I have a 2000 R1. Virtually stock. K&N, a D&D slip-on, with -1 front sprocket gearing is all that's been done to it. It's originally a California bike, now in Nebraska. I'm wondering if there's any sort of emissions "crap" that can be taken off to get just a little more. I'm also considering air box mods. this winter, velocity stacks, jet kit, and full exhaust. Any insight on any or all of the above would be greatly appreciated. Just trying to breathe some new life into an old bike.

factory pro velocity stack, bmc filter, ivans jet kit with ivans air box mod work great on the intake side and on the exhaust a port and polish and removal of the exup valve..... then we can go deeper with thinner head gasket, high flowing of inlet, ignition advancer... these are my current mods but yet to put the engine back together

I read on the Ivan's website that the ignition advancer should not be used unless the engine has been apart and the compression ratio raised. Am I missing something on that, or is it alright to use on a virtually stock engine. By the charts on there it looks as if it's fairly helpful from a performance standpoint.

you will get higher compression with a thinner gasket!!

theres also a mod you can do that involves spitting the stock head gasket taking out the middle section and replacing it back on. this will give you enough raised compression.... problem is you also have to mod the oil flow drain by placing a main jet from a carb into the oil drain hole, the reason you do this is because the middle leaf you remove has this little restrictor hole to restrict the oil drain back from the head into the engine so you dont starve the head of oil. Or just go buy a higher compression head gasket

So, I guess my question is, can you run a timing advance on the stock compression ratio (2000 R1), and if so, will it gain anything? I'm wanting to gain a little performance, but don't want to tear the engine apart and/or lose reliability. That and the fact that I don't want to have to run anything more than premium fuel because of the raised comp. ratio and advanced timing.

ummm from what i have gathered R1's come with massive timming advance on them already from factory.... mixed results i guess some say yes some say no!! to be honest spend the $$ on proven good mods like the ivans jet kit and just do his air box mod... also remove the exup on the y2k models they seem to LOVE it

thanks, that's kind of what I read and have been told as well. Was also considering Factory Pro velocity stacks. Any thoughts on that? Correct me if I'm wrong on the air box mod. It looks as if the kit just comes with some bolts and plugs, bot not the block-off plates. Also, it allows to completely get rid of the air pump, correct??

the ivans jet kit is a set of 4 well made needles, new main jets, and shims. it is designed to improve on what yamaha did pefect from factory. plugs and bolts.... dont know what your looking at im thinking it is the AIS system removal kit.... The factory pro velocity stacks are a work of art!!! i just wanted to leave them sitting on my shelve instead of haviing them hidden away in the airbox... they give u a nice oomph in mid range were you spend most of your time on public streets, try to aim for mods that will keep your power linear

yep, sorry, the ais removal kit is what I was talking about. $35.00 at the Ivan's website. Is that the air box mod you were previously referring to?

ummm from what i have gathered R1's come with massive timming advance on them already from factory.... mixed results i guess some say yes some say no!! to be honest spend the $$ on proven good mods like the ivans jet kit and just do his air box mod... also remove the exup on the y2k models they seem to LOVE it

Have you had any regrets removing the exup for a full system? I can't decide whether to put a full exhaust system on my 01R1. Did you lose any power in the mid range?

yep, sorry, the ais removal kit is what I was talking about. $35.00 at the Ivan's website. Is that the air box mod you were previously referring to?

Last time I checked, Ivan isn't even selling the AIS kit anymore. He just tells you to either tap the AIS spiggots in the head and stick a bolt in them or buy the graves block AIS off kit for $20. See link below...

http://www.gravesport.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=action&key=AB__007

I ended up buying the Graves kit. Its easy to install, removes weight from the bike, and greatly reduces the exhaust popping on deceleration. You can see one of my plugs (circled in red) in the pic below. Also the yellow circle shows where the AIS unit used to mount...

If it was originally a California bike, you probably can remove all of the charcoal canister emissions crap. It will shave off a little more weight & remove some complexity from the bike (see pic below). There's probably a thread on this site with some info on doing it. Do a search.

Unless your going to up the compression, you do not need the ignition advancer... You'll end up leaving it at 0 with stock compression engine.

Removing the exup in my opinion works great!! different people say different things... in the carb models its ment to work the best but i know have a akropovic 4 into 1 exhaust on its way instead...

the air box mod involves slightly increasing the internal diameter of the inlet snorkels on the airbox. theres a specific way of doing this though... type in ivans airbox mod in the search and it should help you out, theres also a thread going in here at the moment

If it was originally a California bike, you probably can remove all of the charcoal canister emissions crap. It will shave off a little more weight & remove some complexity from the bike (see pic below). There's probably a thread on this site with some info on doing it. Do a search.

Unless your going to up the compression, you do not need the ignition advancer... You'll end up leaving it at 0 with stock compression engine.


Yes, mine is a Cali model. Would all of the emissions controls choke it down enough to make it seem more "doggy" than a non-Cali model. Have ridden several others of the same that are non-Cali models, and they just seem to run a little stronger. Maybe it's just in my mind, but that is truly the way it seems.

If it was originally a California bike, you probably can remove all of the charcoal canister emissions crap. It will shave off a little more weight & remove some complexity from the bike (see pic below). There's probably a thread on this site with some info on doing it. Do a search.

Unless your going to up the compression, you do not need the ignition advancer... You'll end up leaving it at 0 with stock compression engine.

so, what goes and what stays in this picture?

i would say the box that says California model

Removing the exup in my opinion works great!! different people say different things... in the carb models its ment to work the best but i know have a akropovic 4 into 1 exhaust on its way instead...

Thanks

i would say the box that says California model

:stpd:

ok, I saw that, but didn't realize the entire thing needed to disappear. Will have to go take a look at the bike. Thanks for the input.

It really shouldn't be that big of a deal to remove. From the diagram that I posted, it doesn't look like there is that much to it. I did a quick search and found this thread that kangaroo posted:

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205715

It shows how to remove it on the 04 models. It looks like a different system than what is on the 2000 R1s, so maybe just use that thread for reference/knowledge.

If I were you... I would buy the Ivan's jet kit ($130), remove the Cali Emissions crap, remove the AIS system with the Graves block off kit ($20) and put a OEM air filter back in ($22). After installing the jet kit make sure to sync the carbs and check the EXUP adjustment. Take your time and do it right. These things alone will give the bike a strong, smooth/linear powerband, with great throttle response for less than $200!

BTW... I ran across this diagram too... more crap to remove! :thumbup

oh geez, does it ever stop. That'll teach me for buyin' a Cali model bike in Nebraska. Looks like a ton of crap to get rid of, but none looks to difficult. Was just out to the garage taking a look.

Yeah, I knew that the carbs would need to be checked when I'm done, but what about checking/adjusting the exup cables????? Never even looked at them before. One more thing, what do I do with the fuel line that comes out of the gas tank and eventually ties into the emissions canister? I believe that it's just some sort of vent. Can I just put a longer piece of hose in there and run it straight down?

Also, I was thinking of going with Factor Pro velocity stacks. Thoughts???? Ditch the K & N that was in the bike when I bought it, and put a factory back in, correct?

I don't have a cali bike, so I'm not 100% sure what it all looks like in person. On my bike there is a hose coming from the "petcock" on the fuel tank to filter, from the filter there is a hose that goes to the pump, from the pump there is a hose that goes to carbs (to a fitting between #1 & #2 carb). The pump and filter are tied together with a rubber mount which bolts to the frame.

The EXUP adjustment consists of adjusting the two cables that go from the EXUP servo motor to the EXUP valve itself in the exhaust. There are lots of threads on this. Do a search. If the valve is out of adjustment, it can serious bog the low end rpms.

Also, I was thinking of going with Factor Pro velocity stacks. Thoughts???? Ditch the K & N that was in the bike when I bought it, and put a factory back in, correct?

I don't personally have any experience with the Factory Pro stacks. I've been told that they really don't add any power... they just move the powerband to a more usable place for the street. This is just want I have been told... no personal experience.

Yes, pull the K&N out. Ivan's jet kit instructions will tell you the same. With his kit, the best results were achieved with the stock filter. This is based on bikes with 4 into 1 stock header and a slip on muffler.

cool, thanks! The fuel line I'm talking about is this one:

file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Owner/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.jpgIt's the hose with the two 90 degree bends.

The number in the diagram is 45.

I'm really not sure where that hose is connecting to.

On mine, There are three tubes/hoses connected to the tank. There is the fuel line from the "petcock" to the filter and there are two little tubes that come off of nipples from the bottom of the tank. One is a pressure/vent line for the tank, the other is a cap overfill drain. Both of these lines just run down to the side of the bike by the kick stand.

Your going to have to open the tank on your bike and take a look to see how yours is different. If you want to take some pics, I (and I'm sure other forum members) will be have to help point out what to remove.

will do. Won't be for a couple of weeks (drywalling basement right now), but will take you up on that if I get lost. I could swear that I read somewhere that I can just extend that hose because it's a vent.

I'm really going to look into the exup cables though. The bike is pretty much just a slug on the low and mid rpm's, compared to some of the other carbureted models that I've rode and been around.

I'm really going to look into the exup cables though. The bike is pretty much just a slug on the low and mid rpm's, compared to some of the other carbureted models that I've rode and been around.

Do a search on how to do this... theres a lot of threads out there on it... its pretty easy! This may not be your solution to your low end bog though... more than likely your carbs just need a little TLC... cleaning, adjustment, and syncing. Good Luck and let us know how it goes. :)

How difficult is it to sync. the carbs yourself. I've seen the gauges for sale and, do a little engine building for cars (working on my own '55 chevy right now), but I'm sure adjusting carbs from a small block chevy to a 1000cc yamaha is slightly different. Had the bike in last summer to have the valve clearance checked and adjusted, and they also put a "sniffer" in the exhaust and said that everything was good to go at that point in time as far as the carbs went.

Here's an excellent write up on adjusting the EXUP...

http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/exupmaintenance.html

Its for a FZ1, but our early year R1s have the identical system.

As far as syncing the carbs... thats easy too! Yes, you'll need a carb sync. Do a Google search for either Motion Pro or Carbtune. Those are the two most popular ones on the market. There about $100-150, but its worth it. You should check the sync on your carbs quite frequently (ie 2000-3000 miles), your bike will thank you. What your doing is adjusting and balancing the throttle plates across the four carbs. If you do a search on this site you'll find alot of info on doing it. Also, look around on that site that I posted above, Pat has got some great write-ups on maintenance. The adjustments are much easier to get to on the FZ1 as compared to the R1, but the operation is the same.

just checked the exup. don't know how bad is bad, but, top cable is loose and of the two tabs that are supposed to be one on each side of the "hole", one tabe is about 3/4's covering the "hole"

I believe that hole is supposed to be centered, correct?

Here's an excellent write up on adjusting the EXUP...

http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/exupmaintenance.html

Its for a FZ1, but our early year R1s have the identical system.

As far as syncing the carbs... thats easy too! Yes, you'll need a carb sync. Do a Google search for either Motion Pro or Carbtune. Those are the two most popular ones on the market. There about $100-150, but its worth it. You should check the sync on your carbs quite frequently (ie 2000-3000 miles), your bike will thank you. What your doing is adjusting and balancing the throttle plates across the four carbs. If you do a search on this site you'll find alot of info on doing it. Also, look around on that site that I posted above, Pat has got some great write-ups on maintenance. The adjustments are much easier to get to on the FZ1 as compared to the R1, but the operation is the same.


thanks!