wanting to pick your brains people, over the last few weeks iv noticed that during the 1st mins of using my bike, when I accelerate hard in 3rd gear, and it hits peak revs that it feels like the clutch is slipping (revs rise quicker then bike accelerates) its really strange, after around 5 10 mins of riding it just stops doing it. it also only seems to effect 3 gear as well,

Anyone got any suggestions as to what it can be, if it was a problem with the clutch, would it not effect all gears?

My rear tyre is shot but im sure its not wheel spins, im running pilot powers and they grip great.

Just wondered if anyone had any ideas, I dropping the oil this weekend and I didnt want to put £40 of oil in if its all gonna get dumped if the clutch needs working on.


Thanks in advance :)

you shouldnt really be revving it that hard within the first few minutes of starting the bike....the oil has got to get around the engine first

wanting to pick your brains people, over the last few weeks iv noticed that during the 1st mins of using my bike, when I accelerate hard in 3rd gear, and it hits peak revs that it feels like the clutch is slipping (revs rise quicker then bike accelerates) its really strange, after around 5 10 mins of riding it just stops doing it. it also only seems to effect 3 gear as well,

Anyone got any suggestions as to what it can be, if it was a problem with the clutch, would it not effect all gears?

My rear tyre is shot but im sure its not wheel spins, im running pilot powers and they grip great.

Just wondered if anyone had any ideas, I dropping the oil this weekend and I didnt want to put £40 of oil in if its all gonna get dumped if the clutch needs working on.


Thanks in advance :)

When a clutch starts to go, 2nd and 3rd are affected the most. In 1st, the wheel will come up before there is enough pressure on the clutch to cause it to slip. How many miles/km's you got on the clutch? Also, you don't have to drain the oil to replace a clutch.

Mark
99 R1

its got 16k on it, been well looked after, not to mutch clutch abuse :)

I will try letting it warm up for a good while before I rev it to much next time, its off the road at the moment, im doing a little service at the moment

Oil, Sparks, K&N filter, coolant, Brake fluid, Pilot powers 2cts & a damn good clean all round

hoping its not the clutch

its the clutch, im guessing that once it warms up the clutch discs expand then you got just enough to hold the power, when they are cold they have shrunk some........clutch

is it a big job to fix, just wondering if I could do it myself and if so how much it would cost.

Also is there a way to defo say its the clutch before I buy the bits ?

is it a big job to fix, just wondering if I could do it myself and if so how much it would cost.

Also is there a way to defo say its the clutch before I buy the bits ?

If it's doing it in more than one gear, it's the clutch and it sounds like you're close to needing one anyway. You can find the parts online for less than $140 USD. It's a fairly simple job but some people make it harder than it really is. The only tricky part is getting the push rod gear back in when putting the cover back on. If you remove the oil filler plug and use a flashlight to see what's going on, it's much easier.

Mark
99 R1

cheers,

looking online I can find either pucka Yamaha clutch plates or EBC heavy duty ones, which ones should I get?

anything else I need other then the plates?

cheers,

looking online I can find either pucka Yamaha clutch plates or EBC heavy duty ones, which ones should I get?

anything else I need other then the plates?

I've always gone with Yamaha OEM plates but I'm sure there are others on the forum that can make better recommendations. I always replace the plates behind the piano wire but others say leave them alone cause if you do it wrong, it can get ugly. If you're careful and sure you have the wire seated correctly, it's really quite simple. Be sure to soak the fiber plates in oil before installing.

Mark
99 R1

Cheers mate, think ill give it a go, just priced up the parts, its £50 for the EBC plates and a new gasket, or £100 for the Yamaha plates and Gasket. Prob best to stick to the Yam im guessing, unless anyone has used the EBC and can reccomend them above OEM

well decided to get the pucka yamaha kit rather then the EBC, going to have a go at fitting it this weekend, found a rather handy step by step guide with pictures on this site and it doesnt look to troublesome.

Just debating wether to do the last smaller plate or not, seems a really easy job if you leave that bit as is.

well decided to get the pucka yamaha kit rather then the EBC, going to have a go at fitting it this weekend, found a rather handy step by step guide with pictures on this site and it doesnt look to troublesome.

Just debating wether to do the last smaller plate or not, seems a really easy job if you leave that bit as is.

Either way it's easy. The last plate is behind the piano wire and you just have to make sure the wire is fully seated after replacing the plate.

Mark
99 R1

ps I pull all the guts out, put them on the floor in order and then start replacing them one by one. That way, I don't get confused as to the order and end up with extra parts.

Looks like its another weekend with my bike in bits, still waiting for the parts to arrive. In the end I bought a set of genuine Yahama parts off ebay, new and unused. I only found out after id won the thing that it was all the steel plates as well as the friction plates. not bad for £50 I rekon.

Do the steel ones need replacing or should I just change the friction plates, also comes with a new spring?

Looks like its another weekend with my bike in bits, still waiting for the parts to arrive. In the end I bought a set of genuine Yahama parts off ebay, new and unused. I only found out after id won the thing that it was all the steel plates as well as the friction plates. not bad for £50 I rekon.

Do the steel ones need replacing or should I just change the friction plates, also comes with a new spring?

Don't know if you need to but since they are cheap, I always replace both friction and steel.

Mark
99 R1

Well the bits have arrived and shock horror not everthing seems to be there. There is no spring or more importantly no small friction plate.

Is this a issue not replacing these or is it worth holding off until i can order the parts new.

it will work fine without replacing them. You should thing about getting the coil spring conversion for your bike. It works allot better than stock and makes the plates last allot longer.

OEM plates work the best in my opinion.

I tried deleting the piano wire and last smaller clutch plate but all it did was make the full size plate I put in it's place break. I have the stock setup now with the piano wire and the Barnette coil spring conversion.

The R1 clutch basket is great, but the pressureplate/spring setup is crap.

sorry for sounding dense but whats the coil spring conversion?

So if im not going to replace the smaller plate I take it I dont need to even mess with the fiddly piano wire bit of the job?

if you are not going to replace it then no do not remove the wire. It would be better if you replaced both, but will work fine if you don't.

Most all clutch's have springs similar to valve springs that hold the clutch together when the cluth lever is out. The Yamaha R1 (and a few others) have a not quite flat metal spring. It's a neat idea, but it moves over a much more narrow range than coil springs, and in the rear world does not offer any advantages.

These clutch's commonly experiance slip when cold with the stock spring setup. The coil spring set up will eliminate that, but more importantly it will offer better feel and longer clutch life.

You can look on Barnett's web site for the part. Part number SR-3. Think it sells for about $130 bucks.

a good idea for any hard ridden R1, and a must for the wheelie guys.

sorry for sounding dense but whats the coil spring conversion?

So if im not going to replace the smaller plate I take it I dont need to even mess with the fiddly piano wire bit of the job?

I also have an SR-3 conversion and love it! I run 3 race and 3 street springs which gives it a bit more bite than the stock spring.

A lot of guys never replace the plates behind the piano wire and have no issues.

Mark
99 R1

thats the same spring setup I use Shark, works well. All race was just too heavy of a pull for me, but the three and three work quite well.

Well its all done :thumbup

Was so much easier then I thought, left the piano wire and plate behind it alone, the only tricky bit was relocating the lever, what a ball ache that was, the torch trick came in handy though.

I replaced the big round disc spring, couldnt afford the nice replacement part right now, the friction plates (old ones seemed OK) and the metal plates (Old ones looked pretty bad, heat scorched quite badly)

Havent given it a proper go yet, feels OK though, had a quick run up the road, will let it bed in gently and then test if it still slips.

A big thanks to all your hint, help and tips guys, couldnt of done it without ya, the Haynes manual made it sound like getting to the moon was an easier task.




Edit:

On a side note, where the heck is teh Idle knob, I thought it was near the gear shift connecting lever, in the recess, cant find it there though, just a bunch on wires there, anyway it could have moved out of place ?