Odometer Reading

Hi guys, I am now the proud owner of a '98 R1. :rock I need to change the odometer reading from miles to kilometers. I have the manual for the bike, but it only tells me how to change the speed reading from Mph to Kph, not the odometer reading. Anybody know how I can do this?

Hi guys, I am now the proud owner of a '98 R1. :rock I need to change the odometer reading from miles to kilometers. I have the manual for the bike, but it only tells me how to change the speed reading from Mph to Kph, not the odometer reading. Anybody know how I can do this? As you know you can change the speedo from MPH to KPH and vice versa but the miles or kilometres already on the odometer are not converted. They are just stored as a number. If you had miles on the odometer and change to KPH then in future kilometres will be added to the odo.

I can understand that, but with the speedo set to Kph, the odemeter still clocks up in miles. Not sure why this would be, or how to change it.

I can understand that, but with the speedo set to Kph, the odemeter still clocks up in miles. Not sure why this would be, or how to change it. Have to admit I always believed that Km's would be clocked up on Odo when the speedo is set to KPH. If as you say they don't then I am sorry but I don't know what the solution is. EDIT Had this stored on my PC: On the circuit board inside the '98 -'99 cluster there are two jumpers/solder bridges labelled 12 &13. J12 open J13 close : UK spec MPH/KMH speedo, Miles ODO & trip, Deg C temp J12 close J13 open : USA Spec MPH/KMH speedo, Miles ODO & trip, Deg F temp J12 open J13 open: Europe spec KMH speedo, KM ODO & trip Deg C temp So seems like you need 12 & 13 open as long as Deg C is OK for temp. Never tried it but it seems feasible if you are good with a soldering iron/solder sucker.

OK, that sounds good. I've got no problems with a soldering iron, or Deg C. Where would I find this circuit board?

If you remove the instrument cluster, on the reverse side you will see a number of screws that hold the back and front of the casing together. Remove the screws and the back will come off exposing the circuit board. Seems well documented as a working solution. BTW I wouldn't use a soldering iron rated at higher than 40W to minimise the risk to any nearby components. Note to others, this mod is only applicable to the '98 -'99 models. The '00 onwards does not have the solder bridges. Here is a picture of the relevant area (Seems to be a USA spec speedo):

Thanks for the help. I'll have a look at it tonight. If I have any problems, I'll be back here tomorrow with more questions... :sing:

wow, so when i was running in kph i was turning up my odo even faster.. just wow..

Ok, stripped the instruments off, opened it up... Looks like a diode crossing over J13. Now, to get what i want, both J12 and J13 need to be cleared. Is it going to affect the bike if I take the diode out? If it was just a straight solder bridge I would just remove it, but a diode? I have attached a picture of my board.

Hmm, that does complicate things. If it were my speedo I would convince myself that the US spec cluster seems to work fine without that component but at the end of the day its not my speedo and I would hate it to all end in tears for you. I am guessing but I would think the majority of these conversions have been performed on UK or USA boards which don't seem to have this extra component. I have read thru all the info I can find and noone has mentioned this complication. Apologies if I have wasted your time. Perhaps Ebay can supply a reasonably priced Euro spec cluster.

I would assume that the bike would run fine without the diode, seeing that the other spec is running without it. But I don't want to damage anything, so I'm trying to get as much info as possible about this situation. Will be going to the place I bought it from today, and will try have a chat with their mechanics to find out more about this issue.

Hi guys, new to the forum. Got some good news for therat, my clocks are french, kmh reading only, speed and odometer and I needed UK spec clocks. I read the above, j12 and j13 have no bridge diode or otherwise so i see no problem with removing the diode on your clocks as this is how mine are from the factory. This afternoon I have solder bridged j13 and now have full uk spec clocks. Thanks for the above, saved me a few quid on second hand clocks.

Hi guys, new to the forum. Got some good news for therat, my clocks are french, kmh reading only, speed and odometer and I needed UK spec clocks. I read the above, j12 and j13 have no bridge diode or otherwise so i see no problem with removing the diode on your clocks as this is how mine are from the factory. This afternoon I have solder bridged j13 and now have full uk spec clocks. Thanks for the above, saved me a few quid on second hand clocks. Pleased it worked for you. :thumbup

Ta William, where did that info come frome? My only concern is the diagram shows a diode rather than a solder bridge, hopefully I won't fry my clocks. Cheers, Chris.

Ta William, where did that info come frome? My only concern is the diagram shows a diode rather than a solder bridge, hopefully I won't fry my clocks. Cheers, Chris. I agree I am getting a bit paranoid about it myself. Perhaps theRat could send you his if he removes it without frying it! I originally got the info from here (Service Section 1): http://borg20012.tripod.com/service_section_index.htm

Thanks for the link, the rat if it works, any chance of that diode

I posted a picture of the mystery J13 component and an explanation on another R1 website. The only reply so far is: I think you'll find thats a zero ohm resistor, in other words the same as a solder bridge. easier for the assembly robots to put on the circuit board.

I think you'll find thats a zero ohm resistor, in other words the same as a solder bridge. easier for the assembly robots to put on the circuit board. Yes, it seems that is, in fact, a zero ohm resistor. Apparently they use it in factories to bridge links because it is easier for the machines than trying to create a plain solder bridge. With this info in hand, I would say it is safe to remove. I haven't done it as yet, due to time constraints, but will post my results once done.

Thats put my mind to rest, had a word with a couple of the other engineers at work last night, I'm mechanical rather than a sparky and that's pretty much what they were saying, also if it was going to any damage it would have happened by now.http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbup.gif :thumbup

Yes, it seems that is, in fact, a zero ohm resistor. Apparently they use it in factories to bridge links because it is easier for the machines than trying to create a plain solder bridge. With this info in hand, I would say it is safe to remove. I haven't done it as yet, due to time constraints, but will post my results once done. Hope it works out for you, with the desired end result.:thumbup

Time for an update. Took the clocks off last night, and removed the resistor. Put it back on the bike, and no smoke, so a good sign, lol. Rode it to work this morning, and the clocks are reading in Km! What a relief! Thanks for all the help, and I hope this will help others with a similar problem. William, if we ever meet up, I owe you a beer! :drunk: