How To: Install Clutch 02-03

I just replaced my clutch a few weeks ago. I brielfly searched the forums and got a few tips and followed a 2004 removal. I figured i'd take a few pics and post up some info more help and tips never hurts. Anyways i have like 5-10 pics and i will explain as i go. Hope this helps anyone doing this! First get what you need together -Clutch Fibers -Oil Filter -Motorcycle Oil(you choice) -1 small Fiber Yamaha part #4XV-16331-00-00 -Crankcase Gasket(5PW-15461-00-00) & Gasket Sealer -Clutch Metals(i recommend getting new metals mine where heat scored bad) Tools -5mm Hex -2 small pen magnets or 2 coat hangers with small bends -small flathead screw driver -12 & 13 open hand wrench -10mm socket -Ok first i removed the lower and mid fairing just for room and easy access -Drain all the oil out of the motor and change filter(18mm i think)

-Next remove the clutch cable i used the hand wrenchs to break the nut loose and counted turns then just unhooked from the arm. Move the arm toward the front of the bike for easier removeal and more slack

-Now untighten the 8 Crankcase bolts

-Now wiggle the case lightly left to right gentle pull off the case. With the case off this is what you'll see

-Use a 10mm socket and turn off the bolts. Remove all bolts, the washer and the spring. Then grab the push rod and pull out gently.

A pic of me gently pulling the push rod after removing the washer,bolts and spring.

In the meantime soak your fiber!

-Now remove all the fibers and metals After all are removed you get down to a small thin clutch ring with a clutch metal.

-Remove the Clutch Rind using a small flathead screwdriver by pusing down on the tabs.After removing the ring remove the last metal and last fiber. (note there wil also be 2 washer rings remember how the came out and reinstall the same way).

Here's a pic of all the clutch fibers and metals removed ready for new stuff!!:jump :jump

Now begin to install new Clutch Fibers. First is the Small Fiber Then Metal Then the Clutch ring (Note: dont forget to reinstall 2 metal rings as marked) (note: Align Clutch ring along groove along clutch pack teeth) Heres a pic of the new cluch fibers and metals installed. Make sure u do fiber,metal,fiber,metal. if you mistake and place 2 fiber together they WILL burn instantly. Take your time be pacient. Take pictures if your not sure for reassembly

Place Push rod after the last fiber is on. Place Washer over the spring. There should be a wear mark on the spring from the washer. Take the 10mm bolts and START to thread the bolts(Don't Tighten). Align the washer centered over spring then tighten 10mm bolts in a star pattern. I snugged the bolts, i don't know the torque spec but be careful cuz these bolts will break.

Don't forget the new Gasket:jump

Now install the push rod to the arm hole on the crankcase. Take your time.PATIENCE. The way i did this was i removed the oil plug on the case, used a flashlight, aligned the arm and hole and lightly jiggled the case with light pressure pushing in. Don't force it on. I have heard others using a magnet to straighten the push rod. When the rod is in, tighten up the case (i used the star pattern again for evenness).(Note:align the dot on the bottom of the arm a little bit further toward the front of the bike so when u install the cable it aligns the dot with the arrow). Just remeber how u took it apart

Attach the Cluch cable back to the arm. Pull in the clutch lever to feel and adjust to you likings. DON'T FORGET TO FILL UP WITH OIL!!!!!Clean up and start the bike. I let the bike run for 10 minutes and place in gear. Bike clunked few times but went away.Check crankcase for fluid leaks. If all is well and you feel comfortable with the job u did take it for a spin.Go easy on the new clutch for some miles. If all is well :D :jump :rock :jump and enjoy!! If you have any questions or problems i'd love to help. I wnet with the grave clutch fibers heres a pic. Anyway im done HAVE FUN AND RIDE SAFE!!!

Ohhhh here's a finished product of my bike!!

Great post and pictures... I was feeling a little bit uneasy of doing this by myself but, now I will take on this project... I'll be buying new plates this week :jump :jump

Nice how-to! Good job dude! You have a hcance to test out that clutch? How is it?

Good post Thanks, got to do my 02r1 soon graves plates

Originally posted by Corny Nice how-to! Good job dude! You have a hcance to test out that clutch? How is it? yeah i was riding my burnt clutch for about a month before the new one. Huge difference, Clutch feels Awsome and haven't had a problem sence

Great how-to, man. But I didn't have to drain my oil when I did mine.

Great How To Mike!!! Thanks bro

Fabulous how-to. I appreciate the time you took to document it all out. Helps a lot! Going out to do mine tomorrow after work. I am also doing the SR-3 Barnett spring conversion but it doesn't look like it will be a negative to the install process. Thanks, Shawn

any problems pm me

Ok, did mine. Also did the SR-3 spring conversion from Barnett. No real problems. Only 'pain' was getting the post into the hole on the casing but we got pretty good at it because we had to keep taking it off when we would realize that the clutch arm that the cable connects to was too loose. Went out for a ride on it last night and would say it is quite solid. What would be considered a reasonable breakin period for these clutches? Thanks Shawn :thumbup

Great How-to!

Okkkkk... I just replaced my clutch today, except when trying to get cover on and the push rod into the middle where the cable attatches to the lever I ran into a problem. I was able to get the cover on, except when I pull the lever it is to hard and stiff to pull. I have messed with this for almost an hour. I took the push rod off and was able to get it into the cover and understand that the teeth are able to move in and out and this is what dis and engages the clutch. Does anyone know what i am talking about as I dont know what to do right now. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ahead of time. I took pics but they arnt necessary as they are already in thread. IMMMMMM SOOOOOOO PISSED OFF.

Does anyone know what i am talking about as I dont know what to do right now. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ahead of time. I took pics but they arnt necessary as they are already in thread. IMMMMMM SOOOOOOO PISSED OFF. I know exactly what you are talking about... had the same issue on the first go around of putting the cover on. Ok, so... what we ended up doing is as follows.... for the shaft that is used to disengage the clutch... make sure the teeth are pointing to the back of the bike. We pushed it in and found that the oil that was on all the parts helped it stay put for th most part. If you do the opposite and have the shaft pulled all the way out, it will wiggle and drop easily so that the insertion will be a major pain. After you push it in, have it centered as good as you can, have the teeth pointing the back, have the clutch arm on the cover pointed to the back of the bike as well... we then watched through the oil filler hole (using a flashlight) and gently moved the cover closer until we were over the post. From there it's straight on and relax. Test cable tightness and decide if you need to do it again but with the cable arm on the clutch cover adjusted to a different starting spot. Hope that helps. Shawn

can a moderator please STICKY this?? its great info!

:thumbup great how to!

How long did it take to do this, from start to finish? How much should an entire clutch kit cost?

Thanks for the details, I really want to get into doing this stuff myself instead of taking it to a shop. I'm not a mechanic, but I love working on my bike and cars. This is awesome.

no thumbnails or pics???? whats up with that??

Great write up! I just did it and it took about 2-3 hours. First I opened up the wrong side (i wasnt thinking) and then to get the pull rod in was hard. I got it in but it never really bit down hard. Eventually from just palying around I got it and I just went for a lil ride and all is good. Thanks for this write up. IT HELPED ALOT!

How long did it take to do this, from start to finish? How much should an entire clutch kit cost? cost: fibers and plates and gasket kit - ~$130 (I think) cost: Barnett spring conversion kit SR-3 - ~$180 (I think) On mine, with the barnett spring conversion as part of it I would guesstimate it went something like this.... Get fairings off: 10 minutes (I hate taking them off... one of my screws is almost striped) Take cover off clutch: 5 minutes Clean gasket junk off two surfaces: 20 minutes (mine was nasty) Take clutch bolts and diaphram type spring off: 3 minutes (not long thats for sure) Take main plates and fibers out: 1 minute Take out boss ring clip (the crazy wire that holds the last two in): 5 minutes (I had to dick around with it to get the ends out of the hole they start in) Last plate and fiber: 1 minute First plate and fiber install: 1 minute Install new boss ring clip (wire thing): 5 minutes (I was affraid to break it) Install remaining plates and fibers (alternating): 3 minutes (they are dripping with oil at this point) Install Barnett clutch SR-3 converter: 5 minutes (mostly trying to decide on which spring strengths to use) Install gasket helper goop: 5 minutes (no rush and ended cleaner that way) Install gasket on goop: 1 minute Line up release shaft as close to centered as possible and put case on, with shaft going cleanly into opening on cover: 30-40 minutes (seemed like 5 hours) remove and reinstall cover to get clutch arm in correct position: 15 minutes (if you do it right the first time, this step wont have to happen) Adjust clutch cable: 5 minutes Reinstall fairings: 10 minutes I think that is about it... I have some pictures of mine but they are already covered on the original post so I don' t think they will help much but here is a couple that are different from what is already posted.... Removing the pressure plate: http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x101/R1Reaper/Barnett%20clutch/IMG_0934.jpg The basket with all the plates still in: http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x101/R1Reaper/Barnett%20clutch/IMG_0932.jpg The Boss wire clip: http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x101/R1Reaper/Barnett%20clutch/IMG_0935-1.jpg The Barnett SR-3 Conversion spring kit installed with 3 black and 3 Gold springs (medium load): http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x101/R1Reaper/Barnett%20clutch/IMG_0937.jpg Hope they help. Shawn

fusioncruiser: i have the 6 barnett springs ,where can i get this red plate and the bolts for the springs? what other parts do i need for this conversion? also , how does it compares to the stock clutch? i have 6 gold springs , so it will be too stiff isnt it? thanx :)

fusioncruiser: i have the 6 barnett springs ,where can i get this red plate and the bolts for the springs? what other parts do i need for this conversion? also , how does it compares to the stock clutch? i have 6 gold springs , so it will be too stiff isnt it? thanx :) I bought my stuff from aperaceparts.com... The should be able to help with the parts you would need. Here is the page that has the SR-3 clutch kit... http://www.yamahazone.biz/clutches.html As for the springs... The gold ones are the shorts and the blacks are the longs. Shorts/gold are the lower strength ones while the long/blacks are the stronger ones. Therefor, if you use 6 golds you will be getting the softest that the Barnett system allows. I can't tell you how the 6 golds would work but 3 gold and 3 black is pretty nice for sure. Not too hard to pull but definately locks in nicely. Hope that helps. Shawn

I bought my stuff from aperaceparts.com... The should be able to help with the parts you would need. Here is the page that has the SR-3 clutch kit... http://www.yamahazone.biz/clutches.html As for the springs... The gold ones are the shorts and the blacks are the longs. Shorts/gold are the lower strength ones while the long/blacks are the stronger ones. Therefor, if you use 6 golds you will be getting the softest that the Barnett system allows. I can't tell you how the 6 golds would work but 3 gold and 3 black is pretty nice for sure. Not too hard to pull but definately locks in nicely. Hope that helps. Shawn thanx allot man!

I have a 2000 R1 and everything you explained was the same but know that I have the cover back on there is still no tension on the clutch lever do you have to fill it up with oil to get some lever or what?

I have a 2000 R1 and everything you explained was the same but know that I have the cover back on there is still no tension on the clutch lever do you have to fill it up with oil to get some lever or what? No, the tension doesn't come from the oil. You need to start the disengage lever further back so that when the cover is on it is tight. It took me a few tries to get it tight enough but you will know when you are moving it the right direction. I believe I had the shaft pointed to the back of the bike before putting the cover on, then when you hook it all up it takes the slack out. Been a while but thats what I remember. Good luck! Shawn

Hey thanks alot I'm going to go see what I can do for that now. And there is not trick on gettin that push pen lined up is there its just a pain in the ass?

Did you adjust the clutch cable? Your clutch is not hydrolic, so oil is irrelevant. Are the dots lined up? Is the pull rod splined to the pull rod shaft correctly?

Fack, fusioncruiser beat me to it. Another thing you can do is to remove the pull rod shaft lever after you have the cover on, then simply adjust the lever accordingly so you can line up the dots.

Yea thats the thing is my dots are a lined and when I playaround with the spring loaded rod on the bottom of the cover it does not seem right to began, Could i have done something wrong on the installation of the clutch?

Yea thats the thing is my dots are a lined and when I playaround with the spring loaded rod on the bottom of the cover it does not seem right to began, Could i have done something wrong on the installation of the clutch? The lever should be pointing toward the engine when the dots are lined up. If this is the case, you should have tension on the lever/clutch cable at this point. If there is no tension, that means that the pull rod, and the pull rod shaft are not splined correctly, meaning they are one or more teeth off. I think an easy way to rectify this, instead of pulling the bloody cover back off, is to simply remove the pull shaft lever, and then line everything up. If done correctly, when the two dots are lined up, there should be tension. You will need snap ring pliers to remove the pull shaft lever. I recommend wearing safety glasses when messing around with snap rings, cause they can go flying :dundun: Good luck boss.

How many miles were ya'll at when you changed the clutch? Did you NEED to change it, or just felt like it?

it has 14 thousand on it dont know if it was ever changed before. bought it that way

Hey thanks a lot Racer Dude I got it to work. When i would put the case on and it felt like it would not move with pullin on it with my hand I thought that hookin up the cable would not do it to and I was wrong and thinkin about it now "Im a dumb ass" thanks fore your help. Tim

this s*** is pissing me off. i got the barnett kevlar clutch disc and plate kit, with the new stock replacement diaphram. well i get everything properly torqued and do everything the way the manual and this how to say to do it. well i had an issue with the retarded pull rod thing. but i took off the lever and got the housing on, attached the cable, and adjusted per the service manual. well i pull the cluch lever in, looking through the oil fill hole i see that the pressure plate is dissengaged the clutch. after doing so i figured ok, that wasn't bad, well i started the bike and hear this awful grind,its not a constant grind, in that its not like a clutch plate, or anything, i figured that it might have been so i pulled off the cover and removed the pressure plate and so forth, i then inspected all the components, found nothing wrong, until i go to re-install the pressure plate, well i looked at the bolts, all six bolts look like they were grinding against something, the little lip on the bolt that is normally painted was shiney. i looked at the clutch cover and did not see any signs of grinding, but the pull shaft, had some slight rub marks. now back to the noise, it got louder as i pulled the clutch lever in. so can anyone help, is there a certain depth that the pull rod has to be in? or did i not do something? i have removed and re-installed this thing like 5-10 times now... please someone help. PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME!!!!! thanks chris

this s*** is pissing me off. i got the barnett kevlar clutch disc and plate kit, with the new stock replacement diaphram. well i get everything properly torqued and do everything the way the manual and this how to say to do it. well i had an issue with the retarded pull rod thing. but i took off the lever and got the housing on, attached the cable, and adjusted per the service manual. well i pull the cluch lever in, looking through the oil fill hole i see that the pressure plate is dissengaged the clutch. after doing so i figured ok, that wasn't bad, well i started the bike and hear this awful grind,its not a constant grind, in that its not like a clutch plate, or anything, i figured that it might have been so i pulled off the cover and removed the pressure plate and so forth, i then inspected all the components, found nothing wrong, until i go to re-install the pressure plate, well i looked at the bolts, all six bolts look like they were grinding against something, the little lip on the bolt that is normally painted was shiney. i looked at the clutch cover and did not see any signs of grinding, but the pull shaft, had some slight rub marks. now back to the noise, it got louder as i pulled the clutch lever in. so can anyone help, is there a certain depth that the pull rod has to be in? or did i not do something? i have removed and re-installed this thing like 5-10 times now... please someone help. PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME!!!!! thanks chris Not sure man but uhhh this is for 02-03's Looks to me like you have an 01. Not sure of the difference though....

the 02-03 clutch is the same as the 00-01, the only difference between the powertrain is the carb changed to fuel injection.

Great Help to me

well i figured out the problem, the pull shaft that sits in the clutch housing, yea it was tweeked... don't ask me how... it just is... got a replacement on the way... it is a good how too... i appologize if i was rude sounding to anyone. this is just another of the ongoing issues with this bike...

hey whats up dude Just having a little problem putting the cover back on What exactly is the correct place of the dot on the shaft

Great thread! I think what is confusing a lot of people though is the dots have to line up with pressure on the arm from the rod inside. The disengagement point should be where the dots line up...not just spring pressure from the little spring outside.

does any know the part number for the clutch cover? for an 02

hey guys. ive been reading this thread with a lot of interest. I farked my clutch a couple of weeks back and ordered new oem clutch plates on ebay (paid $200, the shops, in australia, wanted $420, what a rip-off!!) Plates arrived this evening so im gonna attemped to put it all back together. One problem/question: how do I remove the old gasket??? it seems fairly attached to the clutch housing, the old gasket has been ripped and I have a new one so leaving it there is out of the question....... i think. I was going to take at it with a flat-head-screw driver but i do not want to scratch/gougue the metal and screw up the face that the gasket sits on. is there any solvents that can dissolve the gasket material or can i use gasket goo to apply over it and leave it in there??? forgive my lack of mechanical knowledge. any advice would be greatly appreciated.....

02 03 R1 Service and owners manuals. http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=e1aaf243515e6570e3a302d4c35173bfcb43d23145c05c7c

hey everyone, i replaced the plates and put the cover back on, It seemed to go on quite easily. How-ever, the problem is still there; I cant engage neutral and the bike pulls slightly when in 1st and with the clutch lever in. The dots dont quite line up on the shaft, they are about 1/12 inch apart. Does this mean that the actuatoris not spligned correcty?? does it need to "grab on to" one more tooth (if that makes sense??) is that possible?? when I put the cover back on it seemed to go on too easily, is this becasue I need to actually "turn" the actuator as I feed it onto the pull rod??? It feels like I need to pull the lever more, which would be the explanation..... that the pull rod has not been 'pulled' as far as it needs to. If it were to grab onto one more tooth of the pull rod, would this see the dots lining up?? is this my problem??? Any help would be greatky appreciated. My bike IS ridable, it's just starting to shit me that i cant get neutral either side of 10mph ie cant get it when stationary or can get it above 10 mph. and the gear shifting just feels too abrasive for my liking.

bump... any advice??

Very good info man. Thanks. Im also gonna be following this and doing mine myself. Rock On!

i haven't been on the site in a looong time.back looking for help with a new project. good to see my post helped alot of people. i recently did my clutch again.

Thanks alot!

Good write up. What are the differences between this and 04-06? I ordered a new clutch today. i have changed 2 others on different bikes and they are all simple but it seems getting the cover back on and aligned is a problem with all bikes. From reading I think I am going to leave the wire out.

thanks man!

here are a couple of hits I just did mine today. first, oil the gasket side that touches the engine when you remove the cover it won't stick to the engine and you can reuse it if nessary second the book says to have the teeth on post that connects to the clutch shaft need to be facing the back it took me 1 min to install the cover again