I have been looking around trying to set my target AFR for the 2015 R1. I have seen a couple of threads for the previous years but not a lot for the 2015 forward. Sorry if this has been tacled before. Just trying to get a lot of information for myself and everybody that is running autotunes to share what works and what doesn't. I am currently running the dynojet target AFR on my rapid bike. Thanks in advance.
Pretty much followed the dynojet target afr table but tweak the the last to 13. My rapid bike fuel module and mytuning wide gets preset after install to 13.2 all table. so I'm kinda experiment on where to change.
I called every dyne place within around my area and no on wants to even help tune my rapid bike except for a place which us around 2 hours away oneway. so I'm trying to just set may target afr and tune as your ride.
Idle is usually around 14.7 cruising is usually little lower then that the lighter the throttle the higher the afr. It should taper down try something safe like 12.5 or 12.9 like is being recommended and adjust from there. If you go too lean under full throttle or high throttle you can start detonating or knock and I dont think our bikes have knock detection built in to retard the timing like cars do so you will end up slowly or if too lean quickly destroying your motor or melting pistons something unhealthy. Autotune is good for filling in the blanks but for the full throttle power part of the map your better having a really good tuner adjust it and play with the timing that's more where you will see those gains. Sorry I can't help more with the actual afr's I do a lot of turbo car tuning so its much richer then our bikes.
It doesn't matter what you like or how it feels (the combustion in the engine does). How it feels doesn't matter one bit as it will always feel it's best and strongest right before it blows from being too lean. 13.0 thorugh 13.2 is the recognized safe area that makes good power. You can go leaner at lower rpms if you want to save a little gas mileage and still be safe as the load on the engine is less. You can go leaner at higher rpms but you do risk engine damage over time or right away depending on how lean you go. Racers do it all the time, but they rebuild their engines more often.
Ive been banging my head for months with my setup and only recently got into my auto tune table and started changing AFR values. My table was setup originally with mostly zeros and only 13.2 in 5000 rpm and up in 80-100%. I took some of the suggestions in here also and applied the changes. My auto tuner is finally doing its job and cleaning up this bike throughout the rpm and tp range. 4-7k rpm surge and hesitation is gone, and my decel pop has finally decreased substantially. I just added the POD300 this weekend and there are features I have no freakin clue how to use but its a nice add-on item. I would like to really learn to fine tune my setup now that I see how well its working when its set right.
This is my latest AT Target AFR table. I have my At trims set for 20% and will be bringing them down to 18%, 16% 12% 10% etc. I am always looking for more info so if you have a recommendation on changes I am always open to other's suggestions. I plan on taking my bike in soon for a dyno to see how well my bike is tuned and the power output. That should help guide me for really dialing in changes.
This is my latest AT Target AFR table. I have my At trims set for 20% and will be bringing them down to 18%, 16% 12% 10% etc. I am always looking for more info so if you have a recommendation on changes I am always open to other's suggestions. I plan on taking my bike in soon for a dyno to see how well my bike is tuned and the power output. That should help guide me for really dialing in changes.
I figured I should add in what I have:
2016 R1
MWR Race filter
Akrapovic 3/4
PCV
Blockoff Plates
Auto tuner
Pod300
520 Conversion stock gearing
Took the beast out for a test ride after installed the Graves 2.0 Bar radiator cap, and an Auto tune run. I was quite pleased with the AFR points. Decel pop is now gone which was a real shocker. I datalogged my run on the POD300 so tonight I will make some time to analyze. The Weather here has been hot humid and on/off rain. I am hoping to get the bike out next week.
I am running the MWR Race with the plate that I got a good deal on. That is a study done by another filter manufacture and it just says MWR does not say what model. Just like dyno numbers, they vary from dyno to dyno. Those filters are very expensive imo ($199). MWR is also used by race teams so that's not a differentiator with sprint.
I have learned after countless debates for cold air intakes on the ecoboost 3.5 platform just buy what you like. Each vendor did dyno numbers and wow surprise their cai outperformed the other brands on the dyno. I finally purchased one
I liked that had good feedback from other owners. That's the same thing here. I see more good comments on the internet about MWR than I do people slamming their products.
i can say for my bike under 13 is no good after doing a plug change and looking down the cylinder it's full of carbon bad!!! Way to rich if your running good fuel 13.6 is plenty safe.pulls like a animal too
What I'm telling you is NOT my word. It's the word from many people with crossplain Dyno tuning experience. Professional Dyno tuners. Take a look at what Corey posted below. A guy who's been in the business with motorcycles for years.
13.6 with a load on the engine is too lean :fact Unless you're racing and okay rebuilding it. How it pulls doesn't really matter as an engine will always perform better lean...until it pops.
13.0 is my leanest AFR as recommended from tuners like Attack Performance who are not the only professionals who recommended these numbers.
I've experimented with the AFRs myself for over 1 year with a couple of track days and was running a little leaner "well below 13.6 though" and after I started tuning a little richer, my bike actually performs better which is what I was told it would do from the perfessionals I've been in contact with.
13.6 with a load on the engine is too lean :fact Unless you're racing and okay rebuilding it. How it pulls doesn't really matter as an engine will always perform better lean...until it pops.
Word of advice thowe all 3/4 slip on systems leak for this bike which will have your sensor reading leaner than what you are that's a fact I was running in the 12.8 12.9 range and was carboned to shit and I run shell and vp small engine fuel non ethanol every 5 tanks
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