Suggestions on removing stuck axle bolt??? - Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums
General Motorcycle Discussions Any general discussions related to Motorcycles goes in here.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-22-2008, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
Im Ok, Its My Bike Thats Sick!
 
j334's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Cali
Posts: 304
Suggestions on removing stuck axle bolt???

I have a couple issues with my 04 R1. First off; I'm trying to remove the rear wheel and the axle bolt won't budge at all!!!! I like to think that I am pretty but this thing will not move. I tried using both the tool that came in my tool box and my 32mm socket to no success. I have taken the tire off a few times before with no problems, but for some reason this time it's giving me problems.

My 2nd issue is that the cable that attaches to the rear keyhole for the rear compartment came undone and I am not able to access my PCIII or switch out my seat cap to my solo cowl. Any ideas or suggestions on this issue? Thanx

04 R1
Custom Air Brushed Fighter Jet Paint scheme
Custom Pearl White and carbon fiber theme

Mods-M4 exhaust, PCIII, K&N filter, Gilles rearsets, red steel braided brake lines,pazzo levers, carbon fiber airbox, ram air tubes, frame cover, heat shield, chain guard, rear hugger.
j334 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-22-2008, 07:51 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: LA, CA.
Posts: 11,161
Spray PB-40 on the thread / bolt and leave it overnight. Heat up the bolt evenly with a torch and it will come right off.
Sal_R1 is offline  
post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-22-2008, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
Im Ok, Its My Bike Thats Sick!
 
j334's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Cali
Posts: 304
Thanx alot man!!! I'll give it a shot... I've never heard of PB-40 but if I can't find that I will just use WD-40 instead...Thanx again

04 R1
Custom Air Brushed Fighter Jet Paint scheme
Custom Pearl White and carbon fiber theme

Mods-M4 exhaust, PCIII, K&N filter, Gilles rearsets, red steel braided brake lines,pazzo levers, carbon fiber airbox, ram air tubes, frame cover, heat shield, chain guard, rear hugger.
j334 is offline  
post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-22-2008, 08:21 PM
14k+ posts and not one helpful
 
lexanidubs09's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: so cal.
Posts: 14,127
i think he meant WD-40



|R1-014 Dragon Squadron|Member # 09|
Covering: West/SW USA: CA, HI, NV, AZ


R1-Forum Genius:
Quote:
Originally Posted by montmont View Post
Alot of people talk down on ebay/Chinese products.. I don't understand why... our bikes come from Japan... same country people, duh...


TEAM SNACH

My Sponsors

Junito70-Bodywork
Grom111-Grom photography
Bgesch- Everything
DavidSFC- Alcohol & Bunny Food
Deja Vu Showgirls- "M"oral support
lexanidubs09 is offline  
post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-22-2008, 09:16 PM
I eat my R1
 
steveWFL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 8,498
and maybe a big huge hammer


Concours14 (people always ask mileage, its over 85,000 already)
KTM 530 EXC - for the ADVenture riding
ZX9R - restored to pristine
ZZR600 - my girl is learnin'
steveWFL is offline  
post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-22-2008, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
Im Ok, Its My Bike Thats Sick!
 
j334's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Cali
Posts: 304
I couldn't find the PB-40 but I did find some PB-50 and supposedly its better than WD-40. I will see in the morning. If not I'll resort to option B, The "big huge hammer"...

04 R1
Custom Air Brushed Fighter Jet Paint scheme
Custom Pearl White and carbon fiber theme

Mods-M4 exhaust, PCIII, K&N filter, Gilles rearsets, red steel braided brake lines,pazzo levers, carbon fiber airbox, ram air tubes, frame cover, heat shield, chain guard, rear hugger.
j334 is offline  
post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-22-2008, 11:25 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: LA, CA.
Posts: 11,161
Quote:
Originally Posted by j334 View Post
I couldn't find the PB-40 but I did find some PB-50 and supposedly its better than WD-40. I will see in the morning. If not I'll resort to option B, The "big huge hammer"...
Right you are! PB-50 is the stuff. available at Pep Boys, Sears and mosr major auto places.
Sal_R1 is offline  
post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-22-2008, 11:26 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: LA, CA.
Posts: 11,161
Quote:
Originally Posted by lexanidubs09 View Post
i think he meant WD-40
What i meant was, when is the date set for the squadron titty bar ride?
Sal_R1 is offline  
post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 01:30 AM
Freezing
 
bunnyrbt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Spring Creek, NV
Posts: 5,654
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveWFL View Post
and maybe a big huge hammer

I've used a breaker bar and a hammer when mine gets stuck and it works like a charm.

RIP Pierre (DieYoung69) You will be missed brother!!! * It's sammich & beer time


"
We've reached that comfort level, cause I've been drinking."
Devil1


Definition of ignorant

n. a person who portrays ignorant qualities and is non knowing of facts. used as insult.

adj. a derogatory term used to describe someone who should keep their mouth shut.
bunnyrbt is offline  
post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 05:20 AM
G Addict
 
Viper333's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: 208.12 miles to the Gap
Posts: 2,851
WD40 and the PB 50 are good for lubricating things but if you want to get something that penetrates into tight or rusted corroded areas you will have better results with a penetranting catalist like liquid wrench.
I personally have had the best results with PB blaster. Its also generally available at most auto parts stores.
http://www.jeepfan.com/reviews/pbblaster.htm

Its doubtful your problem is corrosion and sounds like youre overtorqueing and maybe even lightly galling the threads.
Galling: to lose metal to the other because of heat or molecular attraction resulting from friction.

Dont get so heavy on the nut when securing the axle and dont torque it dry. At least put some WD or oil on the threads.
Use a torque wrench and question the axle torque specs in the manual. Yamaha has been known to enter too high a torque value to things like axles and sprockets.
A torch can also help by expanding the nut a little, but a cheater bar is ususlly the trick.
If possible try to use a 6 point socket because of the less damaging/larger contact area it exerts on the nut.
The axle nut is big enough that its unlikely youll round it off but when you have a high torque condition its best to use 6 points.



As far as the seatlock. That will be fun. Someone thats done that will have to chime in or take a good look at it with someone mechanically inclined before getting at it.

Best of luck
Rick


Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	MH584375.jpg
Views:	23
Size:	27.0 KB
ID:	361598  

- Id rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6.
- Horsepower=Too Much is Just Enough
- It's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years.
"What do you want me to do? Slow down?" Mick Doohan
Viper333 is offline  
post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 05:31 AM
R1 is yummy
 
Piper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Yokohama, Japan
Posts: 553
Quote:
My 2nd issue is that the cable that attaches to the rear keyhole for the rear compartment came undone and I am not able to access my PCIII or switch out my seat cap to my solo cowl. Any ideas or suggestions on this issue? Thanx
Haven't tried it myself, but I heard that the OEM seat will bend up in the middle, and with enough effort the tab holding it in at the back will pop out.
Piper is offline  
post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 06:04 AM
Banned
 
turd1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: melbourne.Aus
Posts: 31,559
Quote:
Originally Posted by Viper333 View Post
WD40 and the PB 50 are good for lubricating things but if you want to get something that penetrates into tight or rusted corroded areas you will have better results with a penetranting catalist like liquid wrench.
I personally have had the best results with PB blaster. Its also generally available at most auto parts stores.
http://www.jeepfan.com/reviews/pbblaster.htm

Its doubtful your problem is corrosion and sounds like youre overtorqueing and maybe even lightly galling the threads.
Galling: to lose metal to the other because of heat or molecular attraction resulting from friction.

Dont get so heavy on the nut when securing the axle and dont torque it dry. At least put some WD or oil on the threads.
Use a torque wrench and question the axle torque specs in the manual. Yamaha has been known to enter too high a torque value to things like axles and sprockets.
A torch can also help by expanding the nut a little, but a cheater bar is ususlly the trick.
If possible try to use a 6 point socket because of the less damaging/larger contact area it exerts on the nut.
The axle nut is big enough that its unlikely youll round it off but when you have a high torque condition its best to use 6 points.



As far as the seatlock. That will be fun. Someone thats done that will have to chime in or take a good look at it with someone mechanically inclined before getting at it.

Best of luck
Rick


a good post right there...
+1 on the galling theory too!
turd1 is offline  
post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 07:18 AM
G Addict
 
Viper333's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: 208.12 miles to the Gap
Posts: 2,851
Quote:
Originally Posted by blur1 View Post
a good post right there...
+1 on the galling theory too!
Thanks and I know.
By the way. All the best to you mates down under for the Holidays.



- Id rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6.
- Horsepower=Too Much is Just Enough
- It's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years.
"What do you want me to do? Slow down?" Mick Doohan
Viper333 is offline  
post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 07:23 AM
Banned
 
turd1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: melbourne.Aus
Posts: 31,559
Quote:
Originally Posted by Viper333 View Post
Thanks and I know.
By the way. All the best to you mates down under for the Holidays.


right back atcha bro!
damm, i just noticed you've been a member longer than me!
turd1 is offline  
post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 07:40 AM
G Addict
 
Viper333's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: 208.12 miles to the Gap
Posts: 2,851
Quote:
Originally Posted by blur1 View Post
right back atcha bro!
damm, i just noticed you've been a member longer than me!
Damn thats true. Id have never thought it by the post counts.
I guess I can call you Junior then.

- Id rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6.
- Horsepower=Too Much is Just Enough
- It's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years.
"What do you want me to do? Slow down?" Mick Doohan
Viper333 is offline  
post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 07:48 AM
Banned
 
turd1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: melbourne.Aus
Posts: 31,559
Quote:
Originally Posted by Viper333 View Post
Damn thats true. Id have never thought it by the post counts.
I guess I can call you Junior then.
lol....yep!
turd1 is offline  
post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 07:58 AM
Moderatorasfcvk
 
KMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Huntsvegas
Posts: 44,313
Just to clarify, you already have the nut off of it, right?....and it's the axle itself that is stuck inside the wheel?

Spray some penetrating lube in there and hit it with an impact wrench a few times at low pressure. A few sharp impulses will do better to break it free than trying to muscle it off with high force. Once you do, I'd suggest replacing it and anything else that was stuck to it. And when you reinstall make sure the axle is not dry, lube it lightly with something.

KMac is offline  
post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 08:02 AM
Banned
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: LA, CA.
Posts: 11,161
The mutual commendation society!

Quote:
Originally Posted by blur1 View Post
a good post right there...
+1 on the galling theory too!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Viper333 View Post
Thanks and I know.
By the way. All the best to you mates down under for the Holidays.


Quote:
Originally Posted by blur1 View Post
right back atcha bro!
damm, i just noticed you've been a member longer than me!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Viper333 View Post
Damn thats true. Id have never thought it by the post counts.
I guess I can call you Junior then.
Quote:
Originally Posted by blur1 View Post
lol....yep!
Sal_R1 is offline  
post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 08:37 AM
G Addict
 
Viper333's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: 208.12 miles to the Gap
Posts: 2,851
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kmac View Post
Just to clarify, you already have the nut off of it, right?....and it's the axle itself that is stuck inside the wheel?

Spray some penetrating lube in there and hit it with an impact wrench a few times at low pressure. A few sharp impulses will do better to break it free than trying to muscle it off with high force. Once you do, I'd suggest replacing it and anything else that was stuck to it. And when you reinstall make sure the axle is not dry, lube it lightly with something.


Its unlikely the axle isnt turning with the nut off because the only thing to hold it would be the brake carrier. Everyting else is bearings and with the nut relieved I doubt the spacers could grip it enough to cause the issue.
It happens but is rare and yes the penetrant impact way would be the way to go.
If he has the nut off then the issue is usually the axle wont slide out because of it being siezed/corroded to the spacers and/or bearings.
Many times when you try to hit the end of the axle, the outer arm thats recieving the impact (through the stuck axle/spacer assy) will act like a spring, absorb the impacts and bounce back.
Ive seen guys sledge the shiat out of axles and not get them out, because of that springing action. Sometime a strategically placed heavy piece of wood on the outer arm helps keep it from springing out and exerts more impact load in the axle. Just be careful to not ding up the arm.

I use a handheld airhammer and at its imact rate it hits while the arm is springing back. This has been the best way Ive found to unstick an axle.
Of course you never pound on the end of the axle and destroy the threads. Its best to use a sacrificial nut screwed onto the threads leaving it proud, or put the stock one on backwards at least.
If its not too stuck then a hammer and drift will work with some penetrant.
Either way let us know what it is/was, good luck and dont hurt her.

- Id rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6.
- Horsepower=Too Much is Just Enough
- It's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years.
"What do you want me to do? Slow down?" Mick Doohan
Viper333 is offline  
post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 08:40 AM
Moderatorasfcvk
 
KMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Huntsvegas
Posts: 44,313
I don't disagree with any of that. Would be interesting to find out what is holding it, though. I'd feel pretty dumb to find out it was something like the chain was ungodly tight or something else mostly unrelated.

KMac is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New in bag Ti R1 axle bolt rorlow Bike Parts For Sale 7 12-02-2008 04:01 AM
changing rotors/pads on car, bolt stuck suggestions? rorytsm Off Topic Talk 10 06-23-2008 06:43 AM
Removing rear axle nut?? 03ki11er Mechanical / Help 6 10-19-2006 12:14 PM
Front forks, compression bolt stuck Jack_R1 Mechanical / Help 9 04-06-2006 03:52 PM
Rear axle bolt TITANIUMR1 Mechanical / Help 7 12-05-2002 02:59 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome