so what are you guys running your fork height at in the tripple? I know the R1 has 1 line showing stock and the M is 2?
I am told by my nagging brother that Mike Fitzgerald (aka thermosman) from Ohlins usa is telling R1 owners the fork needs to be flush to raise the front on this bike. anyone run it like this and how did it make the bike handle?
Your nagging brother is right. Keep the rear at stock height & raise the front as high as you can get it. R1 forks are 740mm & r1m forks are 750mm. We run ours at 760mm but you can't get yours that high.
Raising the front stops the bike feeling nervous out of the corners.
Lee
Dave Moss dropped the front of mine and it significantly improved. He told me when he rode mine he needed the front brake to get it to turn nicely (intentionally initiating a decreasing radius turn basically) and the rear was left alone, although I only weigh 150.
All you guys that keep doing the same shit we all did to the 09-14 are wrong. Though I have noticed lately that the forks seem set at different heights.. Now that mines been stolen I've been back to the dealer a couple times and I'm quite sure I see some fork tubes sticking up significantly higher than they were on mine before Dave adjusted it.
My set up data came from a team that have already won a championship on the 2015r1. I appreciate that what works for 1 doesn't necessarily work for another but all the race teams in the uk & pata Yamaha have all applied the same science, raise the front to 760mm & leave the stock height alone. They have however put a different linkage in the rear that changes the feeling from a road bike into a superbike.
Lee
I kept mine at 1-line showing, while raising the TTX GP shock 4mm (319mm total). Initially setup sag for 38mm and had a hell of a time steering it.
Talked to a friend of mine, who dropped the front by an extra line (2 lines showing) and said it improved steering. As a test, he suggested I lower my sag. I went to 42mm of sag and the handling improved drastically. I plan on raising the shock an additional 2mm and see if that helps so I don't have to drop the front further.
My point is... try it. I don't know what some race teams are doing, but I know lowering the front relative to the rear improved things a lot for me.
I'm pretty sure SBU is running the same NIX30/TTX GP that I have and here's a pic of their bike with 3 lines showing, FWIW. Maybe they or others can chime in.
If it works for you then it's all good. No-one can ride lorenzo's bike except the man himself as his geometry is the total opposite to all the other m1's.
I kept mine at 1-line showing, while raising the TTX GP shock 4mm (319mm total). Initially setup sag for 38mm and had a hell of a time steering it.
Talked to a friend of mine, who dropped the front by an extra line (2 lines showing) and said it improved steering. As a test, he suggested I lower my sag. I went to 42mm of sag and the handling improved drastically. I plan on raising the shock an additional 2mm and see if that helps so I don't have to drop the front further.
My point is... try it. I don't know what some race teams are doing, but I know lowering the front relative to the rear improved things a lot for me.
I'm pretty sure SBU is running the same NIX30/TTX GP that I have and here's a pic of their bike with 3 lines showing, FWIW. Maybe they or others can chime in.
This is the problem with the 2015r1. It's sat on its nose with a short wheel base to suit & this gives it the twitchiness on corner exit. I found an aftermarket steering damper helped but raising the front made it less nervous & give more confidence in the front. The other thing is that my front tyre wears better now & I don't get the tear I was suffering
Lee
the light front end doesn't bother me at all. my brother is basically saying that the bike behaves too twitchy in turn in and mid corner. which I also don't think so. I'm so used to a R6 and this thing feels just like one to me. he's used to being around a GSXR that has to have extensions on the forks to make it handle and thinks the r1 needs it also.
I'm at stock height in the front with the rear raised 5mm on the shock length. It seems to be working well for me so far and is still very stable but turns in way better than stock.
What I know is that with the 09-14s you had to raise the front end as much as you can to get the bike to steer responsively, granted the stock setup was the forks sitting almost flush with the triple anyway. With the new R1, given the shorter wheelbase (and all other changes including the shorter suspension linkage mentioned by lee) you'd think you wouldn't need to raise the front that much, but experience dictates otherwise. I would go in the direction of lee's advice and take it from there, assuming you haven't found your sweet spot yet.
We found that with the 14b you raised the front & rear for clearence but more so the rear to shorten the rake. We also had the problem of the headstock flexing & the front wheel hitting the radiator. Then came the 2010 headstock strengthened frame that he won everything on until it was banned from Bsb.
I have contacts within bsb & wsbk Yamaha teams & they are all using the same set up.
Lee
I'm working with a lad in TSGB on a 2015 R1 running K-Tech, His baseline sage were 35F/30R, stock shock length, stock fork height. Sags change according to circuit/weather alongside damping. But generally at his level he is over the moon with how the bike handles, there is no Data being used obviously at this level and I have heard people saying the R1 likes to be on its ass and that is probably partly down to the large power of the engine, however a lot of people are like sheep and follow blindly without trying to see what they are comfortable with to begin which is the whole point of a baseline setup.
If you don't mind messaging me with the changes and what you found riding it that way, we have no tyre wear issues, ever...and I always get it using good travel.
Raising the front takes the weight off so in turn less wear & less heat. The down side for some is that it makes the steering slower. The upside is that you can brake later & harder.
Lee
You setup the forks and shock for YOUR type of riding. Track setups are usually not good for the roads and vice versa. Find a setup that works well aka making you feel comfortable at the speed, including acceleration braking turnin exit and mid corner. Tell everybody else to Fawk off especially family.
how many lines showing is kinda besides the point, you have to compare apples to apples. its best to just straight up measure how much, in inches or millimeters, of the tubes are sticking out, plain and simple. and even just by eyeballing it, i can tell that pic is significantly more than stock height. whens last time you were in a dealership and looking at the showroom bikes?
granted, the body/frame of the bike itself could very well be at stock height cuz maybe the total available travel of THAT fork on THAT bike in the pic is less.. it all plays, but the bottom line is that VISUALLY the nose of that bike in that pic is gonna be a few mm closer to the ground than a stock bike.
again, need apples to apples, double check your data points to make sure comparing same thing? little rings on outside of fork tubes dont mean much.. hell, theyre not even all the same distance or otherwise standardised in any way. silly =P
Depends on the rider too if you sit more upright when cornering with your weight more in the center of the bike yeah go ahead and drop the front a little I raised mine cause I put my weight more to the front head in front of faring pretty much
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