Removing ABS Modulator? - Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums

Yamaha R1 + R1M Tech & Performance Chat Discuss the technical aspects and performance of the Yamaha R1 / R1M and modifications.

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post #1 of 87 (permalink) Old 12-12-2016, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Removing ABS Modulator?

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Has anyone figured out how to remove the ABS modulator without incurring other electronics problems or error codes? If you have please share how to do this? Thank You

Clayton Potter
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post #2 of 87 (permalink) Old 12-12-2016, 07:33 PM
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Yes. But it's classified.
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post #3 of 87 (permalink) Old 12-13-2016, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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Okay then - appears no one on this forum is willing to talk about this or has explored what is required to make this modification.

So has anyone disassembled an ABS Modulator unit? Can the electronics be separated from the modulator unit without damage?

Does anyone know what happens to the electronics functions if the ABS unit is unplugged? Does it simply produce codes or is system function status changed or degraded?

Has anyone looked into the ABS Modulator connection status when plugged in - ohm'ed out the connector pins - power on. Is the ECU or IMU simply expecting a open, closed, a specific resistance or voltage value from one or more the ABS Modulator connector pins? If that is the case, I'll can make a connection terminator to replicate those values and remove the brick.

I guess my R1 is going to be the experimental bike that finds out what happens when attempting to remove the brick from the bike without disrupting the rest of the electronic functions. I'll source a spare ECU, IMU and Modulator before going too far. Unintended things can happen doing this sort of work.

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post #4 of 87 (permalink) Old 12-13-2016, 09:40 PM
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A quick search of this forum will reveal this question asked and answered. The bike will throw several error codes if you simply unplug the controller. I don't recall the exact threads but they're here.

Most people just run straight lines, plug the openings in the ABS controller with some 10x1mm screws, and leave the controller in place. This is probably what I'll do when I remove the ABS this winter.

If you're serious about separating the electronics of the ABS controller from the actual controller itself you could try the racers at Superbike Unlimited. I can't remember his name but I talked to him at one of the CCS races earlier this year. He said he removed the electronics from the controller, kept them plugged in, and kept the rest of the bike's electronics from complaining. They might be able to give you some tips.
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post #5 of 87 (permalink) Old 12-14-2016, 10:15 PM
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YouTube STG he shows some great videos !!

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post #6 of 87 (permalink) Old 12-18-2016, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cartmen34 View Post
If you're serious about separating the electronics of the ABS controller from the actual controller itself you could try the racers at Superbike Unlimited. I can't remember his name but I talked to him at one of the CCS races earlier this year. He said he removed the electronics from the controller, kept them plugged in, and kept the rest of the bike's electronics from complaining.
Thanks Cartmen - that is the path I've explored at this point.

FWIW - the unit weighs about 4 lbs with all of the associated hardware. That doesn't include the lines.

I have successfully separated the plastic electronics module from the heavy abs solenoid block. Static power on, engine on, running in gear checks revealed no new error codes on the dash. We have 10" of snow so a test ride is not possible.

I have a perfect unmolested ABS unit on hand for back to back comparision testing.

Track testing will have to wait until after the new year at Jennings GP.

It might seem a lot of work at this point but if it works then it is certainly worth it. If it proves to be a viable solution - I'll post up pictures of the whole process and share with the forum. It's too early for that just yet, should it prove a dead end. If it proves a solid solution, I'll write up and document the process to simplify the instructions.

At this point nothing has been done that can't be returned to original if all the parts are saved and kept together.

Cheers

Clayton Potter
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post #7 of 87 (permalink) Old 12-18-2016, 08:28 AM
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Thanks in advance for keeping us up to date on your progress. If that works I'm sure we'd all be very interested to see how you did it.
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post #8 of 87 (permalink) Old 12-18-2016, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayton Potter View Post
I have successfully separated the plastic electronics module from the heavy abs solenoid block. Static power on, engine on, running in gear checks revealed no new error codes on the dash. We have 10" of snow so a test ride is not possible.
You won't throw a code. You've done it correctly. Now simply make a plate to cover those floats(tighten it down snug, the existing rubber gasket will seal it) and you're set. If you have any questions, just PM me.

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Last edited by Flexxx; 12-18-2016 at 04:19 PM.
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post #9 of 87 (permalink) Old 12-18-2016, 04:04 PM
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Im very surprised it can't be corrected via a flash of the ecu. must be something to do with abs being mandated on bikes in many countries.

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post #10 of 87 (permalink) Old 12-18-2016, 04:11 PM
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I think you misread Randy, there won't be code issues.

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post #11 of 87 (permalink) Old 12-18-2016, 04:20 PM
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well I mean if you want to take all of it out without having to leave something plugged into the wiring harness.
if I were racing I wouldn't care about the abs light being on anyway. so kind of strange for anyone that's racing to care about that.

or is it messing with the TC?
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post #12 of 87 (permalink) Old 12-18-2016, 04:29 PM
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He's asking about the ABS modulator specifically. When the process is done correctly, there are no error codes and the weight of the ABS system is appropriately removed. Yes, part has to remain plugged in as it controls many other aspects than just ABS, but the reasoning for doing the full ABS removal(weight) is achieved clean and clear.

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post #13 of 87 (permalink) Old 01-21-2017, 07:04 PM
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YART sells a ABS dongle where you remove the ABS unit completly. It's not on their web site but you send an email or call for to order. office@yart.at +43 664 5101 938
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post #14 of 87 (permalink) Old 01-21-2017, 10:10 PM
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YART sells a ABS dongle where you remove the ABS unit completly. It's not on their web site but you send an email or call for to order. office@yart.at +43 664 5101 938
That dongle is also $500+... I'll pass.

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post #15 of 87 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
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well I mean if you want to take all of it out without having to leave something plugged into the wiring harness.
if I were racing I wouldn't care about the abs light being on anyway. so kind of strange for anyone that's racing to care about that.

or is it messing with the TC?
wheel speeds are an important part of the traction controll system and they are processed through the abs ecu.

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post #16 of 87 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 11:47 AM
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wheel speeds are an important part of the traction controll system and they are processed through the abs ecu.

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So does that mean that the TC system also controls the rear wheel speed via the brakes? In other words when it sees the rear wheel spinning faster than the front does it apply the rear brake via the ABS controller to get the rear wheel speed under control? Or does it simply tell the throttle to let off a bit?
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post #17 of 87 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 12:11 PM
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No, the wheel speed sensors signals goes through the ABS ecu to the ECM. By removing the ABS ecu the ECM will not receive wheel speed signals. The TC is retarding the ignition and eventually starts cutting the ignition when the wheel speed difference is over a certain limit. IMU is also controlling the TC
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post #18 of 87 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayton Potter View Post

...

I have successfully separated the plastic electronics module from the heavy abs solenoid block. Static power on, engine on, running in gear checks revealed no new error codes on the dash. We have 10" of snow so a test ride is not possible.

...
FYI I made a personal visit to the guys at Superbike Unlimited this weekend. They showed me one of the ABS units they've taken apart and installed in one of their race bikes. Besides the black plastic piece that the electronics plug into they also said there were a bunch of spring loaded wires that they had to remove from the module to keep the electonics working. They also said that they had to make a water-tight plastic box to keep those wires in, otherwise the electronics will go nuts if they get wet from rain or washing, or whatever.

I've not taken my unit apart yet. I bought a used one dirt cheap to play around with. That way I can keep my original ABS module whole and can simply plug it back into the bike if I decide to go back to ABS.

The guys at Superbike Unlimited also said that for your average trackday rider simply unbolting the lines from the module and plugging the holes in the ABS with some bolts would be more than sufficient. He said that it was a lot of trouble to take the module apart and unless you're looking to save every ounce it is easier to simply leave the module in place.

I'm still debating how much effort I want to put into this. I'll wait and see how hard the module is to take apart once the used one arrives.
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post #19 of 87 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 12:41 PM
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This is how we do it, make a lid, drill a hole for the connector, put some shrink tube on the connectors. Can't remember it was complicated to do this. In the picture you can see the lid beneath the battery
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post #20 of 87 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 01:22 PM
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No, the wheel speed sensors signals goes through the ABS ecu to the ECM. By removing the ABS ecu the ECM will not receive wheel speed signals. The TC is retarding the ignition and eventually starts cutting the ignition when the wheel speed difference is over a certain limit. IMU is also controlling the TC
Cool. Thanks for the info JJ!
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