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The iGoldeneye 2015 R1M Racebike Build

89K views 190 replies 83 participants last post by  R1@150@alltimes 
#1 ·
I figured I'd finally start this thread as I've been acquiring parts over the past couple months and finally took delivery on my R1M yesterday. From '06 50th Anny, from my last '12 R1 build and everything in between, this fresh build should turn out to be a good one :drevil:

Let's get the party started! :crash

2015 R1M delivery...



Made it home and the first mod as installed within the first 5 minutes... Graves Spools so I can put it on the rear stand :lol



She's alive...



First round of parts pre-delivery



These showed up as well...




I need to run to Home Depot and grab a 6mm x 1.0mm thread tap to switch to GP-Shift, but I did start a little weight loss project last night once I got settled in. The R1M is giving off that "new bike smell" in my garage so loud it's intoxicating...

Curb feelers, stickers, reflectors, and passenger pegs removed



That dash...



Notice the spring rate from the factory on the R1M



Remove the seat, and you'll notice a familiar setup to the 09-14 with slight improvements (and more bolts :crash)



The human sensor- the IMU located under the battery



A lot more electronics means a lot more wires hidden under the fairings...



I had to locate the ECU and remove it for reflashing



Bench flash - Uploading the Gravespec flash file...



More updates with a little more detail to come. :drevil:
 
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#10 ·
#16 ·
Thanks for the kind words guys :thumbup

Honestly, the bike is AMAZING :ncont: The power kicks in around 7k (still breaking the motor in, but it creeps up in the revs from time to time :crash) It really doesn't need much work, but there are a few things I would like to clean up that would make it more comfortable for me to ride hard. First would be the reverse-shift (GP Shift)

This will probably get copy-pasted into a How-To shortly :D



Yamaha makes it very easy to use the original rearsets and QSS for "reverse" or "GP" shifting. The manual calls for a 1.0mm thread tapped about 6mm deep. This can easily be obtained at your local hardware store...



Yamaha pre-machined a hole for the reverse location, so locate it and thread it...



Threaded.



Once threaded, simply move the existing bolt and shift rod over to the newly threaded hole located on the other side of the pivot bolt...



Once this is complete, the shift rod will need to be adjusted. Best practice for quickshifters are to use 90 degree angles, so adjust accordingly. Use two 10mm wrenches for this effort.



I added a Ti racespec bolt to finish the job :crash



Easy as pie :thumbup


I also took a moment to install the GB Racing covers... They saved my engine covers from a lowside last November, hopefully they protect the CP4 just as well :yesnod





The engine bolts are 10mm. The bolts the GB Racing covers use are 8mm. Have those sockets ready :thumbup
 
#19 ·
Hi Friend!
What size is the rear aftermarket rotor please.
 
#21 ·
Subscribed!

Like I said, living vicariously through you dude! I figure, if I'm stuck on the other side of the world and can't spend time with the family or ride, then I'll enjoy some quality bike time, builds, etc. through the efforts of others who CAN do so! :thumbup :fact :33:
 
#24 ·
So I decided to fit this today...


Graves Motorsports Full Race Exhaust



Had to remove the two (yes, two) O2 sensors





Then the rest of the suitcase, can, and headers





Remove these three bolts to gain access to the EXUP valve



Then remove the EXUP (my crew chief letting me know which one to remove first :crash)



Before you can remove the OEM headers, you there is a cross pipe between cyl 2-3 so you'll need to unbolt the oil cooler and move it to get the headers out. Yes those catalytic converters weigh a TON... Everything else is light and still sexy :dunno



Graves quality #Laser



Header install is just like any other, retain the OEM gaskets and start with the down pipes and work your way back. I placed one end of the springs in the header collar then mounted the down pipes to make the spring installs easier :thumbup

Spring on before mounting...



Spring installed after torque



Rise, wash repeat...







(don't mind this pic. I took that bolt off to install a Cox radiator guard (had to mod my 09-14 to make it fit)

Y-pipes





Then the can



I still need to remove the EXUP completely and reflash the ECU (If you flash the ECU and do not configure the EXUP setting properly, you'll throw an error code 17 (EXUP) and the ECU won't allow you into YRC. Then you'll need to reflash with the 'EXUP Recall' option to clear error, so when you flash be aware of your ECU configuration and current state of the EXUP.



Once I fitted the springs, I fired it up just to hear it in real life finally :crash

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid1147.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo549%2Figoldeneye%2F7E6D0BFB-3A74-4BF5-AE2D-A850B979DBE9_zpsl2rotx5p.mp4&title=">

Bodywork mounted



Excuse my garage as it's currently a dump :shake: At any rate, with the flash and full exhaust, this thing was spitting flames on the warm up :boobies

https://youtu.be/C5gk41N3wfA

I added some other minor details, suited up and went for my first 'spirited' ride on "Roxy"

Racespec Ti bolt +5HP :crash



Ti Racespec Caliper Bolts



D-Zus Fasteners



FYI: You'll have to lift the tank to remove the right hand-side O2 sensor from the bike. The other (on the left side) is in a rubber boot near the shift rod



First ride with the exhaust was AMAZING!!! :ncont: In all honesty, it sounds like last year's Graves Superbike up close- Just loud and angry... I need to get those blockoff plates installed ASAP due to the extreme popping even with AIS disabled. The power is the real deal. Shit gets real above 10k and it's a wheelie monster :D The cornering, riding position, flickability, acceleration and fun factor are just second to none on this machine. It's as friendly as you want it to be, and will love you for pushing it to test the new electronics. The gearing it a little too tall for low rev street riding, so street guys will defo need a bump in gearing ratio (OEM is 2.56 or 16/41).

The ECU flash cleans up the choppy on/off throttle when running A Mode - PWR 1. The bottom end is restored, but again, it's not the grunt down low like the 09-14, but the speed this bike has in the higher revs is where the fun is at- This kind of joy did not exist on my last bike- flashed, exhaust, race gas and all :dunno:

Brakes are something I felt could provide more feedback as it was hard to determine what the tire was doing under heavy braking upright. I defo felt the UBS kick in and put pressure on the rear tire by the way the suspension feels. I still need to set my sag baseline (preload is still manual- just comp and reb are ERS), so that may help clean the front feel under braking. I do have a 19RCS with all the ti bling in the box waiting to be mounted if this becomes an issue :sneaky


But I did order some PFC pads to add more bite and feel as well, so we shall see...



Snapped a flick while parked downtown...

 
#25 ·
That's Haaa-mazing my man! I know we're in the initial stage of everything, but I still am really enjoying the updates and commentary! :thumbup
 
#48 ·
Thanks bro!!! Hope I'm living up to your expectations... We've spoiled the forums with our builds and literature :crash

Nice mods. I like the exhaust, but need a nice carbon belly pan. Right now it looks odd. Are you gonna use this bike on the track? I will get my M in 2 -3 weeks.
Bike will be a racebike :thumbup Don't know about a carbon belly on our dirty tracks though :crash

video onboard with that exhaust ASAP!!!!!
Coming soon!!! :D

Waiting for the belly pan install.
Me too :crash Roger is working on one for the street :sneaky:

Hey mate love what you are doing and thanks so much for sharing it all with us.
I'm just wondering if you could do us (me) a favor. Every time you replace some stuff for Ti stuff could you please tell us the size of it.. Would really appreciate that if you don't mind.
Do you realize how much work that is? :lol Best thing you can invest in is a yellow measurement card from ProBolt-USA. most of the bolts are M6 1.0mm thread pitch... Length varies

Can you PM me a write-up of things that are specific the 15 that you think should be the the F-T FAQ? Some screenshots works also be helpful. Thanks in advance...:thumbup. The bike is looking good so far.
Will do! Excellent idea my friend. EXUP Trouble recall is defo something that needs to be addressed... I also recommend doing to full backup of your current ECU flash before making tons of changes as I tried to reflash with a quick write (only writes the blocks that it modifies) once and it failed... Required a full ECU write to restore it with the proper ECU license. We'll talk :thumbup
 
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