I have Ivan's jet kit sitting in my garage waiting to be installed in my 98 R1 which is stock except for an M4 slip-on. I've never messed with motorcycle carbs before but I think I can handle this job since I'm very mechanically inclined. So basically I just remove the carb assembly, drill out the brass caps, adjust the mixture screws, and install the new needles right? Wish someone had a pictorial of this job somewhere; it would make things easier :( I was planning on installing the jet kit myself and then taking the bike to my friendly Yamaha dealer to have the carbs resynched. If anyone can give some advice here, I'd appreciate it 'cause I don't want to **** up my bike.

Thanks,
Jeremy

R1's have downdraft carbs. You will drop a lb of smeg right onto the tops of your intake valves if you pluck the carbs without thoroughly cleaning them. Alternatively, you can pay some dork at the local grease pit to drop a lb of smeg right onto the tops of your intake valves for you, no extra charge. Really. Get a manual. Look at the pictures. Have fun. You will almost always do a better job on your own bike. If you are inexperienced, buy a lot of fancy tools and pretend to know what you're doing. That way your friends will let you practice on their bikes. Hey, worked for me. :)

Get a fresh philips head socket or similar 90º device for removing the float bowl screws. Its like they welded the little bastards in there.

Unless you've had the airbox off before, the clamps that hold that on are another terror. After you chew out the heads of the screws, grab the other end with a vice-grip to loosen them. It's ok to booger up the ends of the screws, you don't need to loosen them that much.

Ivan told me to put the mixture screws at 4 turns out. Mine were set with a gas analyser and ended up closer to three. Before you go that fat (4 turns), make sure you need to.

Here is some info here too:

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1233

hahaha rrr thats funny as hell mine was the exact same way !! Chew up them screws boy hehe :lol

Hey, i fitted my ivans kit to my r1 on saturday morning, and iwas tempted to take some pix but i didnt! doh!

How did i get on... well, bit fiddly but if you take your time you are okay.

Got seat, tank, airbox off easy. The most fiddly bit for me was getting the carbs off the actual cylinder head... the little allen bolts which hold the clips on were fiddly to get to. Then, when i got the carbs off, i discovered that a previous owner had already removed the brass plugs!

The ivans kit didnt come with any fitting instructions, and i didnt have a workshop manual for the bike, but ive done carbs before so i knew where things were. The main jets are under the float cover... side of carbs nearest to the seat. 3 phillips screws will lift that out... watch the petrol which runs out. If you are using the exup & stock downpipes then you leave the mainjet as a 130. If you are running a 4->1 aftermarket system then use the 132.5 main jets.

The needles... you have to undo the 2 screws which hold each of the black covers on the side nearest to the headstock. Watchout as theres a big spring behind them. Then pull the diaphram out (make sure you put it back in the right way around), and the needle etc...

Use a long nosed pair of plyers to pull the white retaining bung out which holds the needle in place... watchout for a small spring there... and a small shim/washer which is on top of the needles e-clip.

All in all, took me 2 carefull hours to do mine. Bike started first time, and now seems more responsive at low revs (upto 8k) with my stock downpipes, exup & race can.

Not sure about top-end... seems to be the same as before.

Im also getting a lot of popping on the overrun now, more than previously..... is that a sign that the mixture is too weak? Im running the mixture screws at 3.5 turns out..... and the idle is a bit lumpy (rev needle floats between 1100 & 1300 rpm)..... is that a sign that the carbs need balancing?

Cheers.

Thanks guys, this helps a lot. I think I can handle this job now that I have something to go on :) I'm assuming I just reuse any o-rings or gaskets when I take this apart correct? I'll post more here when I'm done.

-Jeremy

Yup, nothing gets consumed in the process. The "fiddly" (turbonutter was being VERY kind) 3mm allen screws on the carb spigots are best attacked with a flex extension. Looks like a regular extension only different :) It bends. I might be really stupid but I have a LOT of trouble distinguishing between the upper (carb to spigot) clamps and the lower (spigot to head) clamps, and often end up loosening one or two of the wrong ones. I also managed once to not fully seat the carbs into the spigots before tightening. I'm not the only one I know to have done this. You can drain the carbs before starting by putting a hose on the little nipple (heh heh) on the bottom of the float bowl and opening the drain screw.

check my site,service section page1,2nd link(carl"s page)there you"ll find a step-by-step right till all there is are the carbs.(up to you after that)nice pics and directions.

if anybody ever get pics of all the process,send them to me please...i need them for my website(no digi camera yet,spending all my money on parts and traffic tickets,lol)

btw,i did that so many times that my record is from a complete bike(no bolts off)to carbs disassembled,re-assembled and back to working bike,20 minutes...lol

OK, the jet kit is done! I took my time and very carefully drilled out the brass plugs and removed them, turned the mixture screws 3.5 turns out from full clockwise, installed the new needles reusing the nylon spacer and the washer on top of the e-clip. Since I only have an M4 slip-on, I left the main jets alone as instructed. One thing that was nice is I was able to remove all 4 brass plugs instead of just drilling through them :) Adjusting the mixture going forward should be a snap. I left the rubber cover that goes over the carbs and head off since it was such a PITA to get it back the way it was. I hope that rubber flap isn't important or anything :rolleyes: Anyway, I fired up the bike on the center stand and let it idle for a few minutes and then snapped the throttle wide open a few times...wow! I can tell it's more responsive already and I haven't even ridden it yet. Throttle response is instant like when I bought the bike new; after I installed the slip-on, I lost some low responsiveness. Hopefully, it's all back now :D
So the bike idles perfectly and seems to run great. Do I really need to get the carbs synched and, if so, what exactly does this procedure do? I don't want the Yamaha dealer monkeys to screw up everything I did. Thanks again for everyone's help ;)

The purpose of carburetor synchronization is to adjust all the carburetors so they have the same air flow through all of the carburetors. If the carburetors are out of synchronization, they will receive different amounts of fuel and air. This will allow each cylinder to have different loads which can overheat the dominate cylinders causing different colors to appear on the header pipes. Carburetor synchronization means adjusting all of the slides or butterflies to the same height at all times.

I would sync the carbs :yesnod

Even tho it may seem ok. It maybe could be better !!

well if you have a teady idle,dont touch it anymore...it will come soon enough.

the rubber flap is a heat shield,put it back and protect the coils.

Would installing the jet kit have affected the carb synchronization? What would the obvious signs be of carbs that were out of synch? I don't think the butterflies moved when I installed the kit. I think I'm going to ride it around for a while and see how it goes. Hmm...so I'm going to fry the coils without the rubber flap eh? Maybe I'll just put some ThermoTec material over the coils instead. I really don't want to put that stupid rubber thing back on unless leaving it out is definitely going to break something.

stupid question?

Would measuring the temperature of each pipe near the engine work as a method to see which of the carburators that are out of sync?

:iamwithst

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Swedie
[B]stupid question?

Would measuring the temperature of each pipe near the engine work as a method to see which of the carburators that are out of sync?

nope,maybe just a pointer for which one is running a bit leaner,but that"s unlikely on an in-line 4.

Ive just bought a carbtuneII carb synroniser... has anyone got any guides or tips on how to sych the r1"s carbs as i havent got a workshop manual for it yet? Please feel free to email them to me at turbonutter@hotmail.com

Cheers.

Heres the manuals :

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1091