:mad: 2004 Clutch Fried :mad:

Hey guys, I recently read some tips about what to do in order to gain a little on the Drag Strip.

I also Noticed that couple postings were saying that the clutch plates on the new 2004 R1 are very fragile and won't tolerate much slipping.

It was recommended that at least 20 minutes of cool off time should be given between passes on the drag strip or the clutch will overheat and fry.

Well I went to the Drag Strip 3 times before last night and ran about 25 passes each time, my best time was (10.235) Fastest speed 142.73MPH.

Settings:
Suspension: Set for street use. (Way I like it to ride it)
Sprockets: Stock 17T-F/45T-R
Gas: SUNOCO 94-O (About 3/4 Full Tank)
Tires: Stock DUNLOP D218 (38PSI-F/40PSI-R)
Oil: MOTUL 15W-50 Semi-Synthetic
Launches: At about 3500RPM-5000RPM

3rd time I went I tried 16T-F Sprocket but my speed was down to about 141MPH and times were at about (10.280)


Last night (Sept 26th) I went again, the following changes were maid since last trip to the Drag Strip:

Settings: Suspension: Preload all the way out (Lower Front End)
(F) Rebound to Hardest setting
(R) Lowest setting on the shock teeth
Sprockets: Stock 17T-F/45T-R
Gas: SHELL 91-O (100% Full)
Tires: DUNLOP D-208 GP (Mediums) 32PSI-F/30PSI-R
OIL: MOTORAX 15W-50 Semi-S (Don't like it)
Launches: At about 4000RPM - 7000RPM

I always need few runs at first to get in to it so after about 6 Passes I was down to (10.269) at 143.17MPH

After that I took another 2PSI off each tire, I was confident that I can hit 10.1s that night.

I never had a chance, the clutch gave and started slipping so bad, at first I thought I was miss-shifting but then I realized I actually finished the run in 6th gear hitting 240Kph and at about 12,500RPM (definitely The clutch Problem)

As to 20 minutes between passes, It's not that I didn't believe that, in fact I am not a mechanic or technician or even a tuner, not even close. But i was running about 2-3 runs at times per 20 minutes.

4 visits, thats about 100 Passes, with very little time between passes.

On the way home I noticed that when I was shifting up and rolling on it, RPMs would go really high right after gear-shift and then roll back down SLIPPING!!!

So I never beat my buddy he runs:

Bike: 2001 GSXR 1000
Mods: Cams Degreed, Full System Yoshimura RS3
K&N Filter

He ran 10.194 at 141.?? MPH

My R1 is Stock except for BMC Air Filter, Power Commander IIIusb and Dynojet Map.

I had a good feeling that I'll beat him and after I lowered the tire pressure to about 28PSI-F/30PSI-R it felt good at the starts.

Then Clutch started slipping and my night was over.

He was launching his GSXR at about 9000RPM though what to me seemed very high, it worked though I guess.

Now????:no

Does anyone know, if there are better Clutches available for 2004 R1s???

I checked GRAVES Motorsports website, but didn't find it for 04 Model.

I would prefer to go with a different one than Stock.

1. Can I get one???
2. Where???
3. How much $$$??? (US $$$ Or CAD $$$)
4. How much is Stock???
5. Any suggestions for future trips to the Drag Strip???
6. Does Aftermarket clutch (if available) require so much time before passes too?
7. If So, what's the advantage over Stock?

Thanks guys

:thumbup :rant :fire

Shit man that sucks!!.....You can try call Jeff Bloor at www.cyclemax.ca

He's the one who has done all the work on my Bike...Just tell him that I sent you(Steve from hamilton Silver R1).....He just put in the stacks and 15T and 520 race chain for me last week!!

Was out last night with some other hoodlums with '04 R1's. My buddy did about 8 passes last weekend on his (silver, stock) and first pass last night he lunched it big. His wouldn't grab over 55mph. We had to nurse it home.

He's got 8k miles on the bike.

Mine's at 7k miles and still going strong, but I've got no wheelies, no drag strips. I ride mine hard but in the corners. On my third rear tire.


On another note, my other buddy has a red '04 with a full akro, pcommander, and dropped a tooth on the front, and his motor just detonated. Dealer said the manufacturer is going to warranty it due to a design defect. Apparently on some of the blocks the cylinder wall is to thin near the water jacket. His motor shagged the wall and got coolant into the cylinder. toasted it. He didn't abuse it either. Older guy maintained it perfect. Crazy. Makes me want to sell mine before someothing happens.

:rock New Clutch Needed :rock

Hey guys, thanks for the quick response.

I did some riding today, and my bike tops out at like 260Km/h as it doesn't pull after that because the clutch was slipping pretty darn bad, I mean maybe it would pull some more but very slowly after about 250km/h.

I am considering to go with the Clutch KIT from TOBEFAST.com
It's a "Barnett 04 R1 Complete Carbon Clutch Kit ".

Now I heard that sometimes the Baskets will get ruined too when you ride on a bad clutch for a while, I hope mine will bo OK is it just happened yesterday and I am not planning on riding it untill new clutch is in place.

I just don't wanna pay for the Basket which may be very expensive.

I am hoping that getting that KIT form Barnett will fix the issue.

Looks like the KIT has all the Plates (Friction,Steel,Springs).
http://www.barnettclutches.com/pages/clutches/index.php3

Other than that everything works well.

"SMSHIELD" I am sorry to hear about your buddy's R1, that really blows, sometimes I am concern about my bike too as my serial number is 169th bike off the line, so I often think the earlier the more chance to have something defective.


"R1Steve" Thanks for the reply, I spoke to Jeff last week about getting some work done to my bike, he mentioned you, I chuckled and said yeah we've met in London few days earlier.

He said your R1 really goes, I was considering getting pretty much same stuff done as you have, may have to wait a little though is it ain't cheap.

I may call him again about the clutch issue to get some hints and tips.

I don't know how much Yamaha Stock Clutch components are, but I don't really want them again, this BARNETT one sounds better.

Anyway, tomorrow I'll find out from my dealer, what the stock ones are, how much labour would be and stuff.

If I'll get the Barnett ones I may do the work myself, I mean with a buddy who've done it before few times.

Appearantly it's not a difficult job, I never've done it before though so I rather do it with someone who done it.

I will keep you posted as to how things will go.

Thanks again and talk to ya later.

:rant TADI:rant

>>>:rock <<< Barnett Carbon Fiber Clutch >>>:rock <<<

Hey guys, just updating you on what's the deal with my clutch.

Well, I ordered new "Barnett Carbon Fiber" complete KIT Clutch for my R1 and it is suppose to be in on Wednesday (Sep 29th).

Cost of the clutch Kit was $254.11 CAD Tax Inc
Cost of Installation: $150.00 (Or Less) +Tax (15%)CAN,ON

So in total about $400.00 CAD.

This plate Kit Includes:

A Friction Plates: 8pcs
B Friction Plate: 1pc
Tempered Steel Metal Plates: 8pcs
Spring Kit: Included

I decided not to go with stock clutch plates again as I heard and found out for myself, they are not good at all, I mean that's what the bike comes with so I figured let's used until it goes and then get a better one.

I was also told that difference is quite noticeable between even brand new stock clutch and Barnett clutch.

I am taking my bike in on Friday to get the clutch replaced so I will let you all know how it works.

Later !!!

:jump :fork :jump

:rant TADI:rant

so how did it turn out, how is the new clutch?

i never had problems with barnetts in my 00, but in 04 the stock plates are so much cheaper than any of the others. metals are 2 bucks a piece. other dragracers did not like the cryogenic plates and others burned up just as fast. i made it a full year on set with new springs allowing cool down. if i dont the die. but his running 2-3 per 20 mins on clutches is NO good. i dont mind replacing them cuz i get them at cost anyways which is real cheap. i always carry full set of spares metals and fibers to track with me.i hope his money was well spent.

At least you wore out the clutch at the dragstrip. A friend of mine with an '04 Gixxer thou blew his after 4000 easy street miles. :confused:

I think the big four are willing to deal with a few issues to make the bikes lighter and faster. I heard a few years ago that GSXR 750's could gain or loose 5 hp just by taking them apart and putting them back together, the cases were so thin and flexable. I'm sure the liter bikes are just the same.

I was doing quarter mile races against a busa and after about 5 or 6 runs , my clutch started slipping at around 7500 rpms,when i gave lots of throttle. I guess i will have to tackle the fiber and clutch plate swap ,over the winter here,I hate doing things for the first time , like to watch someone do it first before I take a stab at it. I might just take it to a dealer and see if I can watch him do it first so I can change it myself down the road. Have had other bikes and never had a problem with clutch burning out, for some reason I didn't even think it was possible to burn out the clutch on a bike.I never took any time out in between races , now at least i know better , live and learn.When i take my clutch apart will I be able to see right away where the damage was. would i have to replace all the fibers and plates , or could it only be one or 2 plates and fibers that are wrecked.I know it makes sense just to change them all since they are so cheap but just wondered. Nothing worse then hitting 7000rpm and having no power!!!!!!, that's where the fun begins.

letting them cool is one thing, but really its about figuring out what rpm to launch and how much slippage to get. then find out if they are gonna live like that or change ur launch style and rpm.

Ya the last to launches before i fried the clutch ,I was reving it up to about 7k and slipping the clutch quite a bit , launch was much quicker then previous launches but clutch paid for it. I don't have sprocket conversion, I'm sure if i did would not have to slip the clutch as much and it would spool up quicker, 1st gear just to dam long.Don't think I will be doing many races from dead stop, once i get it fixed , do more roll ons, save the clutch.

I fried the plates -once and i am afraid for twice..

Here is what i am doing:

the Front pressure 25 psi
the rear 26 psi
first gear ,clutch, 5500-7000 rpm(depents how much adrenaline you will have that time..)

release 3/4 of the clutch,and the next 1/3 second release all.(without slowing your right hand...)
try to put as much weight in front

After comes my tip...you will have a problem if you do this 10 time every night.. ...

change the first at 12500-13000 without clutch(still puting weight in front otherwise you may feel like a f16....)
change all gears without clutch.



Say hello to the k1 with (i quess...) the yosi cams...

one way to help mph is air up front tire to 45psi. your front tire is way to low. of course that will raise the front end a few mm. you should see a couple extra mph with tire inflated fully. also if you are wheeling with 25 in rear, try putting more in it till it spins and back it down. i try to run as much air in rear as i can before it spins to get better mph.