Guys i change my tires by myself with nothing else then a car to roll over the tire and debead the sides, and 2 cheap ass bars (not even made to change tires) to take them off or on.

Now the question: retard shop #1 here asks 10$ per tire for balancing, retards #2 and #3 ask 20$ per, wich is quite FKN expensive.

Now say i take the time to balance it myself if i find industrial bearings, will i have to balance them everytime i change the tire on it? I always stick to Diablo Superbike slicks or Diablo Supercorsa DOT... dont know if it really matters what tire is on, are we balancing the rim itself, more then anything ?

every tire is different..the reason for the balancing is to match the tire to the rim so it doesnt vibrate or shake. not every tire comes out of the mold the same the rubber can settle differently for each one. if you dont balance it its possible for you to feel a decent shake in the steering or none at all..just depends. go with the $10 one $20 is hella high. they both use generally the same machine to do it.

http://www.marcparnes.com/Yamaha_Motorcycle_Wheel_Balancer.htm

Guys i change my tires by myself with nothing else then a car to roll over the tire and debead the sides, and 2 cheap ass bars (not even made to change tires) to take them off or on.

Now the question: retard shop #1 here asks 10$ per tire for balancing, retards #2 and #3 ask 20$ per, wich is quite FKN expensive.

Now say i take the time to balance it myself if i find industrial bearings, will i have to balance them everytime i change the tire on it? I always stick to Diablo Superbike slicks or Diablo Supercorsa DOT... dont know if it really matters what tire is on, are we balancing the rim itself, more then anything ?

Why I don't know, but people always seem to assume the valve stem is the heaviest part of the rim so they match that up to the balance dot on the tire, the lightest part of the tire.

I ALWAYS check the balance of the rim itself BEFORE mounting the tires to find the actual heavy spot of the rim and it is never the valve stem.

Somestimes it is close and sometimes not. I then align the balance dot of the tire to the actual heaviest part of the rim and usually need little to no balance weights.

I just bought some BST Carbon fiber rims and the same thing. The heavy part of the rim is no where near the valve stem.

KLW

I have balanced once in 4 years. I line up the dots to the stems and ride. Never had an issue. Doing 160+ runs no problems since I don't stay there that long. On the track only 150+ for the straights and no problems. I guess when I start looking for times will I consider balancing.

When I did do a balance a couple of months ago - i shook in the front and stripped the weights and it went away.

I have spat the weights off a couple of times as they wernt taped up. Didnt notice until I cleaned the rear rim and a friend pointed out the front a couple of months later

When I did do a balance a couple of months ago - i shook in the front and stripped the weights and it went away.



Well, I'd say that you did it wrong then! :lol

Well, I'd say that you did it wrong then! :lol

How much difference do you see in tires from set to set? And what balancing do you have done if any?

I always static balance my wheels and so do my trackside tire guys. They can easily vary 1 or 2 grams.

I always static balance my wheels and so do my trackside tire guys. They can easily vary 1 or 2 grams.

Are you balancing the rim alone, or the tire and rim? If you say there is that much of a variance, I will start balancing on a routine basis again.

Are you balancing the rim alone, or the tire and rim? If you say there is that much of a variance, I will start balancing on a routine basis again.



I balance with the tire on. I usually don't align the tire marks either. They can mean different things depending on brand; some are the light spot, some the heavy spot.

I just did the rear wheel last night with the cush drive and sprocket. It needed 8 weights to balance out!

I balance with the tire on. I usually don't align the tire marks either. They can mean different things depending on brand; some are the light spot, some the heavy spot.

I just did the rear wheel last night with the cush drive and sprocket. It needed 8 weights to balance out!

OK. I'm sold.

I was told to check the rim alone, and mark the true heaviest spot (not always the valve stem) then align that with the mark on the tire. But I'll start checking it all as an assembly.

Thanks Fiveoh! Always good advice from you! :fact

No problem!

Maybe next time I'm doing it myself I will truly balance a wheel, then install a tire and check if the dot is a light or heavy spot on the dunlops...

Maybe I'm looking at this too simplistic. My new 2CT's have no dot. I filled a container with water placed the tire in vertical with enough of a trapped bubble to float tire. Let the tire settle a couple different times and marked top as the light spot. Will static check BST wheels upon reciept and mark heavy point align two marks and hopefully minimum added wieght to balance.

I just did the rear wheel last night with the cush drive and sprocket. It needed 8 weights to balance out!

do you balance them on the bike?

do you balance them on the bike?



Nope.

What do you use? Did you make it or buy it retail? I have been doing mine on the bike with no problems but like Dan said, you have always given good advice.

this is what i use
http://www.tachyonmotorsports.com/balancers.html
i use the third one to the right

Maybe I'm looking at this too simplistic. My new 2CT's have no dot. I filled a container with water placed the tire in vertical with enough of a trapped bubble to float tire. Let the tire settle a couple different times and marked top as the light spot. Will static check BST wheels upon reciept and mark heavy point align two marks and hopefully minimum added wieght to balance.


Michelins don't have a balance dot, they use the bar code. If you look and can find the bar code, thats the balance dot, so to speak.

KLW

Michelins don't have a balance dot, they use the bar code. If you look and can find the bar code, thats the balance dot, so to speak.

KLW

It did not work out that way. Front was off 15 degrees back 170. I thought at first bar code might have signifigance.

Because of Michelin's C3M process their tires are almost perfect, Pirelli uses the C3M as well. I stopped putting mine on the balancer after about the 5th time of not adding or subtracting any weight. I will balance a new set of wheels the first couple of times though. I have heard that a set of suzuki wheels with dunlops can be very difficult to balance.

You wanna fight about it? :crash

:lol

It's kind of a crap shoot, sometimes more, sometimes almost none.

Over a Suzuki wheel? probably not.:flex:

Just goofing around

I actually just switched to a 16.5" front slick. They are supposedly hand made and are not even round, let alone balanced! :lol

I think I need to work on my online sarcasm, add some sarcastic tone and inflection to my post followed by a little ribbing.

I think I need to work on my online sarcasm, add some sarcastic tone and inflection to my post followed by a little ribbing.

The icons are your friends :secret:

They can make the difference between:

Are you crazy? :rant

Are you crazy? :dundun:

Are you crazy? :dunno

and

Are you crazy? :lol

Fiveoh: Have you been running 16.5 inch wheels the whole time?

Nope, just bought it, post crash...

Nope, just bought it, post crash...

Sweet! Details and opinions when you hit the track! :fact

:thumbup

Good information in here.