How to Change You Oil FiveOh style.

I was just changing my oil tonight and it dawned on me that I have a few little tricks to make the most of the change. So, why not share them with my forum brothers? This applys directly to '02-03 R1s, but it should also work on the current generation. Regardless, test to make sure that the bike will crank without starting before dropping the oil! Here goes: First off you want the bike hot. So run it standing still until the fan kicks on (~220*), then shut it down and get right to work. This assures that the oil is as thin as it gets in order to drain as much as possible. Most people know this, but it's worth mentioning. Go ahead and drain the oil and remove the filter. Wait until the oil stops. Make sure your bike is in neutral. Now with the filter and drain plug still out comes the first trick. Put the bike into diagnostic mode. While holding both buttons on the cluster turn the key to run. Continue to hold down the buttons until it displays "diag". Release the buttons and then press and hold them again until it says "d01:xx". In diagnostic mode the fuel injectors are disabled. Crank the bike for 10-15 seconds and watch how much more dirty oil comes out. Mostly from the filter boss. Another common trick is to pre-fill the filter with oil. Do it! Pour it right up to the brim and wait for it to soak into the media. Then fill it up once more. Reinstall the filter and drain plug. Pour in the remainder of the quart you just used, two more full quarts and another splash. Cap it and then do the diag trick again. Cranking once more for about 15 seconds. This assures the the filter and the rest of the oiling path is primed and ready to go. Turn the key off, then back on again to clear out of diag mode. Start the bike and run it for about 15 more seconds, shut it down and wait 1 minute or so for the oil to settle. Then top off according to the window. Hope this helps! Maybe this should be made a sticky? :riding

Sounds like a good plan to me - just not so sure about running the bike for 15 sec with no oil ? :thumbup

You aren't running the bike. When it is in diag mode displaying "d01:xx" the bike will not fire. Put the kill switch to off if it make you feel better. You are mearly cranking the motor, no harm done.

New info for me - Never heard of it being done but does should like a great idea..

Originally posted by FOZZ New info for me - Never heard of it being done but does should like a great idea.. :iamwithst I will give it a try...thanx

I have a question. I'm kinda new to bikes and is there any special oil filter wrench I should use or just channel locks with a towel over the teeth.?

The local parts store should have ratchet drive filter wrenches that go over the end of it. Strap wrenches work too. Channel locks will get it off, but you needd to make sure it's on tight, and channel locks are a no-no for that.

Thats why I was askin. I have a normal wrench that I use to change my Evo's oil, but I don't think it will reach on the bike. Plus, I'll probably burn my hand trying to get the oil filter off and on. Is there any technique to put the filter on so when I tip it to put it on I don't spill oil?

If you fill the filter up twice, it should just about absorb enough that it wont spill. The filter goes on horizontally, so you can't leave too much in there.

Thanks man, you been a real help. I usually figure out things by trial and error, but I don't wanna mess up anything.

Here is a tip if you are looking for something to take off your oil filter with. I have a '04 and it doesn't have much clearance between the filter and the exhaust, so a strap or one of these (image below) works great. If you can't find one I know snap-on carries them. Oh and one more thing you forgot to mention is to put a light coat of oil on the rubber seal around filter before installing it.

Yup, I debated on whether to mention it or not. Couldn't decide whether to just tell my tricks, or full blown how-to. :)

I just figured I would mention it. Some guys might have never changed their oil before, and will try doing it based on what is on this tread. It is actually really simple to do; maybe the hardest thing to do is take off the lower plastics and figure out how to take off the filter without getting 3rd degree burns on your hand (oh gloves help also around the pipes). If I remember correctly it tells you how to do it in the manual.

my trick for not getting burned..... remove fairings... start bike.... turn off bike.... remove drain plug... and filler cap.... then let oil drain and pipes cool.... then remove filter with above mentioned oil filter wrench.... haven't been burned once doing in that way

WTF do u guys have huge ass monkey hands or something... i've had no problem not getting my hands near the pipes. Besides a few burns will toughen ya up for the future ;-) :rock

You know what they say big hands, Big... Gloves:finger

what big hairy patches on the palms to go with them :finger LOL

ok so I asked the monkeys at eh yammy steelership about prepping the oil filter before putting it on, and I was told not to put any additional oil on it, and to just put it on dry. Can't remember why exactly but I do remember they told me specifically not to prime the filter with oil before I put it on. Are they full of shit again?

Well I typically prime the filter before putting it on. I usually don't put a lot in but I have always done it that way I don't see why it would hurt to prime the filter. However they are not talking about the rubber seal that should always be done.

I can't believe they told you that. If you leave it dry there will be a 2-3 second delay before any oil gets to the top end.

Cranking the motor without oil pressure is one thing. But you never want it to fire without the ability to build pressure right away. There is always a delay between the engine firing and full pressure, but leaving the filter dry extends this quite a bit. Worst of all, leaving the main bearings without the pressure needed to control the loads from combustion. Here is the path oil takes:

On a Suzuki (sorry for swearing here) if you hold them full throttle the engine will crank but it will not start. I have a feeling the Yamaha is the same. If that's true it would be easier to just hold the throttle pinned and crank :thumbup There will always be those who say "What if it starts ? " "You'll blow your engine" etc ...... so flame away :2bitchsla

Thanks FiveOh. I took off my fairing and disconnected the left turn signal. Drained the oil and took off the oil filter. WTF, when I took off my oil filter the oil dripped on one of the header pipes. Is that supposed to happen? Oh well, I wiped it off, and went on a 10 minute ride in 25 degree weather :crash . Thanks for the advice man! :bow

Originally posted by SyZyGy and disconnected the left turn signal. :dunno ?

Originally posted by fiveoh :dunno ? :iamwithst :confused: :dunno

I had to disconnect the turn signal to remove the lower left fairing, so the oil from the drain plug doesn't get all over the heat shielding, and to get easy access to the oil filter. Did I do too much? :confused:

yeah you did..... you only have to remove the lower fairings... the mid fairings won't get oil on them... atleast they shouldn't

I have a 600r right now, and the fairing setup is kinda different. I don't have a R1 yet. :(

Thanks for tip fiveo I made a copy of this to keep with my service manual I have an 05 so hopefully this will work if anybody finds out it will not please post. Thanks again.:rock

Yup it'll work. You just got to test the diag mode stuff first and be sure that you can get it to crank without firing.

Thanks again fiveoh:hellobye

Originally posted by ===>R1<=== :iamwithst I will give it a try...thanx its called a clean oil change and its the best way to insure you have no crap left over in your engine from your old oil. good post fiveoh! :thumbup

What would the best way to do this on a 2000 R1? It would hurt anything to close the petcock and let it run out of gas so I could crank it for the oilchang would it. WES

on a 2000 r1... the better bet would probably be to life the tank.... and pull the plugs... this way you know it won't start or more to the point... plug wires is what i ment....

Originally posted by R101 What would the best way to do this on a 2000 R1? It would hurt anything to close the petcock and let it run out of gas so I could crank it for the oilchang would it. WES Yup, that would work fine. Run it out of gas then make sure to try cranking a number of times to make sure it will not fire. I would have my thumb on the kill switch also.

Bump - so I can find this shit easier next time I change my oil! :lol

:lol (I wish someone would change the you to your in the title :sing: )

:lol (I wish someone would change the you to your in the title :sing: ) LOL :lol

I can't believe they told you that. If you leave it dry there will be a 2-3 second delay before any oil gets to the top end. :rock Nice tips. I've never heard anything bad about priming oil filters, those techs are probably full of shit.

it won't hurt anything to not put oil in the filter, but certainly it's better if you do. turning the motor over with no oil in it, or the filter empty won't hurt anything. if it did no car would last past four or five cold starts. They make oil filter pliars. They are the best thing I have found to use. MY old Honda 647 Hawk GT said to turn the engine over with the kill switch off several times to get all the oil out. In the factory Honda service manual.

it won't hurt anything to not put oil in the filter, but certainly it's better if you do. turning the motor over with no oil in it, or the filter empty won't hurt anything. if it did no car would last past four or five cold starts. Turning the engine over while there is no oil in the sump or filter is fine. Having the engine fire before the filter is full and therefore before there is oil pressure is definitely potentially damaging.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=16349&group_ID=1535&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog These are the type of pliars I have found to be most useful. On a 98-01 R1 it would be way easier to just unplug the coils with the one connector, then removing the air box, coils and caps, then plugs. I know what you mean Five, but honestly it happenes everyday and how many times does a motor lock up? Hopw many places do you know that actually pre fill the filter? I cannot think of one commercial place that does this. It is the BEST WAY BY FAR, but if you don't do it you won't hurt anything. oil clings to metal, if it did not no motor would make it past four or five cold starts. You would be shocked how long a motor will idle after the oil have been drained out of it. Typical american shit box car will go 20-30 minutes before seizing.

Those are awesome SnapOn pliers except I do not need them because my K@N filter has a nut on the end for torquing the filter on and for removing it.:rock I love SnapOn stuff and he loves me too.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=16349&group_ID=1535&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog These are the type of pliars I have found to be most useful. On a 98-01 R1 it would be way easier to just unplug the coils with the one connector, then removing the air box, coils and caps, then plugs. I know what you mean Five, but honestly it happenes everyday and how many times does a motor lock up? Hopw many places do you know that actually pre fill the filter? I cannot think of one commercial place that does this. It is the BEST WAY BY FAR, but if you don't do it you won't hurt anything. oil clings to metal, if it did not no motor would make it past four or five cold starts. You would be shocked how long a motor will idle after the oil have been drained out of it. Typical american shit box car will go 20-30 minutes before seizing. No, it probably won't cause your engine to lock up. Oil does leave a nice film that allows everything to slip and slide fine without galling or wear when you are turning the engine over. Once it fires, the force put through the piston, into the wrist pin, into the rod and main bearings is very large. Without oil pressure forcing it's way into these hydraulic bearings they don't work. The oil film is not enough to keep metal on metal contact from happening. This creates wear, and possibly particles in the oil. I know we both agree that either way works, and this way has definite benefits.

So, this process will work on an 04-06 model? Getting to diagnostics is the same? Thanks fiveoh. :thumbup

Anyone? Anyone? 04-06 model for $1000? :lol

this method is great, been doin it for the last year. thanks fiveoh

I ALWAYS fill the filter of any bike I get in at work before installing it. I don't think it's going to cause catasrophic damage without doing this instantly, it'll accelerate wear to a degree though possibly but on todays modern FI bikes that you can't control the idle speed when they first startup, you're just covering all bases by priming the filter first. It's a marked difference in the speed the oil light goes out after the filter's been primed. At the end of the day, if in doubt, prime the filter...

Sounds like a good plan to me - just not so sure about running the bike for 15 sec with no oil ? :thumbup http://www.s2ki.com/forums/html/emoticons/iagree.gif 15 seconds is a hell of a long time to spin a motor with no oil in it with the plugs firing or not.

I know what you mean Five, but honestly it happenes everyday and how many times does a motor lock up? Hopw many places do you know that actually pre fill the filter? I cannot think of one commercial place that does this. It is the BEST WAY BY FAR, but if you don't do it you won't hurt anything. oil clings to metal, if it did not no motor would make it past four or five cold starts. You would be shocked how long a motor will idle after the oil have been drained out of it. Typical american shit box car will go 20-30 minutes before seizing. Fiveoh, cranking the engine is really good only when you have a newly rebuild motor. Then yes it makes sense to be so carefull. Other from that, as lots of ppl said here, its not a problem. Keep your motor at around 2000rpm, even if you didnt fill up the oil filter it l take a few secs to bring the oil around. Going to such extermes to lift tank (possibly steering damper if you have a ducati style one) in order to disconnect the coils is just too much for me. In the 5PW its easier with the diagnostic mode. Personally I would recommend instead of cranking etc etc, just change your oil as possible as you can! Especially, if you are using good/synthetic oils, just dont bother to crank the motor. Change the oil filter, start it up, keep it to 2000rpm for about 5 secs. It doesnt really matter if a bit of "dirty" synthetic oil stays in the oil passages, as you will find, especially if you change your oil often, its not so "dirty" after all! Regards,

Fiveoh, cranking the engine is really good only when you have a newly rebuild motor. Then yes it makes sense to be so carefull. Other from that, as lots of ppl said here, its not a problem. Keep your motor at around 2000rpm, even if you didnt fill up the oil filter it l take a few secs to bring the oil around. Going to such extermes to lift tank (possibly steering damper if you have a ducati style one) in order to disconnect the coils is just too much for me. In the 5PW its easier with the diagnostic mode. Personally I would recommend instead of cranking etc etc, just change your oil as possible as you can! Especially, if you are using good/synthetic oils, just dont bother to crank the motor. Change the oil filter, start it up, keep it to 2000rpm for about 5 secs. It doesnt really matter if a bit of "dirty" synthetic oil stays in the oil passages, as you will find, especially if you change your oil often, its not so "dirty" after all! Regards, Do you have any real info to back your claims up? It sounds like you are contradicting yourself. You say cranking is only okay on a fresh motor, then you say that running the engine for a few seconds with no oil pressure is fine. Both statements are bunk. If anybody has questions about this, great. If you don't subscribe to this method, that's fine. But the purpose of this thread isn't to debate what I already know. I anyone really needs to debate the points I've made, let's get another thread going.

Do you have any real info to back your claims up? It sounds like you are contradicting yourself. You say cranking is only okay on a fresh motor, then you say that running the engine for a few seconds with no oil pressure is fine. Both statements are bunk. Where is the contrdiction? I am saying to you that in a newly rebuild motor that there is no oil at all, makes sence to crank a bit the engine to make the oil move around to the oil passages etc... However when you changing the oil all these are filled up already only the oil filter is empty, just keep the motor 2000+ for a few seconds and it will also filled up! What info you have in mind/require in order to back up my claims? If anybody has questions about this, great. If you don't subscribe to this method, that's fine. But the purpose of this thread isn't to debate what I already know. I anyone really needs to debate the points I've made, let's get another thread going. Ok ok ... sometimes we do one thing in our way and we think its the most optimized method given our situation. All I was trying to say is that for older R1's and possibly for others makes /setup's its not the easiest thing... I didnt intent to open a debate here. Best Regards,

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Where is the contrdiction? I am saying to you that in a newly rebuild motor that there is no oil at all, makes sence to crank a bit the engine to make the oil move around to the oil passages etc... However when you changing the oil all these are filled up already only the oil filter is empty, just keep the motor 2000+ for a few seconds and it will also filled up! What info you have in mind/require in order to back up my claims? Ok ok ... sometimes we do one thing in our way and we think its the most optimized method given our situation. All I was trying to say is that for older R1's and possibly for others makes /setup's its not the easiest thing... I didnt intent to open a debate here. Best Regards, I never said that it was the easiest method, and I didn't present it for older carbureted models (though it can be done). It is the best method for eliminating the unnecessary wear that occurs after an oil change and extracting every possible bit of old, contaminated oil. BTW, a freshly rebuilt motor should have every component already coated with oil and/or assembly lube, so I'm not sure that I see your point. I have stated why having an engine fire off, seconds before oil pressure builds and thus allowing the hydraulic bearings which support a MASSIVE load to work, causes wear. You can't come in here ans simply say "just run your engine at 2000rpm until oil pressure builds, it wont hurt anything". You have to present your interpretation, in technical terms, of how I am wrong.

IFirst off you want the bike hot. So run it standing still until the fan kicks on (~220*), then shut it down and get right to work. I like the concept (use diag mode) but one needs to outline that you want the complete block to be hot, not just the water cooling. If you start a cold bike and heat it up as mentioned, the gear box still will be rather cold. So, when doing it on a cold bike, let it idle first, until the gearbox is hot. This will take several "fan cycles" Juerg

I like the concept (use diag mode) but one needs to outline that you want the complete block to be hot, not just the water cooling. If you start a cold bike and heat it up as mentioned, the gear box still will be rather cold. So, when doing it on a cold bike, let it idle first, until the gearbox is hot. Juerg This is a good point. But think about this... What heats the water to that temp in the first place? The crankcase, jugs, and head. They first have to be heated to transfer this energy to the coolant. The entire engine is aluminum, which is very thermally conductive and quickly wicks heat to all the far corners. So, running the bike until you have heated the coolant to 220* puts a lot of heat through the engine/trans, and by the time you get it drained out, the heat has continued to transfer to the oil.

I never said that it was the easiest method, and I didn't present it for older carbureted models (though it can be done). It is the best method for eliminating the unnecessary wear that occurs after an oil change and extracting every possible bit of old, contaminated oil. . Lars m8 look you said for the "forum brothers" so I just said that its not the easiest to be done with older R1 thats all. I said it as a brother not to start debating. BTW, a freshly rebuilt motor should have every component already coated with oil and/or assembly lube, so I'm not sure that I see your point. Fiveoh think about it m8 you said it yourself, "coated". Yes coated but what about all these small tubes that they exist all around the cases, head lala lala lala... And they all fill up will oil only when the oil pump starts working and pushing the oil around! I wish a motor will run with just coating everything with oil /lube but... Anyway to be more precise in a newly rebuild motor you have just join the cases, one thing you do directly when you separate them is wash them and then use compressed air to blow up the oil passages. So all passages are empty (only air inside). So it will take more than a few secs here for the oil pump to build up oil pressure. This is not the case when we are talking for an oil change! Clear enough? I have stated why having an engine fire off, seconds before oil pressure builds and thus allowing the hydraulic bearings which support a MASSIVE load to work, causes wear. You can't come in here ans simply say "just run your engine at 2000rpm until oil pressure builds, it wont hurt anything". You have to present your interpretation, in technical terms, of how I am wrong. I am not sure what you have stated. And much more I am not sure how you measured the wearing involved and found out that its considerable. Surely my point was simple enough: in 2-3 secs even if you have empty filter oil pressure will be build. Have you measure it ever and found its not the case? Did you measure the wear in these 2-3 secs and found that is a considerable one? On the other hand you may say how I would prove my point. Well last 20-30 years oil changes all over the world all over the vehicles with the method they do it... How often you replace say the crank bearings in your car? Surely they dont fill up the oil filter in your local garage! Regards, and still I didnt want a debate, so thats my last... PS: You have an 02 race bike, ask your tuner to see what he says.

I am the tuner.

2007 owners beware, bike will start in diag mode.

I think one of the magazines did a test where they drained the oil and ran a bike to see how long before the engine seized. I think they ran it for like 15 minutes and nothing happened. They shut it down, re-filled with oil and the bike started up and ran with no problems. I'm gonna see if I can find the article.

I think one of the magazines did a test where they drained the oil and ran a bike to see how long before the engine seized. I think they ran it for like 15 minutes and nothing happened. They shut it down, re-filled with oil and the bike started up and ran with no problems. I'm gonna see if I can find the article. You sure that wasn't a z-max commercial? :crash

2007 owners beware, bike will start in diag mode. What was displayed on the cluster when it started?

error code 4, I would bet a beer it means low or no oil.

hey does the r1 have an oil cooler like the gixxer cause i dont see it.

error code 4, I would bet a beer it means low or no oil. If you are really in diag mode, it shouldn't be displaying error codes.

hey does the r1 have an oil cooler like the gixxer cause i dont see it. Yup, it's an oil/water cooler, not an oil/air like the gixxer. It's that nub sticking out towards the headers.

i remember that magazine article. they cooked a zx6 or zx7 running it without oil. it did run for quite a while. man thats old article.. that was back in like 93 or so.

On a Suzuki (sorry for swearing here) if you hold them full throttle the engine will crank but it will not start. Any truth to this.....or does a superzook even have a diagnostic mode? i remember that magazine article. they cooked a zx6 or zx7 running it without oil. it did run for quite a while. man thats old article.. that was back in like 93 or so. I've heard a few stories as well about them draining oil out of bikes and starting them.....they all ran for a good little while too

FiveOh, thanks for the how to. Worked wonders. I gave it a shot on my '05 R1 and everything worked like a charm even the diagnostic mode worked the same. Excellent writeup. Now, the bitch for me was my Graves headers, to take out the oil drain plug, I had to take the lower header mount loose so I could bend it out of the way. The very left header covers the drain bolt, which I had to remove while very hot.. that sucked, but removing the oil filter was easy. And easier to install the new one. (K&N)

FiveOh, thanks for the how to. Worked wonders. I gave it a shot on my '05 R1 and everything worked like a charm even the diagnostic mode worked the same. Excellent writeup. Now, the bitch for me was my Graves headers, to take out the oil drain plug, I had to take the lower header mount loose so I could bend it out of the way. The very left header covers the drain bolt, which I had to remove while very hot.. that sucked, but removing the oil filter was easy. And easier to install the new one. (K&N) Finally, someone with an '04-06 did it! Thank you. I'm going to give it a try myself.

FiveOh, thanks for the how to. Worked wonders. I gave it a shot on my '05 R1 and everything worked like a charm even the diagnostic mode worked the same. Excellent writeup. Now, the bitch for me was my Graves headers, to take out the oil drain plug, I had to take the lower header mount loose so I could bend it out of the way. The very left header covers the drain bolt, which I had to remove while very hot.. that sucked, but removing the oil filter was easy. And easier to install the new one. (K&N) No problem man. Your problem with the header blocking the drain plug sounds strange to me. you might want to ask another member with the Graves system. Maybe it can be shifted out of the way.

So I guess it still isn't confirmed if the '07s will still start in diag mode? I guess I could try it the next time I change my oil.

Hmmm, I would say ask Bogie, but the way he rides.....he won't be ready for his first service till next febuary :hammer:

Hmmm, I would say ask Bogie, but the way he rides.....he won't be ready for his first service till next febuary :hammer: http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q60/vmaxman06/SMILES/cryingwlaughter.gif

So I guess it still isn't confirmed if the '07s will still start in diag mode? I guess I could try it the next time I change my oil. Why don't you try it now and tell us! :secret:

Hmmm, I would say ask Bogie, but the way he rides.....he won't be ready for his first service till next febuary :hammer: First oil came out a 50miles bish!! :finger

Any one, don't quote me on this, but I heard that in order to get a lot of the old oil out of the engine is too drop a little bit of new old into it. I guess that by doin this it helps some of the old oil move out. Hey again I was tolled this my a mech and I have used it on my car.

Any one, don't quote me on this, but I heard that in order to get a lot of the old oil out of the engine is too drop a little bit of new old into it. I guess that by doin this it helps some of the old oil move out. Hey again I was tolled this my a mech and I have used it on my car. :confused:

:confused: +1 You would not have believed all the old ass oil spewing out when I hit the starter (in diag mode).

Alright Fiveoh, soon going to change the oil on my bike and this might sound funny, but just want to make sure. While the bike is on Diog mode, by cranking the motor you mean hitting the starter and holding it for 15 seconds. Or do you mean hitting it for 15 seconds that logically would be 15 times?

Alright Fiveoh, soon going to change the oil on my bike and this might sound funny, but just want to make sure. While the bike is on Diog mode, by cranking the motor you mean hitting the starter and holding it for 15 seconds. Or do you mean hitting it for 15 seconds that logically would be 15 times? I'll usually break it up into two 8 second or so cranks, with a couple seconds in between so the starter doesn't get too hot.

good help, just did an oil change on the bike last weekend though. makes me want to do it again... :-) this might work on a car as well. just have to figure a way so the car doesn't fire. what do you guys think?

on way would be to pull the fuel pump fuse and run the car till it starves the engine of fuel. then do your oil change. crank it over when done. then re-install the fuse... is this a hijack?

Thanks Fiveoh, I asked because at one point I though that you had to hold the starter for 15 seconds! Ill change the oil on Friday, looking forward to it.

Thanks FiveOh!!!! I just did it on my 04, I was amazed at how much oil came out of the filter hole!!! Appreciate it!!

Any suggestions on how to crank an 07 over without it firing please ?

I would suggest trying the same exact method with oil in it to make sure it works

Any suggestions on how to crank an 07 over without it firing please ? pulling the fuel pump fuse sounds like a viable solution.

Great thread i did my oil change on saturday. everything worked out great. thanks alot for this.

pulling the fuel pump fuse sounds like a viable solution. Has anyone actually tried the original method I posted on an '07? I don't know why Yamaha would change it, or why we are hunting for alternatives before trying it.

Hi, DROUGE posted a warning on page # 3 that this method won't work for 07. Will try and simulate it tonight to see.

Has anyone actually tried the original method I posted on an '07? I don't know why Yamaha would change it, or why we are hunting for alternatives before trying it. It is coming to me that "people" aren't smart enough to just try it before draining the oil and removing the filter. All it takes is holding down the buttons... Hell, my friend just purchased an '07 R1... When I see him, I'll give it a shot.. I have a HELL of a hard time believing that it will start in Diag mode.. I doubt it was completely in Diag mode. Did he hold the buttons again to see the TPS sensors? or did it just read.. DIAG?

It is coming to me that "people" aren't smart enough to just try it before draining the oil and removing the filter. All it takes is holding down the buttons... Hell, my friend just purchased an '07 R1... When I see him, I'll give it a shot.. I have a HELL of a hard time believing that it will start in Diag mode.. I doubt it was completely in Diag mode. Did he hold the buttons again to see the TPS sensors? or did it just read.. DIAG? :yesnod

I'm about to change the oil in my '07 now...I will try this method and post back.

Operation change '07 oil "fiveoh" style was a success! An '07 will NOT start in Diag mode. Fiveoh, thanks for sharing your oil change method. I was a bit surprised to see just how much dirty oil came out the engine when I cranked it for 15 sec.

Operation change '07 oil "fiveoh" style was a success! An '07 will NOT start in Diag mode. Fiveoh, thanks for sharing your oil change method. I was a bit surprised to see just how much dirty oil came out the engine when I cranked it for 15 sec. :thumbup I'm glad someone actually tried it.

very good info, i will make sure to do it from now on. :thumbup

It is coming to me that "people" aren't smart enough to just try it before draining the oil and removing the filter. All it takes is holding down the buttons... Hell, my friend just purchased an '07 R1... When I see him, I'll give it a shot.. I have a HELL of a hard time believing that it will start in Diag mode.. I doubt it was completely in Diag mode. Did he hold the buttons again to see the TPS sensors? or did it just read.. DIAG? It will start if it just reads DIAG. Happened to me last night. Ran for a couple of seconds before I hit the kill switch. I didn't do the second part cutting the injectors. My mistake. Filled it with oil and fired it up. Heard some rattling on the bottom end until the oil picked up in the pump. Then it smoothed out. Ran it around the block with no issues. The only thing I didn't like was the oil spit out pretty good missing the oil pan. Chris

I'll usually break it up into two 8 second or so cranks, with a couple seconds in between so the starter doesn't get too hot. ahh good tips, i usually stand the bike up and bounce it around for a while. Ive never knew you could disable spark so easily :thumbup

Operation change '07 oil "fiveoh" style was a success! An '07 will NOT start in Diag mode. Fiveoh, thanks for sharing your oil change method. I was a bit surprised to see just how much dirty oil came out the engine when I cranked it for 15 sec. :rock Glad you tried it. I figured the member that posted the warning way back was a slice short of a loaf when trying it.

Damn people if you want to clean your engine, this is the way to do it. Thanx Fiveoh I change my oil today and it was amazing. everything that stays in the engine comes out when you do this. But if someone is going to do this, make sure you have something under the header, because a lot of oil comes out, and if you leave oil that drips to the headers then you get white smoke coming out of the plastics. Believe I know this my experience.

Well done FiveOh. :rock Did an oil change today - getting bike ready for a weeks trip to Southern France. I couldn't believe how much oil came out when I did this. :bow Great bit of advice, and I will always do this.:thumbup

this is one of the best how-to's. i just did my second oil change using your method and it works great. i wish my car could do this as well. i also have a full graves exhaust and the header is blocking the bolt a bit. i was able to squeeze my wrench in there though somehow and loosened the bolt. im guessing other exhaust systems dont have this problem. its only about an 1/8 of an inch to close to the drain plug.

this is one of the best how-to's. i just did my second oil change using your method and it works great. i wish my car could do this as well. i also have a full graves exhaust and the header is blocking the bolt a bit. i was able to squeeze my wrench in there though somehow and loosened the bolt. im guessing other exhaust systems dont have this problem. its only about an 1/8 of an inch to close to the drain plug. You can do it with most older cars without the distributor-less ignition. Simply remove the coil-plug wire from the coil or distributor (whichever is easier) and Voila! no spark. Crank her over to your hearts content. Now with newer cars with the Coil-over-plug it's a PITA because you have to remove 4 or 6 or 8 plug wires :(

You can do it with most older cars without the distributor-less ignition. Simply remove the coil-plug wire from the coil or distributor (whichever is easier) and Voila! no spark. Crank her over to your hearts content. Now with newer cars with the Coil-over-plug it's a PITA because you have to remove 4 or 6 or 8 plug wires :( That's true. the beauty of the bikes is that it disables the injectors too, so you aren't spraying down the cylinders with fuel and letting it drip into the crankcase/oil.

Even on the newer distributorless cars all you have to do is unplug the wiring harness to the coil packs or to the cam/crank sensor. Without those it wont spark and if you remove the cam sensor wiring it wont even open the injectors. Even easier si to just pull the fuses for IGN and Fuel Pump.

Bump - so I can find this shit easier next time I change my oil! :lol bump

How do you get it out of diagnostic mode when you are finished?

Key off then on.

:iamwithst

Key off then on. Thanks. I just gave the diagnostic start up a test and my '06 started. I did the keys to diag then again to d01: 16 and when I hit the starter it fired right up. Any suggestions?

Good info here!

Good Info

well i changed my oil using this trick and today my bike wouldnt start and now my battery is dead... when i was doing the oil trick i when it went to dx 101 i pushed the button again and it changed and my fuel pump came on anybody know what could have happened?

You didn't change any settings. Your battery was probably weak and the cranking killed it. Just charge it up.

You didn't change any settings. Your battery was probably weak and the cranking killed it. Just charge it up. can you change the settings? because afther the oil change i let my bike run for at least 30 min. while i topped off the oil and let the oil burn off my headers. i pushe the button several time to try and get back to the right screen then i just turned the key off and then started over.

man i never even thought of doing an oil change this way, thanks 5-0!!!!! i plan on changing my 2008 R1's oil tomorrow, i'll let you know how it turns out

man i never even thought of doing an oil change this way, thanks 5-0!!!!! i plan on changing my 2008 R1's oil tomorrow, i'll let you know how it turns out Any feedback? if you got the injectors to shut off, let me know what you did from the "diag" part. in any case will test it out today. Shout out from India, my first post here :hellobye

Thanks for the write up FiveOh. Just warm enough up here in WI to start preparing the bike for the summer riding season. Mission done, did an oil change, and I am ready and waiting for sunny and warm days.

i got a question. i don't have my manual handy. how much oil is just right? what's the height in the window suppose to be. and what if you have more than that...any serious harm?

The right amount of oil is about halfway up the window with the bike straight up (not on kickstand) with both tires on the ground. Too much oil is a bad thing.

The right amount of oil is about halfway up the window with the bike straight up (not on kickstand) with both tires on the ground. Too much oil is a bad thing.:thumbup:thumbup:thumbup:thumbup:thumbup:thumbup

wow. i did the "puke" technique....started in Diagnostic mode. Man, that motor puked out a bunch of oil. You know what else I noticed...or didn't notice? before without the technique, after filling up with oil, in the window I would notice the older blacker oil mix with the new in the window. This time is all pure honey colored good stuff. thanks alot fellas.

I changed my oil today and followed the steps described but when i cranked my bike in diag mode, there was no oil coming out as described. I tried it numberous times and nothing. I'm wondering this only works on R1 older than 06. Can anyone with an 06 tell me otherwise?

I changed my oil today and followed the steps described but when i cranked my bike in diag mode, there was no oil coming out as described. I tried it numberous times and nothing. I'm wondering this only works on R1 older than 06. Can anyone with an 06 tell me otherwise? Was your bike sitting for a long time before you dropped the oil?

Thanks. I just gave the diagnostic start up a test and my '06 started. I did the keys to diag then again to d01: 16 and when I hit the starter it fired right up. Any suggestions? Did this when the thread was posted & it didnt work for some reason (cant remember what - thought I was as dumb ass ?) Tryed it again - in d01:16 mode - bike started - 05 R1 ?

Hmmm ,don't know why one bike out of many would start. Try thumbing through the dxx's till you hit the battery voltage; try there...

Was your bike sitting for a long time before you dropped the oil? for about 5-10mins after idling to get my oil up to temp.

for about 5-10mins after idling to get my oil up to temp. Yeah, I meant for a long time like weeks. So, you are saying that you warmed it up, pulled the drain plug, took the filter off and cranked and nothing came out?

Yeah, I meant for a long time like weeks. So, you are saying that you warmed it up, pulled the drain plug, took the filter off and cranked and nothing came out? Yea, when I crank it in diag mode, it cycles thru a bunch of dx: ## is that correct?

Yea, when I crank it in diag mode, it cycles thru a bunch of dx: ## is that correct? Yeah, once you see d01 you can hit the start button. So, you bike is turning over, but nothing comes out?

Thanks for the info, but question, when u hit start switch, does oil blast out of filter hole, or bottom bolt hole? Thanks Curby

Filter housing...

Yeah, once you see d01 you can hit the start button. So, you bike is turning over, but nothing comes out? not anything noticeable. slow drip...

Guess your bike's broke! :crash Seems very odd to me that one bike would act like so many others...

Guess your bike's broke! :crash Seems very odd to me that one bike would act like so many others... does the kill switch have to be "ON" or it doesn't matter. I had it on the off position.

The engine is trying to start, turning over, da-na-na-na-na-na?

The engine is trying to start, turning over, da-na-na-na-na-na? I think you need to have the kill switch on the "on" position then. I had it off and nothing was happening. There was no noise; engine was not trying to turn over.

Dude, I asked you like 3 times if it was cranking! :lol That's the whole point...

Dude, I asked you like 3 times if it was cranking! :lol That's the whole point... lol... sorry, I thought you would be able to crank it in the off position like you stated on the first page of the write up so that's what I did. But I see now. I'll have to wait until the next oil change. Thanx bro.

You Could Always Just Crank It Over For 2-3 Seconds With No Oil In It. Won't Hurt Your Bike And You'll Get The Same Effect. The Oil Will Pump Out Immediately, You'll See. It Only Takes A Second Or Two. You're Gonna Be Surprised How Much Comes Out. I Couldn't Believe It. Plus You Don't Get That Mix Anymore In The Window Of The New Oil And The Old Stuff. It's An Awesome Trick. That's The Kind Of Mod I Like To Learn About. Something That Really Helps The Engine Out. I Just Can't Believe All These Times Before I Never Knew About That. Don't Forget To Move Your Oil Pan Slightly Forward, That Stuff Comes Out Like A Fire Hydrant Gushing!!!

I not done this yet on mine, but do you need to put something in front of it to keep oil from blowing on your front tire? Or does it spray out that much? I just wanted to make sure before I did it.

Nah, just center the pan under the filter housing. It doesn't shoot too far...

Nah, just center the pan under the filter housing. It doesn't shoot too far... Thanks Fiveoh!:thumbup

Well I just finished changing the oil - first time I have done that myself in any vehicle in about 20 years. Did as suggested in this thread - check first that it doesn't start in diag mode. No probs there. Had 2 x two litre milk cartons at the ready, to catch the oil. Checked I had the spanner for the sump plug, and an oil filter handle at the ready. Got bike up to temp, then removed plug - used a work glove coz it was hot. Oil comes out pretty quick - filled one container and switched to the other. Finished draining so I took the oil filter off - oil comes out and drips down on the exhaust. No big deal. But the difficult thing was my milk containers were not big enough to catch the oil from both the sump plug and the draining from the oil filter mount - so I ended up with a mess. Then turned the bike over - amazed at how much extra oil came out. OK Filled up the new filter as suggested, screwed that on - no worries. Get my funnel and start adding oil. Hang on, what's that trickling sound - Fu@k, no sump plug... Don't forget to put the sump plug back in... But at least it did flush out a bit more dirty oil, and I didn't waste much! Cleaned the air filter while I was at it - with high pressure air. Amazing how much dirt and dead insect remnants get caught in there too... Looking forward to a big ride tomorrow. Next time I am going to get a bigger catch tray for the oil. Less mess to clean up. And a bit of degreaser for the exhaust to clean the oil off it, just so there's less smoke when it's started. This thread gets my vote as a sticky. :thumbup

suscribed....

Something another member said in a thread the other day has got me thinking about this. I wonder if there's any chance of damage just by turning the engine over. I know there's no force being applied to the bearings and such, but it's still got me thinking. BTW, I've used FiveOH's method twice now, and I love how I can get so much more dirty oil out.

This is no different than cranking the engine any other time.

This is no different than cranking the engine any other time. Good point. That sets my mind at ease a little.

+ Since you just ran the motor to warm it up everything has gotten a fresh bath of oil.

Excellent advice, wish I saw this last week before I changed my oil, but I'll need another one in a month anyway:flex:

Fiveoh style oil change does work on the 07 R1 After pushing both selector buttons after the Diag mode flash the 07 R1 will read d01: 15. Once this is indicated the starter will function but the engine will not run. For all you guys that complain about the hot oil or engine burning your hands..... this is how I do oil changes at my house about every..... well lets just say I change the oil frequently at my house..... and I've never burned my hands. I highly recommend this method.... hell sometimes I drain the oil after a couple hundred miles and just pour the same oil back in the bikes. She loves working on the R1 but I just can't keep her off the Ducati. Maybe I'll let her wrench on the 1098 if she promises not to wear anything.

Fiveoh style oil change does work on the 07 R1 After pushing both selector buttons after the Diag mode flash the 07 R1 will read d01: 15. Once this is indicated the starter will function but the engine will not run. For all you guys that complain about the hot oil or engine burning your hands..... this is how I do oil changes at my house about every..... well lets just say I change the oil frequently at my house..... and I've never burned my hands. I highly recommend this method.... hell sometimes I drain the oil after a couple hundred miles and just pour the same oil back in the bikes. She loves working on the R1 but I just can't keep her off the Ducati. Maybe I'll let her wrench on the 1098 if she promises not to wear anything. That's just showing off! Three beautiful rides.... :)

Very nice! All I usually do is get em laying naked on the bike. Hadn't thought about putting them to work. Great idea!

Very nice! All I usually do is get em laying naked on the bike. Hadn't thought about putting them to work. Great idea! :lol :lol I will have to try this method next time. Just a bit nervous as I am not really mechanically inclined. :fact.

I need to find me one of those oil changers lol

I need to find me one of those oil changers lol If one is good, two might be even better:tocoo:

I just did my oil change. Thanks for the info! Wow, Telgar. Simply Wow!!!

I used this method on my 06 R1 a while ago - and it works 100%. I tried it on my 08 R1 last night and DOH - can't get it right:dunno Not sure if it's finger trouble??? Got d01:16 on the dash - and the starter button does not operate. Any ideas folks:) btw - my oil is not drained - I've only done 30kms (BRAND SPANKING NEW BIKE) - but I need to "crack" this method of oil changing - as it is definitely the best:rock

I used this method on my 06 R1 a while ago - and it works 100%. I tried it on my 08 R1 last night and DOH - can't get it right:dunno Not sure if it's finger trouble??? Got d01:16 on the dash - and the starter button does not operate. Any ideas folks:) btw - my oil is not drained - I've only done 30kms (BRAND SPANKING NEW BIKE) - but I need to "crack" this method of oil changing - as it is definitely the best:rock Strange. They must have changed the 08, as the method described on this thread works fine on my 07.

Try advancing forward through the diag functions to battery voltage. try it there...

Well, well, well. What a FOOL. :dundun: I had the bike in first gear - no wonder it wouldn't "spin over" With the help of the "forum family" - the fiveoh oil change works on my 08 R1 Raven:thumbup Thanks guys - you all rock - G'Day from downunder.

thank you fiveoh! Worked flawlessly and OMG I can't believe how much more oil came out.

hey guys quick question, how often should i be changing my oil? every 10 000 like the manual says or maybe 5000? have done about 4300 on my 08 r1 now so just curious...

hey guys quick question, how often should i be changing my oil? every 10 000 like the manual says or maybe 5000? have done about 4300 on my 08 r1 now so just curious... Depending on how hard you are riding, just use common sense. Also, don't forget to check the oil level regularly; it's pretty common for these bikes to use a little bit of oil over 2-3 thousand miles. I ride pretty hard, and I change my oil about every 2500 miles.

My personal philosophy is that these engines are especially hard on an engine oil. Between the extremely high rpms and the transmission shear alone, oil has it's work cut out for it. If I still rode on the street, I would be changing it at 3000mi max and using top tier synthetic. I change it after two race weekends (4 days of riding) and it still looks ugly. This last time I did a flush with low buck 5w-20 and seafoam before refilling. The valvetrain sounds sooo smooth, no clatter at all, I love it.

My personal philosophy is that these engines are especially hard on an engine oil. Between the extremely high rpms and the transmission shear alone, oil has it's work cut out for it. If I still rode on the street, I would be changing it at 3000mi max and using top tier synthetic. I change it after two race weekends (4 days of riding) and it still looks ugly. This last time I did a flush with low buck 5w-20 and seafoam before refilling. The valvetrain sounds sooo smooth, no clatter at all, I love it. Do you just put the seafoam right into the crankcase? If so how many miles do you ride with the seafoam in there?

Do you just put the seafoam right into the crankcase? If so how many miles do you ride with the seafoam in there? That's the first time I've tried the seafoam in the crankcase. I poured about 3 ounces in there with the flush oil. Just to make sure it didn't mess with the clutch plates I never pulled the lever and just idled and revved it for a few minutes.

That's the first time I've tried the seafoam in the crankcase. I poured about 3 ounces in there with the flush oil. Just to make sure it didn't mess with the clutch plates I never pulled the lever and just idled and revved it for a few minutes. You have not experienced any problems using have you? If it seemed to help you I might go pick some up this afternoon I am changing my oil later today.

You have not experienced any problems using have you? If it seemed to help you I might go pick some up this afternoon I am changing my oil later today. Well, I can't say for sure because I haven't ridden the bike and wont be for another week. Since seafoam is a solvent of sorts I really can't see it causing clutch slippage period. If you do like me and don't disengage it while the seafoam is in there, there's even less of a chance.

Well, I can't say for sure because I haven't ridden the bike and wont be for another week. Since seafoam is a solvent of sorts I really can't see it causing clutch slippage period. If you do like me and don't disengage it while the seafoam is in there, there's even less of a chance. I called Seafoam and talked to one of their techs. He rides Kawasaki's and has been using in his oil as long as he can remember. He said it is oil base and has no solvents in their product. He told me to run it 30 minutes then change the oil and refill with oil and put the Seafoam back in the crankcase. He said that it will keep moisture out which will help clutch life because fibers are mounted using a water base glue. He told me that after the first oil change the oil might get dirtier quicker because it is cleaning the engine. After that it will keep clean because you have basically washed the inside of the motor. He told me to run it in my KX450f and it will do the same as it will on the R1. He said run an ounce to every gallon of gas, and run one tank of it every oil change and it will keep the carbon build up off. I have used this in my wifes Jimmy and it works really good so I don't know why it wouldn't work just as good in the R1.

Good deal. So they say to add it to the new oil and run it until the next change?

Good deal. So they say to add it to the new oil and run it until the next change?Yep that is what he told me and he said that it would also work great in my KX450F. He said that he uses it in all his motorcycles and that he has a Kawasaki that he has had for a long time and has never had a problem with it. He told me that you only needed to run it through your gas tank when you change your oil.:thumbup

Yep that is what he told me and he said that it would also work great in my KX450F. He said that he uses it in all his motorcycles and that he has a Kawasaki that he has had for a long time and has never had a problem with it. He told me that you only needed to run it through your gas tank when you change your oil.:thumbup Did he say how much he uses? I think it specs about 1 ounce per quart of oil.

I tried it between my last oil change at the 1 ounce to 1 quart ratio(3 ounces). Ran it for 2k miles with no ill effects. Clutch is fine.

How did it look coming out? Thin at all?

Did he say how much he uses? I think it specs about 1 ounce per quart of oil. It's 1.5oz per quart in the oil. In the gas it is 1oz per gallon of gas, but you only need to do that just when you change the oil.

Wow...gonna change my oil tomorrow... hope this works, lol!

For some reason, I thought you were supposed to drain the oil/seafoam after a little while.. Guess not. I think I may try it in my r1..

All done, cant believe it was so easy... so thanks for the tips everyone

thank you fiveoh! Worked flawlessly and OMG I can't believe how much more oil came out. Yeah same here shit was great so much more oil came out. and i dont like the old oil mixing with the new glowing green motul oil . i like to see that predators blood in the little window. tahnx again fiveoh.

Dear fiveoh, I tried this method last night on my 05. I went to diagnostic mode, and then pressed the buttons once more to display "d01:13"... The bike immediately started. Tried it again. Same result. I went through the rest of the diagnostic modes but that was the only d01:xx. In any case, my bike still started.

I have a friend of mine that wrenches and he told me that he did not recommend doing this. He says that you are spinning the motor over dry with no oil. He is right or is he wrong he says that I will chance tearing something up that was his warning to me. If anybody has some feedback on this let me know I have only done this once, and he kind of makes sense.

I have a friend of mine that wrenches and he told me that he did not recommend doing this. He says that you are spinning the motor over dry with no oil. He is right or is he wrong he says that I will chance tearing something up that was his warning to me. If anybody has some feedback on this let me know I have only done this once, and he kind of makes sense. This has all been discussed. If you want to know, just read the thread.

Just tried this and it worked great. Like others have said a lot of oil comes out during the diagnostic cranking. Oh and earlier in the thread people were talking about an article where they tried basically destroying a bike motor by running it without oil. I think this is the one they are talking about for anyone who is curious. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/AngryWasp/bikekill1-1.jpg

Just tried this and it worked great. Like others have said a lot of oil comes out during the diagnostic cranking. Oh and earlier in the thread people were talking about an article where they tried basically destroying a bike motor by running it without oil. I think this is the one they are talking about for anyone who is curious. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/AngryWasp/bikekill1-1.jpg Amazing that a Kawasaki withstood this.

Amazing that a Kawasaki withstood this. But... They run so shitty anyway, do you think they would have even been able to tell if they broke something? :crash

Curious, when I enter diagnostic mode, it say's d01:16. Will the bike fire?

Curious, when I enter diagnostic mode, it say's d01:16. Will the bike fire? If you haven't drained the oil yet, just try to start it in diagnostic mode and see what happens. My 2005 started in d01:13... I don't know what the difference between the codes is. :dunno

All right, I'll confess. I went ahead and cranked it over in :16 for about 10 seconds and it turned the motor over without firing. Then i hit the starter button again briefly and it fired.:banghead: ??

I usually just tilt the bike real low on the stand and alot of extra oil comes out..never tried cracking her up on diag mode.

On a Suzuki (sorry for swearing here) if you hold them full throttle the engine will crank but it will not start. I have a feeling the Yamaha is the same. If that's true it would be easier to just hold the throttle pinned and crank :thumbup There will always be those who say "What if it starts ? " "You'll blow your engine" etc ...... so flame away :2bitchsla I actually tried this and my bike did start, with no oil... at full throttle.:banghead: I was freaking out, but I finished my oil change and took it out for a ride. I haven't noticed any issues or new noises so I hope I'm good.

I actually tried this and my bike did start, with no oil... at full throttle.:banghead: I was freaking out, but I finished my oil change and took it out for a ride. I haven't noticed any issues or new noises so I hope I'm good. Seriously, what were you thinking? :dundun: The diag mode method works fine on your bike.

Yeah I know, I f'd up. I did try the diag mode but I forgot one of the steps and instead of going back and checking the forum, I remembered the other way (THE WRONG WAY) so I gave it a try. At least I can serve as an example to other owners, not to try this.

I'm sure it will be fine, just be careful next time!

Well I got curious, so I went into diagnostic mode on my 04 R6 and tried to start it. Seems to work the same way as described with an R1. Guess I'll try this next time I do an oil change. If it works good I'll post a thread with a link to this one in the r6 forum. Thanks.

bump

n/m, figured it out.

I just wanted to let you guys know that when I changed my oil few days something weird happened. I drained the oil then I put the bike in diagnostic mode. I did like Wheatman said about 7-8 seconds cranking 2 times so the starter does not create too much heat. That was fine filled my filter up with oil then filled the bike up. I then put the bike back in diagnostic mode and started to crank the bike. I don't know what caused this, but I guess my finger slipped and the starter shut off for a split second then I pushed my thumb back against the starter button. Then bam the bike cranked up luckily there was oil in the bike. Does anybody have any idea why this would have happened? The bike was in the diagnostic mode and it had been cranking for about five seconds. Could my thumb slipping off the button caused it to jump out of diagnostic mode. It kind of makes me nervous the next time I change the oil. Anybody ever encountered this before?If anybody has any info it would be greatly appreciated.

The only thing I could see causing that is if your battery was low enough that the ECU lost voltage then reset when you let off. Try to reproduce it again and let us know.

has anybody tried the seafoam along with the oil yet?

In any case, if the bike has no oil and it does fire up, there will still be a slimy coat of residual oil over everything, so as long as you're quick with the kill switch you don't run much risk of damage if it does start. Just be mindful when you're cranking your bike over and if it starts you want to kill it quick as possible. Don't sweat about it. As for the cause, no I don't know. Like anything electronic I guess, sometimes things just happen.

has anybody tried the seafoam along with the oil yet? Yup, I've run it a few times now. Seems to help keep everything clean and running quietly.

I have an 04 r1, and after it says diag;... I then hold down both buttons again but I cant find the xx code. I tried a couple of the ones that I do see...diag;18..diag;20.. ect...ect...But it still starts!! How do I get it into the right mode??

In any case, if the bike has no oil and it does fire up, there will still be a slimy coat of residual oil over everything, so as long as you're quick with the kill switch you don't run much risk of damage if it does start. Just be mindful when you're cranking your bike over and if it starts you want to kill it quick as possible. Don't sweat about it. As for the cause, no I don't know. Like anything electronic I guess, sometimes things just happen.Appreciate it :thumbup

Yup, I've run it a few times now. Seems to help keep everything clean and running quietly. Same here :thumbup I even use it in my KX450F:rock

I have an 04 r1, and after it says diag;... I then hold down both buttons again but I cant find the xx code. I tried a couple of the ones that I do see...diag;18..diag;20.. ect...ect...But it still starts!! How do I get it into the right mode?? Unless you have a one of a kind 04 R1, I'd say you are doing something wrong. "xx" signifies that it can say different things there. It should not fire when in that mode.

Dear fiveoh, I tried this method last night on my 05. I went to diagnostic mode, and then pressed the buttons once more to display "d01:13"... The bike immediately started. Tried it again. Same result. I went through the rest of the diagnostic modes but that was the only d01:xx. In any case, my bike still started. you see!..I am not the only one this happened to. Should I try the battery voltage code i read here somewhere here?

I had a thought; what about putting the bike back in diag. mode after you get it filled up with oil, crank it over a few times to build up oil pressure before you let it fire up.

I had a thought; what about putting the bike back in diag. mode after you get it filled up with oil, crank it over a few times to build up oil pressure before you let it fire up. ... Cap it and then do the diag trick again. Cranking once more for about 15 seconds. This assures the the filter and the rest of the oiling path is primed and ready to go. :sneaky

:sneaky thought I read every page. duh!!

:sneaky would you mind looking at this? http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3776378#post3776378

did this method on my 04 R1, diagnostic mode worked, only thing was nothing spat out hehe .. stupid me ended up pouring a bit too much oil ..

This is my first post so firstly I would like to say G'day to all. "G'day" I live in Australia {gold Coast} and my road ride is an 02 R1 {love it} Been lurking here for awhile... But after doing my FiveOh oil change,thought i'd register so i could say thanks It is the ONLY way to go. My oil changes have gone from 3.1 litres - 3.8 litres So THANKS FiveOh :):thumbup Now i'll get back to lurking :lol

Cheers Crowy, glad to help!

nah i will stick with mine. this sounds like a rockedscience project. Besides any liquid runs better hot...duh!

Uhh, your bike has a carb... duh And in case you didn't read it: Most people know this, but it's worth mentioning...

fiveoh, I used this method yesterday and it worked great. The diagnostic mode worked as advertised, and I watched a lot of oil pump out while doing it. I did the whole thing with the bike on the stands. Should I have drained it on the kickstand? Would that get even more of it out?

fiveoh, I used this method yesterday and it worked great. The diagnostic mode worked as advertised, and I watched a lot of oil pump out while doing it. I did the whole thing with the bike on the stands. Should I have drained it on the kickstand? Would that get even more of it out? I've always done it on a rear stand, I'm not really sure if you would get more on the kickstand.

I've always done it on a rear stand, I'm not really sure if you would get more on the kickstand. That's probably a good idea. I'll just use the rear stand next time. Thanks a lot for posting this thread.

AWESOME WRITE UP/HOW TO 5 O!! Gabeowen, I have the graves full system on my 06 and yeah I have gone through extensive money and parts to redirect the oil draining directly on the headers. So far I have used a drain system with check valve that connects a tube into the drain plug, have to look for the website I got it on, but that did nothing but lead me to have to take the headers off completely to use that. In process of taking the check valve drain plug back off, I damaged the "ti" pipe and just had it re-welded, PITA. END RESULT, I put the stock back in and just wipe off the excess oil that drips out!!! Either way, as soon as you start it and run it a few, it burns it off anyway. Point is I have tried to redirect the oil from draining on the pipe with NO AVAIL! Not sure if the "check valve, drain tube system," would work for others, but that thing was nothing but $$$$ down the $hiter!! I will be trying this method on my 06 this week, once my scotts filter comes in, thanks again all for your inputs on this!!! :thumbup

Just put a lil newspaper around the exhaust so the oil runs over it and make a lil twist in the bottom so the oil drips in the same spot

Yeah, I just use tin foil and shape it over the headers to keep em clean...

Damn great stiky........ I just got done doing this........awesome.....thanks for posting this now to find the how too on changing the air filter!!!!

I would have thought the issue of oil dripping on the headers during a change to be too trivial to waste good money on trying to fix? Even if you don't cover them at all, it's a simple matter to just grab a rag and wipe off whatever got spilled - any remaining residue will very quickly get burned off the next time you take it out for a ride. It may be a minor annoyance, but money spent on this is money you can't spend on things that will serve a far more useful and effective purpose, IMHO.

I would have thought the issue of oil dripping on the headers during a change to be too trivial to waste good money on trying to fix? Even if you don't cover them at all, it's a simple matter to just grab a rag and wipe off whatever got spilled - any remaining residue will very quickly get burned off the next time you take it out for a ride. It may be a minor annoyance, but money spent on this is money you can't spend on things that will serve a far more useful and effective purpose, IMHO. COULD NOT HAVE SAID IT BETTER!!! I was on a website for clean oil changes since I was thinking that the $10.00 spent on the check valve/clean tube method would be awesome!! Yeah, well with the Graves headers RIGHT in the way, it was not and became $$$$ not well spent in the long run, just wanted to put it out in case someone was looking into the method and had the graves full sys. "5 O" Everything as stated before about the posts is right on, this is really and truely a great way to change oil and will be the method I use from now on! The only thing worth saying on here was that I also did try to use the d01:xx to make sure that it would not start before dropping any oil. What I noticed was some intermittent things: First time: Started right up with an engine code "ER-1" and engine light. Reset it and tried again, same thing. Next session: Scrolled through the menu of Diag codes until I got to d20:xx or something in that figure, for me.... The fuel pump started pumping a bit and stopped for me, so I tried cranking here, it cranked and did not start. This is what I used! I was lucky enough to have a friend and he has a Canadian R1 06 sitting right next to mine here in housing and so I went to his, his was fine for not starting in d01:xx though, just as you stated. SO, I did check my battery, but I JUST changed my battery 2 weeks ago. Either way, there was one of the codes in the Diag settings that allowed me to complete this! IF YOU CHOOSE TO SCROLL THROUGH, both buttons used indivually increase and decrease respectively through the codes: (d01:xx, d02:xx, d03:xx, ect). Again, I did try on my 06 to just use d01:xx and it worked once out of the multiple times I tried. Just thought I would throw my experience in there in case others ran into this who have 06's. THANKS AGAIN 5 O!!!:thumbup

This is an excellent post. So...question. If you use a magnetic drain plug, will this still be worth messing with the diag codes on the 07 since the drain plug is supposed to (and I use supposed to lightly) pick up the shavings from the old oil?

When I did the diag. code mode, it worked great but I got d01: 17??? Whats this mean?

Quick question, I'm due for an oil change, and I don't wanna go to the dealership...again...went for 6 month check up, and I spent $118 for basically an oil change and a quick tighten up of the chain...pissed me off. I know that different temperatures dictate which type of oil to use, I'm in Yuma, AZ. and during the summer it regularly hits 120 degrees here, and my bike runs hot...obviously... Which oil should I chose, also I've heard good things about rotella (spelling?) Is that something worth looking into, and if I do go with rotella can I still use a standard filter?

Quick question, I'm due for an oil change, and I don't wanna go to the dealership...again...went for 6 month check up, and I spent $118 for basically an oil change and a quick tighten up of the chain...pissed me off. I know that different temperatures dictate which type of oil to use, I'm in Yuma, AZ. and during the summer it regularly hits 120 degrees here, and my bike runs hot...obviously... Which oil should I chose, also I've heard good things about rotella (spelling?) Is that something worth looking into, and if I do go with rotella can I still use a standard filter? I use Rotella with a K&N filter. I like it so far. You can read all about it on this thread, http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=253838&highlight=rotella. I wouldn't pay the dealership to change it. It's pretty easy to do. One thing I will do on my next oil change. Line the headers with aluminum foil to prevent oil getting on them. My bike was stinky and smoking for an hour or more after my last change.

I'm just wondering how the heat will screw with the oil breaking down faster and all that...in traffic I've seen my bike hit 246...scared the shit outta me...

I'm a big fan of Amsoil 10W-40 synthetic motorcycle oil. It gets pretty hot down here and we flog our bikes on the race track. Amsoil has great thermal protection.

I'm just wondering how the heat will screw with the oil breaking down faster and all that...in traffic I've seen my bike hit 246...scared the shit outta me... WOW! I have never seen mine hit that high. I have seen maybe 226, but the fan brings it down pretty quick. I live in Texas and it gets pretty hot down here and my 05 has never seen a problem. When I flushed my radiator I switched to Engine Ice it helped keep it a couple of degrees cooler.:fork

ya...thinking about an exhaust wrap...and trying engine ice...may even swap out my exhaust... http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=261701 We'll see

ya...thinking about an exhaust wrap...and trying engine ice...may even swap out my exhaust... http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=261701 We'll see I have full Akrapovic race on my R1.

ok, all sounds good, do you think you could cheat a bit? drain the oil, then put some good oil in,(small amount) then crank it to exspell the old oil like discribed here, only stopping once good oil comes thru. then wouldnt it be kinda pre-primed? what ya think?

Doing a flush like that is good, but the whole idea of priming is to pump oil back into the new filter and beyond.

yer, that makes sence. you would still have to prime the filter.

Thanks for the writeup Five-Oh!!! To everyone else, the diag mode works on the 07 model.

Thanks Five-Oh....really appreciate it!

so i tryed diag mode start up on my 07 and it did start, so my question is once in the mode how do you flick thru the different ones, iv herd others tryed different ones and it finally worked. i pressed both buttons again and it did change tryed it and it started, i dont like playing with pc things i know nothing about. just in case it changes some thing and i get lost. so simplyfied, you get to "d01:xx" (this is wear it started) from there to get to the next in the list do you push both buttons again? because i dont want to select anything or reset anything. as above i did push both once more and tried but it started and didnt know what i was doing so, im asking the pros? anybody got a mode that work as in the xx being a number that worked on there 07, rather than trying them all?

I have the 07 too. When I put my bike in DIAG mode,then pushed the buttons again to select a mode it flashed between d01:15, d01:16, d01:15, d01:16. I released the buttons and tried to start, it turned over, but did not fire up.

after pushing the two buttons for the 3rd time, mine was something like 01,02,01,02. but did start. i just dont like messing with it when i dont know what im doing in case i change the fuel mixture or something silly like that, without knowing.

after pushing the two buttons for the 3rd time, mine was something like 01,02,01,02. but did start. i just dont like messing with it when i dont know what im doing in case i change the fuel mixture or something silly like that, without knowing. Wierd man. I did exactly what Fiveoh said to do on the first page of the thread and I got the same results he mentioned. I think I remember others having trouble with thier 07 too, but I didn't. Sorry that I cannot offer any more advice. I am still learning! :thumbup

I think it has something to do with the position of the ignition switch - whether it be the switch position before you enter diag or after. I've done fiveoh's change a couple of times, and the first time I tried it the bike fired. The second time it didn't. The main point of interest is that the bike "fell" out of diag mode and fired as it would normally whilst I had the starter depressed, rather than firing IN diag mode which is impossible. I've tried it a couple of different ways and I haven't been able to figure out the pattern.

i know what you mean, it seems as soon as you touch the starter it returns back to normal mode, it doesnt stay in diag, i spose its ment to. its a pitty it doesnt run without firing just by using the kill switch.

Maybe your battery is too low if it's dropping out of diag.

That's quite possible. Starter does labour a little when attempting to start it after the oil change. It doesn't take much to drain the battery on the 07-08's I hear.

it shouldnt be, it starts fine every time, it was a trial run before droping the oil. so after pushing/holding both buttons and getting into diag mode, how do you scroll thru the different items?

Thanks for the tips.