Amsoil VS Repsol VS Royal Purple VS Mobil POLL

After reading through all 5 pages in this section I wasn't able to find something like this. I know people have reviewd each BRAND separately and said good things about all induvidually, how about we put them together and see which one is more popular "performs better"? AMSOIL REPSOL ROYAL PURPLE MOBIL Lets keep this POLL simple with less reading more good useful info, stay on topic, So people could use this as a reference long after we gone ;) lol Please state: Where you live the temp. during summer and winter. What weight of oil you use. What type regular or synthetic. What BRAND oil and filter Would be nice if you had a chance to use different products to be able to make a comparison to others. Thank you for all the input in advance. Lets make this last OIL thread to which one is better. Also a personal question for people that know what weight of oil should I use in my 04? I live in ARIZONA where the temp during winter is around 70-80 degrees F and summer about 100-110 I wanna say :) like 10W40 or 15W40 or 50 or 20W40 or 50 wtf is the right one for me? Thanks

ohh come on guys dont be shy, already 6 people visited this thread and left no feedback, just be quick, few words on what you use, you got a bike you must be running something. currently I use MAXIMA 4T, regular oil, 10W40, which seems to be the problem with my motor thats why I want to hear from you guys what you use. And I DONT WANT ANYONE LEAVING this thread without sharing their info with us, thanks

Mobil1 4T 10w40 all year long. I'm in Az too.

Ive only used amsoil 0w40 and 10w40 atv and motorcycle formulas and had great results with both of them. I use them in temps anywhere from 30f to 110f track and street riding. Easy starts, easy shifting, long life, and cool operating temps. No reason to try anything else. Only bad part is its a bit expensive. But anyone can get a prefered membership and that knocks a little of the cost down. Its delivered right to my door too.

good stuff keep this going. Another question for you guys, after doing a quick research on PRICES roughly Synthetic Oil cost twice as much as reg. "srry not sure whats the proper term. for it" So about $5 a quart for reg and about $10 for syn. The BIG QUESTION IS: we all know that synthetic is better, but would it be better to change your oil TWICE with reg. oil VS one time with synthitic for the same PRICE? I normally do oil change about every 2k with reg oil how often do you have to do it with synthetic?

i use Mobil 4T and i think the other synthetic by mobil is just racing oil i still change my oil every 3K, is cheap insurance for you motor. i have used most other oils on my cars and bikes but for the past 15 years or so i have used Mobil oil. i have had no issues with this oil breaking down so i'll stick with it.

I use whats on sale at my local cycle gear.:dunno

I think if you were to visit the AMS oil website, you would find that there have been extensive tests with many oils, and are probably giving the answers there you are looking for. Tests such as scar, and wear, and viscosity, and temperature.

I think if you were to visit the AMS oil website, you would find that there have been extensive tests with many oils, and are probably giving the answers there you are looking for. Tests such as scar, and wear, and viscosity, and temperature. You are right, I just wanted to hear RAW info from real life people without some info being hiden or filtered to once benifit.. tell you this I was a click away buying AMSOIL 10W40 about hour ago, then I thought hmm its kinda pricie lol what if I just go with like repsol reg. oil and for the same price get my oil changed twice wouldnt that be a better deal? So now I just want to see what people have to say here. Is the double AMOUNT of $ worth the synthetic oil? why? Im sure someone else will love this post later, because it will have all answers here!

Amsoil 10w40 Synthetic oil with yamaha oem oil filter. Live in central Texas so the bike will see temps from 40-110f. 4-5k oil change intervals

amsoil 10w-40 and amsoil filter. s.fl - hot as fvck in summer and hot as balls in winter change 3k-5k mi would like to try repsol, but i still have a case of amsoil to go through.

I have been using motul 5100 and used rotella 5w40 in my zx10. I may go back to that through the winter with the r1 since all I have in the motul is 15w40. $20 a gallon and change it every 2k miles.

I just rolled over like 24,000 mi. on my 07 R1, so I switched to the Castrol motorcycle-specific full-synthetic in 5W-40 wt. They call it their R4 formula - comes in an aqua-colored bottle. Cycle Gear had it on sale for $7.99 per liter, which seems like a fair price to me, plus I already had a liter of it sitting in my garage from a buddy's oil change. Prior to that, I was using the Castrol moto-specific conventional oil in 10W-40. I tried the 20W-50, but the bike didn't seem to be as lively - revved slower, shifting was sluggish, etc. No complaints with either oil - I will admit that the bike seems to shift smoother with the Full-Syn. And I like the fact that I can leave it in longer. I was going about 2200-2500 miles between oil changes with the conventional, and I won't feel guilty going over 3000 miles between changes with the Full-Syn. So it should actually cost me less to run the Full-Syn. I am not married to the Castrol by any means. If Cycle Gear doesn't have it on sale next time I get ready for an oil change, I'll just use whatever Full-Syn I can find on sale. I know Auto Zone and Advance frequently (like all the time) run a special where you can get 5 qts. of Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 filter for $29.99, which is a good deal. That's what I run in my truck, changed every 5000 miles. I'll have no qualms about running Mobil 1 car oil and filter on my bike. IF I'm not mistaken, the 07+ R1 uses a Mobil 1 ME-110 filter. I run a Purolator Pure One oil filter that cost about $7.00 at Advance Auto Parts. I like the fact that it is longer than an OEM filter, and holds more oil. Gives me a higher oil capacity, and, in turn, better oil quality over the oil change intervals.

nice, Ony 8 people do oil changes though? :) wow 100 people visited so far and only 8 replied? IF you dont have time just give us the oil brand, weight BOOM an u done, thank you.

Amsoil 10W-40 Full Synthetic since first oil change at 800 miles :thumbup

Only 8 and well over half are AMSOIL... Make it another here.. 3 bikes all AMSOIL and one requires three different lubes plus the fork oil. Here is a link to the tests referred to. They were performed by Several of the Top Independent Testing Facilities in the US http://www.bestoil4you.com/files/g2156MCoilStudy.pdf If you are looking at True Synthetics, Then AMSOIL is actually more than cost competitive and rivals Premium Petroleum Products in Cost Per Mile Oil is the Lifeblood of your engine, the Filter is the Kidney that keeps it clean... It may cost a little more upfront to buy the Best, but it pays dividends. Doc

Is there anything else besides Amsoil? :dunno

Spectro with OEM filter. Link (http://www.spectro-oils.com/products/4stroke/platinum.asp)

Is there anything else besides Amsoil? :dunno Not as far as I am concerned. I rather enjoy being able to go up to 2 times the OEM Change interval as long as I use the AMSOIL Filter. I have put on almost 24,000 miles in the last year... First 660 was whatever comes in it and everything AMSOIL Since.. Doc

alright, keep in mind i beet the crap outa just about everything i own including the race cars. palm springs CA summer=100-125 winter 38+ weight of oil=10/30 10/40 or 20/50 full synthetic w/zinc additive mobil 1, royal purple and lucas. i like lucas, but it doesnt like taking mass punishment without a stabilizer mobil 1 in the cheapest oil i will ever put in anything i own. and royal purple is my favorite, it takes heat like no other, lubes just as good as anything out there. and doesnt deteriorate after being over heated, that and if you take it easy after putting it in it can easily stay clean and fresh even after 6 track days. and i use the yamaha filter, because its whats available and mobil 1 doesnt make a filter for it. all of my views have been formed from experiences over the past few years with these oils, they are all available and are reasonably priced and i change my oil every 3-4.5k miles.

Ran Mobil 4xt for 5 years and just switched to Repsol Full Syn.... Great stuff. The whole trick to oil is to change it regularly.......:fact: With any of those brands you cant go wrong, as long as you change it......

Ran Mobil 4xt for 5 years and just switched to Repsol Full Syn.... Great stuff. The whole trick to oil is to change it regularly.......:fact: With any of those brands you cant go wrong, as long as you change it...... unless you buy that mobil 1 0-20, with that stuff you might as well be pissing in the oil fill hole.

alright, keep in mind i beet the crap outa just about everything i own including the race cars. palm springs CA summer=100-125 winter 38+ weight of oil=10/30 10/40 or 20/50 full synthetic w/zinc additive mobil 1, royal purple and lucas. i like lucas, but it doesnt like taking mass punishment without a stabilizer mobil 1 in the cheapest oil i will ever put in anything i own. and royal purple is my favorite, it takes heat like no other, lubes just as good as anything out there. and doesnt deteriorate after being over heated, that and if you take it easy after putting it in it can easily stay clean and fresh even after 6 track days. and i use the yamaha filter, because its whats available and mobil 1 doesnt make a filter for it. all of my views have been formed from experiences over the past few years with these oils, they are all available and are reasonably priced and i change my oil every 3-4.5k miles. Well we have a little conflict here... Royal Purple shears out of grade in the first sequence of a 3 sequence test so I am not sure how you come by your statement.. I would likee to see ASTM tests showing that.. I posted mine but here they are again http://www.bestoil4you.com/files/g2156MCoilStudy.pdf which is a Study performed by Several of the Top Independent Test Facilities in the USA. Next, Lucas is just a poor product period that does not even meet grade before it is subjected to a test.. And if you need stabalizer, you just plain need a better oil. NO oil additives should ever have to be used or should be used. Next, Mobil1 MX 4T is a very good oil as shown in those tests, not a "Cheap" oil. Views formed by experience are great but, need to be backed up by scientific data such as the test reports and oil analysis. I have been riding for over 35 years, I use oil analysis to check the condition of my oil and to form a Change Interval Schedule. 50 weight is not required in these bikes and there is a loss of HP, Fuel mileage and it elevates oil temps. Doc

and i use the yamaha filter, because its whats available and mobil 1 doesnt make a filter for it. Mobil 1 ME-110 fits the 04+ R1.:fact

Well we have a little conflict here... Royal Purple shears out of grade in the first sequence of a 3 sequence test so I am not sure how you come by your statement.. I would likee to see ASTM tests showing that.. I posted mine but here they are again http://www.bestoil4you.com/files/g2156MCoilStudy.pdf which is a Study performed by Several of the Top Independent Test Facilities in the USA. Next, Lucas is just a poor product period that does not even meet grade before it is subjected to a test.. And if you need stabalizer, you just plain need a better oil. NO oil additives should ever have to be used or should be used. Next, Mobil1 MX 4T is a very good oil as shown in those tests, not a "Cheap" oil. Views formed by experience are great but, need to be backed up by scientific data such as the test reports and oil analysis. I have been riding for over 35 years, I use oil analysis to check the condition of my oil and to form a Change Interval Schedule. 50 weight is not required in these bikes and there is a loss of HP, Fuel mileage and it elevates oil temps. Doc Doc, how does the Castrol R4 Superbike Full-Syn do???

unless you buy that mobil 1 0-20, with that stuff you might as well be pissing in the oil fill hole. This is a MotorCycle Forum... That is an automotive oil... There are many vehicles on the market today that Spec a 20 weight oil and there are some on the market that REQUIRE (read Must Use) the use of a 20 weight and cannot run anything else. Doc

Doc, how does the Castrol R4 Superbike Full-Syn do??? That would require for someone to use it and do Trend Analysis at a minimum to even see how it holds up in real life but, there is more to it than that... When Analysis is used to test motor oils, or pit them against each other, it would have to be done while tracking Ambient Air temps, humidity, speed, wind conditions, identical route etc. I am sure it is a decent oil, but it was not tested as it is not in the Top 10 oils as far as sales. AMSOIL has shown Double Digit growth in the MotorCycle oil for at least the last 3 quarters. They are taking that business away from other oil companies for a reason and it is not because they are "Cheap". Doc

Well we have a little conflict here... Royal Purple shears out of grade in the first sequence of a 3 sequence test so I am not sure how you come by your statement.. I would likee to see ASTM tests showing that.. I posted mine but here they are again http://www.bestoil4you.com/files/g2156MCoilStudy.pdf which is a Study performed by Several of the Top Independent Test Facilities in the USA. Next, Lucas is just a poor product period that does not even meet grade before it is subjected to a test.. And if you need stabalizer, you just plain need a better oil. NO oil additives should ever have to be used or should be used. Next, Mobil1 MX 4T is a very good oil as shown in those tests, not a "Cheap" oil. \ Views formed by experience are great but, need to be backed up by scientific data such as the test reports and oil analysis. I have been riding for over 35 years, I use oil analysis to check the condition of my oil and to form a Change Interval Schedule. 50 weight is not required in these bikes and there is a loss of HP, Fuel mileage and it elevates oil temps. Doc first off i mean no offense here, just telling it like it is... first you can shove those lab tests up your ass. everything i do, i do in the real world, under real world circumstances, i have torn apart quite a few motors in my time only to find that that the higher end oils, mobil 1 lucas, RP have resulted in the motors showing less wear then with the cheaper brands, and well you can shove regular drum oil too, second, royal purple has been my personal favorite because i have over heated it many times and it still comes out looking fresh clean. and lucas is such a poor product that just about every major race series including even the small time circle track guys have been running and continue to run it in there race motors. as for the stabilizer if you have ever pulled off the road on your bike after doing 10k for about 10 minutes you can clearly that the oil is going to be fizzing and bubbling up, i added .5 a quart of lucas stabilizer to it and not only did it drop temps, but the oil actually holds together better and isnt so easy to over heat and it overall lubes better with it when your oil is hot. and i will give you money if you can run a flat tappet motor without a zinc additive, you see how long that cam will last without any zinc. third i agree 50wt is not needed or necessary, but when these bikes are hitting oil temps not normally seen by man, i dont mind a little sacrifice for protectoin. oh and all of data comes from about 200 or so years that engines have been around. I'm not some little punk ass kid playing with daddy's money i have been doing this for about 8 years, my friends have been building motors and racing cars/bikes for about 40 ontop of all the facts on the internet as well as several engine dyno tests. and here is what happens when you dont have any zinc in your oil.... http://www.timgilles.com/photogallery/Engines/5.21flatcamlobes.jpg i will have a few people come by and explain it, as they know the science behind it better then i do. still no offense to anyone, im not trying to be an asshole or a dick, just laying the cards strait as they are.

Again, Lucas sucks and if you need an additive, you just need a better oil... MotorCycle Forum, let's stay with M/C Products for this. All of your MotorCycle Specific oils have a higher ZDDP additive due to the flat tappet or bucket style lifters. AMSOIL runs higher ZDDP than most. The only reason to run a 50 weight on the street is when using a Petroleum oil during high ambient temps and sustained (1 hour or more) high speed driving. This is not necessary with Top Tier Synthetics as most can handle oil temps well over 300 Degrees F which is doubtful the oil in a bike will ever see those temps. If they do, you have a lot worse problems than worrying about oil. ASTM Tests mean a whole lot because they can be totally duplicated unlike the One Armed Bandit that people get suckered into from TV and seeing at fairs and the like. Then they are backed with Tests and Oil Analysis from the real world.. running oil and filters to 4 times the OEM recommended for testing. (MotorCycles) 35 years experience. And BTW... AMSOIL is used be several of the top NASCAR teams, Several Top Monster Trucks, Sport Racers, World of Outlaw Sprint Cars, Top C.O.R.R. Teams, the number 1 Offshore Team, Top F1 Champ Boats, several of which are sponsored by a different oil company, and I know because I have personally sold to them. Thanks, Doc

texas/arkansas border here. 20-30's in winter, 110 or so in summer. i was running royal purple 10w 40, then swithched to 10w 30. i went synthetic @ about 10 or 12k, i now have 22k on an '05 r1. i bought it to ride, but i do not abuse it and i have had great luck with the royal purple. however, i am not able to easily locate it here in hillbilly hell. i may be switching to motul or repsol synthetic for ease of replacement in the future.

texas/arkansas border here. 20-30's in winter, 110 or so in summer. i was running royal purple 10w 40, then swithched to 10w 30. i went synthetic @ about 10 or 12k, i now have 22k on an '05 r1. i bought it to ride, but i do not abuse it and i have had great luck with the royal purple. however, i am not able to easily locate it here in hillbilly hell. i may be switching to motul or repsol synthetic for ease of replacement in the future. Or, you could buy AMSOIL @ Dealer Cost and have The Big Brown Truck drop it on your door so you don't have to look for it.. Doc

first off i mean no offense here, just telling it like it is... first you can shove those lab tests up your ass. everything i do, i do in the real world, under real world circumstances, i have torn apart quite a few motors in my time only to find that that the higher end oils, mobil 1 lucas, RP have resulted in the motors showing less wear then with the cheaper brands, and well you can shove regular drum oil too, second, royal purple has been my personal favorite because i have over heated it many times and it still comes out looking fresh clean. and lucas is such a poor product that just about every major race series including even the small time circle track guys have been running and continue to run it in there race motors. as for the stabilizer if you have ever pulled off the road on your bike after doing 10k for about 10 minutes you can clearly that the oil is going to be fizzing and bubbling up, i added .5 a quart of lucas stabilizer to it and not only did it drop temps, but the oil actually holds together better and isnt so easy to over heat and it overall lubes better with it when your oil is hot. and i will give you money if you can run a flat tappet motor without a zinc additive, you see how long that cam will last without any zinc. third i agree 50wt is not needed or necessary, but when these bikes are hitting oil temps not normally seen by man, i dont mind a little sacrifice for protectoin. oh and all of data comes from about 200 or so years that engines have been around. I'm not some little punk ass kid playing with daddy's money i have been doing this for about 8 years, my friends have been building motors and racing cars/bikes for about 40 ontop of all the facts on the internet as well as several engine dyno tests. and here is what happens when you dont have any zinc in your oil.... http://www.timgilles.com/photogallery/Engines/5.21flatcamlobes.jpg i will have a few people come by and explain it, as they know the science behind it better then i do. still no offense to anyone, im not trying to be an asshole or a dick, just laying the cards strait as they are. I can't wait to see what the engine looks like with the Royal Purple. I am part owner of ARC Racing engines. I wouldn't run the crap in a Briggs&Stratton! I have seen what it does to an engine. It makes a build up of sludge leading to clogged oil passeges, and frying engines. Yes we build engines for Sprint cars, dragsters, Nationwide series, outlaws, dirt latemodels, ARCA, etc..... On dyno tests we have never, and I mean never gained horse power by a brand of oil! Please show a cam that matters next time. http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k292/ravenrider55/001-2.jpg Here are Cams in a Yamaha R1 with 31,000 miles using Yamalube semi synthetic lube. This engine didn't even need the valves re-shimmed.

Or, you could buy AMSOIL @ Dealer Cost and have The Big Brown Truck drop it on your door so you don't have to look for it.. Doc 10-4 I actually found mobil 1 at the local autozone. i was quite shocked but it is an in stock item. i would have never thought to look at autozone, but mobil 1's website sent me there. will see how it goes this oil change. btw, i don't have good luck with the brown clowns here, at work we receive A TON of damged goods, i would prefer to buy locally to eliminate any doubts.

10-4 I actually found mobil 1 at the local autozone. i was quite shocked but it is an in stock item. i would have never thought to look at autozone, but mobil 1's website sent me there. will see how it goes this oil change. btw, i don't have good luck with the brown clowns here, at work we receive A TON of damged goods, i would prefer to buy locally to eliminate any doubts. AUTOZONE approached AMSOIL a few years ago but at that time, they were not willing to abide by the policies AMSOIL has in effect. Same with Pep Boy's, Wal-Mart Etc.. That is starting to change on a store by store basis... Yes, we have a few problems with delayed orders and damaged goods, but no different than the Retail outlets have when they receive their product when sent by Common Courier or even their own trucks.. I ship many Thousands of dollars of AMSOIL every month and only have a few problems once in a while. Would rather have FedEx... but that is not who Corporate has chosen to business with.. Doc

I can't wait to see what the engine looks like with the Royal Purple. I am part owner of ARC Racing engines. I wouldn't run the crap in a Briggs&Stratton! I have seen what it does to an engine. It makes a build up of sludge leading to clogged oil passeges, and frying engines. Yes we build engines for Sprint cars, dragsters, Nationwide series, outlaws, dirt latemodels, ARCA, etc..... On dyno tests we have never, and I mean never gained horse power by a brand of oil! Please show a cam that matters next time. Here are Cams in a Yamaha R1 with 31,000 miles using Yamalube semi synthetic lube. This engine didn't even need the valves re-shimmed. I have never been a lover of RP myself. It has shown to Shear quite quickly just for starters. Although, we have seen HP Gains from Various oils, Royal Purple being one, just HP increases are not enough. You can throw Stoddard Solvent in an oil and have increased HP #s and cooler oil temps... For a while.. As your engine slowly grinds itself to death... Just recently, I received an email copy of a Dyno run from a MotorCycle where the first oil was Rotella, I believe, and the next oil was AMSOIL's new Racing Dominator 15W-50. I thought for sure the Rotella would do better, just because it is a 40 weight, but it didn't and there was about a 3 HP gain with the AMSOIL. Flat Cams and cam galling are getting to be more prevalent as oil companies lower the amount of ZDDP which is the Anti-Wear additive for Flat tappet type lifters.. AMSOIL, in it's M/C oils, Dominator Series oils, ATV oils and a few others has high enough ZDDP Levels to avoid this.. I personally sell AMSOIL to a couple of WoW Teams, various other auto racing teams and Boat Racers.. Some have some Big Sponsorships from other oil companies. A friend of a friend sells to DEI and, all of Rousch Racing uses AMSOIL. If you would like to try AMSOIL Dominator, or any AMSOIL Product in a Dyno run or so, I will sell it to you at 5% under Dealer Cost.. (Personal Rebate) Doc

amsoil 10w-40

AMSOIL has shown Double Digit growth in the MotorCycle oil for at least the last 3 quarters. They are taking that business away from other oil companies for a reason and it is not because they are "Cheap". Doc You forgot, Amsoil is cheaper when you're doing extended drain intervals with them like you're suppose to, for street. Right now my last time I changed my motorcycle oil was 3 years ago. That was because I dropped my drain plug when sampling it. Since the last oil analysis on my wifes car turned up a slight coolant leak, I'll be benching marking that to see how long I can go with her car (now that, that problem was fixed). I'll be testing my car next year.

Royal Purple Max Cycle 10W30 here. Try it once and you will be convinced :thumbup

Royal Purple Max Cycle 10W30 here. Try it once and you will be convinced :thumbup As it shears out of grade and you have less protection.... Doc

[QUOTE=aaron_mahnken;3750435]You forgot, Amsoil is cheaper when you're doing extended drain intervals with them like you're suppose to, for street. Right now my last time I changed my motorcycle oil was 3 years ago. That was because I dropped my drain plug when sampling it. [QUOTE] Please don't tell me that you have left the same oil in the bike for 3 years. AMSOIL does not promote longer than a 1 year change interval, unless accompanied by Oil Analysis, Regardless of mileage.. Neither do I Doc

Hey Doc this Question is for u .... On all my cars they come with reg oil. I switch to the Wal Mart Super Tech Full Synthetic Oil and run it for a week and then drain it. After that I put the good stuff mobile1.. can i do the same thing with the Wal Mart Super Tech Full Synthetic Oil on the motorcycle? I want to run it for like 20 minutes and then drain it. I want to put repsol oil after that to make it fully synthetic.

I have never been a lover of RP myself. It has shown to Shear quite quickly just for starters. Although, we have seen HP Gains from Various oils, Royal Purple being one, just HP increases are not enough. You can throw Stoddard Solvent in an oil and have increased HP #s and cooler oil temps... For a while.. As your engine slowly grinds itself to death... Just recently, I received an email copy of a Dyno run from a MotorCycle where the first oil was Rotella, I believe, and the next oil was AMSOIL's new Racing Dominator 15W-50. I thought for sure the Rotella would do better, just because it is a 40 weight, but it didn't and there was about a 3 HP gain with the AMSOIL. Flat Cams and cam galling are getting to be more prevalent as oil companies lower the amount of ZDDP which is the Anti-Wear additive for Flat tappet type lifters.. AMSOIL, in it's M/C oils, Dominator Series oils, ATV oils and a few others has high enough ZDDP Levels to avoid this.. I personally sell AMSOIL to a couple of WoW Teams, various other auto racing teams and Boat Racers.. Some have some Big Sponsorships from other oil companies. A friend of a friend sells to DEI and, all of Rousch Racing uses AMSOIL. If you would like to try AMSOIL Dominator, or any AMSOIL Product in a Dyno run or so, I will sell it to you at 5% under Dealer Cost.. (Personal Rebate) Doc Hmmmmm well sorry but Roush uses Valvoline... I know it for a fact. DEI doesn't use it either. They are using Texaco Havoline.:nopity:

I have an 03' R1 and I use Yamalube 20W50 Semi-Synthetic with a OEM Yamaha filter. The bike runs strong and shift so smooth. People complain that their bike revs slow and that it's sluggish with a 20W50. It's a bunch of BS. The bike is NM and it sees temps of 25 to 35 degrees in the winter and 95 to 105 degrees in summer so the 20W50 covers that broad range. It all comes down to people's preference though. Any oil is good as long as you stay true to the services and not neglect servicing your bike.

Hey Doc this Question is for u .... On all my cars they come with reg oil. I switch to the Wal Mart Super Tech Full Synthetic Oil and run it for a week and then drain it. After that I put the good stuff mobile1.. can i do the same thing with the Wal Mart Super Tech Full Synthetic Oil on the motorcycle? I want to run it for like 20 minutes and then drain it. I want to put repsol oil after that to make it fully synthetic. A huge waste of money for the car and if the Wal-Mart oil does Not carry the JASO MA or MA-2 Rating, I wouldn't let it within 10 foot of my bike.. You get what you pay for... Junk when you put it in, junkier when you drain it out.. I have an engine flush for under $5.00 Same with the Mobil 1... If it is not Mobil 1 EP (Extended Performance) for your car, it is not the Good Stuff... For the MotorCycle, it must be the Mobil 1 MotorCycle Specific oil. We have ben seeing problems when people use the Automotive M-1 especially when they switch to another oil. Of course, the other oil is what gets the blame, not the owner for running an improper oil. You may want to check out my prices for AMSOIL and the EAOM filter.. I have two different grades.. One M/C Specific with an MA-2 Rating and one with an MA Rating.. The M/c Spcific also has other additives.. http://www.bestoil4you.com/files/g2156MCoilStudy.pdf Doc

A huge waste of money for the car and if the Wal-Mart oil does Not carry the JASO MA or MA-2 Rating, I wouldn't let it within 10 foot of my bike.. You get what you pay for... Junk when you put it in, junkier when you drain it out.. I have an engine flush for under $5.00 Same with the Mobil 1... If it is not Mobil 1 EP (Extended Performance) for your car, it is not the Good Stuff... For the MotorCycle, it must be the Mobil 1 MotorCycle Specific oil. We have ben seeing problems when people use the Automotive M-1 especially when they switch to another oil. Of course, the other oil is what gets the blame, not the owner for running an improper oil. You may want to check out my prices for AMSOIL and the EAOM filter.. I have two different grades.. One M/C Specific with an MA-2 Rating and one with an MA Rating.. The M/c Spcific also has other additives.. http://www.bestoil4you.com/files/g2156MCoilStudy.pdf Doc what do u think about repsol? what do think im doing repsol Semi-Synthetic for 2000 and go to fully

what do u think about repsol? what do think im doing repsol Semi-Synthetic for 2000 and go to fully I do not have enough information on Repsol to form an educated opinion. Do not take the following wrong, it is not directed at you as I think you have just read too much from people that have no idea what they are talking about... I fail to see any reason why anyone wil run the petroleum oil for however long and then this oil for X amount of time and then switch to whatever oil at such a time... Run the OEM Oil until 600 Miles and change it to a Premium Synthetic such as AMSOIL.. 4 qts AMSOIL MCF $42.10 plus tax Looking for a less expensive but still synthetic ? 4 qts AMSOIL AMO $37.30 Plus Tx Of course, if you run the AMSOIL Filter, you can take the AMSOIL to Double mileage on the change.

I live in NYC.... use Repsol 4T full synthetic 10w40.

I live in NYC.... use Repsol 4T full synthetic 10w40. send him ur used oil to him........:lol

shell rotella T full synth, use it in every engine you own, car, bike, lawnmower, everything.

shell rotella T full synth, use it in every engine you own, car, bike, lawnmower, everything. I do use it in the bike now, but I don't think I want to run 40w in my truck.

This answer your question?? :flex:

Best Answer..

Did I hear you say a oil filter will let you double your amsoil change interval? Do explain please.

Motul 300V Full syn... 5w/40

send him ur used oil to him........:lol :lol:lol

Did I hear you say a oil filter will let you double your amsoil change interval? Do explain please. What I have said is that when using AMSOIL (MotorCycle Oils) in conjunction with the AMSOIL EA Series Filter, you can double your oil change interval from the OEM Interval... Up to double the mileage and up to one year. If using a different filter, you would need to change the filter at the OEM Recommended change interval and top off the oil to go to next interval for a complete change. A couple things make this possible. AMSOILS's superior additive package and high TBN are one The AMSOIL EA Series filter are made of a Patented Nano-Fiber Media which allows great flow along with superior filtration. Doc

So would Amsoil pick up the repair costs of a 1 year old bike with internal engine damage when the dealer walks away from the warranty obligations because the bike went 1 year without a oil change?

So would Amsoil pick up the repair costs of a 1 year old bike with internal engine damage when the dealer walks away from the warranty obligations because the bike went 1 year without a oil change? As long as....Mileage limits, Unmodified engine in mechanically sound condition, which means no exhaust, tuners and especially a junk K&N Filter or similar. A sample of the oil must be sent to AMSOIL Inc. If the oil comes back in serviceable condition and no additives... It has to be the oils fault and the Dealer has no authority to "Walk Away" from anything.. If the oil comes back within Spec, common sense says the problem is someplace else which could include operator error.

As it shears out of grade and you have less protection.... Doc All oil that I'm aware of shears out of grade at some point. :chair: I'll take the increased performance that Royal Purple gives. Possibly at some point it will shear to a point that is detrimental to my motor, but I have not reached it yet in 25,000 track miles and probably 250,000+ street miles :) This answer your question?? :flex: Yes sir, I see you know a good oil :flex: Best Answer.. Maybe in a Hardley or in a Napscar :crash :hammer:

All oil that I'm aware of shears out of grade at some point. :chair: I'll take the increased performance that Royal Purple gives. Possibly at some point it will shear to a point that is detrimental to my motor, but I have not reached it yet in 25,000 track miles and probably 250,000+ street miles :) Maybe in a Hardley or in a Napscar No, all oils do not shear out of grade... some do, some don't. RP Shears out of grade in the 1st Sequence of a 3 Sequence ASTM Test. Performance gain, sure.. Increased engine wear.. Yes... Not sure what Harley or NASCAR has to do with anything. But I do find that many of the people who make fun of Harley's, have a deep seated desire to own one. Doc

anyone an Amsoil Rep that gets a discount?

anyone an Amsoil Rep that gets a discount? AMSOIL@bestoil4you.com Doc

Ok.... Just about to do my first oil change, and was hoping for some info on Royal Purple, its getting some awesome feedback over here.... Sorry I cant comment on what I'm using.... C'MON GUYS!!!!!!!!!

Ok.... Just about to do my first oil change, and was hoping for some info on Royal Purple, its getting some awesome feedback over here.... Sorry I cant comment on what I'm using.... C'MON GUYS!!!!!!!!! Just about anything BUT Royal Purple... I just saw an Oil Analysis Report on another site and the Royal Purple did exactly what the test reports below said it does. Less than 3000 miles and it had sheared to a 20 wgt. The guy was wondering why his engine seemed noisier than usual.. http://bestoil4you.com/files/g2156MCoilStudy.pdf

I use amsoil in the race bike (06 GSXR 600) and in my old 06 R1. I noticed much smoother shifting in the Yammi, and the slipper clutch like the Amsoil as well in the Zuke. I live in South Florida and it gets hot as hell down here. I use K&N filters and change it 3k or 4 Trackdays

Finally got a chance to try out Amsoil yesterday. I have pretty much tried everything from Repsol to Motul to Mobil 1. In MY own personal opinion this is by far the best oil I have used! I know its only been a day but riding my bike to work this morning (38miles) was a blast. Shifting has never been this smooth before! Bike feels really smooth. Hopefully ill feel the same way as I put more miles on this oil

Amsoil in my Aprilia Repsol in my Yamaha

I use Repsol 4t synn in my bike.. never anything else and have never had a problem.... I like the test amsoil did... I'd like to know what a lot of racers actually use out there and what is best for the motor... $70 oil changes every weekend are half of track fees almost... For those who race what do you use???? How often do you change... and what weight??? I'm guessing always synthetic and I run U4...

I use Repsol 4t synn in my bike.. never anything else and have never had a problem.... I like the test amsoil did... I'd like to know what a lot of racers actually use out there and what is best for the motor... $70 oil changes every weekend are half of track fees almost... For those who race what do you use???? How often do you change... and what weight??? I'm guessing always synthetic and I run U4... Why would you have to change after a race for one ? Not sure why it would be $70.00 for another.. 4 qts of 10W-40 MCF and a 103 Filter are less than $55.00 plus tax Put some miles on that oil and run a $23.00 Oil Analysis on it to see where it is at... I will bet you are dumping perfectly good oil. Doc

Why would you have to change after a race for one ? Not sure why it would be $70.00 for another.. 4 qts of 10W-40 MCF and a 103 Filter are less than $55.00 plus tax Put some miles on that oil and run a $23.00 Oil Analysis on it to see where it is at... I will bet you are dumping perfectly good oil. Doc First its after a three day weekend... not justt a race. I figure its about at least 200 miles of balls out racing Combined in three days... almost everyone there changes as well. In a single track day I'll get 130+ miles in. I usually do after two track days as well. And I will get an oil analysis as well, good point. 4 qts here cost me 47.00 and a filter is 16.99... thats typical all around Denver. I always add a tube of BG in with it for shifts as well.... really made a difference in smoothness. so yeah close to 70 bucks... i appreciate the info as well

First its after a three day weekend... not justt a race. I figure its about at least 200 miles of balls out racing Combined in three days... almost everyone there changes as well. In a single track day I'll get 130+ miles in. I usually do after two track days as well. And I will get an oil analysis as well, good point. 4 qts here cost me 47.00 and a filter is 16.99... thats typical all around Denver. I always add a tube of BG in with it for shifts as well.... really made a difference in smoothness. so yeah close to 70 bucks... i appreciate the info as well Sorry, Many of the guys I deal with are 1 day warriors I still don't think that is enough to hurt the oil. The only thing that would worry me is the BG... it may break the additive packs down faster... may not As far as your cost.... that is $10.00 more than me.... call me... also call me on the Analysis Kit... $10.00 is $10.00

Sorry, Many of the guys I deal with are 1 day warriors I still don't think that is enough to hurt the oil. The only thing that would worry me is the BG... it may break the additive packs down faster... may not As far as your cost.... that is $10.00 more than me.... call me... also call me on the Analysis Kit... $10.00 is $10.00 Got a number? and is it usable more than once for the testing, or once per kit? if not i'll get a couple... Wish I could buy like 10 gal drum at discount cost of oil... stuff keeps going up! Yet crude is going down...

Got a number? and is it usable more than once for the testing, or once per kit? if not i'll get a couple... Wish I could buy like 10 gal drum at discount cost of oil... stuff keeps going up! Yet crude is going down... 1 Kit, 1 Sample... It takes about 2 weeks to get the kit right now, this will change in about 60 days when they are put into our warehouses Unfortunately, the PAO Refineries are still offline from Hurricane Damage and the additive prices haven't gone down. Send me an email, oildoc@bestoil4you.com and I will shoot you some pricing. We have it in Qts., cases of 12, Gallons, 30 Gal, 55 Gal, 275 gal Totes, Tankers and Rail Cars. As weight goes up, cost of freight per pound goes down... Give me an idea of what you may order so I can get an estimate including freight. It is actually less freight to send a case than 11 Qts. Toll Free 1-877-356-6099 Doc

lol. I'll take a rail car of oil. oil change for all at my place! :p

lol. I'll take a rail car of oil. oil change for all at my place! :p LOL.... That would be enough oil for a week or two anyway... Break out the Credit Card and call me.. If you have that kind of limit on your card, I am sure you will have a boatload of new friends as well. LOL Doc

I am no oil expert but I think it is kind of silly to make statements about how long you can run any oil without a UOA on the specific bike. To me it doesn?t matter if the TBN is still good if there is high lead and silicon in the oil....It matters more about the amount of wear on the engine, how well the AF is working and what the VIS looks like than TBN amount under normal conditions in my opinion... Step 1. Call Blackstone and get a free UOA kit. Step 2. Do a second UOA Step 3. Make assumptions about OCI's and oil quality.....

I am no oil expert but I think it is kind of silly to make statements about how long you can run any oil without a UOA on the specific bike. To me it doesn?t matter if the TBN is still good if there is high lead and silicon in the oil....It matters more about the amount of wear on the engine, how well the AF is working and what the VIS looks like than TBN amount under normal conditions in my opinion... Step 1. Call Blackstone and get a free UOA kit. Step 2. Do a second UOA Step 3. Make assumptions about OCI's and oil quality..... Some of what you are saying is true.. AMSOIL's statememnt of extended drain intervals to 2 times OEM up to 1 yr is based on: Mechanically Sound, Unmodified Engines and has been tested to that in real life. Something as simple as an aftermarket air filter such as a K&N or use of another oil filter other than the AMSOIL EA Series will mean that the Interval is to remain at the OEM Recommended. I perform Analysis on my bike every oil change. I am at about 90% of doubling my change interval where 2 other similar bikes that we do analysis on are able to go 3 times the OEM Drain.. Difference ? I have a Modified Exhaust, Race Tuner and Air Filter which was a K&N but has since been removed due to analysis reports of High Silica and Elevated Wear Metals. I run rich to keep the engine temps cooler which effects the oil life. I also run fuel additives and occassionally I run 110 Racing fuel. Common Sense needs to be used.... If you redline all the time (abuse) or have modifications I would recommend Oil Analysis but you also have to use the Same oil to build a Trend. As far as companies for analysis... Blackstone is not Free... No company is.. I prefer Oil Analyzers Inc as the Analysis Reports I have seen from them are duplicateable and accurate and for under $23.00 Bob S.

Some of what you are saying is true.. AMSOIL's statememnt of extended drain intervals to 2 times OEM up to 1 yr is based on: Mechanically Sound, Unmodified Engines and has been tested to that in real life. Something as simple as an aftermarket air filter such as a K&N or use of another oil filter other than the AMSOIL EA Series will mean that the Interval is to remain at the OEM Recommended. I perform Analysis on my bike every oil change. I am at about 90% of doubling my change interval where 2 other similar bikes that we do analysis on are able to go 3 times the OEM Drain.. Difference ? I have a Modified Exhaust, Race Tuner and Air Filter which was a K&N but has since been removed due to analysis reports of High Silica and Elevated Wear Metals. I run rich to keep the engine temps cooler which effects the oil life. I also run fuel additives and occassionally I run 110 Racing fuel. Common Sense needs to be used.... If you redline all the time (abuse) or have modifications I would recommend Oil Analysis but you also have to use the Same oil to build a Trend. As far as companies for analysis... Blackstone is not Free... No company is.. I prefer Oil Analyzers Inc as the Analysis Reports I have seen from them are duplicateable and accurate and for under $23.00 Bob S. I took you up n that oil analysis kit and tested my old oil out of both bikes...... Lets put it this way I AM changing waaaayyyy toooo soon.

I took you up n that oil analysis kit and tested my old oil out of both bikes...... Lets put it this way I AM changing waaaayyyy toooo soon. Some people are just like you and change too soon but then I get the other crowd as well and think that just because AMSOIL can do extended Drains, every other oil can too. Somewhere, there is some middle ground. This is a pic of my drain pan and the sludge formed from one such person that believed so.

Some of what you are saying is true.. AMSOIL's statememnt of extended drain intervals to 2 times OEM up to 1 yr is based on: Mechanically Sound, Unmodified Engines and has been tested to that in real life. Something as simple as an aftermarket air filter such as a K&N or use of another oil filter other than the AMSOIL EA Series will mean that the Interval is to remain at the OEM Recommended. I perform Analysis on my bike every oil change. I am at about 90% of doubling my change interval where 2 other similar bikes that we do analysis on are able to go 3 times the OEM Drain.. Difference ? I have a Modified Exhaust, Race Tuner and Air Filter which was a K&N but has since been removed due to analysis reports of High Silica and Elevated Wear Metals. I run rich to keep the engine temps cooler which effects the oil life. I also run fuel additives and occassionally I run 110 Racing fuel. Common Sense needs to be used.... If you redline all the time (abuse) or have modifications I would recommend Oil Analysis but you also have to use the Same oil to build a Trend. As far as companies for analysis... Blackstone is not Free... No company is.. I prefer Oil Analyzers Inc as the Analysis Reports I have seen from them are duplicateable and accurate and for under $23.00 Bob S. What i was getting at is that most people on this forum have the basic mods to their bikes and that these arbitary ideas about doubling or going to extreme OCI's based on an additive pack or TBN # is a bad idea. Even on a stock motor, if it is in purfect running order and fits your discription above you can get a good dino oil and go double OCI. I talk with Blackstone frequently and no one there even uses syn oils in their cars. I think they know a thing or two about oil. In regards to blackstone; they are a reputable lab and their KIT is free, not the UOA itself. that is 23 bucks.

What i was getting at is that most people on this forum have the basic mods to their bikes and that these arbitary ideas about doubling or going to extreme OCI's based on an additive pack or TBN # is a bad idea. Even on a stock motor, if it is in purfect running order and fits your discription above you can get a good dino oil and go double OCI. I talk with Blackstone frequently and no one there even uses syn oils in their cars. I think they know a thing or two about oil. In regards to blackstone; they are a reputable lab and their KIT is free, not the UOA itself. that is 23 bucks. Never said Blackstone wasn't a good lab, I just prefer Oil Analyzers as we have seen more consistant results on re-tests. No one using Synthetic at Blackstone, almost everyone at Oil Analyzers Inc. uses AMSOIL... In some instances you may get a Petroleum oil to go extended changes. It is not a good practice without using UOA. As I have said, I know many people doing UOA with the same bikes as mine (without mods) going 3 times OEM recommended and more. I am dumping more fuel in than they are and thus contaminating the oil quicker. Synthetics have proven to be a Superior Lubricant although Petroleum oils do have their place. (Oil Burners) No one can argue the Fact the Reasonable results can be had by using a Good Petroleum oil and good filter. Superior results can be had by using a Premium Synthetic Lubricant and a Premium Filter and this has shown true for over 35 years now. Although the Base Stocks are important, a modern engine would not live for long without the Additive Packs. They are essential. Oil IS the Lifeblood of your Engine, the filter is the Kidney that keeps it clean. Bob S.

I'm still slightly new to the bike maintanence scene, however, I would have figured that Royal Purple would have tested better. This is pretty opposite from the 10w30 type oils that run in car engines. I've been running Royal Purple in my Evo for sometime now and have never been happier, I've even seen tests where the results were quite astounding how well RP did against competitors. All I've got to say is that I'm quite surprised and glad I read this as I was looking up info on the RP motorcycle oil so I could get some at my 600 mile mark. Looks like I'll be trying out the Amsoil. Learn something new everyday. Doc, you'll have an e-mail from me to get some pricing for cases and some oil filters.

need more oil threads http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/badteeth.gif

AMS does have my attention... I have not switched over yet from Repsol.... but they have me a thinking

My first 2 oil changes was 10W40 of whatever is on sale at fleet farm. :) I'm going with repsol oil or amsoil this spring. Since we're on the topic of oil, anyone know the product number for an amsoil filter for a 07 R1?

I'm still slightly new to the bike maintanence scene, however, I would have figured that Royal Purple would have tested better. This is pretty opposite from the 10w30 type oils that run in car engines. I've been running Royal Purple in my Evo for sometime now and have never been happier, I've even seen tests where the results were quite astounding how well RP did against competitors. All I've got to say is that I'm quite surprised and glad I read this as I was looking up info on the RP motorcycle oil so I could get some at my 600 mile mark. Looks like I'll be trying out the Amsoil. Learn something new everyday. Doc, you'll have an e-mail from me to get some pricing for cases and some oil filters. Thanks... Are you on EVOm ? I am no longer a member there but I have over 1500 EVOm Members buying from me. SSO 0W-30 is the #1 oil, EAO-46 oil filter, MTG for your tranny and SVG for the TC and Diff. Been on the bike all day, trying to warm up and will check emails.. Doc

My first 2 oil changes was 10W40 of whatever is on sale at fleet farm. :) I'm going with repsol oil or amsoil this spring. Since we're on the topic of oil, anyone know the product number for an amsoil filter for a 07 R1? EAOM-103 for the filter, MCF is the 10W-40 MotorCycle Specific and AMO is the Automotive 10W-40 with a JASO MA Rating Doc

I have been out of bikes for a few years and just last year got back into them but I used to use Golden Spectro and Silkolene. A couple things to put in perspective. First you should be changing your oil every 3 months or 3K or so no matter what you use and more often if you race the bike. No matter what mileage i put on a bike I change it every spring minimum. Every oil that meets the current standard (SH?) performs to that standard which is damn good and MORE then you need it to if you are changing it within the period you should be. People worried about using synth oil so they can go 10K or whatever between oil changes should be hit with a shovel. If you cant afford to maintain your bike /car/ etc trying to find special magic super oil that allows you to change it at vast mileages is not the answer. Beyond breaking down oil is subject to assault that ruin it no matter how resistant it is to abuse. Just because it does not break down under load at 3k miles does not mean acids and contaminates from combustion is not diluting and effecting its effectiveness. Never listen to someone who sells oil (or anything else for that matter) when they say it is better then someone else's product. I work on Nissans and will tell you they are better then Hondas etc every day of the week. I am fairly certain someone from Honda will tell you all their tests show Hondas are better then Nissan. Don't get all tied up on what is the magic oil solution. Pick a good quality oil you can afford to change your oil with as often as you should and do it. I have a question though. Has anyone used M1 0-30 in their bike? I have this for the Nissan GTR in stock and thought it may be neat to use in the R1 just for the gains due to lower viscosity. It is Ester based too so thinking maybe slicker shifting. Anyone know hos this type of oil reacts to the clutch?

I have been out of bikes for a few years and just last year got back into them but I used to use Golden Spectro and Silkolene. A couple things to put in perspective. First you should be changing your oil every 3 months or 3K or so no matter what you use and more often if you race the bike. No matter what mileage i put on a bike I change it every spring minimum. Every oil that meets the current standard (SH?) performs to that standard which is damn good and MORE then you need it to if you are changing it within the period you should be. People worried about using synth oil so they can go 10K or whatever between oil changes should be hit with a shovel. If you cant afford to maintain your bike /car/ etc trying to find special magic super oil that allows you to change it at vast mileages is not the answer. Beyond breaking down oil is subject to assault that ruin it no matter how resistant it is to abuse. Just because it does not break down under load at 3k miles does not mean acids and contaminates from combustion is not diluting and effecting its effectiveness. Never listen to someone who sells oil (or anything else for that matter) when they say it is better then someone else's product. I work on Nissans and will tell you they are better then Hondas etc every day of the week. I am fairly certain someone from Honda will tell you all their tests show Hondas are better then Nissan. Don't get all tied up on what is the magic oil solution. Pick a good quality oil you can afford to change your oil with as often as you should and do it. I have a question though. Has anyone used M1 0-30 in their bike? I have this for the Nissan GTR in stock and thought it may be neat to use in the R1 just for the gains due to lower viscosity. It is Ester based too so thinking maybe slicker shifting. Anyone know hos this type of oil reacts to the clutch? Other than me being one of the people that needs to be hit with a shovel... I think that people who use an Automotive oil in their bike need to be hit over the head with a ton of bricks.. Now that is out of the way... M-1 IS NOT an Ester Based oil and the 0W-30 should not be used as it has an extreme amount of friction modifiers. If you want to use a 30 wgt oil, at least use a M/C Specific oil such as AMSOIL MCT 10W-30. I can also tell you NOT to listen to a mechanic when it comes to oil as most of them have absolutely no idea about oils and no specific training in the matter. 90% can't tell you accurately what the SAE Viscosity numbers mean or the API Certification means. Most think that if you engine (Bike) calls for SG/SH that an SL or SM oil will work because it supercedes the SG/SH classification. They also have no idea what controls contaminant levels in oil such as acidity which is one of the main reasons not to store on oil that has been run. So, in your expert opinion, I need to be cracked over the head with that shovel as I run between 9000 and 10,000 miles on my bike before changing oil. I'd hate to see what you think about going 25K, 35K or even 43,000 miles on the change intervals in my work van that pulls a trailer often... Lord knows you could Never expect a vehicle like that to run 346,000 miles... Absurd thinking you could go that many miles on what.... 12 oil changes... Oh... let's not forget that it is not running on one of the "High Mileage" gimmick oils... It runs on AMSOIL 0W-30 and don't burn oil. After 35 years of doing this, it never ceases to amaze me how much misinformation continues to be spread. I use oil analysis to get to that 9000 miles on my bike. 2 other people I know that have similar bikes but with no mods can go well beyond the 10,000 mark. I am dumping considerably more fuel in my engine and I pull a loaded trailer and many times 2 up. a good estimate would be that I am close to 2000 lbs GCVW. Doc

First, I never said I was an expert on oil and have no idea if the mobile 1 the GTR uses is good in bikes which is why I asked. I AM however an expert on how oil works in actual engines in actual use and not testing it in labs. I have seen cars and trucks go 80K with hardly an oil change... I also have seen people go 50 years smoking and drinking and doing drugs and be pretty healthy. Would I suggest doing that? No. Why press your luck. Most modern engines run so clean oils will last longer then the customary 3750 change period but considering you are protecting a machine that cost anywhere from a couple grand to a couple hundred grand why skimp. I also am amused on the myths about oil that are spread. For instance the myth that certain oils are special and allow you to throw out responsible maintenance intervals. I have seen so many customers crying about the cost to replace their $10K engine after hearing how their magic oil did not protect it after doing 15K mile oil changes. Im sorry. I knew my comment would result is someone getting defensive about their product but honestly I rather see people get reliable honest info that will help them then a sales pitch about someone's product. I can only relate to oil as it effects cars but in my exp pushing your oil change period is dangerous. You can argue this or that but almost without fail every engine we get that has abnormal wear or premature failure also has had extended oil change periods and many times the customer says "I use ____ oil and you only have to change that every ____ miles. To which we say great see you in 30K for a new engine. Oil changes are cheap considering other maintenance and engine repairs so why skimp. Your product is probably great, I may even use it next time I change my oil. I will change it again when it is time though and not wait 10K miles. Couple thoughts, for most average JOE's sending oil samples out for testing to see if they can go 10K miles is a bit much. I did not insult you in my post by saying you did not know what you were talking about or saying "oil sellers are snake oil peddlers and have no idea what they are talking about" Congrats on your 35 years in the business. I have been fixing cars, bikes, race cars for 20 years and I mean actually working on them and seeing actual results from actual real world use not testing in a lab and looking at computer screens. Again I am sorry to everyone for the pissing contest. I should know by now not to state an opposing view because the possibility of not being right about everything offends people. I would be totally willing to use Amsoil in my bike if I got respectable information on its advantages over what I was using but if their Reps talk down to people that do not follow the "our oil is the bestest and all others are made by lying cheating crooks and suck" line of though I will just stick to one of the other several oils that have been proven over years of testing to be excellent. Sorry Doc that was prolly a bit much, been drinking a little and over reacted a little. Buy good oil, change it when you should, you will be fine.

Question. This is WAY WAY off topic but considering the properties of these oils such as their ability to bond to a surface how would they do in a firearm? Gun parts slide against each other but usually have very little load between them so an oil that sticks to the part and resists being scraped off would be great. I was under the impression Ester oil had a high ability to bond to a surface and since these oils are great at not breaking down under heat, motion and suspend particulate well they would work great in a gun it seems. Any thoughts?

Question. This is WAY WAY off topic but considering the properties of these oils such as their ability to bond to a surface how would they do in a firearm? Gun parts slide against each other but usually have very little load between them so an oil that sticks to the part and resists being scraped off would be great. I was under the impression Ester oil had a high ability to bond to a surface and since these oils are great at not breaking down under heat, motion and suspend particulate well they would work great in a gun it seems. Any thoughts? Good topic. An IPSC guy I know says they use Mobil 1 as slide lube.

OK an oil thread...... I live a little off the beaten path and it can be hard to get some things that you floks in the real world and the United States can easily aquire. I have been wanting to try some full synthetic oil but cant get any so I found that Napa Auto Parts was a Royal Purple dealer and if I wanted to get some full synthetic 10-40 I could special order it but I would need to buy a case. Well I paid for a case and it came out to be like $15.00 a quart. I thought I might save some money this way rather than buying some oil from my motorcycle stealer but it seems that may not be the case. How much do You all pay for a quart of Royal Purple or similar in the real world? Also Im tired of paying $15.00 for an oil filter and was thinking of buying a case of Emgo filters for about half that shipped to my house. Any thoughts?

First, I never said I was an expert on oil and have no idea if the mobile 1 the GTR uses is good in bikes which is why I asked. I AM however an expert on how oil works in actual engines in actual use and not testing it in labs. I have seen cars and trucks go 80K with hardly an oil change... I also have seen people go 50 years smoking and drinking and doing drugs and be pretty healthy. Would I suggest doing that? No. Why press your luck. Most modern engines run so clean oils will last longer then the customary 3750 change period but considering you are protecting a machine that cost anywhere from a couple grand to a couple hundred grand why skimp. Back in the 70's, when I owned my shop and was a Certified Tech, I also learned that the longevity and reliability of a piece of equipment was directly related to a good oil and filter and that some oils were better than others and then found that Synthetics, especially AMSOIL were capable of extended drain intervals, increased fuel mileage and better wear protection. I also am amused on the myths about oil that are spread. For instance the myth that certain oils are special and allow you to throw out responsible maintenance intervals. I have seen so many customers crying about the cost to replace their $10K engine after hearing how their magic oil did not protect it after doing 15K mile oil changes. This sounds more like "All Synthetics are Alike" which is the farthest from the truth. It is a proven fact that AMSOIL Outperforms the competition time and again and is capable of extended drain intervals in most applications. One particular application, we did analysis on an engine where the OEM recommended 5000 mile change. We did analysis on THEIR OIL at 3375 and it had sheared 1 full grade. We then tested the AMSOIL, in the same vehicle, and at 9871 miles, the analysis came back "Continue to next regular service interval, NO corrective action required". Science trumps speculation. Im sorry. I knew my comment would result is someone getting defensive about their product but honestly I rather see people get reliable honest info that will help them then a sales pitch about someone's product. I can only relate to oil as it effects cars but in my exp pushing your oil change period is dangerous. You can argue this or that but almost without fail every engine we get that has abnormal wear or premature failure also has had extended oil change periods and many times the customer says "I use ____ oil and you only have to change that every ____ miles. To which we say great see you in 30K for a new engine. Oil changes are cheap considering other maintenance and engine repairs so why skimp. Your product is probably great, I may even use it next time I change my oil. I will change it again when it is time though and not wait 10K miles. Again, ALL Synthetics are not alike. I get people all the time that say "If AMSOIL can extend change intervals, so can my oil" That is what causes the problems. Also, what causes problems, is people don't read. AMSOIL IS NOT capable of extended drains in all applications. I can show you vehicle after vehicle with astronomical mileage, one in particular has almost 1 million miles on extended drain intervals. Couple thoughts, for most average JOE's sending oil samples out for testing to see if they can go 10K miles is a bit much. Why is that ? You use the oil analysis to build a baseline change interval. you have stated that an engine can cost a couple thousand to a hundred thousand. So under $23.00 for analysis compared to $8K for my motorcycle engine, sounds like cheap insurance to me and, when Oil Analysis is used properly, it is a tool to avoid catastrophic failures. I am just an "Average Joe" I did not insult you in my post by saying you did not know what you were talking about or saying "oil sellers are snake oil peddlers and have no idea what they are talking about" You did say something to the effect of not trusting someone, who happens to have many more years of experience in a field where you have none. Also stating about the "shovel over their head" which does sound like an insult to me as well. Congrats on your 35 years in the business. I have been fixing cars, bikes, race cars for 20 years and I mean actually working on them and seeing actual results from actual real world use not testing in a lab and looking at computer screens. Real world Technician here as well, many more than you, not sitting in a lab or behind a computer screen except to advance our knowledge. Again I am sorry to everyone for the pissing contest. I should know by now not to state an opposing view because the possibility of not being right about everything offends people. I don't think it was so much an opposing view but appeared to be more of a "Slam" on people with their views. You have to expect recourse with the unfounded statements you made, where people can prove you wrong. I would be totally willing to use Amsoil in my bike if I got respectable information on its advantages over what I was using but if their Reps talk down to people that do not follow the "our oil is the bestest and all others are made by lying cheating crooks and suck" line of though I will just stick to one of the other several oils that have been proven over years of testing to be excellent. I suppose the test report, g-2156, in our Sig is not respectable when much of the information came from several of the Top Testing Facilities in the US and at least one is a Non-Profit company. AMSOIL has been known for many years as "The Kings of Comparison" in the industry and is the only company that "Names, Names" in their tests and has not been sued for it. Yes, their are some fine oils on the market, and their are some poor oils as well. See the G-2156 link and pick one of the Top 3 oils in the final results and you will have a good oil that will give you good service. Sorry Doc that was prolly a bit much, been drinking a little and over reacted a little. Buy good oil, change it when you should, you will be fine. Have a Great Day, Enjoy a ride, and contact us if we can help you with your Forum Discount AMSOIL Purchase. Bob S.

Question. This is WAY WAY off topic but considering the properties of these oils such as their ability to bond to a surface how would they do in a firearm? Gun parts slide against each other but usually have very little load between them so an oil that sticks to the part and resists being scraped off would be great. I was under the impression Ester oil had a high ability to bond to a surface and since these oils are great at not breaking down under heat, motion and suspend particulate well they would work great in a gun it seems. Any thoughts? I had this question posed a couple years ago. Not where there is any chance of the burned powder residue will come in contact with the oils as it will "cake" was what I was able to find out. Hope that helps. Bob S.

OK an oil thread...... I live a little off the beaten path and it can be hard to get some things that you floks in the real world and the United States can easily aquire. I have been wanting to try some full synthetic oil but cant get any so I found that Napa Auto Parts was a Royal Purple dealer and if I wanted to get some full synthetic 10-40 I could special order it but I would need to buy a case. Well I paid for a case and it came out to be like $15.00 a quart. I thought I might save some money this way rather than buying some oil from my motorcycle stealer but it seems that may not be the case. How much do You all pay for a quart of Royal Purple or similar in the real world? Also Im tired of paying $15.00 for an oil filter and was thinking of buying a case of Emgo filters for about half that shipped to my house. Any thoughts? We ship to Hawaii and do not charge any extra for the product. Actually, if you live in/near Honolulu, we have a Pick up Point there where it actually costs less for freight than stateside as they receive a container once a month. Orders have to in to us no later than the 25th and and your order usually arrives there around the 17th. It does come out to far less than $15.00 per qt. Bob S.

Amsoil 10w40 is my first choice, but because it's not always easily obtainable, I mostly use Mobil1 10w40 with great results. I change it every year ( I never put more than 3,000 miles a year on it) with a yamaha oil filter. I don't like how the manual tells you to change the oil filter every OTHER oil change, so I put a new one on every oil change. The temp ranges often here in Oklahoma from 0 to 105. And by often, I mean two days ago it was 28 and tomorrow it will be 81.

Amsoil 10w40 is my first choice, but because it's not always easily obtainable, I mostly use Mobil1 10w40 with great results. I change it every year ( I never put more than 3,000 miles a year on it) with a yamaha oil filter. I don't like how the manual tells you to change the oil filter every OTHER oil change, so I put a new one on every oil change. The temp ranges often here in Oklahoma from 0 to 105. And by often, I mean two days ago it was 28 and tomorrow it will be 81. AMSOIL is as close as your telephone and the Big Brown Truck delivers it to your door.. Doc

Bob.... wanna give me some pricing on oil for orders in gallons...looking at about 8 oil changes on the r6 for the races this year.... I am trying to get quotes from 3 companies that I trust... I personally have not ran amsoil in the racebike yet but have not been let down with repsols Racing 4t synthetic...but its expensive as shit...50 bucks a gallon However I have spoken with two local racers that had ran Amsoil in their bikes and were having problems with their launches at race start with the clutch feeling slippy and grippy on and off.... even down shifting they were getting problems... also what are the affects on a slipper clutch, not running one currently but might have one here in the next month.... what can you tell me about this. I have also read up on WERA and seen some of the same speculation... currently I have no problems with what I'm running but a few hundred bucks is worth it in oil at the end of the season...it can pay for repairs... or 15 dollar a gallon U4 or M204 Thanks Nik

Bob.... wanna give me some pricing on oil for orders in gallons...looking at about 8 oil changes on the r6 for the races this year.... I am trying to get quotes from 3 companies that I trust... I personally have not ran amsoil in the racebike yet but have not been let down with repsols Racing 4t synthetic...but its expensive as shit...50 bucks a gallon However I have spoken with two local racers that had ran Amsoil in their bikes and were having problems with their launches at race start with the clutch feeling slippy and grippy on and off.... even down shifting they were getting problems... also what are the affects on a slipper clutch, not running one currently but might have one here in the next month.... what can you tell me about this. I have also read up on WERA and seen some of the same speculation... currently I have no problems with what I'm running but a few hundred bucks is worth it in oil at the end of the season...it can pay for repairs... or 15 dollar a gallon U4 or M204 Thanks Nik Nik, And the others out there... Where we have seen clutch problems has been where other oils, usually Automotive Synthetics have been used previously. Very common in Suzuki's and have also seen this in some Vic's, Triumphs, Honda's and GoldWings. I just went through this a little while ago with 1 guy on a Triumph and 1 on a Suzy.. Both were bad enough where they had to pull and clean the clutches with Crocus Cloth as the previous oil (Both were M-1) had varnished the plates. Cleaned afterwards with Thinner and then soaked in AMSOIL MCF for 24 hrs. No problems Our Filters are also WERA accepted. This is being announced later today.. I have been sitting on this until it was Official... AMSOIL, is now the Official oil of the AMA Pro Road Racing Series and another that I can't remember.. Daytona something. Suberbike Series maybe ? My notes are upstairs and it's 6:30 AM.. Still have some Brain Fog. AMSOIL is also announcing the Sponsorship of Larry Pegram and his Ducati's Doc

SORRY GUYS I SHOULD HAVE INSERTED THIS POLL EARLIER, I didn't know how.. :( my bad! Please VOTE!

This should start some controversy . I use 2qts of Mobil 1 4T 10-w40, and then (gasp !) 1 qt of shell rotella t 10-w40, Oh and a Napa oil filter, which is 6 dollars cheaper than the one from the stealership.

OOps my bad. As an addendum to my last post . Shell rotella t 15-w40, not 10-w40. That's what I get for multitasking, sorry.

First, I never said I was an expert on oil and have no idea if the mobile 1 the GTR uses is good in bikes which is why I asked. I AM however an expert on how oil works in actual engines in actual use and not testing it in labs. I have seen cars and trucks go 80K with hardly an oil change... I also have seen people go 50 years smoking and drinking and doing drugs and be pretty healthy. Would I suggest doing that? No. Why press your luck. Most modern engines run so clean oils will last longer then the customary 3750 change period but considering you are protecting a machine that cost anywhere from a couple grand to a couple hundred grand why skimp. I also am amused on the myths about oil that are spread. For instance the myth that certain oils are special and allow you to throw out responsible maintenance intervals. I have seen so many customers crying about the cost to replace their $10K engine after hearing how their magic oil did not protect it after doing 15K mile oil changes. Im sorry. I knew my comment would result is someone getting defensive about their product but honestly I rather see people get reliable honest info that will help them then a sales pitch about someone's product. I can only relate to oil as it effects cars but in my exp pushing your oil change period is dangerous. You can argue this or that but almost without fail every engine we get that has abnormal wear or premature failure also has had extended oil change periods and many times the customer says "I use ____ oil and you only have to change that every ____ miles. To which we say great see you in 30K for a new engine. Oil changes are cheap considering other maintenance and engine repairs so why skimp. Your product is probably great, I may even use it next time I change my oil. I will change it again when it is time though and not wait 10K miles. Couple thoughts, for most average JOE's sending oil samples out for testing to see if they can go 10K miles is a bit much. I did not insult you in my post by saying you did not know what you were talking about or saying "oil sellers are snake oil peddlers and have no idea what they are talking about" Congrats on your 35 years in the business. I have been fixing cars, bikes, race cars for 20 years and I mean actually working on them and seeing actual results from actual real world use not testing in a lab and looking at computer screens. Again I am sorry to everyone for the pissing contest. I should know by now not to state an opposing view because the possibility of not being right about everything offends people. I would be totally willing to use Amsoil in my bike if I got respectable information on its advantages over what I was using but if their Reps talk down to people that do not follow the "our oil is the bestest and all others are made by lying cheating crooks and suck" line of though I will just stick to one of the other several oils that have been proven over years of testing to be excellent. Sorry Doc that was prolly a bit much, been drinking a little and over reacted a little. Buy good oil, change it when you should, you will be fine. Well said...

Question. This is WAY WAY off topic but considering the properties of these oils such as their ability to bond to a surface how would they do in a firearm? Gun parts slide against each other but usually have very little load between them so an oil that sticks to the part and resists being scraped off would be great. I was under the impression Ester oil had a high ability to bond to a surface and since these oils are great at not breaking down under heat, motion and suspend particulate well they would work great in a gun it seems. Any thoughts? Sure just change your oil every 3000 rounds.

Mobil 1 no question about it. i pay $10 and change per quart. Because i'm in love with her!

AmsOil from Doc is the best. Been with amsoil since 1000 miles and love the stuff. Still stock clutch.

AmsOil from Doc is the best. Been with amsoil since 1000 miles and love the stuff. Still stock clutch. Thanks JD... Doc

I know I am a little slow on the draw, but I use amsoil in all my bikes. 10w40 in the 4 cylinders, and 20w50 on the Big Dog.

i dont know whats best but used mobil 1 in my big block chev, after many k's it was taken apart and still had hone marks on the bores, so use mobil1 4t 15w50 in my bike.

As long as....Mileage limits, Unmodified engine in mechanically sound condition, which means no exhaust, tuners and especially a junk K&N Filter or similar. A sample of the oil must be sent to AMSOIL Inc. If the oil comes back in serviceable condition and no additives... It has to be the oils fault and the Dealer has no authority to "Walk Away" from anything.. If the oil comes back within Spec, common sense says the problem is someplace else which could include operator error. yes they can walk away from it, if you tell them you didn't change the oil in a year,, that alone voids the warranty,, I didn't read anywhere in the manual that "not unless you have amsoil in the motor you can go for up to 1 yr intervals" you guys have some contract with yamaha? I thought amsoil has some warranty if your motor blows

yes they can walk away from it, if you tell them you didn't change the oil in a year,, that alone voids the warranty,, I didn't read anywhere in the manual that "not unless you have amsoil in the motor you can go for up to 1 yr intervals" you guys have some contract with yamaha? I thought amsoil has some warranty if your motor blows The OEM CANNOT Void a warranty due to maintenance practices, it is against the law. They may try to tell you that, but try to get it in writing. Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act forbids them from doing so. To protect yourself though, is why I always suggest that you get an Oil Sample, use a Certified Lab such as Oil Analyzers Inc. and get the filter off and put into a plastic bag immediately.. The "Burden of Proof" is on the OEM, not you. What I have said is to give you the advantage. AMSOIL does have a warranty.. In Unmodified, Mechanically sound engines. No different than an OEM... Modify something, no Warranty, Track something, no Warranty, wear it out, no warranty.... Have a Good Relationship with your Dealer, You can get things covered just like I did last month.. Went to the Service Mgr... "Dave, This is what's wrong, it was my fault. If you can cover it under warranty, great, if you can't, I'll have to pay for it" He took a second to think about it, Looked at me and said, "I know we don't have it in stock, go to the parts counter and have them order it, I'll get it taken care of".. He did.. Attitude can play a huge role ... Doc

Track something, no Warranty Hopefully, that is just Amsoil's warranty, because bike mfr's will honor a warranty as long as it wasn't "competition", as in racing. trackdays are good to go. Don't know why your warranty is any different, if your oil is the top oil as the reports and ad's suggest, you should not have a problem sticking behind it when used in a bike that goes to a track day.

Hopefully, that is just Amsoil's warranty, because bike mfr's will honor a warranty as long as it wasn't "competition", as in racing. trackdays are good to go. Don't know why your warranty is any different, if your oil is the top oil as the reports and ad's suggest, you should not have a problem sticking behind it when used in a bike that goes to a track day. amsoil always boast about high performance and used in the most high end engines, why is track different? how about if one was to use all your products, the will it be covered

Hey oil doc question for ya: i have a 04 r1 and im thinking bout using amsoil 10w40 but i've heard there are diff kinds mtc,mtf or something like that ... whats the right kind for my application thanx in adv.

need more oil threads http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/badteeth.gif :nopity:

Hey oil doc question for ya: i have a 04 r1 and im thinking bout using amsoil 10w40 but i've heard there are diff kinds mtc,mtf or something like that ... whats the right kind for my application thanx in adv. You need the MCF 10w40. Pm me or oil doc for more info.

Hopefully, that is just Amsoil's warranty, because bike mfr's will honor a warranty as long as it wasn't "competition", as in racing. trackdays are good to go. Don't know why your warranty is any different, if your oil is the top oil as the reports and ad's suggest, you should not have a problem sticking behind it when used in a bike that goes to a track day. Those kind of warranties are a sales / marketing tool used to make potental customers believe a product is the best. How could one ever prove that an oil that claims to be the very best out there caused eng failure? You would have to spend so much time and money to prove it that it would not be worth the trouble. And besides its a numbers game, rule out all eng that are use in competition or modified, and you just reduced the number of posible claims by 2/3. Then rule out failures due to mechanical reasons and operator error then you reduce the numbers even more. Now the question is how many engs have been destroyed due to oil failing? In over 30 years I have never seen an eng fail, that I could specificaly say it was likely the oil caused it. Its always design flaw, mechanical failure or operator error. By the time the one eng came up that might have had a problem due to oil, could you really prove to the satifaction of the warranter that you have a valid claim? No, they don't want to pay. Heard many stories of aftermarket warranty companies finding every reason possible not to pay. Salesmen are selling a product, companies making unbelievable warranties playing the numbers. It's a marketing / sales tool.

Oil Doc with Amsoil is the way to go. I just put it in my bike and it runs like a champ. I can actually feel a difference. It feels smoother and like its happy. Thanks Oil Doc again for the cheap, fast, great performance oil.

Hey oil doc question for ya: i have a 04 r1 and im thinking bout using amsoil 10w40 but i've heard there are diff kinds mtc,mtf or something like that ... whats the right kind for my application thanx in adv. MCF is the product code for 10W-40 M/C Specific.. PM headed your way Doc .

I've used amsoil for years in my cycles, never had any issues. I chose this oil due to word of mouth from some motorcross riders I know.

I've used amsoil for years in my cycles, never had any issues. I chose this oil due to word of mouth from some motorcross riders I know. If you are not buying at Dealer Cost, give rexmithell or myself a PM. Where at in WI ? Bob .

Rotella? GPS? Both kickass oils too if changed regularly.

After alot of recommendations, I'm going with Amsoil. I'll have it on Monday and let you know how it works! Chris

YamaLube Full Syn w/ OEM filters

Repsol 4t syn. Changed after every race/track day weekend in the R6. Changed every 1500mi in the R1. OEM filters. F3, when I feel like it. Whatever I drain outta the lawnmower. It has a filter? It's a honda, It'll run forever no matter what.... Just wish honda's were cooler! Diesel changed every 5k miles,Rotella, OEM filter. Cage- every 3k Mobil 1, OEM filter.

I just switched from Mobil 1 4T to Motul 4T 300V based on this study. Less shear and no foaming plus added hp! http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf

all this and that about oil synth vs dino and whats best??? if its a "good quality oil...its good quality no matter what the brand... if its crap its crap....who gonna by oil labled crap? we all like the oil we choose because there all in the same league. who could honestly say....omg what a differance when i switched from mobil1 1 4t to amsol......comeone... thats like saying...wow 720p resolution so soo much differnt that 1080i... i bet if i took your bike and switched the oil overnite with any quality oil... no brand speciffic oil guru would ever know the diff............ how many of us are actually engineers that break our engines open and measure any wear from new to present? not many im shure.... how many tests are bias and say this is better than the rest because it has 3 points higher in one catagory test..when in actuality the fractions of differance are insignificant.as long as the add pack has the needed component in suficient amounts. does my amp sound louder because it goes to 11 and yours only goes to 10? :P my 03 gixxer 750 now has 47k of hard miles...using Rotella T faux synthetic. it costs less than 20$ at wallmart,.,,and no its not a real synth and its not m/c spec hell its not even the oem weight but, i guess its just a "good quality oil" other than routine replacment and maintinance...it still runs like new and doesnt smoke. +++ i use mobile 1 4t in my R1 because i luv her and shes a hot bioutch :)++++

People will argue about anything won't they.... :-)

Some people like the Best, Some just like good enough... Bob

Some people like the Best, Some just like good enough... Bob good enough.. is good with me... as long as its good enough to get the job done....... and the bucks in my pocket threwout the years without any repairs due to oil failure because that good enough oil was good enough to keep the engine lubbed well..........hell thats good with me. :) you can keep that amp that goes to 11....10 is good enough for me

Rotella T faux synthetic. I like that...I think I'm gonna use that description from now on... Matter of fact, lots of oils that say synthetic are "faux synthetics."

all this and that about oil synth vs dino and whats best??? if its a "good quality oil...its good quality no matter what the brand... if its crap its crap....who gonna by oil labled crap? we all like the oil we choose because there all in the same league. who could honestly say....omg what a differance when i switched from mobil1 1 4t to amsol......comeone... thats like saying...wow 720p resolution so soo much differnt that 1080i... i bet if i took your bike and switched the oil overnite with any quality oil... no brand speciffic oil guru would ever know the diff............ how many of us are actually engineers that break our engines open and measure any wear from new to present? not many im shure.... how many tests are bias and say this is better than the rest because it has 3 points higher in one catagory test..when in actuality the fractions of differance are insignificant.as long as the add pack has the needed component in suficient amounts. does my amp sound louder because it goes to 11 and yours only goes to 10? :P my 03 gixxer 750 now has 47k of hard miles...using Rotella T faux synthetic. it costs less than 20$ at wallmart,.,,and no its not a real synth and its not m/c spec hell its not even the oem weight but, i guess its just a "good quality oil" other than routine replacment and maintinance...it still runs like new and doesnt smoke. +++ i use mobile 1 4t in my R1 because i luv her and shes a hot bioutch :)++++ You can tell a difference when watching a lower resolution tv compared to a higher one, if you can't get a better tv. NO you probly won't notice a difference when you switch from mobile 1 4t to Amsoil, I switched and the only thing I noticed was the valves quieted down and my bike ran slightly cooler. All in all Mobile 1 4t is a great oil, I feel that Amsoil is still better. Tests don't prove that to me, all the people that run it do and all the people that continue to run it do. If the Rotella worked sooooo well, you would be using it on your R1, not the mobile 1 4t, you wouldn't worry about what it will do to your R1. Why waste the money on the mobile one if the rotella works just as well :dunno

Rex first off....let me say this about tv's..... I'm a Verizion Fios head end tech..and know a bit about resolutions and HD compression. You and so many others say they can see the differance between 720p and 1080i... thats funny because with progressive 720 the pic is actually more detailed due to higher pixel fill rates.Also 720p is better for fast motion as 1080i will tend to breakup durring fast pixel transition.This was only addressed with the advent of 1080p. So you see my friend if I did the resolutiuon shell game in front of you... I would bet my Very expensive Samsung 52" 1080P 120hz lcd... that you would not be able to accuratly distinguish over and over..... the differance between any HD resoultion over another as resolution is not the key component to a fantastic picture.... its the compression of the capture. The average person will say 1080i is better... but,of course it must be..1080 is a higher number than 720..by a whopping 360!! As for the mobile 1 4T over the rotella T FAUX synth.............. I use it cause its 3 T's more than the 1 T Rotella :P Actually I admit I did not always know the Rotella t was not a true synth.... Plus M1 is used in multi million $$$ stockcar and F1 engines..so id say its ok for my R1.

These threads, more times than not, tend to go by way of the gutter or pissing match all to often...why is that?

Rex first off....let me say this about tv's..... I'm a Verizion Fios head end tech..and know a bit about resolutions and HD compression. You and so many others say they can see the differance between 720p and 1080i... thats funny because with progressive 720 the pic is actually more detailed due to higher pixel fill rates.Also 720p is better for fast motion as 1080i will tend to breakup durring fast pixel transition.This was only addressed with the advent of 1080p. So you see my friend if I did the resolutiuon shell game in front of you... I would bet my Very expensive Samsung 52" 1080P 120hz lcd... that you would not be able to accuratly distinguish over and over..... the differance between any HD resoultion over another as resolution is not the key component to a fantastic picture.... its the compression of the capture. The average person will say 1080i is better... but,of course it must be..1080 is a higher number than 720..by a whopping 360!! As for the mobile 1 4T over the rotella T FAUX synth.............. I use it cause its 3 T's more than the 1 T Rotella :P Actually I admit I did not always know the Rotella t was not a true synth.... Plus M1 is used in multi million $$$ stockcar and F1 engines..so id say its ok for my R1. I bought a 1080i a few years back un-informed about the difference with 1080P, however the 1080p I feel does make a nice difference...

good enough.. is good with me... as long as its good enough to get the job done....... and the bucks in my pocket threwout the years without any repairs due to oil failure because that good enough oil was good enough to keep the engine lubbed well..........hell thats good with me. :) you can keep that amp that goes to 11....10 is good enough for me Never mind the sales hype and play on words, if you said one oil works great, the salesmen would say theirs is Superior. If you said your oil was superior the salesman would come back and claim theirs is ultra superior. Marketing and sales people learn to say the samethings over and over again, some people believe things that are repeated over and over. Thats the way multi level marketing works, teach salemen to repeat a few key words and statements and recruit others to do the same.

good enough.. is good with me... as long as its good enough to get the job done....... and the bucks in my pocket threwout the years without any repairs due to oil failure because that good enough oil was good enough to keep the engine lubbed well..........hell thats good with me. :) Good enough you is good enough for us... But there are no savings in a cost per mile comparison.. Nobody has said you will have an oil related failure, except for people that mis-quote us. Never mind the sales hype and play on words, if you said one oil works great, the salesmen would say theirs is Superior. If you said your oil was superior the salesman would come back and claim theirs is ultra superior. Marketing and sales people learn to say the samethings over and over again, some people believe things that are repeated over and over. Thats the way multi level marketing works, teach salemen to repeat a few key words and statements and recruit others to do the same. The only Hype here is you.. We prove our facts with ASTM Tests and real life testimonies.. Come up with some facts for a change... PLEASE... If you knew half as much as you thought you did and didn't try to show just what you don't know, we would all be OK here. I have been in this business for over 25 years now along with owning several successful shops before and during that time which I built and sold, over the last 38 years. I was a Certified Technician for quite a few years and learned early on the Superior lubricants and filtration make a huge difference. If anyone thinks that Lubrication and filtration don't matter, they really don't know what they are talking about. AMSOIL Names their competition right in our advertising. We have nothing to hide. If the ASTM Tests we show were false in any way, we would be sued by not only our competitors but the FTC would have shut our advertising down. Much the same they did with all the "Superior Additives" for oil that were on TV. .

Heard all that before, cut and paste works very well when the samething needs to be repeated over and over..

Some people like the Best, Some just like good enough... Bob I like superior not just the best, some are willing to just settle for best, not me superior all the way...

my 06 go the valvoline 10w40 for motorcycles- sold it with 23,000 miles ZERO problems. Ran a fram motorcycle filter on it too. No problems. Same for my 06 CBr600rr( although I did put amsoil in it once) My 09 will get valvoline followed up by amsoil as long as it doesn't break the bank.

I use yamalube 10-40 and an oem filter my cost is $28 for everything.i change it every 2500 miles.06 R1 14k on it and i ride it very hard, from mile long stand ups pretty much evrytime i ride it,dragracing,and lots of twisties.

Yeah, I use my air cooled bike pretty hard running down the road at over 2000 lbs much of the time and I have a hard time getting the oil past 10,000. Maybe if I took the lowers off in the summer.... Nahhhh.. I'm happy changing at 10K Bob

More votes for Mobil 1. I used them on cars, and on my first bike (03 GSXR 600). Once I switched it up to Amsoil on my first truck with great results, that's all I use (truck and bike). Bike feels like it runs smoother with Amsoil. I used to use Amsoil 10w40 with Yamaha filter, now I use Amsoil 10w40 with Amsoil filter. Probably could go 5k, but change every 3k miles.

honda 10w-40 yama stock oil filter. going to k&n filter next

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/drool.gif http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/junk1/IMG_0908.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/drool.gif http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/junk1/IMG_0908.jpg :rock:thumbup

More votes for Mobil 1. I used them on cars, and on my first bike (03 GSXR 600). Once I switched it up to Amsoil on my first truck with great results, that's all I use (truck and bike). Bike feels like it runs smoother with Amsoil. I used to use Amsoil 10w40 with Yamaha filter, now I use Amsoil 10w40 with Amsoil filter. Probably could go 5k, but change every 3k miles. With using the AMSOIL Filter, you probably could go at least 5, as long as you are not using a K&N or Similar air filter. Bob

honda 10w-40 yama stock oil filter. going to k&n filter next You may want to rethink the filter choice... AMSOIL EAOM-103 is the best you can buy, bar none... I like WIX 51358 next and then Pure One The only thing good about the K&N is the nut on the end. For the AMSOIL and WIX, I have an end cap wrench for a whole $1.90 that fits the AMSOIL and WIX filter Bob

Just as a side note on the amsoil and wix filters... I am a assistant manger at a local oreilly auto parts store here in Lima, Ohio. we just begun carrying the amsoil products in our stores in our region and wix filters are stocked in our stores as well. So if anyone of you guys want amsoil products and dont want to order them contact your local oreilly auto parts and if they dont have the amsoil yet THEY CAN ORDER IT dont fall for them sayin they cant get it Alll Our DC warehouses stock it! just a side note :) Russ

On that note.... I think you better check again. Your DC's cannot carry AMSOIL as it is against company policy. We have a 12 store/24 store policy that does not allow it. I sell AMSOIL to some O'Reilly stores. Bob

Oh.... and O'Reilly's can't sell it for what I do.... Let's do some PM's on Prices... Bob

With using the AMSOIL Filter, you probably could go at least 5, as long as you are not using a K&N or Similar air filter. Bob Yeah, I'm using K&N filter and velocity stacks. I also Amsoil in my truck with the 20k mi oil filter, but change it before 10k.

Yeah, I'm using K&N filter and velocity stacks. I also Amsoil in my truck with the 20k mi oil filter, but change it before 10k. Keep an eye on the oil and look for the shift to go away, sure sign of needing a change.. Bob

Been using Mobil 1 products for years...the true inventors of the fully synthetic motor oils...but all the oils listed in the beginning of this thread are great...just my experience tells me to go with what I know.

Been using Mobil 1 products for years...the true inventors of the fully synthetic motor oils...but all the oils listed in the beginning of this thread are great...just my experience tells me to go with what I know. First full synthetic oil out on the market was AMSOIL. :fact

Whoops....yep ur right...

Been using Mobil 1 products for years...the true inventors of the fully synthetic motor oils...but all the oils listed in the beginning of this thread are great...just my experience tells me to go with what I know. Whoops....yep ur right... I know you found out about the AMSOIL, but a little Synthetic History here. Synthetic oils have been around since the late 20's when invented by Standard Oil and the Germans used Synthetics in WW II. All Jet Engines have used nothing but Synthetics since 1947 as they will fail with a petroleum oil. AMSOIL is the First API Rated Synthetic oil in 1972 and Mobil 1 followed in late 1974. Much of the bad hype about Synthetics came from those early days. Most cars then used a 10W-40. Mobil 1 was "A 5W-20 oil with the characteristics of a 10W-40". That is what it said right on the top of the can. That caused a lot of problems especially when they claimed a 25,000 mile change interval like AMSOIL. Today, although not 100% Synthetic, Mobil 1 is a respectable oil. Bob

Yep I remember that, and I believe they (Mobil) purchased a few piston aircraft engines as well....thanks for the info.

Yep I remember that, and I believe they (Mobil) purchased a few piston aircraft engines as well....thanks for the info. Because of you Nick, I have to ask. Is that you in the P-51 ? If so, is it a real P-51 or one of the Scaled down one's that you can buy ? Bob .

I know you found out about the AMSOIL, but a little Synthetic History here. Synthetic oils have been around since the late 20's when invented by Standard Oil and the Germans used Synthetics in WW II. All Jet Engines have used nothing but Synthetics since 1947 as they will fail with a petroleum oil. AMSOIL is the First API Rated Synthetic oil in 1972 and Mobil 1 followed in late 1974. Much of the bad hype about Synthetics came from those early days. Most cars then used a 10W-40. Mobil 1 was "A 5W-20 oil with the characteristics of a 10W-40". That is what it said right on the top of the can. That caused a lot of problems especially when they claimed a 25,000 mile change interval like AMSOIL. Today, although not 100% Synthetic, Mobil 1 is a respectable oil. Bob Bob, is even the Mobil 1 EP (Extended Performance - Gold Cap) not 100% Synthetic?

This thread reads like an infomercial.

Bob, is even the Mobil 1 EP (Extended Performance - Gold Cap) not 100% Synthetic? I spoke with a tech at an analysis lab and he said that even the M-1 EP is coming out as a Hydro-Cracked... At the moment, there is nothing official. Even if it is still PAO, it is only 30%. I talked to this tech when we were doing some analysis on a few Mitsubishi EVO X's which have a huge fuel dilution problem. On several cars, the M-1 had sheared a full grade at less than 3000 miles and there were signs of elevated wear metals. The owners were instructed to change oil and filter immediately. .

This thread reads like an infomercial. Well, maybe you shouldn't read it then. The first word in the Thread is "AMSOIL" LOL But if you you would like to bring some good talk and/or information to it, Welcome ! .

Ive used AMSOIL 10w40 for two oil changes now and like it alot.

Ive used AMSOIL 10w40 for two oil changes now and like it alot. Glad to hear. Let us know if you need anything.. .

Where you live the temp. during summer and winter. What weight of oil you use. What type regular or synthetic. What BRAND oil and filter Live in Lexington Ky Temperature varies greatly in all seasons 10w40 Synthetic Blend Motul 5100 oil, Purolator Pure One filter

I have always been a fan of Red Line Motorcycle oils. Any opinions from the experts?

MOTOREX Formula 4T Semi-Synthetic 10W40 and K&N filters. Live in LA where it's 90/100 during the summer and 40/60 during the winter. Been thinking about trying Royal Purple or Amsoil. Old habits die hard, I've been using Motorex for years with no issues.

MOTOREX Formula 4T Semi-Synthetic 10W40 and K&N filters. Live in LA where it's 90/100 during the summer and 40/60 during the winter. Been thinking about trying Royal Purple or Amsoil. Old habits die hard, I've been using Motorex for years with no issues. If you are going to try something.. Just about anything but RP Read the g-2156 link in our Sig and pick one of the Top 3 Finishers.. Bob

Never try amsoil, coz we dont have it here..i use rockoil racing synthetic..

If you are going to try something.. Just about anything but RP Read the g-2156 link in our Sig and pick one of the Top 3 Finishers.. Bob Hey Bob, do you have the latest white paper test?

I do. I just haven't downloaded it yet but will try tonight now that it has been brought to my attention.. LOL Bob

Good deal, I've been curious to check it out!

I feel left out, I been using Yamalube oil. :( http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/yamalube.aspx Check it out the video, if you have any free time.

Amsoil 0w-40 4stroke year round k&n oil filter live in Canada riding temps can range from -5C to 40C by the way bob what are the key differences between the high performance amsoil 4stroke 0w40 and the amsoil mcf 10w40 which is superior in your opinion? I read somewhere they might not be making the 0w40 anymore? Is that true? I also read somewhere that amsoil purchases alot of synthetic pao stock from mobil is that true or just a rumour? Regardless I'd just like to say I noticed an immediate change switching to amsoil from motul 300v 15w50 it is like night and day on the shifting.

Amsoil 0w-40 4stroke year round k&n oil filter live in Canada riding temps can range from -5C to 40C by the way bob what are the key differences between the high performance amsoil 4stroke 0w40 and the amsoil mcf 10w40 which is superior in your opinion? I read somewhere they might not be making the 0w40 anymore? Is that true? I also read somewhere that amsoil purchases alot of synthetic pao stock from mobil is that true or just a rumour? Regardless I'd just like to say I noticed an immediate change switching to amsoil from motul 300v 15w50 it is like night and day on the shifting. Although the MCF has a much more robust additive package, you can run the 0W-40 as long as you do not attempt an extended drain interval without analysis. Personally, I'd get away from the K&N Filter as well. Get the EAOM-103 AMSOIL Filter when you buy your oil. You cannot buy a better filter, or buy the WIX 51358. Not making the 0W-40 anymore ? Sounds like some rumor that someone would pick up on Bitog which is about as dependable as looking at oil analysis on there. AMSOIL does purchase PAO stock from Several Vendors and Mobil Chemical is One of them. NOT Mobil oil.. Mobil Chemical.. Two totally different companies under one umbrella. Mobil 1 has to purchase their PAO Stock from Mobil Chemical as well. As far as noticing a difference from the Motul to the AMSOIL. 300V is a very good oil but the difference may be from changing viscosity. You went to a much lighter oil. Bob

Although the MCF has a much more robust additive package, you can run the 0W-40 as long as you do not attempt an extended drain interval without analysis. Personally, I'd get away from the K&N Filter as well. Get the EAOM-103 AMSOIL Filter when you buy your oil. You cannot buy a better filter, or buy the WIX 51358. Not making the 0W-40 anymore ? Sounds like some rumor that someone would pick up on Bitog which is about as dependable as looking at oil analysis on there. AMSOIL does purchase PAO stock from Several Vendors and Mobil Chemical is One of them. NOT Mobil oil.. Mobil Chemical.. Two totally different companies under one umbrella. Mobil 1 has to purchase their PAO Stock from Mobil Chemical as well. As far as noticing a difference from the Motul to the AMSOIL. 300V is a very good oil but the difference may be from changing viscosity. You went to a much lighter oil. Bob Well maybe I'll give the mcf a shot next time, and yeah it's a much lighter oil but i was a definate immediate noticeable change, particularly on the down shift it hardly makes any noise at all just notches in like butter. Maybe the bike is breaking in more I dunno by extended interval what do you mean I usually do the oil every 3500 kms or so

Well maybe I'll give the mcf a shot next time, and yeah it's a much lighter oil but i was a definate immediate noticeable change, particularly on the down shift it hardly makes any noise at all just notches in like butter. Maybe the bike is breaking in more I dunno by extended interval what do you mean I usually do the oil every 3500 kms or so I don't know what 3500 kms is in miles but I think it is less than 3000 miles so stay with that. Extended drain means any mileage longer than the OEM Recommends. Bob

Guess I'll chime in. (I'm new to the board, hello folks) I've used Amsoil on many bikes with NO issues. I own a '09 R1 and have a slight prob,,,,,dealership/Yamaha rep tells me NOT to run synthetic oil in my bike:dundun: I've seen tech bulletins for many years telling the customer not to run full synthetic oils (clutch issues). I just turned over 4500 miles and I'm ready to switch to Amsoil....so scare tactics by the Yamaha rep or is there issues with the slipper and synthetic???? Any feedback would make me feel better...

use it.

Guess I'll chime in. (I'm new to the board, hello folks) I've used Amsoil on many bikes with NO issues. I own a '09 R1 and have a slight prob,,,,,dealership/Yamaha rep tells me NOT to run synthetic oil in my bike:dundun: I've seen tech bulletins for many years telling the customer not to run full synthetic oils (clutch issues). I just turned over 4500 miles and I'm ready to switch to Amsoil....so scare tactics by the Yamaha rep or is there issues with the slipper and synthetic???? Any feedback would make me feel better... All salesmen use scare tactics and hyped up claims to sell their stuff. For the past seveal decades, I have used all oils out there with NO issues. Use what ever you like, you will never know the difference.

thanks for the reply....I felt the dealership was just going through the usual motions. Short story; I took the bike in to have them check the cam chain tensioner,,,it was making a bad slap sound ever so often. They told me it was fine (without even looking at it) and was within 'spec'....:lhumper: Then starting in about having full synthetic in the bike, like that was the issue. Damn thing was making noise BEFORE I put Amsoil in. So they dumped my Amsoil and put dino oil back in. So I went ahead and ran the oil, but plan on putting Amsoil right back in....those som'bitches!

thanks for the reply....I felt the dealership was just going through the usual motions. Short story; I took the bike in to have them check the cam chain tensioner,,,it was making a bad slap sound ever so often. They told me it was fine (without even looking at it) and was within 'spec'....:lhumper: Then starting in about having full synthetic in the bike, like that was the issue. Damn thing was making noise BEFORE I put Amsoil in. So they dumped my Amsoil and put dino oil back in. So I went ahead and ran the oil, but plan on putting Amsoil right back in....those som'bitches! ALL Salesman do not use scare tactics.. What a line of BS... Anyhow... Many people still believe there is a break-in period as far as for type of oil used. This was true quite a few years ago but oils have changed and so have materials and machining practices. The initial (600) change is to get machining and casting debris out and you could put synthetic in before you ever leave the Dealership if you wanted to waste the money. The clutch slippage issue can come from using an automotive oil, whether synthetic or petroleum, with the wrong API Specs.. Your manual says an oil with an API SG/SH Spec... A Higher API Spec may be used IF it has a JASO MA Rating. Any Rating higher than SG/SH has friction modifiers which is why you need the JASO MA Rating for them. AMSOIL has a JASO MA 2 Rating on the 3 Motorcycle Specific oils. MA 2 is The Highest Clutch performance rating available today. We can actually go in Supercharged Watercraft that specifically state not to use a Synthetic oil. I hope you contact us for any of your AMSOIL needs whether it be Motorcycle, Auto or anything else you own that uses lubricants. Good isn't cheap Cheap isn't good Bob

All salesmen use scare tactics and hyped up claims to sell their stuff. For the past seveal decades, I have used all oils out there with NO issues. Use what ever you like, you will never know the difference. This is getting rediculous with your misinformation. Oils have changed in the last 4-6 months much less over the last 4-6 years. Even some peoples beloved Rotella which has dropped the CI-4 Rating and is now only CJ-4 for the 2007 and newer diesels and does contain friction modifiers. The OWNERS MANUAL says an API SG/SH oil is the required oil. An oil oil with a higher API can be used IF it carries the JASO MA Rating. REGARDLESS of Brand, Synthetic or petroleum, use a Motorcycle Specific oil with a JASO MA Rating, better yet, MA 2, but never MB. Oil, is the Life Blood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean. Good isn't cheap Cheap isn't good Bob

i use royal purple!!!! i used to use the regular yamalube before but not too long ago i made the change to RP and you definatelly feel the difference. i live in NY and the temp varies from 85 to 100 in summer. i take my bike a lot to the track so i change my oil every 1500 miles not excuse!!! i do almost everything on my bike so it is not that bad. there is a place in NY that sales the qt of Rp @ $7.99

Well..... I would like to add in a few words of appreciation for amsoil. Just finished up the season and put 2796 miles in on the track this year, motr. had about 800 miles on it before it went into the bike. After hearing Lar's info and experience with amsoil I switched over from Repsol 4T Racing. To keep it short and sweet I just took the motor in for a freshen up and my mechanic(30+years of engine building) and also races time to time, called me up and let me know that the internals of the motor were flawlessly clean and unworn or scored. Mentioned that my main almost looked brand new minus a few minor scuffs.... no brass shavings whatsoever..... I have not seen any in my filter except for two flecks in my last oil change.... This is the same dude who gave me shit for switching to amsoil at the beginning of the season...... asked me what oil I was running and just shook his head with a smile when I told him :lol granted he did not make anything off my motor work... So all in all I'm happy with my choice of switching over and this really impressed me, especially for how hard I beat on my gears, and the fact I ring the piss out of my shifts.... motor got me to the podium many times and got me top 3 in two classes and top 5 in two others... and just dynoed .67hp less than its first dyno at the beginning of the season.... with almost Identical condition on the same dyno..... I could care less about numbers, but the reliability of yamaha's build quality and amsoil's protection made my year.... so hopefully there is a little first hand experience here for those who are debating rather than a bunch of bickering and bitching about test done in a lab.....:) Thanks again guys I'll be putting another order in for 4 more gallons here soon

Great Testimonial ! Thank You Good isn't cheap Cheap isn't good Bob

Well..... I would like to add in a few words of appreciation for amsoil. Just finished up the season and put 2796 miles in on the track this year, motr. had about 800 miles on it before it went into the bike. After hearing Lar's info and experience with amsoil I switched over from Repsol 4T Racing. To keep it short and sweet I just took the motor in for a freshen up and my mechanic(30+years of engine building) and also races time to time, called me up and let me know that the internals of the motor were flawlessly clean and unworn or scored. Mentioned that my main almost looked brand new minus a few minor scuffs.... no brass shavings whatsoever..... I have not seen any in my filter except for two flecks in my last oil change.... This is the same dude who gave me shit for switching to amsoil at the beginning of the season...... asked me what oil I was running and just shook his head with a smile when I told him :lol granted he did not make anything off my motor work... So all in all I'm happy with my choice of switching over and this really impressed me, especially for how hard I beat on my gears, and the fact I ring the piss out of my shifts.... motor got me to the podium many times and got me top 3 in two classes and top 5 in two others... and just dynoed .67hp less than its first dyno at the beginning of the season.... with almost Identical condition on the same dyno..... I could care less about numbers, but the reliability of yamaha's build quality and amsoil's protection made my year.... so hopefully there is a little first hand experience here for those who are debating rather than a bunch of bickering and bitching about test done in a lab.....:) Thanks again guys I'll be putting another order in for 4 more gallons here soon i am happy ur bike is running really well... and good luck next year with ur races... however i am still if'y on joining u with amsoil... i have seen/read all the tests...

i am happy ur bike is running really well... and good luck next year with ur races... however i am still if'y on joining u with amsoil... i have seen/read all the tests... Iffy about AMSOIL ? I am just curious here and not trying to start an argument. Just curious about how you came to your conclusion and keep some conversation going. What is there to be Iffy about over using what you run now ? If you are using a Synthetic, they most likely copied it from AMSOIL or someone that did just like Mobil did back in 1974. AMSOIL sets the Standards for Synthetic oils pushing the competition to play catchup. Thanks Joe, Good isn't cheap Cheap isn't good Bob

Iffy about AMSOIL ? I am just curious here and not trying to start an argument. Just curious about how you came to your conclusion and keep some conversation going. What is there to be Iffy about over using what you run now ? If you are using a Synthetic, they most likely copied it from AMSOIL or someone that did just like Mobil did back in 1974. AMSOIL sets the Standards for Synthetic oils pushing the competition to play catchup. Thanks Joe, Good isn't cheap Cheap isn't good Bob i am using motul 5100 10w40... its not that i doubt ur product... but if i dont have a problem with my current oil then (i just went to synthitic) why switch?? yes ur product does what it does and does it well... but if i am meeting yamaha's standards of recommended oil then i should be good... this is the reason why i am iffy... not cuz of the dollar more a quart for a higher quality oil... not cuz i doubt that i can go a year or 8k miles without an oil change with ur products..... in no way do i believe u are trying to start a fight and nor do i want one started... joe

Thanks Joe, Using that thought process, you can use yet a lower priced oil and still meet Yammies requirements though. The 5100 is a blend and I'll bet you are still paying a pretty good price for it. I can get you into a full synthetic for $7.26 per qt plus tax if you buy a case of 12, or M/C Specific for $1.30 per qt more.. Good isn't cheap Cheap isn't good Bob

With the discount we offer Forum Members, it is virtually impossible to purchase AMSOIL for less from any legitimate source. We are receiving some "pressure" to stop our Discounted pricing. Apparently, some AMSOIL Dealers are not happy with us. WAHHH !!! PLEASE save, bookmark or whatever you do so you have our Email: AMSOIL@bestoil4you.com , website: www.bestoil4you.com , Telephone 1-877-356-6099 . Just in case ! LOL Good isn't cheap Cheap isn't good Bob

Thanks Joe, Using that thought process, you can use yet a lower priced oil and still meet Yammies requirements though. The 5100 is a blend and I'll bet you are still paying a pretty good price for it. I can get you into a full synthetic for $7.26 per qt plus tax if you buy a case of 12, or M/C Specific for $1.30 per qt more.. Good isn't cheap Cheap isn't good Bob the thing is... that much oil will last me 2 years... and if i get ur oil filter it will last me 4 years... i have no reason to have that oil... it will be just sitting there... collecting dust... and that is IF i dont deploy between now and then (i am in the military) and i am due to deploy soon after i finish my school :fact

I use Mobil1 oil and filters on all my bikes ('cept the 'Zuki SV650, nothing available for those but stock filters really). Oil is regular car stuff, 15w-50 full synthetic. Filter is the M1-110 (same filter used on the ZX6R and R1). I change oil and filter at 3000 miles. Sometime more often with the track bike, like every other track weekend. The 636 track bike was my sole bike for almost 2 years, doing double duty track and street. It now has 26,266 miles on it and has been a dedicated track bike for the last year. I go to the track 2 weekends each month usually for 7 months out of the year. The bike runs great still and is as strong as ever. Location is San Diego, CA, ride year round with temps in the 90s+ in the summer months and getting into the mid to low 40s in the winter, maybe high 30s if it's really cold in the morning (doesn't happen often tho).

Just switched to the Amsoil after (4700 miles). Been using the Kawasaki dyno oil for break-in. MAN WHAT a diff full synth makes!!! Bike runs smoother, revs easier, and eng temp seems to cool off quicker once up to speed. Can't tell me a 'seat of the pants' improvement is small....I love this stuff!! :bow

Just switched to the Amsoil after (4700 miles). Been using the Kawasaki dyno oil for break-in. MAN WHAT a diff full synth makes!!! Bike runs smoother, revs easier, and eng temp seems to cool off quicker once up to speed. Can't tell me a 'seat of the pants' improvement is small....I love this stuff!! :bow good to hear you are happy with what you got :fact

the thing is... that much oil will last me 2 years... and if i get ur oil filter it will last me 4 years... i have no reason to have that oil... it will be just sitting there... collecting dust... and that is IF i dont deploy between now and then (i am in the military) and i am due to deploy soon after i finish my school :fact You don't know anyone else that rides a motorcycle that would be interested in going in on it with you? I think I'm going to have to start ordering online. I pay about $15/quart at local places here for my oil. Under $8 per quart is half of what I pay.

You don't know anyone else that rides a motorcycle that would be interested in going in on it with you? I think I'm going to have to start ordering online. I pay about $15/quart at local places here for my oil. Under $8 per quart is half of what I pay. How often do you get to Honalulu ? I'll help you get set up to buy at Dealer Cost. If you don't mind waiting for the "Slow Boat" , shipping to Hawaii is about half of stateside. Email me... AMSOIL@bestoil4you.com We are actively seeking new Dealers if anyone is interested. The Best isn't cheap Cheap isn't The Best Bob

the thing is... that much oil will last me 2 years... and if i get ur oil filter it will last me 4 years... i have no reason to have that oil... it will be just sitting there... collecting dust... and that is IF i dont deploy between now and then (i am in the military) and i am due to deploy soon after i finish my school :fact Joe, Buying by the case may be the lowest cost but, I am not in favor of spending money to just get the lowest price. I can use the extra money to make more money. So just get 1 or 2 changes.. 4 qts MCF and the 103 Filter is less than $55.00 plus tax If I didn't previously, I wish to thank you for your service. My son has completed 4 Tours in Irag.. I wish I could do more for you because of your service but I am at cost. I know I speak for everyone here... GOD Bless and Come Home Safe. The Best isn't cheap Cheap isn't The Best Bob

Just switched to the Amsoil after (4700 miles). Been using the Kawasaki dyno oil for break-in. MAN WHAT a diff full synth makes!!! Bike runs smoother, revs easier, and eng temp seems to cool off quicker once up to speed. Can't tell me a 'seat of the pants' improvement is small....I love this stuff!! :bow Thanks JJ, I have had quite a few guys with Cruisers tell me that they noticed their fans coming on less often. I had two guys that split an order and riding with two others (4 total). They noticed in traffic that the two with AMSOIL came on less often. I now ship to all 4 of them. It all depends on the person and how "In-Tune" they are with their machine. Had one guy email me and said he didn't notice a difference.. Literally a few hour later he emailed me again and said a buddy came over and took the bike for a ride and asked him what he did to make it shift so smooth (Suzuki).. He was sold and so was his buddy.. Thanks for the Great Revue.. The Best isn't cheap Cheap isn't The Best Bob

How often do you get to Honalulu ? I'll help you get set up to buy at Dealer Cost. If you don't mind waiting for the "Slow Boat" , shipping to Hawaii is about half of stateside. Email me... AMSOIL@bestoil4you.com We are actively seeking new Dealers if anyone is interested. The Best isn't cheap Cheap isn't The Best Bob I live in Honolulu County, and I live about 15 miles from Honolulu itself. I sent an email yesterday. I don't know if it was that exact one though. I just used the one listed on the website.

Thanks, Just finished painting a bathroom and see your email. I will answer as soon as I eat dinner and chill for a few.. The Best isn't cheap Cheap isn't The Best Bob

I've used Motul 10-40 5100 Ester Synthetic Blend w/ hi-flow filter. Quieted down the motor a bit, and runs smoother. I'll see how things go till my next oil change.

I've used Motul 10-40 5100 Ester Synthetic Blend w/ hi-flow filter. Quieted down the motor a bit, and runs smoother. I'll see how things go till my next oil change. Where do you live in Florida ? The Best isn't cheap Cheap isn't The Best Bob

Lake Mary/Longwood

Lake Mary/Longwood I lived in Longwood right before I moved here to TN.... Apopka before that. Do you ever get aroung OBT and Silver Star ? The Best isn't cheap Cheap isn't The Best Bob

I lived in Longwood right before I moved here to TN.... Apopka before that. Do you ever get aroung OBT and Silver Star ? The Best isn't cheap Cheap isn't The Best Bob Don't really go to that side much, but I know where that's at. I went to school and worked around there. Isn't that where the Amsoil warehouse is...?

Don't really go to that side much, but I know where that's at. I went to school and worked around there. Isn't that where the Amsoil warehouse is...? Yes it is.... That is why I was asking.. If you ever need product, I can set it for pickup under my Dealer Account to save the freight. The Best isn't cheap Cheap isn't The Best Bob

Hey fellas, i just wanna know if different oils effect the temp of your bike and the loudness of engine noise? I changed from yamalube to motul recently and i think my bike engine noise is louder and may be running a little warmer (however when i went for a ride it was a pretty hot night) so that could just be in my head. If this is the case dont im thinking amsoil or mobile 1, anyone had this erxperience with Motul, all comments are appreciated guys so let me have it!

I have the same bike and I had the opposite effect with heat, but I contributed it to slighty cooler weather Also some will be upset at u for saying ur engine temp is differient, so much so that they will not even read your post throughly, Then again I am only saying my experience with the forum

I have the same bike and I had the opposite effect with heat, but I contributed it to slighty cooler weather Also some will be upset at u for saying ur engine temp is differient, so much so that they will not even read your post throughly, Then again I am only saying my experience with the forum I said it may be running a little warmer but it was a hot night when i went out so it could have just been that, anyway my main question is can/do different oils affect engine noise or loudness? It was my second oil change so im sussing out what oil i wanna stcik with ( and yes i've read all the 100's of pages and comments on oils :thumbup) Thanks for the reply joe.

I did not respond to that part due to my lack of knowledge, but I think (somewhere on the r6 forum) there is a thread about engine noise, best of luck with your oil issue

Hey fellas, i just wanna know if different oils effect the temp of your bike and the loudness of engine noise? I changed from yamalube to motul recently and i think my bike engine noise is louder and may be running a little warmer (however when i went for a ride it was a pretty hot night) so that could just be in my head. If this is the case dont im thinking amsoil or mobile 1, anyone had this erxperience with Motul, all comments are appreciated guys so let me have it! The short answer is yes. It gets more involved though.. Yamalube what ? Motul what? Synthetic, non-synthetic.. What you mentioned are companies.. no viscosities or Product codes and they both have everything from petroleum to blends to synthetics. A high quality synthetic (in the same grade) will usually provide cooler oil temps, better shifting, quieter smoother running engine, better fuel mileage and more HP. The Best isn't cheap Cheap isn't The Best Bob

Im using motul 300v and came off yamalube (whatever it was from factory), thanks Bob Also sent you a PM earlier

I am a little surprised at your findings then. The only thing I can think of is that they may have used 20W-50 to prep the bike which will cushion the noise. It will usually run higher oil themps though. The Best isn't cheap Cheap isn't The Best Bob

Hey Bob, In post #214 you said the oil should run cooler then in post #216 you said it will run hotter :confused:, im trying to make as much of a educated decision as i can to chose an oil and stick with it without trialing too many if posible :thumbup

You have to keep it within petroleum to petroleum and Synthetic to Synthetic A 20W-50 will run higher oil temps than a 10W-40 within the same stock. The Best isn't cheap Cheap isn't The Best Bob

Hey Bob, In post #214 you said the oil should run cooler then in post #216 you said it will run hotter :confused:, im trying to make as much of a educated decision as i can to chose an oil and stick with it without trialing too many if posible :thumbup i got the idea that he was talking about going from dino oil to synthetic (or blend) for the temp switch and then went to the topic of 20w 50 to 10w 40... he just didnt mention any type of topic change... for an oil "salesman" to say something so contradicting within a few posts isnt good salesman....