Keeping it simple. - Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums

Yamaha R1 + R1M Tech & Performance Chat Discuss the technical aspects and performance of the Yamaha R1 / R1M and modifications.

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 06:40 AM Thread Starter
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Keeping it simple.

For while I've been kicking around the idea of eliminating my cat, flashing the ECU, and getting bottom race fairing.

Trying hard to weigh pros and cons, I actually like the stock can so I decided long ago not to even bother buying a different one.
However the cat is a bit of an eye sore on the bike the only piece that seems out of place.

Originally I wanted the power gain, restriction removed, fan on temp adj, ya know all the nice ECU flash perks.

After 18Kmi and just over a year of owning it I decided it runs perfectly fine. Plenty of power on hand and I've gotten used to the touchy throttle & accompanied engine brake.

Still the cat..

So now I still want the Lower race fairing at the very least to cover up the cat but I havnt seen any R1's with both, I don't even know if it'll work..



Anyone have experience with different lower fairing's. can let me know if any will work on stock upper fairing and stock exhaust?


Last edited by 8thvision; 02-16-2017 at 07:05 AM.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 01:18 PM
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...like you said, simple.

lose the cat = must get the bike tuned, end of story. what you seem to be wrestling with is the philosophy behind the mods youd inevitably make. id tell them tune it for feel, not necessarily max power. smooth out the throttle etc.

as for bodywork, just look thru all the makers that we all now know of, and choose. if theres still one that isnt doing it for you, get the closest and then have a shop mock/glass up something thats more to your tastes. keep oil changes in mind. mid pipe steel, nothing fancy, saw a perfectly good one on this site somewhere for like 150. welding is not worth it, and your bike looks like the non-S model so that means titanium headers which you cant weld to steel midpipe. itll braise or whatever that word is, but not a proper weld and isnt to be trusted. all this per the badass welding guys where i work, at an aerospace shop. so yeah.

lose those tires, what is this i dont even.. Q3 sir. Q3. youll want the front 2mm lower to the ground relative to stock, when using Q3 due to differences in tire diameter.

just my .02, but yeah if you lose the cat AND run a good midpipe thats nicely tucked up there, unlike some bikes on here ive seen, you really dont need a bellypan and can spend that money on the forks instead =]

if youve got 18,000 miles on yours then i bet you didnt have the forks serviced yet? new fork oil etc? should be done about every 5k =P
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by planetbuster View Post
...like you said, simple.

lose the cat = must get the bike tuned, end of story. what you seem to be wrestling with is the philosophy behind the mods youd inevitably make. id tell them tune it for feel, not necessarily max power. smooth out the throttle etc.

as for bodywork, just look thru all the makers that we all now know of, and choose. if theres still one that isnt doing it for you, get the closest and then have a shop mock/glass up something thats more to your tastes. keep oil changes in mind. mid pipe steel, nothing fancy, saw a perfectly good one on this site somewhere for like 150. welding is not worth it, and your bike looks like the non-S model so that means titanium headers which you cant weld to steel midpipe. itll braise or whatever that word is, but not a proper weld and isnt to be trusted. all this per the badass welding guys where i work, at an aerospace shop. so yeah.

lose those tires, what is this i dont even.. Q3 sir. Q3. youll want the front 2mm lower to the ground relative to stock, when using Q3 due to differences in tire diameter.

just my .02, but yeah if you lose the cat AND run a good midpipe thats nicely tucked up there, unlike some bikes on here ive seen, you really dont need a bellypan and can spend that money on the forks instead =]

if youve got 18,000 miles on yours then i bet you didnt have the forks serviced yet? new fork oil etc? should be done about every 5k =P
Looks like I may have to remove the cat to use any aftermarket belly pan.

The PR4's have treated me well for not being the stickiest tire around, I commute a lot on my bike. Lots of highway use was burning through stickies. as it stands
I have a set of super corsas sv 2's at home I am able to swap for weekend twisties.

I had no idea Forks were supposed to be serviced so often. I follow the service manual pretty closely and didn't even not it. Its extra sad cause I work at a yamaha dealer, Ill talk to the service guys about it. I suppose it is possible they did it for one of my service's.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 11:08 AM
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Lose those tires, what is this i dont even...
Nothing wrong with running ST tires on a SS bike. I've seen it done plenty around here. They can handle anything short of full-on track days, and even then there were a couple of 'B' Group riders hooning around Thunderhill on them last summer.

Quote:
New fork oil etc? should be done about every 5k =P
Too soon. Every 10k is fine.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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Nothing wrong with running ST tires on a SS bike. I've seen it done plenty around here. They can handle anything short of full-on track days, and even then there were a couple of 'B' Group riders hooning around Thunderhill on them last summer.



Too soon. Every 10k is fine.

Service techs here are telling me between 23k - 30k for fork service.

I havnt checked manual yet.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 12:40 PM
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well, theres what the manual says, which is just enough to prevent things from corroding.. and then theres max performance, then theres somewhere in between where most human beings are.

every 5k is what ppl like the racetech guys, dave moss, etc will tell you, and they often do. meanwhile ive seen with my eyeballs forks that got serviced for the very first time at like 22k miles and the insides looked a bit gross. thats alot of crap floating around in that oil, lemme tell ya.

this thing that some crews do with the sand paper on the fork tubes, claiming that the super fine little scratches it makes holding oil.. im not sold on that. but one thing is for sure, waiting anywhere near recommended intervals from the manual probly isnt best based on the simple fact that the oil gets sketchy long before then. 15k miles max id say is safe but thats assuming no track days and no hard braking which is hard enough to near-bottom the forks.

anyway, about the bellypan.. its a simple fix but with no solution. its 100% subjective and there either exists a bellypan made by whoever that you like the look of, or not. but the idea behind it i think merits further thought. why even put one on there? its always for looks, bellypans dont really serve any practical function.. on a track that is. youre not going in a straight line for nearly long enough period of time for aerodynamics to be a thing. i think the trick here is to find a mid pipe that doesnt look like shit, and THATS the way to handle this.

spending hundreds on a bellypan often seems to solve a problem that one only has after doing their exhaust and deciding it looks like shit. bellypan = solution for problem you should avoid anyway.

check the grey R1 thread about that thing i mentioned where some bikes look like shit from the side/3-4th view due to the midpipe riding kinda low, leaving a big gap. ewwww haha looks like hell, IMO
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 12:55 PM
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haha found it, heres the post which outlines the above..

2016 Matte grey R1 thread
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by planetbuster View Post
well, theres what the manual says, which is just enough to prevent things from corroding.. and then theres max performance, then theres somewhere in between where most human beings are.

every 5k is what ppl like the racetech guys, dave moss, etc will tell you, and they often do. meanwhile ive seen with my eyeballs forks that got serviced for the very first time at like 22k miles and the insides looked a bit gross. thats alot of crap floating around in that oil, lemme tell ya.

this thing that some crews do with the sand paper on the fork tubes, claiming that the super fine little scratches it makes holding oil.. im not sold on that. but one thing is for sure, waiting anywhere near recommended intervals from the manual probly isnt best based on the simple fact that the oil gets sketchy long before then. 15k miles max id say is safe but thats assuming no track days and no hard braking which is hard enough to near-bottom the forks.
Point(s) taken. To address them in reverse, lol, the reasoning behind knocking down the scratches on the inner chrome tube is to smooth out any minor nicks caused by small road debris (kicked up by the front tire, or from a vehicle just ahead), that could possibly cut the fork seals. I've seen ultra fine-grit sandpaper, steel wool, emery cloth and even small oil stones used for this. Any damage deeper than that will require fork disassembly and seal replacement.

If you clicked on the link I provided when I replied to 8thvision, you would have seen that it was from an Motorcyclistonline article written by Mr. Moss himself. You are absolutely correct about fork oil becoming nasty, and it doesn't even need to be a sportbike...think about how much stroke a motocross or ADV bike's fork has. As stated in the article, the mere action of the springs rubbing the insides of the fork tubes results in oil contamination that, left unchecked, can possibly affect your valving. But that's in extreme cases of neglect.

With the exceptions of the times he's unavailable, Dave is pretty much my go-to guy when it comes to tuning my suspension, and has been for years. I've never heard him mention the 5k figure to me; at the very least 7k on a streetbike is more realistic. Funny you mention 22k miles...that's about the mileage on my 2011 750 trackbike had when I bought it as a salvage last year, and one of the first things I did was a full service. This included fresh fork oil. The owner had never attended to this and I was present when my tech opened it up. He said the smell was so bad he had to turn on his bench fan lol.

PS: I had the pleasure of not only the company of Dave Moss but also one Mike Canfield, both of them seated at the very same table is I was at the last AFM Banquet this past January 21st.

Last edited by Hooli; 02-17-2017 at 02:40 PM.
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