How can I get rid of 17?(EXUP complete removal 02 R1)

I posted on the diagnostic codes sticky, but haven't got a reply.... I got full exhaust and removed the exup motor... Now my engine light is on and im getting 17 on the cluster... I know its cuz of the exup is disconnected, what I need to know is how do I get rid of the code and turn the light off?

There is someone that will sell you a very expensive resistor. Why did you completly remove it? It doesn't weigh that much and easily tucks in under the tank out of the way?

Originally posted by elegalr1der I posted on the diagnostic codes sticky, but haven't got a reply.... I got full exhaust and removed the exup motor... Now my engine light is on and im getting 17 on the cluster... I know its cuz of the exup is disconnected, what I need to know is how do I get rid of the code and turn the light off? You can do one of the following: 1) reinstall the servomotor but not the actuating cables. 2) install a 7.5K Ohm resister in place of the servomotor. 3) install a ServoSub from Samanna Systems (Sam Farris), the best option in my opinion. It's about $100 or so.

I sold the stock headers w/ the valve and servo.... So its disconnected completely.... Theres 5 wires: Black/red Black/Blue Black/Green White Blue where to I connect the resistor? Thanks guys, Really appreciate it

Originally posted by elegalr1der I sold the stock headers w/ the valve and servo.... So its disconnected completely.... Theres 5 wires: Black/red Black/Blue Black/Green White Blue where to I connect the resistor? Thanks guys, Really appreciate it Well, I know that on the 00/01, the resister would go between the black/red and the white/red wires. Maybe try between the black/red and the white wires on your bike?

That did it! Thanks again Eyespy Jes

Yo, just some radio shack part ele? Can you post pics...please and get a sticky here?

Originally posted by elegalr1der That did it! Thanks again Eyespy Jes Glad to help. :beer

ElegalR1der, did you use a typical wire wound resistor? Is it 1/8 watt, 1/4 watt or what? I have been riding with an engine light and code 17 for too long!

Thx for the tip

did anyone figure out whcih 7.5 resister it is? and it goes from back/red to t he white wire? hide

Go to www.samannasystems.com and look at the schematics he has for his device and the resistor trick. It gives you all you need to know. http://samannasystems.com/install.html I'm not usre if I'm going to buy his for $100 or take it on as a project and build it. Let's see, which do I have more of time or money??? Good Luck!

bah im tryin to figure out which 7.5 resister it is! :(

Hideout, I never saw an answer to the question. However, after reading all of the data on the Samanna web site I have decided that it is a better choice to go with the device that replicates the feedback of the servo rather than the resistor. Good Luck!

can i borrow, er have $100 then? :D

Sams servo sub is easy to install and works great. Not to mention he is really a great guy who will help out with any questions people have. I bought his servo sub and while installing it had a question. I called him and he was very helpful. Additionally he helped me on abother mod I was doing @ the same time unrelated to his product.

Revisiting this subject... This Servosub is worth doing. I ordered it Monday and got it today(Friday). Took about an hour to do including the cleaning I always find myself doing. Tucked it up under the tank out of the way. A nice project for a crappy winter day. The sub is about the size of your thumb. I'm totally obsessive about everything on my bike needing a reason for being there. This gets rid of one more thing that wasn't doing anything but making noise. Smog plates were another project that was really worth the trouble. The link to Samanna is in one of the previous posts.

if the < $1 resistor gets rid of the error code why would a $100 part be worth it??? never mind i read the site

Shoot, I haven't looked at this post for a long time.... Im not sure if the resistor I used was 1/4 or 1/8 watt, It has the gold band though not sure if that tells you. I actually had to use 2 resistors because I didnt have a 7.5k Ohm. You can get resistors anywhere, radio shack, fry's, etc... If you have to use more than 1 like I did, make sure you run them in series not parallel. What I did was, disconnected the servo motor and cut the wires at the end of the connector. From those wires you run the resistor(s) between the black and red wire and the white wire. This is the connector that hooks up to the servo:

So there are 5 wires that run to it.... Run the resistor between the black and red wire and the white and red wire

Thats basically it, pretty simple. I soldered them in, the resistors are inside the heat shrink

I am getting ready to do the samething on my 06 R1. Is the resistor size and location to install it the same? BTW what wires did you install the resistor? Graves Full system with oval cans are coming today along with PCIII.

I have the 06 R1. I just put the graves full oval system on and I have the same question. Where should I put the resistor? I ran the servo wiring back and left it under my seat so I could get to it without lifting the tank again. The graves pipes sure cleaned up the lag around 4500 to 6000 rpm. Worth every penny. If anyone it going to put graves pipes on call Sean Cox Manager XRAC (800) or (719) 634-1914 Best price in the world for Graves pipes and Power Commanders

I have the servosub installed on my stock harness, but I am installing a race harness. I don't see anywhere to connect the servosub, does anyone know if I still need it? Guess I'll find out in a few days when I get the bike back together.

a quick question. where do the codes show up on the cluster. My engine light comes on aboiut 80% of the time and I do not have any codes appearing.

well I picked up a 1/8 and 1/4 watt resistor and tried both of them and the light and code are still present. Do you have to clear the codes manually afterwards?

No, the code usually clears itself although it might take a few seconds. For anyone interested, I ended up installing the Servosub on the race harness. It has the same connector as stock for the servo, I just didn't see it.

Originally posted by Pariah well I picked up a 1/8 and 1/4 watt resistor and tried both of them and the light and code are still present. Do you have to clear the codes manually afterwards? Spend the money and go with what has been proven to work...Sam's servo sub

bugger, i see that Sam's servo sub is the best way to do this now... or maybe i can do it the other way... more reading now... ;p

My q to all of you out there removed the EXUP and servo..DID That serve any better to the sound and performance or it is the same, Also after removing and doing the good work is a custom map in need to get it running like a champ ......?:hammer:

My q to all of you out there removed the EXUP and servo..DID That serve any better to the sound and performance or it is the same, Also after removing and doing the good work is a custom map in need to get it running like a champ ......?:hammer: You remove the Exup when you replace the stock exhaust with an aftermarket full system which does help with the power and sound. It's the full system making these improvements. (along with a PCIII and decent map)

dose this work on an 05 R1 as well my light has been on since I got my bike and it has a full graves kit on it.

What a great site... my first time on and you have resolved one of my niggling problems straight away... off to the resistor shop tomorrow.. jt

Forget that rigging resistor stuff, think about it most of you guy's have paid 8,000 or more for your bike if you bought new even more and you would be willing to do 3.00 mods on it. No I don't think so. I would go with the sam servo because it is a really clean install only takes about 10min to do and comes complete with weather proof connectors (no electrical tape needed) and direction. For a 100.00 money well spent considering you just put a full exhaust on which cost as much as 1200.00 -1500.00 and sometime even more. Like I said 3.00 resistor no I don't think so.

Hi 408g... I hear what your saying... now the reason I considered the resistor route is two fold... a) I had the warning light and its annoying, and as I was missing BHP and torgue in mid range I was concerned that like Kwak and Honda (I think) when you get a major F1 alarm the system puts the bike into a reduced power mode... b) Miine is not standard its a Spondon Framed special etc etc , and like all such specials weight must be lost, and space is very very limited,,, so no where to put the damm servo ;-) So in the end... 1) Get the specail resistor pack from Sam (as others on the thread suggested, its neat and tidy and waterproof... and has removed the F1 fault and 07 alarm,.Result... 2) Found I had the inlet cam timing out a couple of teeth (allways prob when setting these things up as it all moves when the tensioner goes back in)... now I have all my mid-range power back and more... another result.,,, (in other words with Yam R1 ignition controller does not down power on F1 fault !!) I run nearly standard engine, small amount of inlet porting (more to be done later), Micron Serpant headers mated through a modded collector to one off titanium shorty pipe, Power Commander and Graves Velocity stack. (also removed the AIS system and fitted the Graves Slugs more weight gone and allows better tuning on the dyno... getting around 145 + BHP now..... more to come over the winter. cheers guys..

:secret: Many thanks to all that posted info on this topic, in particular Eyespy & elegalr1der. I also agree totally with vcyclenut on the issue of why spend $100 when for a few bucks and 1 hour max of tinkering works beautifully. I would also like to add my 2 cents worth for anyone not wanting to cut off the plug head from the harness, in the event that at some time in the future you may want to return to the stock setup for what ever reason. I ended up using 3 resistors (1/4 watt) soldered in series to make up the 7.5 ohms ( couldn't find a single or 2 to make up the 7.5 ohms). Next I covered them with heat shrink. Then made two brass pins from 1/2" x 3/32" x .027" thick sheet metal ( can get this at any hobby store). Bent 1/8" of one end over at 90 degrees and soldered the ends of the resistor to the pins. This whole unit now plugs into the corresponding terminals ( wire color coding mentioned in previous posts) in the plug head almost flush. See pics below. I then tie wrapped a thick guage plastic bag around the plug head and then wrapped the whole thing with black electrical tape and tucked it back under the tank. Worked like a charm!!!!!!!!! :riding

:secret: Many thanks to all that posted info on this topic, in particular Eyespy & elegalr1der. I also agree totally with vcyclenut on the issue of why spend $100 when for a few bucks and 1 hour max of tinkering works beautifully. I would also like to add my 2 cents worth for anyone not wanting to cut off the plug head from the harness, in the event that at some time in the future you may want to return to the stock setup for what ever reason. I ended up using 3 resistors (1/4 watt) soldered in series to make up the 7.5 ohms ( couldn't find a single or 2 to make up the 7.5 ohms). Next I covered them with heat shrink. Then made two brass pins from 1/2" x 3/32" x .027" thick sheet metal ( can get this at any hobby store). Bent 1/8" of one end over at 90 degrees and soldered the ends of the resistor to the pins. This whole unit now plugs into the corresponding terminals ( wire color coding mentioned in previous posts) in the plug head almost flush. See pics below. I then tie wrapped a thick guage plastic bag around the plug head and then wrapped the whole thing with black electrical tape and tucked it back under the tank. Worked like a charm!!!!!!!!! :riding True and yes your install is cleaner than most and it does clear the code but that's just it, it just clears the code. It's working but it doesn't mean it's working the way it was intended to and that was my concern that's why I went with the sam servo. Quote: vcyclenut if the < $1 resistor gets rid of the error code why would a $100 part be worth it??? never mind i read the site Quote: Eyespy You can do one of the following: 1) reinstall the servomotor but not the actuating cables. 2) install a 7.5K Ohm resister in place of the servomotor. 3) install a ServoSub from Samanna Systems (Sam Farris), the best option in my opinion. It's about $100 or so. http://www.samannasystems.com/chart.html http://www.samannasystems.com/dyno.html

The bike runs great! The code 17 and engine light is only a warning to let you know there is a malfunction in the Exup servo motor. This fix clears the code and engine warning light so that if something else should fail on the bike the light is a least free to come on again. If you like to throw your money away, that is entirely your choice. However, not all of us have money to burn. True and yes your install is cleaner than most and it does clear the code but that's just it, it just clears the code. It's working but it doesn't mean it's working the way it was intended to and that was my concern that's why I went with the sam servo. Quote: vcyclenut if the < $1 resistor gets rid of the error code why would a $100 part be worth it??? never mind i read the site Quote: Eyespy You can do one of the following: 1) reinstall the servomotor but not the actuating cables. 2) install a 7.5K Ohm resister in place of the servomotor. 3) install a ServoSub from Samanna Systems (Sam Farris), the best option in my opinion. It's about $100 or so. http://www.samannasystems.com/chart.html http://www.samannasystems.com/dyno.html

The bike runs great! The code 17 and engine light is only a warning to let you know there is a malfunction in the Exup servo motor. This fix clears the code and engine warning light so that if something else should fail on the bike the light is a least free to come on again. If you like to throw your money away, that is entirely your choice. However, not all of us have money to burn. If you would have click on the links you would have seen that the sam servo is doing a lot more than just turning off an engine check light. All I did was state the fact about the differences between the two and showed the true quotes from vcyclenut & Eyespy said thats all. Throwing money away, burning money I don't know where all that come from over a 100.00 part your kidding right. All I'm going to say is you get what you pay for. Thats like saying a full Graves Evo exhaust system is the same is a micron slipon because they do more or less of the same thing. Yeah I guess I'll be throwing my money away on the full Graves system. Come on man.

If you would have click on the links you would have seen that the sam servo is doing a lot more than just turning off an engine check light. All I did was state the fact about the differences between the two and showed the true quotes from vcyclenut & Eyespy said thats all. Throwing money away, burning money I don't know where all that come from over a 100.00 part your kidding right. All I'm going to say is you get what you pay for. Thats like saying a full Graves Evo exhaust system is the same is a micron slipon because they do more or less of the same thing. Yeah I guess I'll be throwing my money away on the full Graves system. Come on man. Whatever Dude!:hammer: It's very clear that the only opinion that counts is your own, even when there are other proven choices. Also, you should take your own advice and read all of the info on the Sam's site especially the part where they mention, by their own admission, that regardless which of the three methods you use (their servo, a jumper, or the 7.5 ohm resistor) the difference on the dyno was neglidible. And, judging from your sig, money is not a worry for you:flex:

Whatever Dude!:hammer: It's very clear that the only opion that counts is your own, even when there are other proven choices. And, judging from your sig, money is not a worry for you:flex: :dollar :yesnod :fact :cool:

I know this is an old post, but because of this post I bought the servo sub and have not had any problems with my bike at all. I highly recommend buying it!

I know this is an old post, but because of this post I bought the servo sub and have not had any problems with my bike at all. I highly recommend buying it! In contrast, I did the 7.5Kohm resistor fix and my CEL came on last night after about 3 weeks of riding. It is reading code 17. So it appears the resistor fix does not work for everyone.

just finished using 4 1/4 2.2 ohm resistors works fine code is gone

Does anyone know if these are the same color wires for fixing this issue on an '05? Thanks

Try the 04-06 guys.... or get the Graves ELY now that they have the bugs worked out.

do error clodes just clear themselves after bike is fixed / do I have / mecanic remove it . 02 R1

What's the difference between the Samanna Systems and Graves EXUP servo eliminator?

^^^ Anybody??

^^^ Anybody?? What's your question?