That stinks, hope you get it all worked out. I think it's pretty rare that any Japanese bike has issues so hopefully it isn't something spread throughout the 2015 models.
Thanks. The word i am getting ( i know a few Yamaha guys), is that this is something they gave seen but are tight lipped. Anything with 150ish hp bone stock should be checked. The 165-170 SHOULD be the base. Most people dont dyno and or check compression. just sayin'....
Every dyno is different man I saw a 10hp difference going down the road to a different shop to see what I put up on their dyno. There are plenty of people on here that have high 170s after tuning. Good advice on checking compression if you are having doubts though.
I agree. But if your starting point IS 150's, its either that specific dyno setup or issues. I was really hoping that it was the dyno. No matter what maps we put on (FTECU) it didnt make a difference. That will be your first clue.
Something else you might want to consider; if you used different maps the power even with a weak slug should still change with different fueling maps. Since the power didn't change with the maps then you might have something else going on. Maybe the dyno is screwed or the maps were not registering in the ECU. Try another bike and see what happens.
Sounds like a leak down test is needed. It will tell you the amount of leakage and will give an idea if the problem is coming from the intake side, exhaust side, or getting past the rings....
Honestly Dynos arent accurate if you think about it. They dont properly simulate the ram air speed forced into the airbox. This is a big factor. I dont know but im quoting a good friend who does dyno testing and is certified from dynojet. He said it best. Unless we have a air system that simulates 175-200mph air induction then honestly we cant have true numbers.
I'm sure you're a great Canadian like me but partner I gotta say if you've never been above 10,000 rpm why are you so concerned with dyno runs and trying to get over 160 hp? You need to ride the bike harder and maybe the number one cylinder might just break back in and give you that extra compression?
Well because 23k for a sportbike should not have compression issues from the get go. To be honest all i want is to tune to its potential, even if its not the number i want. I always take the by the book break-in for JUST SUCH A SCENARIO. They have no ammo to say i did anything out of spec and its only for 1000k, so no biggie.
Also if we wre able to tune it and get increased numbers i would have not said a word. I dont think its too much to ask, that their flagship sportbike, should perform at the highest level, meaning at a minimum "TO SPEC"
You should perform a cylinder leak down test on all 4 to know why #1 is lower.
Air loss into the crankcase is piston/ring issue's. From the top end/intake is valve related.
Knowing what's happening will help you resolve this with warranty issue's.
At the track the mechanics would pour about a teaspoon of motor oil in the cylinder before doing the compression test since the rings can be slightly stuck in the ring land. Did you guys try that?
Keep in mind if youre using synthetic oil its lubricating a lot better. Its possible its just taking more time.
The manual doesnt say not to take it beyond a x rpm. It says not to leave it there for extended periods of time.
And im pretty sure i seen a magazine dyno that was only in the 150 ish area too. Not all dynos read the same. Take into consideration you could be using 15% ethanol fuel. Where i live they dont have to put a sticker on the pumps stating what it is. So i never know what im getting
1- where do you live?
2- Regardless of ethanol composition, what you are buying when you pay for gas is octane. Depending on what octane you purchase 87, 91, or 93 you are getting octane, which is what the engine uses to burn. Gas with ethanol doenst have less octane... It should have the minimum rated octane per the grade required to be sold as per the certification.
If you never knew what you were getting, I suggest going to a different gas station...
You can also perform a specific gravity test on the gasoline if you dont know what octane you are getting or think you are being fooled. its simple chemistry and requires no chemicals.
Compression issues dont just fix themselves. Compression issues mean there is a leak in the cycle... Meaning either Pressure/Air is getting out of the sealed system at the sealed state of the combustion cycle.
They say that you should warm up the engine before you start the compression test. And on a new engine, even with standard oil, the piston rings will still provide good seal even slightly lubricated. You dont need full synthetic oil to get good readings.
My question is who did the compression test?
Did you do the test yourself or did you pay or ask someone else to do it for you?
And what order did you do the cylinders in which order?
when you did the test did you have all the plugs out irregardless of cylinder being tested?
What mods do you have on the bike? or is it completely stock?
It doesnt seem like youre all the familiar with how an engine actually works. The cylinders and rings need time to bed in to each other. The ignition pressure of the air fuel mix forces the rings to seal against the cylinder walls. Oil in the cyliders is what youre supposed to do to perform a compression check. No idea what you mean by using synthetic oil vs reg oil for this test. I think its even in the service manual.
My two cents is not the waste the time on the leak down test. you have a compression test done that indicates a leak. you should still be under warranty on a 2015 R1. So take that sucker to the dealership and have them diagnose it. Story done.
Maybe you didn't break it in HARD enough! It sounds like one of your rings is not seated properly! And, no, there is nothing in the break-in instructions saying that you should baby your engine for the first XXX miles.
I agree. The cylinder/rings might not be completely broken in yet. Sounds like a good excuse to go to a local drag race track and have some good cheap fun! I'd then rerun the compression check again and see if the cylinder is still weak. If it still is low then it is time for the dealer to take over.
My tuner did the compression test. The mods are MWR filter, Akra GP Stinger, M4 (Ti) mid pipe, block offs. The bike is being tested at a Yamaha dealer today. If there IS a issue that cannot be resolved without tearing the engine, i will EXPECT a new crate engine. Besides, i would think the Yamaha Japan engineers, would be very interested in seeing (and taking apart first hand), a new engine model, with less that 800 miles, broken in by the (their) book.
According to some theories, depending on the type of cylinder liner, you may only have about the first 50 miles to seat the rings (since the cylinder cross hatching on some liners will lose its sharp hatch edges very quickly. So, you need high cylinder pressure to seat the rings during the first 50 miles. And, if you don't get it done then, you have lost your chance!
Recourse is new rings, re-hatch the cylinders and try again!
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