I know we briefly talked about this before, but how did you finally decide to put in the cedar lining and hide/secure the ends at the top of the chest?
Are those hinges spring loaded, or will you be adding some kind of lid support?
If you're going to get into woodworking deeper (and you can't really resist it at this point....
) I'm sure you already know what you need machine-wise, etc.... but the one thing I'd recommend is getting a turbine HVLP gun and look at some of the newer water-based products for finishing, they are exponentially better than they were just a few years ago. I was NEVER sold on water-based until a recent project where the painting process and finish ended up both being better than using solvent/oil based. Look into products by General Finishes. It would literally take 5 minutes or less to spray that chest and the finish would be dry in a couple of hours. Hit it with their sealer first to raise the grain, harden it, and seal it, then you can put a finish sand on it and go straight to poly, paint, whatever.
How much space do you have to set up "shop"? and what machines do you already have?
I'm learning more and more about finishes all the time. I really like satin finishes for the reasons mentioned above. I will most certainly look into some of the water based products as well as a HVLP gun at some point as well.
The hinges do indeed have a torsion spring in them to keep the lid open. They are made by Rockler. A word of caution if you are thinking of using them. Their calculator is a little off. Basically, you take (the weight of the lid x the depth of the lid)/2 to get how many inch pounds you need. Per their calculations, I needed 205 inch pounds worth of support. I didn't want to put more than three hinges on the chest for aesthetics, so I bought (3) 60 in lb hinges. When I installed them, they wouldn't allow the lid to close all the way. It left about .5" gap. The hinges were too strong. So, I returned them and installed (3) 40 in lb hinges and they work just fine. When the lid is about < 35 degrees, it will close on it's own. It doesn't slam shut by any means, it just closes. However, past 35 degrees and it stays open just fine. Plus, it's just smoother and easier to open than with the 60s on it.
My shop is just my garage. It's a standard two car width, but it's almost two cars deep. It's about 25'x35'. Right now, I'm single so all I have in my garage is my truck, my R1, some lawn equipment and a few other bits. My woodworking gear is all mounted on wheels so I can move it wherever I need to. Typically, I move the table saw, planer, router table, etc. to the front of the garage to minimize the dust. I have dust ports on most pieces that I hook up to my big shop vac. While not a true dust collection system, it works just fine for me. Having the stuff on wheels lets me keep it all in a corner of the garage when I'm not using it. the stuff I use more frequently, like the table saw, miter saw, drill press and sander are near the front of the area, whereas the planer, band saw and oscilating sander are near the back.
My shop (main pieces):
table saw, a couple routers and a router table, band saw, planer, oscilating sander, belt & disc sander, drill press, compound miter saw
nail guns, 23 ga pin nailer (which I think is the coolest tool I own right now), biscuit joiner, mini router/trim router, RO sander, 1/4 sheet sander, belt sander, typical woodworking hand tools (chisels, planes, small hand saws, etc.)
I try to always buy brands like JET, Milwaukee, DeWalt, Bosch. I've got some "lesser" branded stuff too. My planer, for example, is a Ryobi. However, it's about 20 years old and was build when Ryobi's name meant a little more than it does now. It still works just fine for me, so I can't see the need for a new one. It's only 10" wide though. I wish it took wider stock, but I'm still happy with it. I think that the JET tools (table saw and band saw) are def good tools for the money. They are well made and cut very nicely.
A lot of the stuff was my dad's (RIP) and the rest I bought on my own. I know I'm lucky enough to have the tools and also to have had a dad who showed me how to use them as well. I'm also lucky enough to have a girl who appreciates the hours it takes to make something (like this). I say that because some folks have aboslutely no idea what it takes to transform raw lumber into an heirloom chest such as this. I'm hoping that one day my son or her son (assuming we get married) can give this chest to his bride one day. Or I'll just make one for their girls when the time comes.
Oh yeah, the cedar lining. I'm mounting it vertically, it'll come up to the bottom edge of the hinges, leaving some of the raw walnut exposed (on purpose). For the ends of the cedar, I'm just going to run them through the 1/4" roundover bit on the router table. To attach them, I'll shoot a few 23 ga pins in the planks. That way, years down the road if I need to, I can replace them with fresh pieces if she wants me to. The planks are tongue and groove, so a few pins and the T&G will hold them to the walls of the chest just fine. Plus, the exposed rounder edges will have a "hand crafted" look to them as well.
Any other comments or questions?