Need your input for a drag FAQ!!! - Page 2 - Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums

Drag Racing 1/8 and 1/4 mile Performance.

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post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-11-2008, 01:28 AM
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all swingarm ext will fix i have one that was not for my bike AND THAY WORK YOUR AXLE AND YOUR CHAIN TENSIONER ON A BIKE ARE ALL THE SAME
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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-10-2008, 12:22 AM
Just made this great wheelie.. did you see it?!
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Hi guys.. going to try out my 07 this weekend and I was thinking of strapping the bike down. does anyone have any pics of their bike strapped? just thinking of ratchet straps

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post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-15-2008, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by machz69 View Post
Hi guys.. going to try out my 07 this weekend and I was thinking of strapping the bike down. does anyone have any pics of their bike strapped? just thinking of ratchet straps


This Friday will be my first time at the drag strip. Im thinking about buying a strap but dont even know anything about them.


07 R1 | 99 CR 500 (Woods Slut) | 05 YFZ450 (GF's) | 98 Mustang Cobra | Chevy z71 with 12" of Lift (Toy Hauler)
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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-02-2008, 09:18 PM
Stretched out 10 + 2
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Originally Posted by 1longR1 View Post
gearing all depends on weight. and yes 1 down in front is like plus 3 in rear. but going down 1 on 04 up.. is like stock sprocket on 98-03.. so no problems with chains there, tho its good idea and chain will last longer with rear sprocket change. honestly...its all about wheelbase.. if you go up 3 in rear.. then get longer chain to utilize that extra inch of WB instead of it sucking rear tire up 1 inch with different rear sprocket. if you see all prostar 1000ss bikes.. rear wheel is as far back as it can go in adjusters. so whichever u go.. get longest wheelbase u can out of it and improve 60ft times and help from wheelieing.

clutch...its good idea to remove hub and basket and check it. specially after smoking one till its dead. also take time to pull pan... clean pan and oil strainer, so u dont spin bearing after 2 sets of clutches burning up.. only takes a little time.. but can save u $$$. plus always change oil when doing clutch... its cheap insurance.. dont be tightwad.

suspension.. run as little preload as u can.. u want rear suspension to work, that will keep front end from coming up as well. u want weight transfered to rear as far down track as u can for traction purposes. run top(compression) setting on soft(counterclockwise) as far as it will go(helps rear squat and weight transfer quicker) and bottom adjuster(rebound) set to hard(clockwise) this will keep rear end down as long as possible and keep more traction on tire.

tires.. shinko is best for $$$ and yes spencer is best place to get them. tirepressure.. run as much tire pressure as u can and not spin. some tracks suck.. run less air. good starting spot on stock bike is 25 psi.. go down from there until you get consistent good traction, add few lbs and see what it does. anything under 8 and tire can spin on wheel. longer WB.. less air unless ur heavier. everything in dragracing is effected by weight of bike and rider!! front tire.. u want as little rolling mass on ground.. run 40-45 psi.... some guys run as much as 60 in tires.

chain.. lubed up great chain.. is slower. bike on dyno picks up 2 hp just removing all orings.. make sure its lubed..but dont get carried away. clean it with wd40 or kerosene and give it light coat of chain lube.. or just run wd 40 and lube when u get home. make sure axles are tight, but not overtight. this can pinch bearings and give u more friction. nascar guys pull brake caliper and push them alll way apart on qualifying.. less drag on them.. tho not good idea on bike.. but u get idea.

also if ur hardcore..check into ceramic bearings for wheels.possibly motor..(expensive) but worth 2-4hp and few hundredths.

there is no replacement for seat time. practice and practice some more

keep log book with all ur entries.. all ur times and RT. also keep track of how much u win or what it cost to enter race(who knows might need it on ur tax return) but good idea to see what temps and elevation due to times.. also great for dialing bike in if you mess up on time trials.. u can go back and see what bike ran with similar 60ft or 330..say u miss shift.. all this can help u dial bike in.

run bike same everytime.. stage it same. let it cool down same. cool down at least 15 minutes will help ur clutches. i remove oil fill cap and zip tie clutch lever pulled after each pass to get cool air to them and let clutch plates cool with them pulled apart. plus zip tie is easy to remove and reuse. i stick mine on ignition key..that way i dont loose it

safety.. always be on safe side. wear boots or shoes that cover ur ankles. leather or armored jacket a must. kill switch a must at most tracks. if u have leathers...dont be fool.. they zip together for a reason.. if u like i will show u pics and video of whyu should do it. helmet and gloves.. well they speak for themselves. also dont run u bike if u dont feel right or bike doesnt feel right.. its just not worth it. be on ur game and ready to win at all times.. bracket or heads up racing.. attitude is everything. also listen to track instructions and go to drivers meetings.. some times things change.

watch other bikes. learn from them. body position, track conditions, launch rpms, shifting..everything.. plus gives u practice at track. if u dont learn something new at track each time.. then ur not watching enuff. ive been doing it 15 plus years now.. still learn about track or see something to work on.

keep urself hydrated and fed. bike being in tiptop shape wont matter if u pass out during a run(ive seen it happen) wear sunscreen and ballcap and loose light clothing.

have fun.. if not ur not doing it right. dont get down if bike doesnt run what u expect. make best of it. enjoy sport, plus get others to join in. offer tips and suggestions, we all need more bikes in class.
damn bro you nailed it.

*ECC Racing 727*
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post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-16-2010, 05:55 AM
under construction
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ok im thinking about gearing my bike but im getting alot of people saying that i shouldnt. i have a 07 r1 and im only 150lbs. what do you guys think
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post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-13-2010, 10:36 AM
Street Runnerz M/C Natl. Prez
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Originally Posted by haro456 View Post
ok im thinking about gearing my bike but im getting alot of people saying that i shouldnt. i have a 07 r1 and im only 150lbs. what do you guys think
gear it

down one in the front and up two in the back
maybe even three in the back if you really wanna come out the hole... but your top end is gonna suck if you don't change it for regular street riding

Originally Posted by Meister37 View Post
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Kentucky: 5 million people, 10 last names.

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Why are there so many unsolved murders in Kentucky? There are no dental records and everyone has the same DNA

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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-13-2010, 11:20 AM
It's My Swag!!!
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Originally Posted by sircharles1 View Post
gear it

down one in the front and up two in the back
maybe even three in the back if you really wanna come out the hole... but your top end is gonna suck if you don't change it for regular street riding
Would you suggest gearing for street riding? If so, 1-down in front, 2-up in back? Thx!
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post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-21-2011, 02:05 AM
My R1 eats me.
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does anyone know what cams are good to use for a 07 r1?
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post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012, 06:44 PM
I eat my R1
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Originally Posted by wheeliek!D View Post
does anyone know what cams are good to use for a 07 r1?
hot cams if you can find em, web cams

check out this site

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R1-016 'Venom' Squadron Member "NC"

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post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-19-2012, 04:25 AM
92 1100 / 98 r1
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wow this is awsome, I havent raced my 98 r1 in about 4 years, and getting back on it now. you guys are really helping remember what i need to do. i got back on and ran a 9.24 after 4 years, is that still a good time for a stock motor bike with extentions and spray?
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post #31 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-28-2013, 01:59 AM
My R1 eats me.
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Please tell me that where can i get the quality drag racing parts at cheaper price? Thanks in advance.
drag racing parts
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post #32 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-30-2013, 11:24 AM
Burn baby Burn.
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what model of cams are people running in the 2008's also looking at dry kits any brands better?

08 r1 bmc filter, race port head, flashed ecu, motion pro throttle, smog plates, graves full exhaust, pcV, custom dyno tune.
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06 cbr 600rr knn filter, pcIII, yoshi slip on. -1 +2.
96 kz 650
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post #33 of 33 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 09:56 PM
Newer doesn't mean faster
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Clutch half plates

Originally Posted by R105 View Post
Ok gang, here's the deal. We have a lot of experienced people with R1s and drag racing on this forum. And we have a ton of information buried within threads. Sometimes the search engine can let users down, and not spit out exactly what they are looking for. And sometimes people just don't want to read through 5 pages of posts for the one little bit of information they are looking for. Having all the typical questions/answers along with basic information like yammy part numbers etc. in one spot would be tremendously useful I think.

Please reply on this thread with any input. Post up any question you think would be appropriate for a FAQ sticky. Even if you don't know the answer, post the question anyway, someone here probably knows the answer. I really think this will be a group effort, and just wanted to get things off the ground.

So I think there are "general" drag racing questions regarding launch techniques, bike setup, etc. And then there are model specific types of questions. I don't think we have to get so specific as to break it down into more sections. But if we find we have a ton of info we could break it down to chassis/tires/engine/etc. I have no preconceived ideas on what the results will look like, only that a bunch of common/useful information be easy to look through in one spot.

Once we have enough input from people on this thread, we can sift through and put together a legible FAQ that can be posted as a sticky by a moderator. Goobr, a moderator here, has already agreed to make a sticky for what we come up with (thnx mucha!).

Here is what I blurted out as a start to a FAQ in another thread. I didn't really put much thought into it, I just typed what came to mind. So come on gang, let's get this thing rolling...

general clutch questions:
Q) I own an '04/05/06 R1, and I think my clutch is fried. I only have X amount of passes on it, and X amount of miles. can the clutch really be gone?
A) Yes it is likely the clutch is toast if you've been making passes with moderate slipping through first gear.

Q) what is the best replacement clutch for drag racing?
A) stock yamaha parts hold up the best, and are also the cheapest. don't forget to replace the half plates with fulls. many times you can get away with just replacing the metals when they warp/glaze over.

Q) how many passes should I expect to get from a clutch?
A) depends on how hard you are riding the clutch. I've broken clutches with just 5 or 6 passes. I've also managed to get a couple dozen medium'ish launches out of a clutch. with a stock bike and 10k rpm launches, expect few passes. with an extended and geared bike expect to get more. with softer launches from say 4-6k rpm, expect to get more passes. etc. etc.

Q) what parts exactly need to be replaced when changing clutches
A) assuming all plates (fiber and metals) are being replaced:
<xyz> number of fibers - yammy part #
<xyz> number of metals - yammy part #

Q) how the frig do you get the clutch cover back on
A) try some wheel bearing grease, but mostly patience, experience.

Q) do I need to replace the clutch cover gasket as well?
A) not every time, as its a metal gasket. but typically I do every 3rd or 4th clutch

Q) will an oil line from tobefast help with clutch longevity
A) I'm not convinced it helps, but some swear by it. your mileage may vary.

Launching questions/techniques:
Q) what rpm should I launch at?
A) depends on a lot of variables
what year R1?
stock bike? extended? geared? lowered?
techniques on launching will also differ from person to person. some will hold throttle and ride clutch and slowly roll on throttle. some like to start from a lower rpm and quickly roll on throttle and let clutch out from the hole. etc..etc.

Q) should I do clutchless shifts?
A) yes

Q) does clutchless shifting hurt the transmission?
A) not if you're doing it right

Q) how do you properly do a clutchless shift?
A) blah blah blah
Just sifting through old drag racing threads and found this one that mentions replacing half clutch plates with full ones..I run a 01 R1 with OEM clutch internals ( found they handle it the best) with double (2x) pressure plates. Makes it heavy on the lever but she dont slip once let go. I have never thought about replacing the single half plate with a full plate and im interested to know what difference it makes. Unsure if it is even possible with this model. Always looking to improve 60 foot times. anyone have any first hand experiences with this??

01 R1
Hi comp pistons + rods
Hi lift cams
Crank grind polished balanced
Fully race ported
Yoshi headers
41mm Mikuni flatslide carbs
Ignitech race ignition,
Adjustable launch control
Adjustable advance curve
Adjustable rev limiter
Doubled clutch pressure plates
Custom shift light
Pingel electromagnetic quick shifter
10 inch extension
Front forks dropped,strapped
Lower link
520 conversion -2 front +1 rear
Hookup rear
Single front brake rotor
Chopped sub frame

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