lowering an R1

I'm planning to buy a 2009 R1, and would like to lower it around 50mm, about two inches. I could ive with the stock seat height, but not being an NBA player, and having to be able to do tight maneuvering in a very traffic-congested Seoul, being able to flatfoot is helpful. To do the front, just pull the fork tubes through the triple clamp, yes? Does anyone know how much to pull through to get a certain desired lowering (such as, pull through 0.75" to get a 1.5" drop, etc)? And then for the rear, is it just a simple step of replacing the swingarm dogbone? An infinitely adjustable unit would be preferable IMHO, had those from Soupys for the Hayabusa. I don't want to have a drag bike; I want a great handling lightweight superbike. Has anyone lowered their R1s for NON-drag use? The saddle height on my BMW F800S is about 2.5" lower than stock and the bike is less flickable, but is a lot more stable in sweepers and doesn't get nervous at high speed. In short, I like lowered sport bikes.

I'm planning to buy a 2009 R1, and would like to lower it around 50mm, about two inches. I could ive with the stock seat height, but not being an NBA player, and having to be able to do tight maneuvering in a very traffic-congested Seoul, being able to flatfoot is helpful. To do the front, just pull the fork tubes through the triple clamp, yes? Does anyone know how much to pull through to get a certain desired lowering (such as, pull through 0.75" to get a 1.5" drop, etc)? And then for the rear, is it just a simple step of replacing the swingarm dogbone? An infinitely adjustable unit would be preferable IMHO, had those from Soupys for the Hayabusa. I don't want to have a drag bike; I want a great handling lightweight superbike. Has anyone lowered their R1s for NON-drag use? The saddle height on my BMW F800S is about 2.5" lower than stock and the bike is less flickable, but is a lot more stable in sweepers and doesn't get nervous at high speed. In short, I like lowered sport bikes. In theory if you were to proportionally lower the front in direct relation to the back, rake and bike geometry aside, it should not affect the handling of the machine. You will need to lower the back as needed and then setup your suspension properly by dialing in the proper ride height for the front, SAG and all other relevant settings for a corner carver! Its doable!

ridden bikes lowered properly front and back and u cant tell from stock bike. to do this, u need full adjustable links. ones with 3 holes or triangles are set length. so street riding wont be effected.. just ground clearance and such. at track u will touch pegs and such easily. so u have to watch for pot holes and such on streets.

This is the Lowering Link Triangle. Built solid and made to last. its for an 08 and i am not sure if it will fit an 09! If it does not these people will probably be the first to get them in. Link (http://www.tobefast.com/lowering-links-triangles-c-55215.html) :thumbup

im going to guess that 98-03 link might work on 09. its different from 04 and up. u can see link easily in pics, which on 04 up u cant see it at all. but i would guess that one or even ones for newer ones will work.. but we have to get bike first to find out.

if I go with a 2" drop in the rear, any idea how much I have to pull the forks through? I guess it depends on the steering head angle and if it's changed for the '09 model

if I go with a 2" drop in the rear, any idea how much I have to pull the forks through? I guess it depends on the steering head angle and if it's changed for the '09 model Drop the front in direst proportion to the back. So 2" drop at the back you will need to drop the front 2" also! Then you should setup your suspension!

Drop the front in direst proportion to the back. So 2" drop at the back you will need to drop the front 2" also! Then you should setup your suspension! Basically making sure the bottom of the bike is still parallel with the ground? I think the wheelbase is still slightly shortened am I wrong.

Basically making sure the bottom of the bike is still parallel with the ground? I think the wheelbase is still slightly shortened am I wrong. You are correct and in addition to that the rake is also altered!

yep, but lowering the overall bike 2" in the front means that the forks need to be pulled through, but less than 2". I was just wondering if anyone had done this, and how much they had to pull their forks through. On my BMW, the rear shock was lowered 40mm, and to compensate up front, the forks were pulled through just 10mm.

yep, but lowering the overall bike 2" in the front means that the forks need to be pulled through, but less than 2". I was just wondering if anyone had done this, and how much they had to pull their forks through. When you lower or raise the front or the back of a bike, the bikes geometry and handling characteristics will be dramatically altered! You best starting point is to lower the front and back directly in proportion to each other (this alone seems to work just fine for some riders) and then go about making adjustments and setting-up your suspension! On that note the designer of the current R1 has stated that the front of the bike can be lowered by as much as 15mm safely without altering the rear ride height! Your mileage will vary! On my BMW, the rear shock was lowered 40mm, and to compensate up front, the forks were pulled through just 10mm. That is moot point! Different bike / different geometry but i understand your point!

2 is alot. most of forks are tapered.. so they will only slide thru clamps so far!! 2 inches is pushing it.. might work.. i would think of other ways.. maybe lower bike 1 inch front and rear..then get seat cut down to get u where u need to be.

we'll see when the bike comes in. I may just bite the bullet and keep it stock or lower it just an inch. Come to think of it, I lowered my BMW so much so that I could be REALLY sure and stable while lane splitting and in traffic while riding with my wife (when riding two-up, you ride to protect your passenger, period). But since my R1 will never carry anyone but me, I don't have to take that into consideration, and can be free to hop around the saddle and stay stable in slow (0-10mph) riding situations.

You are correct and in addition to that the rake is also altered! Actually if both ends are lowered the same amount rake would be the same, but trail would be reduced. 2 is alot. most of forks are tapered.. so they will only slide thru clamps so far!! 2 inches is pushing it.. might work.. i would think of other ways.. maybe lower bike 1 inch front and rear..then get seat cut down to get u where u need to be. That would be my approach. And I would implicitly trust 1longR1 on this as he deals with lowering bikes on a regular basis. For reasons of trail, swingarm angle, and squat/anti-squat I would limit it to one inch and find the other inch in the seat.

don't do it is my advise. Learn to come to a stop with just putting your left foot down. It makes for a more stable take off since you're not hoisting both feet back onto the pegs. I have taught tons of short riders to do this..its simple and you probably already know how if you rode a dirtbike prior. Practice is the key here. Doing multiple stops in a parking lot at low speeds will help get the technique down.