what weight oil should i use?

looking to get some full synthetic for my next oil change. just wondering which weight is best for warm weather climates(south florida). my choices are 10w40 or 5w40. i'm thinking 5w40 might be too light, but thought i'd ask the experts.

10w-40. You should have at least a couple of thousand miles on the engine before going to syn.

i have almost 1100 now, i was going to do it around 1500 or so. to early?

i have almost 1100 now, i was going to do it around 1500 or so. to early? Did my change to syn at 1,500 that should be fine...others might disagree...I use Mobil 1 15/50.. summer temps 80/90...winter 10/40 :)

i have almost 1100 now, i was going to do it around 1500 or so. to early? The engine will not be harmed even if you were to fill it with synthetic the first day you had the bike. It will simply take a little longer than normal to break it in.

does anyone use 20w50 oil? I ran it in one of my older bikes and seemed to shift smoother and run alittle better when it was hot as hell out side.

does anyone use 20w50 oil? I ran it in one of my older bikes and seemed to shift smoother and run alittle better when it was hot as hell out side. That is some pretty thick stuff. I personally would not use it unless racing in high temps. Older machines had bigger tolerances.

It about to start gettin hot and humid here in nc and when I get stuck in my back and forth to work triffic the bike stay above 200oF

It about to start gettin hot and humid here in nc and when I get stuck in my back and forth to work triffic the bike stay above 200oF Yes, it is. I do realize that :sing: I still would not go into the 20W-50 range. That's just me. And I do take the bike to the track.

sounds good. I didn't even realize you were in NC also.

sounds good. I didn't even realize you were in NC also. It's all good. :lol Should be fine with a quality 10W 40. Even 15W 40. But 20W 50 is thick stuff for a tight tolerance motor. More important is frequent changes.

I was thumbing through my owners manuel earlier for the heck of it and it said you can use 20w40. Ever tried it at all

The engine will not be harmed even if you were to fill it with synthetic the first day you had the bike. It will simply take a little longer than normal to break it in. The rings typically seat themselves within the first couple of hours of an engines life. The first handfull of miles can be a deciding factor in overall performance of an engine. If you don't get the rings to seat within this small window, you may not get a perfect seal resulting in slightly lower compression and power.

It's all good. :lol Should be fine with a quality 10W 40. Even 15W 40. But 20W 50 is thick stuff for a tight tolerance motor. More important is frequent changes. Do u mean high reving bike?

Do u mean high reving bike? Tolerences between the surfaces inside the motor. Motors are being built with much closer specifications than, say, ten years ago.

Ducati's, Ferrari's, MB's, BMW's are all delivered and spec'd with Syn of the factory, fwiw.

IF anyone has noticed, Yamalube has stopped offering 10w30 & 20w40. Now, they offer 10w40 & 20w50. I have a 2007 R1, purchased new in December 2006. It now has >18,000 miles. I've noticed that it has a smoother and more stable idle with 20w50, and shifts better. However, it seems to me that it revs a little quicker and is slightly more responsive with the 10w40. Nevertheless, it gets miserably hot here in Memphis in the summer, and, I confess, I ride the bike very hard. So, I use 20w50 starting around this time of year.

i have almost 1100 now, i was going to do it around 1500 or so. to early? I have nearly 7k track miles on my track r1 and it has had R4 superbike oil since about 1mile on the bike and it makes right at 185whp with no signs of giving up. Go synthetic now its good stuff, and the thinner R4 makes about 3 more whp.

It Was 104 Temp Yesterday Outside, Around Here If I Run The Thin Stuff The Top End And Clutch Make Alot Of Noise. So I Stick With 20 -50

10w-40 is fine.

AMS OIL Synthetic motorcycle oil for wet clutch bikes, 10W-40!

It really doesn't matter what brand or dino or synthetic based oil you use as long as it was designed for your application. The reason for the OEM's recommending different viscosities based on ambient temperatures is due to the desired viscosity band the engineers feel offers the most viscosity protection throughout the temperature range of the oil while it is warming up to it's normal operating temperature. Viscosity is one of the most important things an oil has to perform correctly. Synthetic oils versus most dino oils have quite a bit different thickness or viscosity starting out at ambient temperature on it's way to full operating temperature. Once there, both types of oil are real close in viscosity. As the oil temperature rises past 210 degrees the dino oil will fall out of it's proper viscosity band much faster than a good synthetic. The reverse is true when it is cold out the dino oil will be much thicker and harder to flow freely through the bearing cavities than the synthetic at cool start up temperatures and during the first few miles. So the moral of the story is if you are operating your bike at the temperature extremes you might want to use an oil that has a wider temperature range of protection. If you are operating in moderate temps then use the cheaper dino oil. george ADG

My first oil change around 400 miles i switched to 10w 50 semi syn yamalube, and it runs awesome, i'm around 900 now, thinking about changing it again with the same stuff. My dealer says that's what they recommend even though the manual says 10w 40 or 20w 40.

the 08 manual says 10w-30 wtf

Yeah, i typed that in wrong, the 08 manual does say 10w-30 or 20w-40

Yeah, i typed that in wrong, the 08 manual does say 10w-30 or 20w-40 Some MotorCycles are now calling for a 10W-30... In that case, AMSOIL Product code ASE 4-Stroke oil is the proper product and also carries a JASO MA 2 Rating. Bob S.

Some MotorCycles are now calling for a 10W-30... In that case, AMSOIL Product code ASE 4-Stroke oil is the proper product and also carries a JASO MA 2 Rating. Bob S. i already have a case of 10w40. ok to use on my 08? or should i get 10w30?

i already have a case of 10w40. ok to use on my 08? or should i get 10w30? Not a problem.... You will be fine using the 10W-40... It is a Great Oil.. Bob S. .

does anyone use 20w50 oil? I ran it in one of my older bikes (http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=231115#) and seemed to shift smoother and run alittle better when it was hot as hell out side. I run 20w50 on my 2004 R1. Mostly because I live in Houston where it's 90-100 degrees with 90-100% humidity most of the time and do alot of 6-8 hour rides. The bike responded VERY well to this change it feels like it runs stronger and smoother at the same time. I wouldn't recommed it to anyone living up north though in cooler climates.

I run 20w50 on my 2004 R1. Mostly because I live in Houston where it's 90-100 degrees with 90-100% humidity most of the time and do alot of 6-8 hour rides. The bike responded VERY well to this change it feels like it runs stronger and smoother at the same time. I wouldn't recommed it to anyone living up north though in cooler climates. When using a Petroleum oil, those are almost the exact times when a 20W-50 is recommended. High Ambient Temps and Sustained high speed driving. If using AMSOIL, stick with the AMSOIL MCF 10W-40 for all riding conditions. Bob Schultz

When using a Petroleum oil, those are almost the exact times when a 20W-50 is recommended. High Ambient Temps and Sustained high speed driving. If using AMSOIL, stick with the AMSOIL MCF 10W-40 for all riding conditions. Bob Schultz Thanks Bob :thumbup Most people think I'm crazy when I say that!

What about castrol r4.??? any good|?

When using a Petroleum oil, those are almost the exact times when a 20W-50 is recommended. High Ambient Temps and Sustained high speed driving. If using AMSOIL, stick with the AMSOIL MCF 10W-40 for all riding conditions. Bob Schultz I have been running 20w-40 in my 06. My operating temps are between 50-90 degrees. Think I might switch over after I am done with my case of motor oil.

What about castrol r4.??? any good|? Another one of those that are not popular enough to pay for testing. We use to use Castrol R years ago. Don't know for sure if it is now, but it was a Bean Oil at the time which is great for Alky and Nitro Engines due to it's compatability with the fuels. Bob Schultz

Thanks Bob :thumbup Most people think I'm crazy when I say that! That is because those people have no idea what they are talking about when it comes to lubricants.... They all think a Higher Visc oil provides better protection. Then, they will argue the point with you because they read some crap on the internet, and we all know, if you read it on the net, it must be true... Bob Schultz

I have been running 20w-40 in my 06. My operating temps are between 50-90 degrees. Think I might switch over after I am done with my case of motor oil. There are two reasons why OEM's Spec odd ball viscosities. In the case of 20W-40, the closer the spread between the numbers, the better the stability of the oil, therefore they can use less expensive base stocks and additives. Another reason is because if they Spec that oil, there are a certain amount of people that will run nothing but what is spec'd and the only place you will find it is at the Dealer.. Then some Dealers try to Buffalo the customer with "Warranty" crap that is actually illegal for them to spew it. Bob Schultz

Running 10w-40 and came from 20w-50. I like the way the 20w-50 felt in the bike, it felt smoother(engine and tranny).

Does Amsoil use Ester based Base stocks or Polyolefin based ? I've had better luck with high reving engines and built engines with Polyolefin based oils, they seem to deal with the acid build up better and don't leave as much of the black residue you see inside the engines when you break them apart. What do you think of Dumonde Tech products ?

Running 10w-40 and came from 20w-50. I like the way the 20w-50 felt in the bike, it felt smoother(engine and tranny). 10W40 What, compared to 20W-50 What ?? Bob Schultz

Does Amsoil use Ester based Base stocks or Polyolefin based ? I've had better luck with high reving engines and built engines with Polyolefin based oils, they seem to deal with the acid build up better and don't leave as much of the black residue you see inside the engines when you break them apart. What do you think of Dumonde Tech products ? Know them by name only... AMSOIL is a PAO Base with Esters. The Esters are great cleaning agents and also polarize the oil so it clings better to the metal products. Both oils have their place in the market but the Best Synthetics will be PAO w/Esters. Bob Schultz

question about 1st oil change; what oil would the amsoil group recommend for the 1st oil change; the regular ol yamalube or can i switch to amsoil right away like i did with my brand new raptor; thanks... DEREK

question about 1st oil change; what oil would the amsoil group recommend for the 1st oil change; the regular ol yamalube or can i switch to amsoil right away like i did with my brand new raptor; thanks... DEREK You are safe to switch at your first change interval. AMSOIL MCF 10W-40 and the AMSOIL EAOM Filter. Bob Schultz .

You are safe to switch at your first change interval. AMSOIL MCF 10W-40 and the AMSOIL EAOM Filter. Bob Schultz . thanxs guys:thumbup

thanxs guys:thumbup You are very welcome.. Bob Schultz .

Is it ok to mix weights? I have a qt of AMSOIL 10W-40 and looking to purchase a couple of qts of the AMSOIL 20W-50 for the summer only.

I actually had my questions answered..using the 20W-50 for the summer...the bike runs soooooo smooth. :rock

I actually had my questions answered..using the 20W-50 for the summer...the bike runs soooooo smooth. :rock I hope the answer was no, and there is no reason to run the 20W-50 in the R. 10W-40 is the recommended oil Winter, Spring, Summer and Fall. Use of a 20W-50 will not cause any damage, but it will cause a loss of HP and Fuel Mileage along with increased oil temps. Bob Schultz

This question is directed at anyone who has run AMSOIL synthetic in their R1: Has anyone had any problem with their clutch slipping after the switch from Yamalube to AMSOIL?

This question is directed at anyone who has run AMSOIL synthetic in their R1: Has anyone had any problem with their clutch slipping after the switch from Yamalube to AMSOIL? I have quite a few R-1 customers and no reports of any issues.. AMSOIL, as long as you are using MCF, MCV or MCT has a JASO Rating of MA 2 which is the highest clutch performance rating available. Bob Schultz

My 2007 R1 has got 4800km and soon i'm going to change the oil. Probably it's full syntetic now, but i'm wondering if i should go to half-syntetic or full syntetic? Do you guys have any recommendation what brand should i go with? Motul or Motorex or Castrol ?

My 2007 R1 has got 4800km and soon i'm going to change the oil. Probably it's full syntetic now, but i'm wondering if i should go to half-syntetic or full syntetic? Do you guys have any recommendation what brand should i go with? Motul or Motorex or Castrol ? AMSOIL.... MCT for 10W-30.... MCF for 10W-40.... AMSOIL EAOM-103 for the filter.. You bought a great bike, now run a Great Lubricant and Filter.. http://bestoil4you.com/files/g2156MCoilStudy.pdf Doc

I must admit that I got stuck on the Yamalube band wagon myself, I am not saying that it is a bad oil by any means, I used and loved it, my bike always responded well to it, but they got rid of the symi-syenthetic, and I switched to the fully synthetic, and it was the 15w-50. After reading this thread though I will be buying my first case of AMSOIL 10w-40! THanks for the info all

I actually had my questions answered..using the 20W-50 for the summer...the bike runs soooooo smooth. :rock I hope you didn't buy it...I did the same last year and what a mistake...I'm back to the Amsoil 10/40 year round and the bike is really soooo much smoother! :secret:

It's nice to see a sponsor's rep giving honest feedback on the products he sells as well as other products. Because of that, I'm returning the oil I purchsed today and picking up some Amsoil 10W-40.

I have used Amsoil for two summers now, and I had problems twice with slipping clutches with the amsoil. I am going to give it one more chance with this new clutch, but I have several friends that work at dealers, who say I am stupid for running full synthetic oil, and that I deserve the clutch problems because of running it. I will switch if this clutch does the same thing. I have a 2000 r1 with 01 engine. I really like amsoil, because it does help lower temps, and the bikes shifts oh so smooth with it. There is a lot less valve noise when running Amsoil 10w40. That is my experience. Hope I have helped.

I have used Amsoil for two summers now, and I had problems twice with slipping clutches with the amsoil. I am going to give it one more chance with this new clutch, but I have several friends that work at dealers, who say I am stupid for running full synthetic oil, and that I deserve the clutch problems because of running it. I will switch if this clutch does the same thing. I have a 2000 r1 with 01 engine. I really like amsoil, because it does help lower temps, and the bikes shifts oh so smooth with it. There is a lot less valve noise when running Amsoil 10w40. That is my experience. Hope I have helped. If you are using MCT, MCV or MCF, it is definitely a mechanical problem. Those 3 products carry a JASO MA 2 Rating which is the highest clutch performance rating today and few oils carry it. Any Dealer, mechanic (parts changer), service technician that says you are stupid, really are just showing their ignorance on the subject... The slippage will be mechanical or caused by the previous oil that was used not doing it's job properly, which will be mechanical now. Oil has 4 major functions and even more in a wet clutch application. Oils major functions are to cool, clean, lubricate and seal. It must have the ability to lubricate (slippery) and in a wet clutch application, it must be able to allow the clutch to operate without slipping. A quality MotorCycle oil will also have a high TBN, Anti-Rust and Corrosion Inhibitors and Anti-Wear additives for the transmission. The AMSOIL M/C Specific oils have all of these qualities and abilities. Bob Schultz

If you are using MCT, MCV or MCF, it is definitely a mechanical problem. Those 3 products carry a JASO MA 2 Rating which is the highest clutch performance rating today and few oils carry it. Any Dealer, mechanic (parts changer), service technician that says you are stupid, really are just showing their ignorance on the subject... The slippage will be mechanical or caused by the previous oil that was used not doing it's job properly, which will be mechanical now. Oil has 4 major functions and even more in a wet clutch application. Oils major functions are to cool, clean, lubricate and seal. It must have the ability to lubricate (slippery) and in a wet clutch application, it must be able to allow the clutch to operate without slipping. A quality MotorCycle oil will also have a high TBN, Anti-Rust and Corrosion Inhibitors and Anti-Wear additives for the transmission. The AMSOIL M/C Specific oils have all of these qualities and abilities. Bob Schultz Agreed^, how many cycles have you gone through with the Amsoil? two? When you replace the new clutch give it a thorough clean, I'd bet you won't see this problem come up again.

Agreed^, how many cycles have you gone through with the Amsoil? two? When you replace the new clutch give it a thorough clean, I'd bet you won't see this problem come up again. BACK FROM THE DEAD LOL

BACK FROM THE DEAD LOL I'm busy mang, lol, you got my cell.

looking to get some full synthetic for my next oil change. just wondering which weight is best for warm weather climates(south florida). my choices are 10w40 or 5w40. i'm thinking 5w40 might be too light, but thought i'd ask the experts. my experience is well first ,WHAT DO YOU RIDE, i have an r1 07 it came with castrol conventional ..at 600mi. ditto.. but then at 1800 motul 5100 syn blend seemed to be the shit ...i was so wrong at 4000 went to castrol full syn G4 there not kidding about extra horse power as if i needed any more anyways but all i can end this up with ..is much smother shifting and hang on !! LAYING LOW

I agree, you are probably right. I will make sure the Amsoil I have been paying out the *(^&* for is the right kind. My Yamaha dealership in my area doesnt know their ass from a hole in the ground. Clinton County Yamaha in Ohio. I asked them a clutch question once and they told me that they had never changed an R1 clutch. Hmmm interesting I thought. I will give it another chance you are correct as it was probably the previous oil that caused the problem, or maybe my rough riding. LOL