HOW TO: Camshaft / Camchain / Camchain Tensioner Installation Procedure - Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-17-2011, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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HOW TO: Camshaft / Camchain / Camchain Tensioner Installation Procedure

Hello all,

I just wanted to start a post for the correct and best procedure to install the camshafts, camshain tensioner because I'm having some confusion about this when I'm following the manual or trying it myself.

I have just been fighting with my machine to get them in the right way and according the manual but this didnt really work for me since the manual does not really describes in detail how to bring the camshain up to tension and also it does not describe when to tighten the sprockets on the cam's.

To give you an example about the quality of the manual: It says to put the
sprockets in first and then the cams.. I dont know but it seems to be the other way around..right?

offtopic:Also at the clutch removal procedure: it says to remove a spacer and another ring, then at the installation the order of installation is reversed...

ontopic:
My camshaft installation procedure;

-:Turn the crank 2 turns clockwise and align the T with the mating surface. TIP: dont go as close as putting your eye in it but take about 40cm distance. I found it easier to align the T more precisely

-:Put the camshaft + loosened sprockets onto engine and bolt the camshafts tight.

-:Align the camshafts EXACTLY at the timing holes.

-:Pre-spring the camshaft-tensioner

-:Press the left hand (at the tensioners side) guide towards the inside with a screwdriver through the tensioner hole and simulate the tension just enough to bring the chain between the intakecam-exhaustcam straightned. With this you can see if the chain is positioned correctly if not it will jump a teeth.

-:Make sure the chain between exhaustcam-crank is not too tight but feels light

-:Put in the tensioner and with a screwdriver, push the tensioner out of its lock. You can notice it working at the chain.

-:Now tighten the camsprocket bolts carefully not to move the cams TIP: put a stop like a big flat screwdriver between the cams to block them. use locktite

-:Now rotate the crank a couple of times and recheck alignment of the T and on the camshaft holes. Also make 100% sure it has no ''heavy spots'' while turning, with others words: check if its running smooth.


Without using this procedure I could not get the timing holes precisely and the T aligned aswell. I also had the constant problem that the chain had too much tension at one of the 3 sides so the crank just got stuck as hell.

Any other procedures which work or any input on my procedure is/are also welcome!
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-17-2012, 06:13 PM
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get any help on this....?
it appears if im reading manual right my sprockets r on the cam wrong...which shouldnt b a big problem just a PITA since its my 1st time trying this...i wouldnt mind some good info as well

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-04-2013, 12:32 PM
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Just put motor back together... No comment on the long break in between- lots if life issues held me back... But now that the motor is back in 1 piece I just need to install parts
I myself didn't take off cams sprockets- I found that if u install guides but don't put pin in to hold its position u got just enough slack to move cams slightly.. And getting them head bolts in wasn't a issue this time thankfully... Everything lined up right and I turned it several times w no hard spots I feel accomplished finally... Hope all the connectors r in good condition after the past few months.....should b on the road next time I have a babysitter))

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-04-2013, 02:00 PM
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You should never need to take off the cam sprockets unless you are switching to the slotted holes..which in case you should be degreeing your cams and you would probably have a damn good idea of what you were doing to start with. \

Just a tip, If you use a manual cam chain tensioner like the APE one. Its a hell of a lot easier to get everything lined on the first shot. The exhaust cam will tend to jump from the spring pressure. If you use the manual cam chain tensioner you can slowly apply pressure as you are bolting down the cam towers and nothing will move.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-18-2013, 09:05 PM
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Pics always help.. For reference

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-19-2013, 03:51 AM
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-19-2013, 06:48 AM
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Look good gear head from ur knowledge? Decoding that service manual can take a college degree... Lol


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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-24-2013, 08:47 AM
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I have no idea on how to release the CCT manually,how did you get a screwdriver in there to release the catch ?

I just installed the compressed CCT,put a ziptie on the camshaft sprocket and chain,then manually rotated the crank until it released the CCT catch.

Releasing the CCT without having to turn the crank definitely sounds easier,but how did you do it ?

Also,I didn't take off the camshaft sprockets,or loosen the sprocket bolts.Only had to replace exhaust shims though so I left the intake alone..

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-24-2013, 08:50 AM
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Turn the crank... I wondered the same


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Blue puig windscreen, Two brothers slip ons, -1 +2 sprockets, Blue stealth rear sprocket, Blue EK chain, CNC cut R1 heel guards, Hot bodies flush mount turn signals, Blue axle blocks, Blue rear hugger, Puig chain guard, Blue R1 rims, R1 Progrips, shogun frame sliders, carbon fiber mirror block offs
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-24-2013, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r1Totzauer View Post
Look good gear head from ur knowledge? Decoding that service manual can take a college degree... Lol


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I'm no expert,but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn last nite..the manual statement I agree with ,I learned more here than I did with the manual.

Judging by your pic #3,unless it's a ****ed up angle,your index hole on the camshaft is a bit off from the mark on the camshaft cover..I made sure those holes lined up perfectly with the camshaft cover marks on my bike.I don't know if it will make a difference or not with timing,but it might.

Just got my bike back together this morning and started it up..everything sounded fine.

If you understood the dangers of todays modern malls,you would not mock the brave men and women that secure them for our freedom and safety.

Last edited by Fuzzy; 02-24-2013 at 08:57 AM.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-24-2013, 09:00 AM
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Does look it... I jumped and reset timing after installin manual cct... That was the 1st pics..


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Blue puig windscreen, Two brothers slip ons, -1 +2 sprockets, Blue stealth rear sprocket, Blue EK chain, CNC cut R1 heel guards, Hot bodies flush mount turn signals, Blue axle blocks, Blue rear hugger, Puig chain guard, Blue R1 rims, R1 Progrips, shogun frame sliders, carbon fiber mirror block offs
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-24-2013, 09:12 AM
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Are you still going to use the manual CCT ?

I debated on getting the APE CCT,but in the end I just ended up ordering a new stock CCT....I figured the Japanese knew what they were doing,and the chance of adjusting APE CCT to the wrong tension was too much of a chance for a n00b like myself to take.

Gotta tell you,this morning when I first turned over my bike it was nerve racking,never done this work before on a modern bike.Thought the timing was going to be wrong and bend valves etc...

But I still haven't ridden her yet,so plenty of time for something to go wrong.

Next up is synching the throttle bodies..

If you understood the dangers of todays modern malls,you would not mock the brave men and women that secure them for our freedom and safety.

Last edited by Fuzzy; 02-24-2013 at 09:15 AM.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-24-2013, 09:22 AM
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I put in ape cct.. Is a pita !
How u synching ur tbs


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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-24-2013, 11:45 AM
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-24-2013, 11:48 AM
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I got same


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07 R1:
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