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Qustions for R1 fiends. Oil Baffle, Gas Cap, Plug for gauges

2K views 3 replies 2 participants last post by  bohem3006 
#1 ·
I'm putting an 06 R1 motor in a race car and need some guidance..

1. Any cheap gas caps? I have an 05 tank and don't want to pay more for cap.. The cheapest I found is $89. any reason (venting etc) a car's gas cap $12 can't be welded on.

2. Anyone know of a U.S. supplier of aluminum oil sump baffle kits used to prevent oil surge?

3. Any racers have the Gauge Cluster to Main Harness wiring?

4. Anyone know the thread pitch for the upper motor mount point or have a pair of bolts for sale?

Thanks so much. Maybe my next R1 project will have 2 wheels..
 
#2 ·
1. Why are you using the MC tank and not a fuel cell? MC tanks don't do well in car type impacts, in fact, they can be downright dangerous.


2. Try ATL for an oil baffle kit. If not, you can do it yourself, another option is to just dry sump the motor, this is significantly more involved, but it allows you to lower the motor in the chassis another couple inches.

3. Just use the stock wiring and clip out the parts you don't need. Get a service manual, you'll want it for diagnosing engine issues in the future anyway. If you get the manual and you want help with this, I can do it.

4. I think the upper mount is an M10x1.25 bolt. I don't remember what the length is offhand.

What car is this going in? I put an 04 R1 motor in a Radical, pretty much all the fuel and wiring issues I've already tackled, if you need help further, just ask.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the help. The radicals are amazing.. I esp like the rear diff solution and their new Haybusa v8 motor. If only I had the $ or time.

I am finishing up a Locost Seven (looks like a Westfield or Caterham).

I have a cheapo Jazz fuel cell but after looking at the R1 fuel pump decided that a lighter smaller bike tank is in order--I really didn't want to cut a hole in the fuel cell and mess with it. Though I know I'll never more than track day it without a big $$ fuel safe unit.

The tank will be mounted in the scuttle/behind dash above passenger compartment footwell. The mounting appears super easy and with the small capacity, small size, less the plastic nose, and solid design I believe to be as safe as the Jazz plastic cell. At least it is covered, and protected by the space frame and roll bar.

I just picked up a R1 the manual online. It appears my motor (from a wreck) only included the main harness, as non of the connectors reach or fit the stock cluster in where I imagine it would be places. All I have is the main power, voltage regulator a bunch of relays, and a harness that snakes tightly around the motor, injectors to the fans on the radiator.

I like the plug and play concept, so might try to pick the R1 turn signals, ignition switch horn, and front light/signal harness--at least then I'll know what each plug is for.. I've toyed with the idea of making the cross over bar (steering shaft mounts under it) the same dia as the handle bars and simply mount them behind the steering wheel

I'll have to order some bolts or drill out the hole a bit to 12mm. I can't find much in way of metric bolts out here in Wyoming!


Sorry so long.. I hope I'm not bugging the Bikers.

How did you deal with the superlight short throw clutch lever?

Dids you do a paddle w/push pull cable , or electronic shifter?

Thanks again.
 
#4 ·
Clutch was installed with a hydraulic master and slave setup.

The in tank fuel pump was easily dealt with, I simply machined myself a mounting plate for it, stuffed it inside an aluminum enclosure outside of the ATL cell in the Radical, and fed the lines to it. The setup required a primary fuel pump before the R1 pump to run the fuel from the cell area to the engine bay. The AL enclosure I mentioned looked like a paint can basically, but all seams were welded, and I made it from AL 6061 because it was going in a racing car.

Just look around on the Forum for the wiring harness, I just turned down a buy for an 02 complete harness for 115 bucks (I didn't need it that bad).

Get the gauge cluster if you can, just run everything stock, it's soooo easy to diagnose problems this way, the computer tells you what's wrong.

DO NOT drill the head bolt points out. Just get on Fastenal.com or something, find those bolts. Order them from Yammie. They're worth the little bit extra money.

The head is designed to dissipate heat in a specific manner. Drilling material out of it can completely change the heatflow characteristics of it. Similarly, don't install helacoils in the spark plug threads or cam covers. The heat pathway changes, and screws things.

Good idea on the stock turn signals and such.

The guy I built the Radical for also had a Superformance replica of the lotus. I used to do all the setup and maintenance on that too. I really miss those cars, they were too small for me to really get comfortable in, but they were amazingly fun to drive.

my email address is in my profile, if you have any further questions you can email me there

actually, it might not be so here it is.

dilligasty@gmail dot com
 
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