Originally Posted by greenstreak9205
Outta curiousity, you have pics of that set up BFA?
I wish I did! I thought I had posted them on here before and have searched to show other people my setup but I can never find them. It was on a $230 Harbor Freight trailer, and that thing was worth WAY more than I paid for it. Not that it's a good idea or that I'm bragging, but I had it up to 125mph behind my Magnum with my R1 on it and it tracked beautifully no matter what speed I was going and never had any wiggle behind me.
My set up was pretty sick I think and I try to tell whoever I can about it cause it worked great for not a lot of money. So I got the cheap trailer, but made sure I got the 12 inch rims, not the smaller ones. I put 3/4" plywood cut into two pieces because it was a folding trailer, but because the plywood was so thick, it didn't stay folded naturally so I just used one of the motorcycle straps around the rear tie down points to hold it together and it would stand upright on its own and was able to be pushed around the garage on the casters.
For the tie down points: The frame is good enough to hold itself and the weight of the bike sturdy but not for screwing anchor points directly to, and I didn't really want to put my anchor points into the plywood. So I got some small scrap pieces of 1/4" steel and drilled a hole through it and used them as backing plates for big eye bolts that mounted horizontally from the side of the frame. They were basically just big thick square washers to stiffen that point. Because they were on the side of the frame, they were spread pretty far apart which is best. I would say the straps were at about a 45 deg angle.
For the chocks, it was just as I said where the front was 6 inch channel welded up at an angle, and the rear was just a flat piece of 8 inch channel. All the corners were rounded off on a bench grinder and I used rattle can primer and rustoleum paint. Because my trailer was foldable, I wanted them easily removable without the use of tools. I drilled 4 holes in the base of each and also through the plywood where they would be mounted, and used some flat head pins the exact size of the holes I drilled (I think 1/2 inch) and the pins had holes down the length of the pin to insert a large cotter pin. I used a small ammo can to keep all the bits in when they weren't installed and I kept a small hammer in there to knock the pins in and out because they were a nice tight fit. So they were basically secured kind of the same way hood pins work on cars.
For the ramp, I bought a $20 aluminum ramp end kit that was designed to go on the end of a piece of a 2x8 board, and I installed it on the board and drilled the small holes in the plywood deck for the little anchor pins for the top of the ramp. Then I used two strips of skateboard-like grip tape down the center of the board and made sure the strips went around the ends of the board and screwed the ends in just so they wouldn't peel up. The trailer came with brackets to insert 2x4s on the sides, which I didn't use, except for the front of the trailer. I cut two pieces of 2x4 about a 18" long, and attached them with bolts through the ramp so that they were sticking out sideways. When I was not using the ramp, I would just insert it into the brackets in the front and basically made it a front wall of the trailer/ rock deflector.
On the tongue I screwed a piece of plywood and cut the edges off to follow the angle of the tongue so that I could mount stuff to it like the spare tire and my little ammo box.
The coolest thing and I think everyone should do if they have a wooden trailer deck is to get pronged tee nuts
I got two different sizes and placed them in multiple locations on the decking. You just drill a hole, and hammer these in from underneath, and then you can screw in machine thread eye bolts where ever you want, and just unscrew them when you don't need them. They are perfect for a flat trailer when you want to be able to carry more stuff on it. I have strapped down 3 ton jacks, tool boxes, bicycles, coolers, tent bags and lots of other stuff. If you have a drill and a few extra, you can just make a new mounting point whenever you want if you have some weird shaped thing you need to strap down.
I really wish I had some pics of my set up. I know I took some but I can't find anywhere where I posted them.
Bottom line is, the Harbor Freight trailer is VERY good for the money and extremely versatile. I have seen much more expensive trailers that can't do anything but tow a motorcycle. I didn't want to get into the explanation cause this is long enough, but I did carry two bikes after adding a piece of angle iron across the undercarriage of the trailer to mount some anchor points wider than the width of the frame and towed them from SC to OK. Oh it was only a 4x8 trailer too. And one more thing, it's kind of hard to reverse with a flat trailer cause you can't see it when it's straight behind you and you don't have anything on it, but the cool thing is, you can fold the back of the trailer over the front, and the axle is right there, and it's light enough to pick up by the axle and pull it around to where you need it when you fcuk up haha. Well, it's light enough if you are a 250lbs BFA.