yeah you need your suspension done, how are ppl not clued into that stuff these days..
that ran-down area just to the side of the center of the tire is from you getting on the gas and the rear is probly collapsing under you a little, your weight is making the tire do some of the suspension work.
only one thing really determines what pressure you set your tires at, and thats temperature. check temps with one of those infrared things, the general numbers on all this stuff are well known these days, do the reading, as did we all.
make sure front and rear sag are set, which will probly involve putting preload IN rather than taking it out, based on how much you weigh, you big bastard =] any trackday is gonna have some kinda suspension guy, figure out who knows their shit and step up with your 30 bucks or whatever and get it handled, then continue to fine tune blahblah. jesus. that tire is good for one more weekend at the most cuz on the worn area, itll spin, then as you lean over more it gets 'good' again.. kinda screwy.
use cheaper tires like bstone S21's or something to sort out your shit maybe? usually those little bits on the tire that wipe right off with your hand, like what you see close to the edges, are from the tire not being hot enough but at your weight and with you rolling on the gas like that, clearly other shit needs fiddling first =]
The RS10's like higher pressure and they don't loose grip because if it. But that's a quick fix and as others have said you pretty much have to do the suspension on this bike with the RS10 tires.
That's not true, didn't you guys read my post about this? I took my R1 to the man himself and let him have it for 2 weeks.. With brand new Q3's on it. Per the slightly different tire sizes he dropped the front 2mm. It needed it anyway, front end was too high from the factory for some reason.
well most suspension folks are saying the bike needs to be raised in the front by a lot. some teams are using fork extensions. so he might not be "the man" to listen to.
I've found running lower pressure help with what appears to be cold tearing. You need more heat in the tire. Try running 28 psi. How hot was it that day?
And yes, the RS10 is very particular about the right temp. You can run Q3s at whatever and they do well.
Interesting...so the first pic is of my tire on a day where it was cloudy and the temp was 75 degrees and I was running 31psi. Obviously, I ruined the tire.
The next pic is of a track day where I ran the tires (brand new RS10) at 28 psi and the temp was sunny and 95 degrees. Notice the tire held up much better.
Interesting...so the first pic is of my tire on a day where it was cloudy and the temp was 75 degrees and I was running 31psi. Obviously, I ruined the tire.
The next pic is of a track day where I ran the tires (brand new RS10) at 28 psi and the temp was sunny and 95 degrees. Notice the tire held up much better. View attachment 888594
Yeah the way it was explained to me is that the very edge of the tire is fine as you are leaned over to the max angle, but when you start to pick the bike up from the turn you start to roll on gas and because the tire is not hot enough, getting on the power causes the wheel to slip and tear the tread. Again, I've never had this issue with any of the Dunlops I've run (Q1, Q2, or Q3s).
Bhansen pretty much said it your tires doing that because your pace is slow your not heating up the tire evenly your going slow threw the corner then nailing the throttle on the way out.brake later and deeper into the turn till the front tells you that's all it can handle the roll on the the throttle don't crack it
i've had the same thing happen to my RS10's on track. Bike had ohlins fitted an sprung to my weight. I replaced the RS10's after 3 track days with Pirelli Super corsa SC, problem solved. Even took 5 seconds off my lap time
incorrect. raising it increases your trail and you think its better when in fact youre trading one thing for another. you guys that are fast, if youre having stability problems such as the bike feeling like it wants to pivot around the steering stem, yeah, thats caused by rebound. just one example of how suspension is 99% of it, all of it. stop raising the bike which slows down the steering, causing you to have to be more retarded with the brakes which you then raise the bike more to 'fix' etcetc.. this thing should feel like a 600 and if yours dont, your shit is set up wrong.
the rake/trail from the factory is pretty middle of the road.. it makes no sense to raise it further still, youre really causing the bike to chopper out, to borrow a phrase. just cuz a bunch of amateur racers are doing what they always did doesnt make it correct..
also, sounds like some ppl are forgetting the RS10 is a race tire. its a DoT legal race tire (meaning ok to use it wherever, street etc) but its still a race tire. it needs to be hot. it wont get hot if your starting pressure is too high. raise your hand if youre fast enough to need race tires but you dont know anything about the correlation between hot pressure gain and tire performance. jesus.
but maybe after another 10 times someone posts a pic of their chewed up rear tire ppl will start catching on.. and oh whaddaya know, that guy right up there ran LOWER pressure with probly the same or similar suspension settings and, MAGIC!#$% his tire wear was much better. haha
The rs10 is far from being a race tire.
It has far less grip and doesnt need tire warmers. Rs stands for racing street. Its the bt003rs replacement.
Its not a dot race tire.
Youre confusing it with the r10. I have a set of these. They are available in different compounds. The rs10 is not.
As far as raising the front, i started a thread a while back about it. Because guys were telling me it needs raised and i didnt believe them. If you look at pics of teams in europe theyre raising the front so much theyre using fork extensions like the suzuki bikes need. It makes the bike less twitchy in corners. I still lean to think thats its more of a personal preference that they raise it. I came from a r6 so that light twitchy cornering is very familiar. Some of those guys have been riding superbikes for many years and a superbike has always been known as a slow turning but corner stable bike that required a point and shoot riding style. The new r1 feels so much like an r6 it has forced some riders to have to adapt. And those that cant are the guys i think that need the front raised.
I'd be curious to know your source for that, you keep repeating it like its, you know, something you read on the internet.
Besides, you're the guy that posted in my suspension thread that if the bike is too stiff just squeeze your knees harder. I don't think anyone's taking you super seriously..
Even if legit teams are raising the front of the 15+ R1 such groups are also using adjustable steering head pieces, yep the good bits, which would let you raise the front while keeping rake and trail the same, preserving the steering geometry.
Either way, whatever pro teams are doing does NOT translate to how things work for most ppl on this forum. Unless you're at the very top, raising the front will make the bike run wide. It's something that should be tried almost last, not first. Your advice is gonna get some of these ppl hurt.
Learn how to read pal wether your suspension is stiff soft tuned or out of tune if you hit a bump and jerk the throttle means you have weight on your palms and is why I said to use your legs more.information comes from riding if you've pushed your bike enough you will realize the problem with the front but then your probably one of those guys who is off the brake before coming even close to 45/50 deg. Common knowledge dude pata Yamaha already stated the changes they had to make.
You raise the front not because u want to slow steering but you want a larger trail number that can help the stability when u have very high lean angles. Plus the tires that racers use can have higher profiles in the rear and you can raise the front to keep the attitude the same.
It's all a balance and trade off.
I'm flush up front and added 3mm to my rear shock length when i went to my K-Tech rear.
When i went to -1/+2 on the stock chain I had a minor but consistent head shake under hard acceleration right about 4th gear. Being concerned i may have went too short on my wheel base since I was slid pretty far forward i went back to a 41 tooth rear and my head shake is gone.
I went flush up front based on numbers I got from Team Rabid Transit. my lower triple to Axle at full extension is identical to their bikes and my rear is really close. I'm happy with it and it works with my riding style.
Great info there and good to know about the 42 rear change...I'm running 15/41 and it's pretty spot on for the tracks I race here but have a 42 that I'm gonna try when my current sprocket is worn out. With 15/41 my rear axle is dead center on the swingarm opening and I do get some slight headshake under hard accelaration (especially if I don't get the exit just right) also but the bike feels so good everywhere else that I've just dealt with it.
I just switched to K-tech carts in front (non pressure) and the DDS Pro rear this week and first ride will be Saturday for practice at Buttonwillow. Can't wait to see the how she feels with new legs. Hoping the improved equipment will help with more grip/feel/less headshake once I have it dialed in.
You even managed to not rip anyone for being too slow when providing feedback hahaaa nice :33:
+2 is a 43 rear just to clarify. I am running a 15 up front. so currently 15/41.
I do think the +2 gearing will work better for me on the the short course next year. dealing with the head shake on that config won't be that bad.
I need cartridges up front on mine. They are on the list for winter purchases. I also have the K-Tech DDS Pro rear. My shock length is at 320mm Eye to eye on the K-tech measuring tool. My stock shock was 317mm on the measuring tool as well. I was impressed to see that the stock shock had an adjustable lower eye. which was pretty awesome.
Oh yeah, I'm doing new math on the gearing hahaa...42 might be nice change then.
Yeah I was really happy it had the adjustable lower eye cause I wasn't too happy with the handling when it was bottomed out from the factory. We didn't grab the length when it was stock, just added 5 and it was a game changer. Was 317 with the shock lower eye bottomed out?
If I remember correctly raising the rear ride height is mainly for increasing swing arm angle and giving you more anti-squat. Used for tuning corner exit under power. Were you having issues with the bike not finishing corners under power and running wide??
You are correct SUperfly999.
I wouldn't say I was really having problems but I had only street ridden it and didn't like how much it would squat under power. That's why i did the minor adjustment to it. The factory swing arm angle in stock form is fairly lazy. adding shock length is a good/easy way to fix it.
I also raised my front so as to not make my turn in overly aggressive. -your results may vary-
Yea that's usually the case with stock swing arm angles being on the conservative side to favor outright rear grip incase you gas it too hard on the way to starbucks
Honestly i feel my hooks up even better now then it did before. Changing to quality tires also helps a lot. I run The Michelin power race Evo's and love their feel.
Regal 848 you should have also noticed right of the get go the front does not have enough rebound so before you went messing with ride height you should have upgraded that first if you didn't know that then your not even near the fronts edge of traction so your making changes that your not even ready for
Thank you for once again reinforcing my point. :beer
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