First - thanks to Reuben for the great start on the return spring for the brake side of the AP rearsets.
Took the AP brake side rearset on a Lowes trip late this afternoon and picked up the bolts and a nylon spacer to make this work pretty well. If you look at the attached pix you'll see an M6x1.00x20mm screw in the middle position of the brake toe lever. One part of the spring attaches there (user the side of the spring that was on the brake light switch end and opened it up a bit) and the other part of the spring (open end) loops over the M8x1.25x20mm bolt that's mounted on the middle front bolt hole. Note that both bolts mount with the bolt head on the frame side (inside the rear sets). On the M8 bolt I used a .45x.325x27/64 nylon spacer which provided a good 'step off' from the rear set frame. Secured everything with blue loctite and it works great!!
i'm confused. i'm thinking about buying ap rearsets. cant you just get the actual return spring from graves or whoever and just hook it up like other rearsets have it done?
Just bought a used set of these same AP rear sets for my 2015 R1. Indeed there is no provision for the brake return spring, or the brake light switch. Seems silly that AP would not at least incorporate hooks for the large return spring if nothing else. I'll try the above mod, but also hoping to preserve the brake light switch. Can somebody explain further regarding the needed banjo bolt?
TIA,
Greg
Houston TX
I believe it was an M6. I have a box of assorted bolts so I just picked one long enough and used a nylon lock nut with a washer on the back side. The brake switch hole is rubberized so it is secure and not going anywhere.
Quick question: so the M6 bolt sort of floats loosely in the peg hole? Secured only on the other side of the brake switch with the nylock nut and washer?
Sort of,
Since the brake sw angle mount plate is rubber backed, you torque the nut down and it will never move since the maximum pressure you can apply is limited by the spring tension at maximum lever travel.
Or you can use a 10~15mm length pan head M8 and screw it in from the other side instead with threadlock, that would be rock solid.
Let me rephrase that question! After a closer look, obviously we need to use the brake light switch spring, that's how the pedal movement actuates the switch. The spring needs to be near vertical to work properly, how did you install yours? The stock brake light spring is too short to pull down into the toe lever opening, did you get a longer one?
Great info , thanks. What are you attaching the bottom of the brake light spring to? If I hook it into the toe lever opening, it fouls on the main bracket when moved. No other obvious point of attachment directly vertical below the brake light switch. Can you possibly provide a picture of the backside of the rearset?
~40mm M6 bolt that goes into the empty lever hole with a lock nut on the back side. Put the spring on the bolt head end. Or, use a nylon spacer like the pics in the beginning of this thread. Personally, I prefer a lock nut on the back side as it can lock tighter while the spring hook is free to rotate as you depress.
Hmm.. I'm already using that lever hole indeed with a M6 socket cap head bolt to secure the spring for the lever return, as shown in the beginning of this thread. I guess it could serve double duty to hold the switch spring as well. It seems too far forward to allow an inline alignment with the switch body, but maybe I can mount it at an angle to provide for this.
Maybe you guys aren't using the lever return spring, just the switch spring? It seems we need both, no?
I really appreciate the help on this thread. The AP rear sets are super cool, but I wish they would have engineered them just a bit further to allow for the OEM springs to be used!!!
Hmm.. I'm already using that lever hole indeed with a M6 socket cap head bolt to secure the spring for the lever return, as shown in the beginning of this thread. I guess it could serve double duty to hold the switch spring as well. It seems too far forward to allow an inline alignment with the switch body, but maybe I can mount it at an angle to provide for this.
I really appreciate the help on this thread. The AP rear sets are super cool, but I wish they would have engineered them just a bit further to allow for the OEM springs to be used!!!
Actually, I'm having to re-engineer a solution, as my current setup has the brake light switch pin not moving correctly due to improper alignment with the spring travel; it's binding under side pressure.
I have some ideas, will try them out and post my solution, should I find one.
Slightly off-topic but I wanted input from people that actually have the AP's...
Do these allow adjustment of the foot pegs to a position that is lower than stock? If so, how much lower? I'm 6'0 and i could really use an extra inch or so.
Slightly off-topic but I wanted input from people that actually have the AP's...
Do these allow adjustment of the foot pegs to a position that is lower than stock? If so, how much lower? I'm 6'0 and i could really use an extra inch or so.
Hey Pete, that's a tough question. I would think the lowest setting on the attack is not lower than stock.
If you wanna measure from the center of the stock peg to the floor while on rear stand only I can move mine on the brake side to give you my measurement.
Hey guys - I actually already ordered an installed the AP's. They allow for about 3" lowering and anything in between! Had a hard time getting a good pic but you get the point..
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