All Your Answers On How To Wheelie - Page 2 - Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums

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post #21 of 179 (permalink) Old 10-04-2004, 12:13 PM
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yeah i'm still practicing


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post #22 of 179 (permalink) Old 10-04-2004, 02:35 PM
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easier said than done. I am still at powering up in second. I still can't clutch properly.
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post #23 of 179 (permalink) Old 10-04-2004, 07:53 PM
working on that new bike
 
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<=====doesnt have to clutch second no more

-1/+2 gearing baby!!!!

absolutely great!!


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post #24 of 179 (permalink) Old 10-05-2004, 06:05 AM
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This bit doesn't make any sense to me at all, can some one explain my question ?

Tires: When doing high-speed wheelies make sure you have a good rear tire. A tire with a flat spot in the middle can cause wobbles. I learned wheelies on a rear tire that was almost down to the cords in the middle, and it would often wobble like crazy when doing balance point wheelies. A new tire almost completely eliminated that problem. Run the tire pressure lower than stock. For doing wheelies above 20 mph, have the tire pressure between 20 and 30psi. For doing wheelies slower than 20 mph, lower the pressure to between 12 and 20. Lower tire pressure makes the wheelie more stable from side to side.

Question:

So why does running a flatter tyre not give you the same as a tyre with a worn centre, the effect is the same right, bigger foot print on the road...

So what gives ??????

R1DER

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post #25 of 179 (permalink) Old 10-05-2004, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by R1DER

Question:

So why does running a flatter tyre not give you the same as a tyre with a worn centre, the effect is the same right, bigger foot print on the road...

So what gives ??????
I'm going to guess that some people would say that a worn tire would give less traction/grip and therefore be more prone to sliding instead of actually picking the front up. My own personal experience is that I did some great wheelies w/ a tire that had a fairly worn-flat center, so I dunno. I learned by clutching and those are fun, went +2 on the rear sprocket and now power wheelies are a little easier and I seem to ride them out just as long as the clutch ups witch I pick up at 35-40mph, as opposed to the power wheelies that come up at 55-60mph (both in 2nd gear). Go figure?
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post #26 of 179 (permalink) Old 10-05-2004, 06:58 AM
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just remember, no matter how much you know.. there will always be a time when it comes up and bites you in the ass.. see figure 1:

Sundays ride ended with this
1:


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post #27 of 179 (permalink) Old 10-05-2004, 07:04 AM
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Such is life. Play and be prepared to pay the consequences, no matter how experienced you may be.
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post #28 of 179 (permalink) Old 10-05-2004, 08:48 AM
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What happened ? Sorry about your bike Bro
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post #29 of 179 (permalink) Old 10-05-2004, 09:38 AM
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Ouch. Just curious. Were the clip on out of service? Why did ya'll lay it down in the truck.

Ok, another issue off topic for some grammer majors.
Is it "lie it down" or "lay it down" I vaugely remember my 6th grade english teacher telling me and then some other grade teacher telling me the other somewhere in my childhood (To tell you the truth I don't think either of them knew.)


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post #30 of 179 (permalink) Old 10-05-2004, 09:39 AM
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Oops... Sorry, I should have looked at the pic again. That sucker is ripped off!


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post #31 of 179 (permalink) Old 10-05-2004, 10:34 AM
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ah we were just doing your every day wheelie, it came up to high and nothing icould do. rider error is all... went down 70-80mph which was the bad part but i walked away, thank God for helmets and leathers, didnt have the pants on so my jeans were ripped apart but legs are fine, got road rash on my bike still from perhaps where my jacket slid up a little, hand is in a brace right now and have a bump on the head.. other than that im alright! wear gear always! (we layed it in the truck because we didnt want cops to show up or anything.. plus everything on that side was screwed anyhow... started it today, just need to buy more parts.. let the heavy modding begin!
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post #32 of 179 (permalink) Old 10-05-2004, 11:44 AM
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So what went wrong with the wheelie ? Are you down one tooth in the front ?
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post #33 of 179 (permalink) Old 01-21-2005, 06:03 PM
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I'm no wheelie expert & the ones I do on are weak.
My advise amounts 2 cover your rear brake at all times!!!
Maybe 1 of you Stunta Nutz can use this...

Article written by DMann, formerly of LVX -

The basics, or can I wheelie my bike?

If your bike doesn't have a side car, or a trailer, it can probably be wheelied. I've shifted into 2nd on one wheel on YSR's. I've wheelied dirt bikes, street bikes, and a couple of standards. I've seen Harleys, Goldwings, Katanas, and 125's all pawing at the sky. Yes, your bike can wheelie. Wheelies are made up of three parts. The launch, getting the front wheel off the ground. The balancing portion, riding the wheelie as long as you safely can, clicking gears along the way. This is the most difficult part of wheeling to master. And lastly, set down phase, placing the front wheel back on the ground as safely as possible, trying to place as little wear and tear as possible on your bike.

The Launch
The launch isn't the most difficult part of doing a wheelie. But I'll spend the most time on this section, because this is where there is the most variation. The less power you have, the fewer your options are. I'm going to divide the launch into three sections. Rolling it on, suspension help, and clutch help.

Rolling it on
This is probably the safest way, to launch a wheelie, but it doesn't work on an EX-500, or many older 600's. Simply put, just gradually increase your throttle while in first gear, until you are wide open. If your bike has enough power, your front wheel will just come up. I've found this to work very easily on a Suzuki TL1000s, and a Yamaha R1. Didn't work on my 93 900rr, sometimes works on my Kawaski ZX-11. Never works on my YSR. If you have a 600 that you want to do this with, just lower the gearing. With the race gearing I have on my GSXR600 this technique also works. With the stock gearing, no way in hell. So exactly how do you roll it on. Go to about 1/3 of your tach range in 1st gear, then in the amount of time it takes you to say one-thousand-one, have the throttle at full.

Using Suspensions to help
Ok, so your bike won't roll it on, but you don't want to abuse your clutch. I'm going to talk here about things you can do, that basically assist the roll-on wheelie. These may take practice to work well, but understanding the concepts will apply to any bike. If your bike doesn't do a roll on wheelie, find yourself a steep road, and see if you can wheelie uphill. Is it easier? It should be. The reason why, is that your center of gravity, has already been moved back, lightening your front end. Once you get the wheel off the ground, it takes less power to get it higher.

Those first two inches are the hardest part. Before you ride your bike next time, put both feet on the ground, and push as hard as you can on the front end. Then let it come back up. Practice bouncing the front end up and down. Push hard, and let it come back up. While riding your bike, you can get a similar behavior, by using the throttle. If you whack the throttle open, the front end will come up. At its peak, if you shut the throttle down, engine braking, in combination with the weight of your front end will cause it to go back down. When it's at the bottom of its stroke, if you whack the throttle back open again, you can use the expansion of your front springs, along with your acceleration, to help lift the front wheel. In fact, it doesn't take much at all, to do this.

I'll use my GSXR with stock gearing as an example. I would get going in first gear, so the tach was at about 8500 rpm. Then I would shut the throttle down, then whack it back on. Tugging at the bars a little also helps. This snapping of the throttle is a much quicker movement then rolling your throttle on. Not as quick as you can do it, but I guess that the entire movement should take about 1/2 or less of a second. Basically, go from steady state, shut down, then full open. After some practice you will learn how to time it with your suspension.
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post #34 of 179 (permalink) Old 01-21-2005, 06:05 PM
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continued...

Using the Clutch
So you still can't get the front wheel to come up? I actually find that clutching it up, gives me the most predictable wheelies than any other method. Why? Its much easier to do exactly the same thing over, and over. Basically get rolling in 1st gear to an RPM of about 1/3 to 1/2 of your maximum hp. This is what worked well on my GSXR-600, when it had stock gearing. I would go to about 5000 rpm in 1st gear. Pull in the clutch, rev the engine a time or two, to time it so that the throttle would be wide open and the clutch releasing as the tach swept 9-10k. The next thing you know, your front wheel is way up in the air, and your RPM's are at about 8,000 with the throttle full on. At this point, I would have to roll off some, to find the balance point of the bike. As you learn to do this on your own bike, start out conservatively on your clutch release point, and gradually increase the RPM's each time you try it, until the wheel comes up so high you have to roll off the throttle a tad. You may want to cover your rear brake while you are learning this as well, in case you go too high. Standing up fast, will also help put the front end back down if you over do it. Remember these things!

Shifting
Ok, so now you have the front wheel up. How do you keep it up? Shift! It's actually much easier then it seems. When you can ride a long ways in first gear without being full-throttle, you are more than ready to shift. My favorite way to shift, is without the clutch. If you haven't done clutchless shifts before, practice on two wheels first. To do a clutchless shift, apply upward pressure to the shift lever, while you are full on the gas, then just briefly snap the throttle, off an on again. This is the fastest way to shift. When on one wheel, you have to get the front wheel really high, to the point where you need to let off the gas from tipping over. At this point, shift! Balance and practice are both important steps here. Practice those clutchless shifts.

Bringing it Down
So now your front wheel is going down. Either because you got scared and let off the gas, or you just don't have the power to keep it up. Make sure that your front wheel is pointing straight ahead, and keep the throttle open Wide! You want to set the front wheel down as easy as possible. If you chop the throttle, your landing will be very hard, so stay on the gas! Or if you need to come down, just briefly roll off the gas, then get right back on it again, until the front wheel sets down. Expect a chirping noise, and sometimes at higher speeds a bit of a wobble, but as long as the wheel is straight, it's not a big deal.

Body Position
Where you place your body during where wheelie can have some interesting effects. If you completely weight your footpegs, and sorta stand up, I've found it easiest to get really close to the balance point this way, but It's more difficult to shift while in that position. My reasoning for why balancing is easier standing, is that I've noticed you don't have to spend so much effort holding your body in place, which is frequently done by your hands pulling back on the handlebars. Another reason, could be that your legs are better balance sensors than your butt. In any event, it's definitely worth a try. Hanging off to the side, was something I really started doing without noticing and I was always veering off to one side. You might do this, so that you can see where you are going. When your front end gets way up in the air, you can't see over it very well. So you might have a tendency to lean over one side to get a glimpse around. What I found out, is that you can steer this way. To keep yourself, in the center of your lane, just hang off, the same as you would if you were riding with no hands.

Does this hurt my Bike?
When you are first learning you will probably do more damage to your bike then during any other time. This is mainly because of missed shifts, or rear brake stomping, or anything that slams your front end down. You may bust a fork seal. You will probably wear out your steering stem bearings faster than normal, and you will definitely need to tighten your steering head down more frequently. You may also wear your rear tire slightly flat, as hard wheelie acceleration wears out the centers more quickly than normal. You will stretch your chain out, if you use the clutch method. Another detriment to the clutch method, aren't clutch wear, but clutch basket wear. The sudden force of the clutch plates against the ears of the basket can notch the basket. This will prevent you from pulling in the clutch, any time there is load on the engine. Of course, all sorts of fasteners may come loose a little faster than normal, I've noticed mirrors and other front end body fasteners in particular want to fall off. So check out em out frequently.

Disclaimer
Derrick "D-Mann" Daigle is released from all liability from injury or death due to this web page/site, All stunts performed on this site are done by professional riders in controlled environments who wear the proper safety gear at all times. You are the only one responsible for your actions if you get injured, incur any fines, end up in jail, injure others, or become a local legend, while attempting anything you learned from this page. The stunts that are described throughout this site are considered illegal if performed on the street. We do not endorse illegal activities of any nature to include stunt riding on the street. Your local law enforcement officers will consider any of the above actions "reckless driving" at a minimum, even if you are going less than the speed limit. Use your head. Have fun, ride hard but stay out of trouble! Last but not least - be sensible when performing stunts of any nature. If it doesn't feel right - stop and think about it twice. You might just live longer!

If you can't get your bike to wheelie, try using more RPM!

Good luck
D-Mann

http://www.d-mann.com/
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post #35 of 179 (permalink) Old 03-02-2005, 06:53 AM
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With all my experience racing, you would think I know how to wheelie. NOT! I have before, but not on purpose (i.e. from the start line).

I would like to learn just so it won't freak me out so much when I do it off the start line.

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post #36 of 179 (permalink) Old 03-10-2005, 11:36 PM
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Looks like good start up advice, will let u know how it turns out.

:ROCK
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post #37 of 179 (permalink) Old 03-20-2005, 08:08 PM
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Without clutching up is it easier and smooter to bounce up with a throttle punch in 2nd gear? How fast are you going?

I usually do it in 1st gear at 7.5 rpm's and it comes right up really quick. ( the problem is your going really fast, about 65mph. Does anyone know what rpm range this works best in 2nd gear. and the speed your traveling at?


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post #38 of 179 (permalink) Old 03-20-2005, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
clutch it up!!!
 
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the problem without clutching and powering up is that u cannot control your speed

...Here once lived a good man... or so the story went...


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post #39 of 179 (permalink) Old 03-20-2005, 08:37 PM
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Yes, Yes, that is the problem and on the 04-05 r1 you don't get enough torque to power up till 7000 rpm. and at that point your going at 65mph already, so by the time im up. im at 75-80 mph in 1st gear. Its a little too fast.

I can't imagine some of these other guys doing it in second gear (powering up). You must be going 90 or somehing like that.


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post #40 of 179 (permalink) Old 03-29-2005, 01:06 PM
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Thank you for all the information...The tips from more experienced riders always make things easier and safer.

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