immboilizer light doesn't flash like it's suppose to.

What exactly can the red key offer that the regular key doesn't?
 
#27 · (Edited)
Yeah I'm aware, thanks but I was hoping Canadian and EU members can chip in.

The red key is the programming key, the black keys (once programmed) are for every day use. Basically the red key should always work.

Do you have a 2012-2014 R1 EU service manual downloaded?
I don't have it no, just the owner's manual. The thing is I don't understand why the red key would still be needed since the black key I use is fine, it wasn't bent in the crash or anything. Dealer says it can't be the battery or fuses but he didn't check them. When he used diagnostic mode, the fan didn't come on when it was supposed to. Since the diagnostic mode is functioning well then the ECU should be fine, but it's probably a fuse right? This also rules the BAS out I think. Kickstand sensor?

EDIT: When you turn the ignition on, the lights also don't work.
 
#29 ·
Thanks a bunch for the manual link.

Diagnostic mode shows the following errors:

22: intake air temperature lead. Weird thing is the manual states that riding is possible, but the dealer demonstrated on another bike that once it is unplugged the bike won't start.
31: turnover of vehicle, lean angle sensor related
40: open or short circuit of lean angle sensor lead.
 
#30 ·
Well that narrows things down and the intake temp sensor is on that side. Does it say start up is possible, or just riding? Some errors will allow you to continue, but not start once shut off.

Lean angle sensor will also kill things pretty quick.

At least you have some direction now.
 
#31 ·
The manual says riding and engine startup are possible, but the tech showed me today a bike that wouldn't start when he unplugged the intake temperature sensor.

What's driving me crazy is that I'm holding off on any parts I need to order (a tonne of parts) until I'm sure that the engine will start. I mean the GYTR frame slider was ground down but it didn't break of the mount or anything, and there was little delrin left at the very end, could the engine really be damaged in any way? Most of the front end damage was caused by the wheel contacting the pavement, but nothing is for sure.
 
#32 · (Edited)
I'd say it's the two sensors keeping it from starting. Should be good to go once those are fixed. I could be wrong, but you should be able to reset the errors.

Are you sure about the error codes? 40 is secondary injectors, 41 is lean angle sensor, I don't see a 31, but I do see 30 for turn over of vehicle (lean angle sensor), and 22 is the temp sensor as you said.
 
#33 ·
Yup, my mistake, it's 30 not 31.

I'll check the error codes again, 40 is secondary injectors, the worst case solution is to replace the wire harness if it applies, but it doesn't specify which harness exactly, the whole fuel system harness or just the one for the injector, not sure.
 
#35 ·
Well, get this, the engine wasn't starting because the ignition button failed. The actual button you press to start the bike malfunctioned, even though it's on the right side, the right side was untouched during the crash. The techs were like WTF???

The problem is if you go through the manual you'll find that the engine not starting combined with the engine warning light not coming on, means there is a list of 20 something sensors/actuators that you must inspect and then if they're all in good working order, it means you have internal engine damage. I was on the edge until I got a call telling me they managed to get the motor to start.

Bad news: fairing stay is screwed, engine casing is chipped. Feeling blue, dark blue.
 
#37 · (Edited)
I am confused....how did that get ground down but nothing else get ground down.....things that stick out beyond it. But the head of the bolt is missing....:confused
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top