Car motor oil Mobil 1 super syn 0w-30 vs 5w-30

I was at peps and saw the mobil 1 the oil I use has come out with a 0w-30 super syn and it says it saves on gas mileage. I use the 5w-30 and want ot know if this is true. What is the advantage of the 0vs the 5 seeing the first weight is a winter rating. This is car motor oil. :secret:

The first number tells your cold viscosity. Once the oil is "at temp", the first number doesn't matter any more (be it winter or summer). If you do a lot of short trips, then you should use a synthetic oil with a low cold viscosity (0 or 5). Generally a thinner oil, ie an oil with small numbers, will net better gas mileage, but I don't know how substantial of an increase in mileage you'll really see.

I dont think it works but they say it does becuase it takes less work for your engine to roate with thinner oil in it. LEss effort to rotate the mass the better mileage you will get.

If that were true, wouldn't you want the oil to be 5w10 or 5w5?

don't use it i use mobil 1 15/50 or 20/50 in all the cars i own and all the bikes that thin oil is better for gas milage but at the expense of longevity do you want to change your motor more often? my little toyota car asks for 5w and i use the 15 as i was told by a oil barron not to use ANY oil with less than 15 weight unless i am changing it every 1000 miles

my little toyota car asks for 5w and i use the 15 as i was told by a oil barron not to use ANY oil with less than 15 weight unless i am changing it every 1000 miles Do you have an actual source for that? Because I cannot believe that is factual. If a car company determines a certain weight oil is appropriate for their vehicle, why not run it? Thin oil doesn't "wear out" faster. I think you have sorely misplaced your trust if you are really going on what your oil barron has told you. Small oil passages might actually require a thin weight oil to allow a sufficient volume to pas through, otherwise you might not get lubrication to the entire motor. Here's something for you to try. Run a 5w oil for one oil change, then send a sample of the oil to blackstones lab (I think that is the name of the place) for a complete oil analysis. They will be able to tell you how much longer you could use the oil (or how much shorter) based on it's retained velocity, particulate matter, and many other things.

one bad thing about using mobil 1 full syn is that if your motor has a leak this oil will find it! ive always switched my cars to mobil 1 with no leaks and then it has small leaks nothing major but thin oil will always find somewhere to leak from.

don't use it i use mobil 1 15/50 or 20/50 in all the cars i own and all the bikes that thin oil is better for gas milage but at the expense of longevity do you want to change your motor more often? my little toyota car asks for 5w and i use the 15 as i was told by a oil barron not to use ANY oil with less than 15 weight unless i am changing it every 1000 miles if your putting 20w50 into a newer car you can be doing more harm than good...some cars, that use a hydraulic bucket style lifters have such tight tolerances that 20w50 weight oil is know to cause the lifter to lock thus burning the valves, several manufactures put out TSB's on this issue. In my car, if I put anything more than 5w20, the check engine light will come on, and the MDS stops working.

The problem with going to thin on a motorcycle is your clutch. The clutch will tear through that oil leaving no protection. Personally I wouldn't go below 10 for that reason.

The problem with going to thin on a motorcycle is your clutch. The clutch will tear through that oil leaving no protection. Personally I wouldn't go below 10 for that reason. :secret:He's talking about car motor oil...

I use Mobil 1 0w-50 myself.

24hrs and 11 posts and no one has noticed the nipple

24hrs and 11 posts and no one has noticed the nipple Sorry the pic is :ugh

thinner oil has one purpose, to make better gas milage to sell cars no matter how soon the motor rings go use your 5w and change your oil every 1000 miles and i will still do 5000 per change for me the barron i am talking about runs the largest dyno and has done countless research on longevity of motors and the break down of oil and if he says ther is NO 10 weight or lessor that is worth a crap i belive him do what you will

thinner oil has one purpose, to make better gas milage to sell cars no matter how soon the motor rings go use your 5w and change your oil every 1000 miles and i will still do 5000 per change for me the barron i am talking about runs the largest dyno and has done countless research on longevity of motors and the break down of oil and if he says ther is NO 10 weight or lessor that is worth a crap i belive him do what you will Actually the 5 is winter rating not the weight. I use the 5w-30 in my car and it goes 6000 miles with no problems. The bike runs 5w-40 in my bike and it has no problems also. From what little i know the second number tells the weight once the oil is up to temp so whether 0w-30 or 5w-30 the second number is what is important and thus have come to the concclusion that the 0 is a marketing ploy.:secret:

Actually the 5 is winter rating not the weight. I use the 5w-30 in my car and it goes 6000 miles with no problems. The bike runs 5w-40 in my bike and it has no problems also. From what little i know the second number tells the weight once the oil is up to temp so whether 0w-30 or 5w-30 the second number is what is important and thus have come to the concclusion that the 0 is a marketing ploy.:secret: The 5 is indeed the weight. It's just the cold weight while the second is the hot weight. :dundun: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm I believe the cold weight is important myself. I seem to remember reading that most engine wear occurs at startup until the oil gets flowing and recoats everything. That would also be why some of the oil copanies advertise how their oil coats and stays longer. :dunno

The 5 is indeed the weight. It's just the cold weight while the second is the hot weight. :dundun: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm I believe the cold weight is important myself. I seem to remember reading that most engine wear occurs at startup until the oil gets flowing and recoats everything. That would also be why some of the oil copanies advertise how their oil coats and stays longer. :dunno That is what I meant to say but I have one question how long before the winter weight goes to the second number until the engine is up to operating temp.:secret:

24hrs and 11 posts and no one has noticed the nipple fyi: thats been there for months

Why did this get moved if it does not concern bikes?

I'd think the oil heats up as the engine does. So depending on how you drive 5-10 minutes. If the cold weight doesn't matter would more oils have just one weight?

the winter weight is good to be very low, 0 or 5, as it's only when the engine is cold and it flows better - better protection. the other weight is more interesting. you can say that a 10W-40 has 10 when it starts and when it's hot it drops anyways below 10 (which is normal, "unhot" viscosity) but no more than a 40 oil would. (a 40 cold one). so look for a fully synthetic with the winter viscosity as low as you can, especially if you ride when it's cold outside, and the other viscosity is up to you, if you want better protection but less faster revs, take it high, 50-60, if you want fast high revs take 30-40.

i was told the MINIAML possible wear od the heavier oil during start up in NOWHERE near the wear incurred using lighter oil all the time, think about it keep in the mind how fast a 5 or 10 30 loses its shear aas well as viscocity i use the 15 or 20 50 and will not even use a 40

The 5 is indeed the weight. It's just the cold weight while the second is the hot weight. :dundun: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm I believe the cold weight is important myself. I seem to remember reading that most engine wear occurs at startup until the oil gets flowing and recoats everything. That would also be why some of the oil copanies advertise how their oil coats and stays longer. :dunno wrong in that most happens at start up thicker oil stick longer and stays for that initail start up while that 5 30 is not even there so it warms up nice and fast while offering less initial protection, great for rings

Here's what I know about motor oil. Take it as you will...Engine builders know the tolerances of bearings, seals, whatever. They also know the viscosity of each oil. If a new car has bearing tolerances of .005" (just throwing that out there) and a 20W50 motor oil will not fall into a .005" gap because of its thicker viscosity...guess what? Premature engine wear. That's why newer cars with tighter tolerances take a thinner oil. My Mustang calls for 5W20. Run 50 weight in it and see what happens. You will get engine wear and from what I've been told you can void a warranty that way. Now, older cars...larger tolerances...you can run a heavier oil. Just throwing that out there...you can throw it back if you want.

Here's what I know about motor oil. Take it as you will...Engine builders know the tolerances of bearings, seals, whatever. They also know the viscosity of each oil. If a new car has bearing tolerances of .005" (just throwing that out there) and a 20W50 motor oil will not fall into a .005" gap because of its thicker viscosity...guess what? Premature engine wear. That's why newer cars with tighter tolerances take a thinner oil. My Mustang calls for 5W20. Run 50 weight in it and see what happens. You will get engine wear and from what I've been told you can void a warranty that way. Now, older cars...larger tolerances...you can run a heavier oil. Just throwing that out there...you can throw it back if you want. Well, Yamaha sells 20w50 Yamalube, and it's approved for use in new Yamahas. I'm using Castrol 20w50 in summer, and 10w40 winter. Using thicker oil in warmer weather gives me peace of mind when I'm running the bike up to redline and generally holding it up above 8,000 RPM for 15-20 minutes at a time. I think it also gives better protection when the coolant temp spikes up to 235*F in traffic on a hot day. Not to mention less shearing by the clutch and transmission gears over time. We know from published research that the viscosity of most oil will degrade over time, and it's a fact that the 20w50, manufactured with a thicker base stock, will experience less viscosity degradation over time than a thinner oil. However, I will admit that there is a downside to using thicker oil--the bike doesn't rev as fast, and generally doesn't feel as lively on the 20w50 molasses (honestly, it feels like it's lost 1-2 HP, judging with my well-calibrated butt dyno!). ...But it shifts a little more smoothly, and the idle is more stable.

like i told you, the difference between let's say a 0W-40 and a 10W-40 is only when it's cold, and when it's cold the oil has higher viscosity than any hot oil. that makes the 0W better on startup and same as the 10W-40 on hot. both will have the same viscosities when hot (a lot under 0W, it will get very thin)

I see that your problems is chosing between a 10W-40 and a 20W-50. the first thing to say is that at startup the 10W will protect better and flow better. when both get hot (both drop their viscosity under any cold oil's viscosity, doesn't matter if there's a 0W) but the 50W will stay a bit more "heavy", less fast revs, but better protection. you can compare the 10W-40 for a fully understanding with honey in startup and water in hot and the 20W-50 with marmalade (thicker than honey) at startup and juice (thicker than water) in hot. Both water and juice are muuuuuuccchhh thiner than honey (or something thiner, like a 0W), so at startup is very clear which product offers the best protection (the 10W) as well as in hot (the -50). I use Royal Purple 20W-50 for my R1 becase I ride only in the summer. plus that according to the manual is covering temps from 5-50 grades Celsius, and the 10W-40 covers -10 (freeing time) to 40-42 grades Celsius). The ideal will be a 10W-50 or 10W-60 (recomended for my M3, Castrol) but i prefer to stick with motorcycle oils. Btw: for the M3 I found Penrite 5W-60 which is the best for cars until now. I also have a test with RP, Penrite and most other car oils but it's to big to attach it, anyone interested give their email.

I see that your problems is chosing between a 10W-40 and a 20W-50. the first thing to say is that at startup the 10W will protect better and flow better. when both get hot (both drop their viscosity under any cold oil's viscosity, doesn't matter if there's a 0W) but the 50W will stay a bit more "heavy", less fast revs, but better protection. you can compare the 10W-40 for a fully understanding with honey in startup and water in hot and the 20W-50 with marmalade (thicker than honey) at startup and juice (thicker than water) in hot. Both water and juice are muuuuuuccchhh thiner than honey (or something thiner, like a 0W), so at startup is very clear which product offers the best protection (the 10W) as well as in hot (the -50). I use Royal Purple 20W-50 for my R1 becase I ride only in the summer. plus that according to the manual is covering temps from 5-50 grades Celsius, and the 10W-40 covers -10 (freeing time) to 40-42 grades Celsius). The ideal will be a 10W-50 or 10W-60 (recomended for my M3, Castrol) but i prefer to stick with motorcycle oils. Btw: for the M3 I found Penrite 5W-60 which is the best for cars until now. I also have a test with RP, Penrite and most other car oils but it's to big to attach it, anyone interested give their email. Difference in cold flow between a -10w and a -20w is only going to be realized I think in temps below about 50*F. This time of year in my general area of the country, the temp will never get that low. IN fact, the temp will be well above 70*F on 90% of startups for me.

Here is a page that explains a great deal... http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

what kind of car is this going in to, some on in ga when to a part store and saw oil that said racing oil 0w30, put it in a 03 honda vtec.on cold start up, had no low oil pressure. it damaged rings cam's and the engine locked up 2 miles from his house

right now i use 5w-30 in my 99 lumina which is 3.1L

right now i use 5w-30 in my 99 lumina which is 3.1L I had the 3.3L in my '90 Buick Century.