From Dave Moss on a new 2015 R1 as he sets up the suspension for a rider.
Points to note: The fork is stiff - ends up at full soft settings on the street. Also the tire pressures too hard as delivered for these RS10 Bridgestones.
Good things to consider and I'm personally glad he wrote this all as just bouncing the bike in the shop it was exactly what I was thinking. Still cant wait to ride this thing!!!
Very interesting, thanks for sharing. I have Dave Moss' tuning DVD, and set up my very not stock FZ1 using his methods.
Considering I'm 215lbs, and stock forks are usually way soft, I'm pretty happy that the front is too stiff for a 185lber. It means they will probably be perfect for me. After putting down all that money, it's refreshing to know I won't have to pull the forks off and put new spring and valving in them right away.
I'm interested to see if the shock will be too soft though. I usually have to jack up the preload on stock shocks so much to get preload right that it overwhelms the shocks rebound damping capabilities. Until I go aftermarket it's usually a compromise between too much sag or a shock that pogos.
I can't say for sure that the spring rate in the front is too high for me at 180lbs. I'm guessing they are 1.0kg/mm. Would be nice to know. However the damping is quite high and that's where the stiff feeling comes from. Just a guess since I haven't even ridden it. My guess again would be Dave moss reducing fork oil level and viscosity. Dave never is happy it seems though. He loves to play with everything
I can't figure how did he get the 32 mm front sag at the start because it is 28 by my maths but interesting info never the less. For most part the bikes come with the springs way too soft so that is the good change.
I'm 205 lbs and the front forks were too soft for me on track even as stiff as we could set the forks to. I'm having the springs replaced. This is actually the first I've heard of someone saying the front is stiff on these bikes, unless we're talking about an R1M? I know the front forks on the M electronic suspension are almost 10% stiffer. But for Street use I can see the front forks being perfect on the regular R1.
The rear shock was actually okay on track with the stock spring.
I am 192lb (87kg) and to date every bike I had was too soft out of factory and needed new springs. That's why I was excited that this one was a bit stiffer and would save the expense.
On this note does anyone know of a person or company that is making stiffer springs for these new stock KYB forks? As I previously stated I'm having stiffer springs put in, but we're having a tough time finding someone who has made them for these "all new" KYB's.
There would be hardly anything special about the springs in these new forks. Check with Race-Tech rep and I am sure they will have something already or in the pipes shortly.
I'm a little confused here because I can't see how they could have made this mistake. The
maximum clicks out on Rebound are 14 and Compression 23. I don't know where they came up with the below figures.
I was in the middle of applying these setting until I found out they don't exist.
Chassis changes:
Fork height +7mm, preload full soft, rebound 27 clicks out from maximum, compression 25 clicks out from maximum.
After my trackday I can say that the springs in the fork seem soft and had no trouble blowing through the stroke during braking. I think I was about 15mm left to the axle casting on the fork leg. I think next time I'll try some more compression damping from the stock setting. I was reluctant to increase the comp as the track was bumpy and it felt stiff in some spots as it was. I think the high speed comp in the fork via the shims is stiff. And fork spring rate of 0.9 kg/mm is prob right.
Anyone else get the tail wagging on braking??
Hmmm.....the service-manual describes the fork height - page 4-88.
Manual says 2 lines has to be visiable on the fork tube, but my bike was delivered with only 1 line visiable.
So it might be too high set from the factory.
Mine has two lines showing and feels a little slow to steer. I only have 100 miles on it, but I'm very open to dropping the yokes once I get some miles on it. This bike is weird for me in that it takes some effort to get it to start turning, but bar pressures when cranked over are light and it takes little effort to change line while heeled over.
Hmmm. Mine was set at 2 lines. Tire pressures were too high of course. Going to check/set sag this weekend. 520 chain swap and 2 up in back ended up extending the wheelbase a bit over 1/4 inch so I'll be curious to see what if any compensation is needed there.
I'm new to the R1. Is the electronic steering damper similar to the Honda CBR1K in that it increases damping with bike velocity? I just Flashed the bike and left the steering damper 'ON'. Recommendations on turning it 'OFF'? Realizing of course that most people go to the aftermarket at some point anyway.
BTW, that manual is just a bit under $100. I think I'm building my dealers retirement fund
Mine is set at 2 lines as well. Adding teeth to the back sprocket shortens the wheelbase not extends it.
The steering damper is speed dependent and it has a map that can be edited to suit your riding. It provides more stability at high speed but in the fast corners it could get hairy as the bike can be very hard to turn so for the track work you will need to edit it. I would not recommend switching it off altogether because a bad experience with Gixer that went into a tankslapper at 90km/h going through double railway crossing :scared
I got an Australian manual for $60 from a dealer. Just over 67Mb. If someone knows how to link it for a download I am happy to share it.
hey thanks man for the manual. works great. :boobies
as per your question on number of lines showing on the fork...the 4-88 manual diagram looks like two lines showing but on my bike its one line. I don't count the fork cap as a line. Here is a pic of mine showing as delivered 1 line showing.
btw after riding the bike on track I can see no reason to lower the front anymore than stock 1 line. Not any time soon for me anyways...
wonder why they lowered the front on the r1m?? Maybe the bigger rear tire has some influence. Or the spring rates of the Ohlins. Interesting either way.
Yeah, so much for manual. It is a dud:fact In both cases it refers to position "A" showing the same picture. Remember that manuals are written by people who can translate the language not the tech info.
The confusion on the manual settings and Dave's settings is probably because the clickers will go past -14 on rebound for sure as I had mine at -17 before I realized I went past the max. Dave probable just kept cranking looking for the limit. Probably doesn't do much past 14 though.
That doesn't make sense. You count the clicks out from fully closed and there is a hard stop once the valve is fully open so you can not just "go past". Either there are different valves or his maths gone wrong.
Lol, I'm coming off a K1300S after years of racing dirt and road (retired) and I can state that this bike turns like a Ferrari; that K1300s? Turned like a semi truck by comparison.
I'm pretty old and broken at 48 with plenty of past injuries coming back to haunt me.
If you haven't had sciatica yet....just wait you're in for a treat. :icon_eek:
Hi guys, I've recently had my suspension done at Motologic, Melbourne Australia, who they currently racing in ASBK (Australian Superbike), I thought I could share you my suspension set up both road and Phillip Island ready.
I know ur on the upside down side of earth but seriously your tech used the from open or soft method instead of the from closed method. Ie ur settings make little sense as others will have different end points as stated above. I prob would count the settings to close and repost those
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