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Dyno Tuning w/FTECU

10K views 30 replies 7 participants last post by  bbsteinnewyork 
#1 ·
First my mods
2015 R1

FTECU bike side flash kit with autoblipper (Graves Cat-Delete US map)
Graves 3/4 exhaust
93 octane
Sprint P08 air filter
520 chain conversion -1 front ---stock rear
Graves smog block off plates

Original dyno before chain conversion and filter upgrage was 181whp on a mobile dyno unit seeming accurate with a 2013 R1 full exhaust flash and filter doing 160 same day @72 degrees F

I now work at a shop with an in house dyno that generally reads approximately 10% low across the board on all bikes tested

Same tune with new air filter and chain conversion @ 50 degrees F (I know it's cold)
Produced 161whp showing fairly lean conditions on AFR from 14-15 throughout powerband
I then loaded the unrestricted map in and saw a 4whp gain and AFR more averaging 14 and sometimes dipping into upper 13
I proceeded to add fuel to the unrestricted map until my AFR was close to 13.1 throughout the entire powerband, but saw a slight decrease (.3) in top whp (165) and only gains in whp at between 9.5-11k rpm. Seeing that a 10% lower reading on our in house dyno compared to other dynos is the average... I can add approx 16 to this number to get starting 177whp with the graves tune and 182whp with the unrestricted(untouched) tune.

I tell this story to see if anyone has any experience tuning the 15'R1 and what they have used to gain more power, since adding fuel to get target AFR not only didn't gain, but actually slightly decreased in certain spots in the higher RPM range.



*** Unrestricted file is untouched shelf map-----*****Custom is richened to get the target at near 13 AFR------*****
 

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#11 ·
If you have access to a dyno, you should either install a Power Commander and fine-tune the file, then translate the Power Commander values into the ECU tune, or install FTECU's new ActiveTune system, and let it do its work. This bike has so much power that hitting a max number is far less important than having a smooth bike with great power throughout the rev range, along with great throttle transition behavior and smooth quickshifts.

With my '16 M, custom tuned by 2 Wheel Dynoworks (and prior to ActiveTune), my bike made 181 (I think) at the rear wheel with the stock RS10 installed. That's in western washington just barely above sea level, FWIW.
 
#15 ·
ok...check this out.... 2muchblue just posted on another thread. check out his lambda readings! very cool indeed !!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQ1gR6GLP0Q&feature=youtu.be&ab_channel=tarour1nori
Cool video! I don't think the richer top end is helping him out though...I have topped out my bike as well (on street) with the graves map running considerably lean. Graves map redline is approx 14.2k and I have a -1 front sprocket. Top speed at redline on dash for me is 189mph. I ran this map with the same redline of 14.2k on the dyno, and the dyno speed says 183mph so it's off a little bit. No big deal there. I will do another pull soon with the raised unrestricted redline of 14.5k and I expect the dash to read about 193 and the actual wheel speed at about 187mph on the dyno.
 
#22 ·
Leaner AFR results in higher temperatures as the mixture is combusted. Generally, normally-aspirated spark-ignition (SI) gasoline engines produce maximum power just slightly rich of stoichiometric. However, in practice it is kept between 12:1 and 13:1 in order to keep exhaust gas temperatures in check and to account for variances in fuel quality. This is a realistic full-load AFR on a normally-aspirated engine but can be dangerously lean with a highly-boosted engine.

https://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/airfuel_ratio_tuning_rich_vs_lean
 
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