What oil and filter do you use???

i'm breaking in my 2008 R1 the "mototune way" and curious as to what you all are running in your bikes? so: what brand/weight oil and which filter are you using?

Aimsoil racing (coincidently, a new Forum sponsor) And a Scotts stainless steel.

I run Amsoil oil exclusively. I have thought about a Scotts but I really like the Amsoil filters too. PS I don't advise breaking a motor in on any brand of synthetic.

Mobil 1 4T 10w-40 and PureOne PL14612 filter.

Mobil 1 4T 10w-40 and PureOne PL14612 filter. I am running the exact oil and filter combo. no complaint whatsoever.

Yamaha filter and 10-40 Yamalube..I dont recommend the MOTO TUNE way of breaking an engine in....

Yamaha filter and 10-40 Yamalube..I dont recommend the MOTO TUNE way of breaking an engine in.... how come wheat? your the first person I've heard not like it?

I run amsoil 10-40, and just regular Yamaha oilfilter for older R1s, the filter is a little bit shorter, so helps to give clearance from the pipes. Make sure to use just regular oil, no synthetic blends when breaking in. Curby

how come wheat? your the first person I've heard not like it?I dont believe in setting the rings by revving the piss out of it from the box.

I dont believe in setting the rings by revving the piss out of it from the box. i dont plan on revving the piss outta it. just going thru the gears, accelerating and engine braking from 3-7,000 rpms. nothing excessive. then changing to NON-synthetic oil after 50 or so miles. and again at 500 miles. and then synthetic somewhere around 1200 miles.

i dont plan on revving the piss outta it. just going thru the gears, accelerating and engine braking from 3-7,000 rpms. nothing excessive. then changing to NON-synthetic oil after 50 or so miles. and again at 500 miles. and then synthetic somewhere around 1200 miles. When I bought my new bike last year, they recommended not going over 50 MPH the first day, 55 the second... I pulled out of the dealership, it was 65 down the road, hit the highway and 75 to the house, G/F dropped off the truck and it was 85-90 down the expressway.... First night was 150 miles... Within reason, I believe in running the same way you are going to ride it for it's life. I've only used less than a half qt of oil in 8000 miles.. Over 8000 miles in 5 months... Changed oil and filter to AMSOIL at 660 miles, still on that 1st change.. about 2000 to go before next change. The principle behind the Scotts Filter is not unique, other companies have them as well. For strictly a race bike and someone that could care less about wear, go for it. The Scotts Filter is a 35 Micron Filter, roughly about the same as a Fram, which is not too good. The Pure1 is about 20 Micron in comparison.. WIX is about 15 Micron @ 84% efficiency, the AMSOIL is under rated at 15 Micron Absolute. ADG .

10-40w Golden Spectro & Yamaha filter.

Motul Oils n K&N FILTER

i dont plan on revving the piss outta it. Then youre not using the "MotoTune" method....

Does anyone know or have a link to the microns and % for K&N filters?

i dont plan on revving the piss outta it. just going thru the gears, accelerating and engine braking from 3-7,000 rpms. nothing excessive. then changing to NON-synthetic oil after 50 or so miles. and again at 500 miles. and then synthetic somewhere around 1200 miles. I'm waiting to break my bike in also. I picked up a couple k&n filters and went with Valvoline Motorcycle Oil 10w40. Is this oil ok during break-in? At about 1,500k i plan on switching to synthetic also, my last bike i ran Mobil-1 and went 25,000 strong before i sold it, but I'm going to run the Amsoil oil in the 08 with most likely a Pure-1 or Amsoil filter, if i don't like the data on the k&N's.... Thanks for the replies

Then youre not using the "MotoTune" method.... I agree. I simply varied the RPM's in bursts up to 9 or 10k and changed the oil at 100 miles.

Amsoil all the way. Take a look at A Study of Motorcycle Oils. (http://www.amsoil.com/products/streetbikes/WhitePaper.aspx)

Does anyone know or have a link to the microns and % for K&N filters? AMSOIL EA Series filter Under rated at 15 Micron Absolute WIX 51358 15 Micron 80-84% Efficient Mobil 1 17 Micron 74% K&N 17-19 Micron 73% Except for the AMSOIL, That was some Test Data provided to me by a customer that works for a testing company, The AMSOIL actually rated better but I will only post what AMSOIL puts in print. As you can see, the K&N does a pretty good job at particle size. But the data I had said that it did not hold the particulte very well. I have a couple of filter demonstrators, one with a Fram and the other with a WIX... I don't use the one with the WIX anymore as it does such a good job. I may have to get industrious, break it out of storage, and pop for a K&N to put on it some day. ADG

i'm breaking in my 2008 R1 the "mototune way" and curious as to what you all are running in your bikes? so: what brand/weight oil and which filter are you using? http://www.rpmoil.com/ :flex:

i dont know much bout the different kinds of oil but i went with what was already in the bike castrol r4 5w40 k&n filter

I just used the yamalube and yamaha filter and the bike feels good, but to each his own. I'd also like to add the it's a pain in the ass to change the oil with my graves full exhaust. I couldn't get the drain bolt off!!

yeah i have the full akro system and i didnt have that problem at all drain bolt super easy and the pilter just had to psition my hand a tad diff

I just used the yamalube and yamaha filter and the bike feels good, but to each his own. I'd also like to add the it's a pain in the ass to change the oil with my graves full exhaust. I couldn't get the drain bolt off!! Just think, if you used AMSOIL and the EA Filter, you could double your drain interval and have only half the pain in the A** LOL... ADG

[quote= Over 8000 miles in 5 months... Changed oil and filter to AMSOIL at 660 miles, still on that 1st change.. about 2000 to go before next change. .[/quote] How many miles do you go between oil changes?

2 times the OEM Recommended interval up to 1 year. I will be using oil analysis to verify change interval. Bob, ADG

I use Mobile 1 MX4T with the Yamaha filter, that way if my engine grenades Yamaha can't say I wasn't using thier filter for warranty.

Scotts Performance SS Micronic Filter with Motul 300 V Ester

I use Mobile 1 MX4T with the Yamaha filter, that way if my engine grenades Yamaha can't say I wasn't using thier filter for warranty. Yamaha, or any OEM for that matter, cannot deny a warranty on anything just because their product wasn't used. Yamaha doesn't make filters, they go out for low bid just like every other OEM. So now the question is, who makes their filter.... This Year... Scotts Performance SS Micronic Filter with Motul 300 V Ester Very good oil... The problems I see with the Scotts Filter: Expensive, Many Spin-on filters do a better job as the Scotts is only a 35 Micron, and, a Mess to clean up every time . I can buy a heck of a lot of Premium Filters for that money. Bob, ADG

Mobil1 M1-110 Filter, & Mobil 1 Synthetic 10w-40 for Motorcycles.

Thanks Bob- We have had a number of threads on this matter. Amsoil without a doubt is one of the best if not best product out there. However I prefer to do more oil maitanance then what oil can stand up to. Engine sharf, pollutants or fall out are issues that I like to stay away from. Honestly I havent price compared my Motul to the Amsoil offering but I remember there was a price difference that made sense. That being said Amsoil is top shelf without a question. :thumbup As for Micron ratings I recall reading somethng about 'avg' readings versus 'absolute' ratings. I feel confident in the 35 Micron rating. Sometime the most isnt applicable when an optimized range is. As well, I dont want a bypass valve in my filter. Also paper mediums can be corrupted by water, and water condensation in motors can happen from what I have read, swelling paper medium. I like my magnet in there. To see the shit that is not getting sucked around my motor is satisfying. I like the cooling form factor. I like it because its billet. Sorry Im that kind of moto guy :) :crash Lastly, throwing them out sucks and Im not even a track jockey or let alone a MX head. I can imagine how many they go through. I like my S1. No problem here...and I am not on the Kool aid either. People who know me here know I dont sugar coat. Then equate the cost relative to my bike. Its nothing. My BST wheels cost vs them made it an easy by, and I got it from a forum sponsor, discounted no less. I've actually am up on going equal on it, and soon will be saving the cost on not buying new filters Thanks for the info Bob and sponsoring the forum :thumbup :)

That is what makes the world go 'round... Different things for different people... It would be a boring life if everyone liked and used the same thing, rode the same M/C's, dressed the same Etc... As for the Motul.... Prices I am seeing on the 300V are around $14.95 so that is double of AMSOIL at Dealer/Preferred Customer Pricing... Safe Riding, ADG

Yamaha, or any OEM for that matter, cannot deny a warranty on anything just because their product wasn't used. Yamaha doesn't make filters, they go out for low bid just like every other OEM. So now the question is, who makes their filter.... This Year... Bob, ADG I realise they aren't suppose to deny a warranty if you've used a filter that meets their specs, but around here (Canada)they have. I really don't want to spend money in court or the stress of the situation over a simple filter, when warranty is off I'll buy a premium filter of my choice.

Totally true Bob... Never could find Amsoil retail, to price it. I do get my lubricants discounted but the Motul stuff is ridiculous. Hurts me paying that much... xddx

I realise they aren't suppose to deny a warranty if you've used a filter that meets their specs, but around here (Canada)they have. I really don't want to spend money in court or the stress of the situation over a simple filter, when warranty is off I'll buy a premium filter of my choice. I should have paid attention.. I didn't look to see Canada.... I don't know if they still can, but they use to be able to specify the type of oil you could use under warranty.. I was one of the people that just happened to make a phone call to Bombardier when they were shipping their PWC's to the US with a sticker on it that said someting to the effect of "Use of any other oil than Bombardier XYZ...... will void the Warranty" ... They were an unhappy bunch.. LOL ADG

Maxim4 ultra full synthetic with Yamaha filter (15W50). Tried amsoil (10W40) synthetic once, but would have difficulty shifting from first to second on the track under hard exceleration (clutchless upshifting). Went back to Maxim4, problem solved. Bikes a 04R1 and still runs strong. Probably better than new.

Maxim4 ultra full synthetic with Yamaha filter (15W50). Tried amsoil (10W40) synthetic once, but would have difficulty shifting from first to second on the track under hard exceleration (clutchless upshifting). Went back to Maxim4, problem solved. Bikes a 04R1 and still runs strong. Probably better than new. Need to compare Apples to Apples.... But as long as it worked for you, that is the main thing.. ADG

i'm breaking in my 2008 R1 the "mototune way" and curious as to what you all are running in your bikes? so: what brand/weight oil and which filter are you using? Partner I have a repair shop and every bike that i change oil and use Amsoil i notice than oil consumes , In the past i use AMSoil but my bikes starts to consumes Oil and i change again to MOTUL 7100 and 300 .... Here in PR some bike start to slipping clutches whit AMSOIL ,broken engines and i start to look another technicians whit this problems , another store here have a VALKIRIE and the same comsumption and to TEST the comsume we change to spectro and the problem was resolve and the owner store never sells amsoils again ...One of my personals YAMAHA whit less than 2,000 miles whit amsoil start to slipping clutches .... My Personal advice use Motul ,Spectro ,MOBIL ,etc but NO AMSOIL. HEre one of the represents of amsoil try to aid than i am a Liar and i challenge Him for a test and when the representative find Out who i am ,never comes to the challenge ..... My respects for the amsoil users .... this is a Technicioan opinion ... Santos Euro Racing

Santos.... Are they using MCF and MCV down there? I have had several people from PR contacting me over the years that say they cannot get those at the warehouse in PR. AMSOIL is the largest manufacturer of Synthetic MotorCycle oil. Personally, I have several thousand M/C Customers and have only heard such a "Story" from one person, and when he was called BS on, he disappeared. AMSOIL M/C oils carry a JASO MA 2 Rating which is the highest clutch performance rating available. Even Sport Rider did tests and came to the conclusion that if you are running the proper oil with the proper ratings, you will not experience any problems. The problem will be caused by weak springs, faulty discs and/or Operator error. Bob, ADG

Santos.... Are they using MCF and MCV down there? I have had several people from PR contacting me over the years that say they cannot get those at the warehouse in PR. AMSOIL is the largest manufacturer of Synthetic MotorCycle oil. Personally, I have several thousand M/C Customers and have only heard such a "Story" from one person, and when he was called BS on, he disappeared. AMSOIL M/C oils carry a JASO MA 2 Rating which is the highest clutch performance rating available. Even Sport Rider did tests and came to the conclusion that if you are running the proper oil with the proper ratings, you will not experience any problems. The problem will be caused by weak springs, faulty discs and/or Operator error. Bob, ADG Bob I undertand you point ,I buy those to my shop from another friend store that is a reseller ,and his OWN bike start to have problems whit amsoil ,My personal and Technical experience whit AMSOIL is the worst ... im not here to defame the product ... i have my reasons.....if some one ask me and i am a Automotive Technician here and build cars and Motorcyclers in my shop ,i not recommend that product ,In of the represents of you product come to my shop and i talk to the guy that the problems that i found in the bikes and he told me that im telling lies and i told him that i can prove that in a VALKIRIE whit you change to amsoil and the bike starts to consume the oil ,you change to other sinthec oil and the bikes works normal in consumption .,, I am The Owner Of Santos Euro Services & PErformance INC. in San Juan PR I write my business name that you now that i am not a ghost... I have all my license of the Goverment ready , and you can check to Sammy in PMS Racing in Caguas the same problems that he Found in Amsoil.......and a lot more... When i start my carrer i install the amsoil products in cars In Corozal in J. BURGOS Repair Shop ,that was a lot time ago ,at this moment i now that the product works in cars and works good ,But In Motorcycles not works the great that they mention in the news.... Just my Technicall opinion. Santos

Motul w/K&N

Motul W/K&N

Mobil 1. 15/50...the R1 uses the same filter as Toyota cars...i use Wal Mart #ST 6607.

Do the pureONE pl14610 & pl14612 work on the 07-08's also? And what are the differences between using the 2.5" and 3.5"? Thanks for the replies

Royal Purple Full Syn and K&N Filter :thumbup

3.5 has higher filtering ability

As stated by the mototune website, all you really want/need to 'set' your piston rings is cylinder pressure. I think the best way to do this is in a higher gear than normal at around 5000 RPM. You dont have to ga fast or rev the %#@* out of it. By being in a higher gear the throttle is opened more allowing more air to enter/intake event. This along with the slower RPM creates high cylinder pressures. Kind of like lugging an engine, but not to that level. The 5000ish rpm allows adequate oil flow. The idea is to load the rings (accelerate) then de-cel to allow cooling and oil flow for any particulates etc. These bikes have fairly aggressive cams as well, Though only 35# seat pressures. The aftermarket auto cams had/have big issues with wiping out cam lobes on break-in. Largely due to high spring loads but mostly due to the very poor oil now offered by the oil companies. They have to conform to the ever stiffening pollution standards. And God forbid the oil additives hurt the Catalytic converter. So oil type/brand on break-in is important. Tell me why synthetic oils are not good for break-in. if GM puts synthetic oil in the LS7 Corvette engine from the factory, it can't be that bad. I've heard that Mobil 1 gives GM the oil to put in the engines so they can put their logo on the filler cap.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with synthetic oils during or immediately after the so-called "break-in" period, except if you change your oil at the 500-600 mile as you are suppose to, you are wasting money. Usually, the problem is not the oil, but the person that installs improper oil. Oils have changed in the last 6 months much less the last 6 years. With that being said, you will always get the guy, even after reading that, will say "I've run XYZ oil for 35 years and never had a problem". MotorCycle....... Motorcycle Oil Car................. Automotive Oil Diesel.............. Diesel Oil And so on.... And then you must be sure it is the proper weight and grade of oil. Bob S. ADG

Repsol 10-40 semi synth

Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic / K&N oil filter

Good Oil... would reconsider the filter though.. Bob S. .

Good Oil... would reconsider the filter though... support it and I will...

Mobil 1 15W-50 Full Syn K&N Filter....easy to installation and removal are a bonus!

support it and I will... According to K&N and this is just 3 weeks ago, their filter is a 20 Micron Filter... That is straight from their Tech Dept... 20 Micron is a very good filter... There were a couple things that raised my curiosity about the K&N. I had found something online that had said the K&N had a good Micron Rating but did a poor job of retaining the particulate and releasing it back into the oil. Then, I have had several people cur apart their K&N Filters exclaiming how good of a job the filter must do because the media was so clean. Thought process.... filter should not be clean if it is doing it's job, which goes back to what I had read about it releasing particulate back into the oil. Unscientific ? Yes.... but enough to raise some doubt for me.. Filtering to a fine Micron Rating is great, but it has to retain what it takes out. Donaldson has tested the Media in the AMSOIL Filter, which is conservatively rated at 15 Micron Absolute. These tests have not only shown that the EA Filters have the best capture efficiency on the market, but also can help extend oil life. Bob S.

Yamalube 20w40 in both bikes and Yamaha oem filters. Amsoil in my Z06

According to K&N and this is just 3 weeks ago, their filter is a 20 Micron Filter... That is straight from their Tech Dept... 20 Micron is a very good filter... There were a couple things that raised my curiosity about the K&N. I had found something online that had said the K&N had a good Micron Rating but did a poor job of retaining the particulate and releasing it back into the oil. Then, I have had several people cur apart their K&N Filters exclaiming how good of a job the filter must do because the media was so clean. Thought process.... filter should not be clean if it is doing it's job, which goes back to what I had read about it releasing particulate back into the oil. Unscientific ? Yes.... but enough to raise some doubt for me.. Filtering to a fine Micron Rating is great, but it has to retain what it takes out. Donaldson has tested the Media in the AMSOIL Filter, which is conservatively rated at 15 Micron Absolute. These tests have not only shown that the EA Filters have the best capture efficiency on the market, but also can help extend oil life. Bob S. Well you proved your point fully and it is much appreciated. My next oil change is coming up so I will cut it apart and have a look. The main thing I like about the K&N is there is a nut on the end of it to put a socket on top so it can be torqued/installed easily and correctly. So more importantly: 2006 R1 Amsoil oil filter product number? Amsoil recommended oil? Where to buy? Anyone who can support their claim is worth trying in my opinion.

Thank you, AMSOIL EAOM-103 for the filter AMSOIL MCF 10W-40 MotorCycle Specific If you need a great chain lube, add a can of Heavy Duty MP.. Product Code AMH Where to buy: You can click right on our Banner Ads here. We have over 20 Dealers in rotation. All you have to do is click your Refresh button and a different Dealer will/should come up. Bob S. Well you proved your point fully and it is much appreciated. My next oil change is coming up so I will cut it apart and have a look. The main thing I like about the K&N is there is a nut on the end of it to put a socket on top so it can be torqued/installed easily and correctly. So more importantly: 2006 R1 Amsoil oil filter product number? Amsoil recommended oil? Where to buy? Anyone who can support their claim is worth trying in my opinion.

Thank you, AMSOIL EAOM-103 for the filter AMSOIL MCF 10W-40 MotorCycle Specific If you need a great chain lube, add a can of Heavy Duty MP.. Product Code AMH Where to buy: You can click right on our Banner Ads here. We have over 20 Dealers in rotation. All you have to do is click your Refresh button and a different Dealer will/should come up. Bob S. Sounds good to me, thanks again.

I use Yamaha filters and Repsol 10w 40 syn blend. I did not break-in my bike according to the book. I broke my bike in on the track. I have not developed any problems or issues with it.

Sometimes I wonder at how Old Antiquated ideas about break-in perpetuate... I suppose it is like the Old Antiquated ideas about how you can't use a Synthetic for breaking-in engines... Both are no longer in effect.. Bob S.

Motul 300V 10W-40 + Hiflo Filter

I just made the mistake of trying some oil a friend had. I've been using synthetics for a while now. And it was time for an oil change. I had been using Yamalube full synthetic 10w-40 and Yamaha filter. This time with a recommendation from my friend I used Agip 4T Racing full synthetic 20W-50. The bike runs like crap now! It's sluggish (I'm sure because of the weight of oil) and doesn't even start immediately. Usually when I change my oil it's "Awake!" Now it's as if he's a smoker running up a hill. Today was the worse. It was 93 degrees and no matter if I was in clean air or not the bike stayed in the low 200's. That's unusual because at least in clean air it'll drop to high 100's. Nope. It just stayed hot. Not normal. My friend usually gives pretty good sound advice. Guess no one is perfect. After about a week I plan on dumping this oil and trying something else. Hence I'm here researching. I'll try the Amsoil and filter. I do know though for a fact that my bike ran perfect on Yamaha products. So if Amsoil doesn't do it then back to Yamaha products I go.

You will build more heat with a 20W-50 as your bike is designed to run a 40 weight oil. You will also lose HP and Fuel Mileage due to the higher viscosity oil. Bob S. .

You will build more heat with a 20W-50 as your bike is designed to run a 40 weight oil. You will also lose HP and Fuel Mileage due to the higher viscosity oil. Bob S. . I was hoping you would respond. Ok, your recommendation then for a 2007 R1? Oh and I have no aftermarket products on it. It's still stock.

R1 -98 using Castrol 10w-50 fully synthetic