2009 R1 power commander maps

Hi guys Have just recieved my two brothers carbon slip ons and was wondering if anybody else has tried these cans and what your thoughts are.Am thinkinf of getting a power comamder to go with the cans and to try and erradicate the shocking bottom end throtle response. Your thoughts would be appreciated P.S anybody got a map for the twobrothers cans i could try Cheers Brian

Hi guys Have just recieved my two brothers carbon slip ons and was wondering if anybody else has tried these cans and what your thoughts are.Am thinkinf of getting a power comamder to go with the cans and to try and erradicate the shocking bottom end throtle response. Your thoughts would be appreciated P.S anybody got a map for the twobrothers cans i could try Cheers Brian What do you mean, "eradicate the shocking bottom-end throttle response" ???

I'm running the Two Brothers carbon slip ons but no PC and I too would like to know what cha mean :dundun:

well guys in standard form the bike seemed very snatchy low down especially into very tight 1st gear hairpin bends seemed like it took an age to hook up power after a closed throttle but after changing to the two brothers cans this does seem a little improved (and also getting used to the bike maybe i was a little premiture in my comments after only having the bike for approx 3 weeks) but still think a PC would improve this even more

well guys in standard form the bike seemed very snatchy low down especially into very tight 1st gear hairpin bends seemed like it took an age to hook up power after a closed throttle but after changing to the two brothers cans this does seem a little improved (and also getting used to the bike maybe i was a little premiture in my comments after only having the bike for approx 3 weeks) but still think a PC would improve this even more Well, you're the second member I've now heard complain about rough low-RPM throttle response -

Hey guys... Yea my bike isn't fond of low rpms but I have been riding for years and I had an '06 before the '09 and they r just that way. 1k liter bikes r designed for mid to high range rpm. That's y. But I just had a guy custom make me an xhaust and I just got the pc5 so I will keep yall informed.

well guys in standard form the bike seemed very snatchy low down especially into very tight 1st gear hairpin bends seemed like it took an age to hook up power after a closed throttle but after changing to the two brothers cans this does seem a little improved (and also getting used to the bike maybe i was a little premiture in my comments after only having the bike for approx 3 weeks) but still think a PC would improve this even more Spot on Bud. I do not like the on-off effect in 1st gear in low speed low rpms. Everything else is smooth. I too would buy electronics to get rid of it.

DO the PCIII USBs even work on the 09s? I just got to thinking, that may be one more thing I have to buy new.

no it's the new PC V (power commander five) for the new model R1 (like most 08/09 bikes). has new features etc, but they're half the size of the PC3USB almost, as the underseat space on the newer bikes is shocking after you have an alarm fitted

I'm looking for a map for my north american 09 R1 with Akrapovic slip-ons + cat eliminator pipe but it doesn't exist on Dynojet's site. Does anyone have a good map for this setup? I'm thinking of just using Dynojet's Graves + cat eliminator map for the time being as that's probably a closer match than the standard Akra slip-ons map. Any thoughts?

No one has a good PCV map for the 09 R1 + Akrapovic slipons + Y pipe? Really??

wtf?

use the graves map ... its the only map with the Y pipe . The muffler wont change the AFR too much . Also PLEASE update the firmware in the PCV to 1.2.3 Im running it with the values set .6 leaner , at elevation , so lean accordingly .

I've been running that graves + Y map for my akra + Y setup and its running really rich resulting in terrible fuel economy. I'm going on a fairly long road trip this weekend so I'm probably going to run the zero map so that it runs a bit leaner. Apparently there's a new Yosh + Y map that I might also try sometime (at least have a look at its table).

yes I seen that ... There is a firmware version 1.3 now as well .

any news on a map for akra slip -ons and akra y-pipe???

No, according to Dynojet they weren't provided with a Y-Pipe for testing. I've just been running zero map lately as it runs fine. Once I get the PAIR system blocked-off I'll take it in for dyno tuning at the same time and have a custom map. Besides, from what I keep hearing, Dynojet maps are... you know.

All of our maps are what? I have read this before on other sites and although our maps may not be perfect for your bike they should be pretty damn close. Every map is developed in house by getting stated bike and installing stated components. Just about every map is targeted to around 13.0-13.4 AFR. These maps are developed by the same guys that go to the track for the AMA races and tune all the bikes and in the same manner. Some maps on the site are from local customers and the map is perfect for their setup so should be good for yours also. Granted if your bike is a different state of tune or does not compensate properly for your region then the map may be slightly off. We have done many dyno shootouts all over the place and the guys that have the Power Commander with a map off our site with the same setup as the map states it is almost perfect every time.

Why haven't you guys got a map with the slip-ons and a Y-pipe yet ?

Map 22-006-002 is for this setup.

Ok... So i can use this Map (for the Graves) without any Problem for my Akra Slip-on and y-pipe setup? I got a European R1...since you differentiate between US and European Models As far as the Maps go on your homepage, will i be able to use this Map without any Problem with my European version of the Bike? What is the reason why you differentiate between US and European Models concerning the Maps?

euro and US spec bikes (they're different) so they need different maps. plus in america pump gas is a much lower octane than over here in the UK, plus a lot of other factors as well. having looked at the difference between US and euro spec maps the US maps just tend to be a bit richer so you should be able to use it with no issues, however I would speak to tech support at dynojet first if you are unsure. or stop being a tightwad and get a custom map so it's done properly

easy..easy ...:lol i dont even have a PCV yet..just gathering information beforehand to be able to have as much knowledge as possible concerning the powercommander. Of course, getting a custom map would be the best as i hear from most people, but for starters a downloaded map should do it as well...thats why i'm asking.

i installed the PCV and Autotuner on my 2009 R1 with Leo Vince Evo2 full system, stock air filter, plugged PAIR system. Using the map xxx-008 for that setup it ran like crap. The autotuner made it worse. I zeroed out the fuel table and it ran much better. After running the Autotuner on the zero fuel map it now runs pretty good but still gets a little hesitation here and there at constant throttle around 4k-6k rpm. If anyone else has the same exhaust system as me and a map that runs decent please let me know. I will take the bike in for a custom dyno run A/F map soon and see if that fixes it.

Hello every one, i just installed a new baffle kit on my 09 r1. I was wondering if i need to install a power commander??::thumbup

With the PCV and autotune does the autotune actually write a map into the PCV? so in theory you could remove the autotune after a while, or does it just make the PCV run in what is effectively closed loop all the time?

The Auto tune will populate a trim table. These trims are being used while you are riding. If you want to apply these trims to your base map just hit ACCEPT TRIMS and you will have a new base map. You could at this point remove the Auto tune assuming it has finished adjusting all areas. Or you could leave it on.

I'm looking for a map for my north american 09 R1 with Akrapovic slip-ons + cat eliminator pipe but it doesn't exist on Dynojet's site. Does anyone have a good map for this setup? I'm thinking of just using Dynojet's Graves + cat eliminator map for the time being as that's probably a closer match than the standard Akra slip-ons map. Any thoughts? No one has a good PCV map for the 09 R1 + Akrapovic slipons + Y pipe? Really?? I have the Full Akra's + PCV + Auto Tune I did recive maps from DynoJet but they were not that great. I took it to my dyno guy and had him alter the DynJet map in for me. It was a few more dollars but worth every dime. No more shitty low-end thank god! and it screams for more after 10K. Where as the Dynojet maps killed the power by 15% after 10K to keep the bike under the govener!

The Auto tune will populate a trim table. These trims are being used while you are riding. If you want to apply these trims to your base map just hit ACCEPT TRIMS and you will have a new base map. You could at this point remove the Auto tune assuming it has finished adjusting all areas. Or you could leave it on. You have to plug it up to a computer after every ride to accept the trim table. No acceptance on the fly.....sucks. Great for race days but shitty for street use. Notice I said ACCEPTANCE. Oh it will remap allday to what is stored on the bike but only for that run when you accepted the trim via computer. So set up is so improtant for street riders, if you set it up in less than ideal riding climate (temp, humidity, ect.) the bike will run like shit. Only after your run will that trim be avalible to store in the Auto Tune. My sugestion would be to realy think how much your going to be setting the bike up for riding conditions. If its just a one time thing then save your money, on the other hand if youl ive where the climate changes drasticly(hot, cold, humid, rain...) or ride track or super agressive street then the Auto Tune is a must have

I think you are mistaken. While riding in Auto tune mode the trims that it populates are being used in real time. So if the Auto tune trim table has a value of 10 in a cell it is using that 10 as you ride. If you want that 10 to be added to your base map then you hit ACCEPT TRIMS and now your base map will have the change and your trim table will be zeroed out.

I think you are mistaken. While riding in Auto tune mode the trims that it populates are being used in real time. So if the Auto tune trim table has a value of 10 in a cell it is using that 10 as you ride. If you want that 10 to be added to your base map then you hit ACCEPT TRIMS and now your base map will have the change and your trim table will be zeroed out. Hi Dynojetresearch, could you answer a few questions for me please? After my service (Thus) I fit PC and autotune ( previosly I have had custom maps on all my bikes) If i'm out on a run and stop for fuel, will turning the ignition off zero the autotune? I presumably need to block the air admittance (smog system) off? WOuld I need to plug my lap top into the bike after every run until I have enough info to build a proper table? Will the bike throw up an error code with the o2 sensor unplugged? Thanks:)

i installed the PCV and Autotuner on my 2009 R1 with Leo Vince Evo2 full system, stock air filter, plugged PAIR system. Using the map xxx-008 for that setup it ran like crap. The autotuner made it worse. I zeroed out the fuel table and it ran much better. After running the Autotuner on the zero fuel map it now runs pretty good but still gets a little hesitation here and there at constant throttle around 4k-6k rpm. If anyone else has the same exhaust system as me and a map that runs decent please let me know. I will take the bike in for a custom dyno run A/F map soon and see if that fixes it. UPDATE: So I took the bike to Lee's Cycle in San Diego to get the PCV custom mapped on the dyno. I told them specifically that the low end was running like crap and hesitating around 4k rpm constant throttle with the map xxx-008 and my many attempts at tweaking the map. After 6 hours on the dyno I was told that my bike wasn't behaving and it was wanting to run rich and then lean all by itself and they didn't understand what was going on. At the end of the day the manager said he needed to keep my bike for another day to figure it out. He also told me that if they found any installation problems with the power commander caused by me that he would charge me another $100 to figure it out, on top of the $300 that they were already charging for the dyno run. The next day he called me in the afternoon and told me that the bike was done. When I picked the bike up and rode down the street I noticed that they had put over 100 miles on the odometer on the dyno and that it was still running like crap at the low end. I called back and asked the manager if he had figured out what the problem was and how he corrected it. He told me that he didn't know what the problem was, and that he hadn't asked the mechanic, and that it didn't matter because he wasn't charging me the extra $100. I told him that it was still running like crap at the low end. He said that it sounds like something is wrong and needs to be diagnosed for another $100 and to bring it back in! WTF??? Either the PCV has some serious design issues for use on the 09R1 or the guy running the dyno has no clue what he's doing because it's his first PCV or his first 09R1. Probably a combination of both? PS: After the dyno tune the Auto-tuner was still wanting to adjust the trims by a lot! You would think it should be close to zero! I will now be taking the power commander completely out and see if it runs better without it. Update to follow...

i installed the PCV and Autotuner on my 2009 R1 with Leo Vince Evo2 full system, stock air filter, plugged PAIR system. Using the map xxx-008 for that setup it ran like crap. The autotuner made it worse. I zeroed out the fuel table and it ran much better. After running the Autotuner on the zero fuel map it now runs pretty good but still gets a little hesitation here and there at constant throttle around 4k-6k rpm. If anyone else has the same exhaust system as me and a map that runs decent please let me know. I will take the bike in for a custom dyno run A/F map soon and see if that fixes it. UPDATE: So I took the bike to Lee's Cycle in San Diego to get the PCV custom mapped on the dyno. I told them specifically that the low end was running like crap and hesitating around 4k rpm constant throttle with the map xxx-008 and my many attempts at tweaking the map. After 6 hours on the dyno I was told that my bike wasn't behaving and it was wanting to run rich and then lean all by itself and they didn't understand what was going on. At the end of the day the manager said he needed to keep my bike for another day to figure it out. He also told me that if they found any installation problems with the power commander caused by me that he would charge me another $100 to figure it out, on top of the $300 that they were already charging for the dyno run. The next day he called me in the afternoon and told me that the bike was done. When I picked the bike up and rode down the street I noticed that they had put over 100 miles on the odometer on the dyno and that it was still running like crap at the low end. I called back and asked the manager if he had figured out what the problem was and how he corrected it. He told me that he didn't know what the problem was, and that he hadn't asked the mechanic, and that it didn't matter because he wasn't charging me the extra $100. I told him that it was still running like crap at the low end. He said that it sounds like something is wrong and needs to be diagnosed for another $100 and to bring it back in! WTF??? Either the PCV has some serious design issues for use on the 09R1 or the guy running the dyno has no clue what he's doing because it's his first PCV or his first 09R1. Probably a combination of both? PS: After the dyno tune the Auto-tuner was still wanting to adjust the trims by a lot! You would think it should be close to zero! I will now be taking the power commander completely out and see if it runs better without it. Update to follow... UPDATE: So I spent the afternoon troubleshooting. 1st run: I disconnected the Auto-tuner and plugged the port on the PCV with the CAN plug. I wanted to see if the Auto-tuner was affecting the PCV. The test ride proved no difference and still ran like crap. 2nd run: I completely removed the PCV and installed the stock O2 sensor. VOILA!!! The throttle runs smooth like butter through the whole low end and even at constant throttle at 4k or slow roll-on anywhere around that rpm. I'm keeping the stock setup and getting rid of the PCV and Auto-tuner! After countless hours trouble shooting, testing, mapping, re-mapping, and dyno-tuning, I have come to the realization that the PCV has a serious issue at the low rpm range and especially between 4k - 6k rpm with hesitation and lurching at constant throttle or slow roll-on. The horsepower gain over the stock setting is so minimal that it is not worth the expense or headache with throttle issues. The graph I received from Lee's after 9hrs on the dyno showed their tuned curve directly on top of the zero map curve and still ran like crap.

UPDATE: So I spent the afternoon troubleshooting. 1st run: I disconnected the Auto-tuner and plugged the port on the PCV with the CAN plug. I wanted to see if the Auto-tuner was affecting the PCV. The test ride proved no difference and still ran like crap. 2nd run: I completely removed the PCV and installed the stock O2 sensor. VOILA!!! The throttle runs smooth like butter through the whole low end and even at constant throttle at 4k or slow roll-on anywhere around that rpm. I'm keeping the stock setup and getting rid of the PCV and Auto-tuner! After countless hours trouble shooting, testing, mapping, re-mapping, and dyno-tuning, I have come to the realization that the PCV has a serious issue at the low rpm range and especially between 4k - 6k rpm with hesitation and lurching at constant throttle or slow roll-on. The horsepower gain over the stock setting is so minimal that it is not worth the expense or headache with throttle issues. The graph I received from Lee's after 9hrs on the dyno showed their tuned curve directly on top of the zero map curve and still ran like crap. Yamaha has it figured out...Dynojet does not! You need to speak to Dynojet for a couple of reasons, first I don't believe they would introduce something that just does not work, if the autotune removal didn't fix it then the o2 controller in the PCV sounds faulty, you must have a faulty unit. Second, if the unit is faulty dynojet need to be a) paying for the last dyno bill, and b) supplying a new pcv and out of courtesy paying for a new custiom map.:) PS: i'm glad you have got your bike running well again--nice work

slider996 - Do you have a copy of your map when it was running poorly? If so please send it to me - dusty@dynojet.com. Issues that could be causing this: Clean air not blocked exhaust leak poor placement of the Auto tune O2 sensor Bad O2 sensor Faulty O2 controller or PCV Since I don't have the bike in front of me I can't say for sure what it is. If you are certain the install is correct and you don't have any of the issues listed above send us the unit. We will install it on a bike here and test it out. There was a similar issue on 2 different bikes on the CBR board and we went round and round with the customers only to fine out that both were an install issue. One guy had his sensor right at the muffler junction which was causing bad data to the O2 sensor. The other guy had coiled and zip tied the harness from the O2 sensor. The Bosch sensor uses reference air which comes down the sheathing of the sensor. If you tightly wrap the sheathing or zip tie it the sensor will NOT work properly. The sensor harness needs to be as straight as possible and do NOT zip tie it tightly. Let us know. mikef4uk - shutting the power down does not erase the trim table

UPDATE: So I took the bike to Lee's Cycle in San Diego to get the PCV custom mapped on the dyno. I told them specifically that the low end was running like crap and hesitating around 4k rpm constant throttle with the map xxx-008 and my many attempts at tweaking the map. After 6 hours on the dyno I was told that my bike wasn't behaving and it was wanting to run rich and then lean all by itself and they didn't understand what was going on. At the end of the day the manager said he needed to keep my bike for another day to figure it out. He also told me that if they found any installation problems with the power commander caused by me that he would charge me another $100 to figure it out, on top of the $300 that they were already charging for the dyno run. The next day he called me in the afternoon and told me that the bike was done. When I picked the bike up and rode down the street I noticed that they had put over 100 miles on the odometer on the dyno and that it was still running like crap at the low end. I called back and asked the manager if he had figured out what the problem was and how he corrected it. He told me that he didn't know what the problem was, and that he hadn't asked the mechanic, and that it didn't matter because he wasn't charging me the extra $100. I told him that it was still running like crap at the low end. He said that it sounds like something is wrong and needs to be diagnosed for another $100 and to bring it back in! WTF??? Either the PCV has some serious design issues for use on the 09R1 or the guy running the dyno has no clue what he's doing because it's his first PCV or his first 09R1. Probably a combination of both? PS: After the dyno tune the Auto-tuner was still wanting to adjust the trims by a lot! You would think it should be close to zero! I will now be taking the power commander completely out and see if it runs better without it. Update to follow... slider996 - Do you have a copy of your map when it was running poorly? If so please send it to me - dusty@dynojet.com. Issues that could be causing this: Clean air not blocked exhaust leak poor placement of the Auto tune O2 sensor Bad O2 sensor Faulty O2 controller or PCV Since I don't have the bike in front of me I can't say for sure what it is. If you are certain the install is correct and you don't have any of the issues listed above send us the unit. We will install it on a bike here and test it out. There was a similar issue on 2 different bikes on the CBR board and we went round and round with the customers only to fine out that both were an install issue. One guy had his sensor right at the muffler junction which was causing bad data to the O2 sensor. The other guy had coiled and zip tied the harness from the O2 sensor. The Bosch sensor uses reference air which comes down the sheathing of the sensor. If you tightly wrap the sheathing or zip tie it the sensor will NOT work properly. The sensor harness needs to be as straight as possible and do NOT zip tie it tightly. Let us know. mikef4uk - shutting the power down does not erase the trim table DynojetResearch - I will make a pdf of the dyno chart and email it to you shortly. You will see what appears to me to be a big dip in torque and Hp right at 4k rpm. This is where the hesitation and lurching takes place. To go over your suggestions; Clean air not blocked I have the clean air intake tube plugged in the air box. exhaust leak I installed the Leo Vince Evo2 full system myself and all joints are a pretty good precision fit. poor placement of the Auto tune O2 sensor The Leo Vince system has a welded port at the same location as the stock exhaust. The bike was still running like crap with the Autotune module removed from the PCV and running PCV only. Bad O2 sensor I did the diagnostic test of the O2 sensor with the Auto-tune module. It showed that it is working properly but was at the low end of the chart for sea level. I do get A/F ratio numbers on the control center. The bike was still running like crap with the Autotune module removed from the PCV and running PCV only. Faulty O2 controller or PCV The green LED light does come on for the O2 controller so I assume it is working. Faulty? Maybe. That might explain why the download map doesn't work and why the bike wants to go lean then rich on the dyno. Either that or the PCV is just not communicating with the stock controller properly. I did the installation myself very carefully and did troubleshooting of the connections several times. Everything looked correct. I did also call tech support and he told me about the O2 sensor needing to breath. The sheath at the sensor end is pretty straight and should have no problem breathing. After riding the bike without the PCV connected for a day now I have noticed (just by the sound of the exhaust) that I probably have lost some horsepower by not having the PCV but I have gained considerable throttle control and smooth accurate throttle response, which I think is way more important. Now if only I can get the horsepower gain with the smooth accurate throttle response, we may have something! Can you help me? FYI: At this point I would be reluctant to re-install a PCV unless you have tested my unit or a replacement unit on an 09 R1 with a similar setup and can certify that it works with smooth throttle response at the low end especially around 4k rpm.

slider996 - Do you have a copy of your map when it was running poorly? If so please send it to me - dusty@dynojet.com. Issues that could be causing this: Clean air not blocked exhaust leak poor placement of the Auto tune O2 sensor Bad O2 sensor Faulty O2 controller or PCV Since I don't have the bike in front of me I can't say for sure what it is. If you are certain the install is correct and you don't have any of the issues listed above send us the unit. We will install it on a bike here and test it out. There was a similar issue on 2 different bikes on the CBR board and we went round and round with the customers only to fine out that both were an install issue. One guy had his sensor right at the muffler junction which was causing bad data to the O2 sensor. The other guy had coiled and zip tied the harness from the O2 sensor. The Bosch sensor uses reference air which comes down the sheathing of the sensor. If you tightly wrap the sheathing or zip tie it the sensor will NOT work properly. The sensor harness needs to be as straight as possible and do NOT zip tie it tightly. Let us know. mikef4uk - shutting the power down does not erase the trim table Dusty, My email to you of the dyno chart got rejected by your server as spam (twice). Any suggestions?

The dyno graph really does me no good unfortunately. So with the Auto tune removed have you tried reloading a map off the site that is close to your setup? Does this still cause the issue? Have you verfied that your TPS is reporting correctly in the PCV software?

The dyno graph really does me no good unfortunately. So with the Auto tune removed have you tried reloading a map off the site that is close to your setup? Does this still cause the issue? Have you verfied that your TPS is reporting correctly in the PCV software? I compared the Lee's dyno map to the download map from your website and they are practically identical, or I should say very close. I don't think it's a mapping issue especially after testing several variations of the download map without the Auto-tune running. I also did have the TPS calibrated on the dyno the week before the custom map was done and verified I was getting numbers in the control panel. This didn't help the problem. I am starting to suspect a bad O2 controller. I am also wondering how a sensorless black box O2 controller can effectively replace the stock O2 sensor. If I am running just the PCV, doesn't this change the bike from a stock closed loop system, to a Dynojet open loop system???

You could just unplug the stock O2 sensor without the system triggering a FI light but under certain conditions the ECU checks for the O2 sensor and when it doesn't see it the fuel curve goes very rich. We are turning the bike into an open loop system. If you don't bypass the O2 sensor the ECU will keep the AFR at 14.7:1 in certain RPM ranges no matter what values you put in the PCV. Install a zero map and ride the bike. If the problem is still there then we have an issue with the PCV and we'll need you to send it back.

You could just unplug the stock O2 sensor without the system triggering a FI light but under certain conditions the ECU checks for the O2 sensor and when it doesn't see it the fuel curve goes very rich. We are turning the bike into an open loop system. If you don't bypass the O2 sensor the ECU will keep the AFR at 14.7:1 in certain RPM ranges no matter what values you put in the PCV. Install a zero map and ride the bike. If the problem is still there then we have an issue with the PCV and we'll need you to send it back. I did run a zero map with the Auto-tune off and still had the problem. I will call tech support tomorrow for an RMA and send everything back.

After a nice and succesfull PC5 install i have a few questions. I installed the speed signal tap, too. TPS shows 0% at idle, warm. ok. Speed: shows about halve of the tacho display. Right before clicking calibrate it comes in my mind, what about miles/km/h? Nowhere to find a unit, also in userguide. I ordered from italy, maybe it's then in km/h? Or does it change with language change? Who knows... someone?:dunno I left it as it was and checked gear calibration. It recognized the gears allready correct and the calibration changed the values only a bit, most in 1st gear. I'm on -1 front sprocket. When i know in what unit i have to calibrate, should i input the corrected numbers for the shorter gearing or the numbers i see on tacho? Is the speed input only used to calculate the gear you're in? 2nd question @ DynojetResearch: Did you use european gas for the mappings on euro bikes? And on what elevations? 3rd question: Is the map comparison feature in ver.5 gone? I saw it in a pic of ver.3 and can't find it. I realy would like to use that. Thanks to you DynojetResearch or anyone else who can answer my questions.

The speed calibration is done in MPH. This will not affect gear position but will affect the display in the software. If that is a concern you will need to calibrate it to KPH. The European maps were done in either England or Italy with their respective fuels. The PCV software does NOT have the map compare at this time. It is something we plan on adding so keep an eye on the website for updates.

didnt go through the whole thread cause im at work but i have the TBR CF cans and a PC V, havent been to dyno yet but i am useing the map from the PC websites databse. much better performance from before the PC V. auto tune and y-pipe are next.... though not sure if i want to buy the TBR y-pipe or just gut mine....

I just bought the PCV with AutoTune for my 09 R1. I just have a K&N at this point. Is the problem that slider996 had common? Have there been that many issues with the PCV on the 09 models? I want to install it, but wondering if I should just wait until I get my exhaust, plugs and miracle mod (airbox) upgrades. Any suggestions?

I just bought the PCV with AutoTune for my 09 R1. I just have a K&N at this point. Is the problem that slider996 had common? Have there been that many issues with the PCV on the 09 models? I want to install it, but wondering if I should just wait until I get my exhaust, plugs and miracle mod (airbox) upgrades. Any suggestions? Uhm, me too. Confident someone will be along with an answer or two. :sing:

I just bought the PCV with AutoTune for my 09 R1. I just have a K&N at this point. Is the problem that slider996 had common? Have there been that many issues with the PCV on the 09 models? I want to install it, but wondering if I should just wait until I get my exhaust, plugs and miracle mod (airbox) upgrades. Any suggestions? I received my PCV back from Dynojet after they tested it. They said they updated it and there was nothing wrong with it. Hmmm. They didn't say what they updated but when I sent it back it had the latest firmware and that hasn't changed on the website. I haven't re-installed it yet, but when I do I will post an update.

I did what this guy did and omg ... whole new bike http://www.starvmax.com/blog/printblog?index_php?view=article&id=98&tmpl=component&print=1 less popping and A mode in town is just plain dirty on a hot day . lol . love this bike

slider996- what was your service ticket #. I will look into this.

Is there any plans on making the Power commanders Mac friendly?

Is there any plans on making the Power commanders Mac friendly? Not at this time

I did what this guy did and omg ... whole new bike http://www.starvmax.com/blog/printblog?index_php?view=article&id=98&tmpl=component&print=1 less popping and A mode in town is just plain dirty on a hot day . lol . love this bike Yes, I did too after posting it on my PCV post, I now have a pretty nicely fuelled bike in the lower/midrange area's, i'm just trying to find a stretch where I can do a 100% throttle pull in a higher gear:scared The the 'Stavmax' site did go a lot weaker on the target AFR though, did you mess with that or leave it as Dynojets default? I have also been reducing the max/min parameters, i'm now at 5%, I find with larger %'s that once you start riding normal with blipping for downchanges and squirts of acceleration the AT puts some odd values in I also found that after copying the 10% column into the 5% one that on the next run out the 10% column went the other way i.e was showing +5% fuel, next run it went to -4% fuel. On the tapping into the Throttle pot I have never used dynojets splicer, I carefully melt the insulation away with a soldering iron over about 4mm, then just carefully solder the wire tap on, no issues on many installs.

I went with my own AFR ratios from the Yosh map .. #10 on the Dynojest site . When I changed the values to 0 where it was recomended the autotune worked amazingly well .. 2 trim sessions and it was done .. I havent moved the 10% trims into the 5% trims yet . I found running the 14s in afr for the bottom end made the bike run hotter and more popping on deacelleration . When I race it next year though I will run a higher AFR . I do seriously believe that there is something wrong with the PCV/Bike in the bottom end . It should trim those AFR as the rest but we end up with some crazy numbers and poor performance . Step it up Dynojest , many people have the same problem .

I have the whole target map set to 13.2 except the high load settings which I have left untouched, the bike is running superb, but I may watch where in the rpm band I find myself in 'cruise mode' and alter that target area to 13.7. I am of the opinion that the AT is very good ONCE you do something like starvmax has done, I don't think it's as 'plug and play' as D/Jet reckon it to be, I nearly ripprd it off a couple of times, I just could'nt believe how bad it could make my bike run in the low rpm small throttle part, now I am very happy with it:) But I will keep playing with it:bash

Hi. I cant believe you guys dont know the answer to your problems. and especially dynojet. I do. its easy! Its not the PC V, so stop blaming them. Its the bike itself and the factory ecu. at the 4-6 thou rpm range the bike has its ycct and ycci shit happening. It cant be tuned around this rpm because of it. it is adjusting the trumpets according to the throttle position, so it constantly getting different amounts of air! the maps in the pcv are only set for one position on the trumpets. so wen your opening it up on the throttle it is leaning out so much your bike is running like shit. the pcv doesn't know this and the bike cant figure out wats going on cause it doesn't know bout the pcv. Can you see it now? this is why it also runs hot at low rpm and not high rpm, because its not actually tuned at low rpm. this is all your problems are...... I had mine done on the dyno, it was at the shop for nearly two days, did over 200km on the dyno and came back absolutely amazing! the gains were phenominal! SERIUOSLY! maybe not on the graphs and figures, but trust me its amazing! Dynojet, can you explain this bit? I have two bro mufflers, y pipe and gytr air filter. anyway.... To fix the problem you need to run it extra rich on the fuel table (4-6 thou rpm). this will only run the bike rich wen the throttle is partly open. once open properly it will run at the correct afr and problems gone! However, down side to this is if you are riding at 100km (60mph) cruising along in 5th or 6th gear you use lots and lots of fuel. i ride in 4th which brings up rpm to a better afr. if your going fast 5th and 6th work normally as the revs are higher. Now to the auto tune...... You DONT need one, unless..... you are intending on changing your set up from time to time, eg, air filter, exhaust, cams, wat ever! You still need the first map to be correct, either from the dyno or download. i recomend dyno. from there if you modify the bike the auto tuned can be plugged in and it will change the fuel table to meet the requirements of how the map was. EASY. Stop trying to do on the fly stuff, its way to complicated for the factory ecu to deal with. once the bike is tuned, take the auto tune off. leave the pcv alone. it will be fine. especially if its dyno tuned correctly and they know wat they are doing! Big thumbs up to "pro cycles" in Napier, New Zealand! Well worth the money! If you have any questions, just ask.

YZR-M1 rider: Sounds like you got the cure. But dont you have the "un-restricted bike"? which means shouldnt there be no restrictions arround the 4-6 mark? I think I speak for most of us when I say that if we could just run extra rich between 4-6000, i think all of us would do it. Im sure many of the members who have tried to tune it must have tried this at some point. Also, im not sure if this makes a difference, but if the petrol down under has a higher octane, does this make a difference? in Canada, we have 94 octane. But damn, if this does work, im definitely doin this. I ve wanted to go dyno mine, but seems like alot of members spent lots of $$$ to be disapointed. weve gain barely 2-3 h.p. and some have reported that the bike practically runs worst...I know we cant do shit about top end but at least if we can get a good upgrade at low end, that would make most of us happy. The guy who comes out with de restricting top end will be every 09 r1 owner's best friend!!!!!

slider996- what was your service ticket #. I will look into this. Purchase Order - RMA:20114198, Invoice #234512 Thanks for checking. I would be interested to know if this unit ever made it on a bike with a similar setup for testing as requested.

Purchase Order - RMA:20114198, Invoice #234512 Thanks for checking. I would be interested to know if this unit ever made it on a bike with a similar setup for testing as requested. Sure did - we got a bike from a local dealer and installed the PCV with a zero map and went thru the different throttle positions with no issues. We made sure the unit was up to date and sent it back. We reloaded the map that you had in it when it was sent in. I would like to see you download a map from the site that best correlates to your setup and go ride the bike to see if the problem persists. If not then go ahead and install Auto tune and ride it again. Please let us know.

hi. In nz we have a standard octane rating of 91, 95 everywhere. BP does "ultimate" which is 98. this is wat my bike is tuned to. How is your bike restricted at top end? i dont know anything bout this..... On the dyno i too only gained a hp or 2. same with the torqe. Dont worry. for some reason my bike is now so so much quicker. i have way more power in "standard" mode than the bike in "a" mode before the pcv. so just imagine how it is in "a" mode now? Scary as F**k! People may not have just up the fuel to extra rich around 4-6k simply because they dont think it would be necessary as the values that are in "should work" but obviously they dont work. thats why we are here. just try it. it may take a bit of playing/guessing if you not doing it on dyno......but it will still work. :saw:

hey, i may try it, but a part from installing the pc5 and adding a map from the website, i honestly dont know how to tune it. trust me, if i knew, it be done :) wow 98 octane!!! geese! that would be great here..but i gotta settle for 94, which is still good. as for the restricted top end, well its a sad story...Due to the north american epa regulations, yamaha has built in the ecu a restriction on our bikes. once it hits approx 11800rpm, our throttle close by 20% (only 80% open) even though the handle is turned completely!!!! in turn we lose approx 6-10 peak h.p. which sucks a**!!! we all know what 10 h.p. can do in a race..so a part from N.America and France(their bikes are reg. at 100h.p.)im pretty sure the rest of the world has the full power after 11800..**btw, the pcv cannot remove the restriction. The other restriction is at 4-6000, which is what were talking about. but if your trick works, then at least that part would be solved... I think ill try and find a good dyno, and mainly a good tuner and try fix this mid range prob. The other solution is a YEC race kit.FULL THROTTLE ALL THE TIME!!!

A full yam race kit ecu would be awesome for you. it would prob solve the 4-6 rpm prob, def solve your top end restriction. It will come at a cost though.... $$$ would be high., still need to be tuned. and you'll loose the factory enhanced rider aids in the ecu you dont know about..... eg, wen your decelarting and the throotle is completely off the ecu actually holds it open about 6%. this help prevent rear wheel lock up. cool trick. it makes it easier for average joe like us to ride. there will be others with the ecu as well. so if you take it out and put in the yam race ecu, you'll have a pure race ecu. could be tricky to ride. Are you sure the pcv cant fix your 80% power prob? i belive it can adjust fuel and air according to the throttle position which should elimate your prob. just the last 20% of the throttle is a waste of space. Can you shed some light on this dynojet guy? pcv is so eay to install. two plugs (4 connections), earth wire, and a wire to a wire from the somewhere, (easy anyway). and thats it!

:scared

I am really begining to wonder if this bike does'nt run better low down with the std ecu and lambda sensor? does anyone know the parameters where the the std ecu is running closed loop? i.e on the lambda senosr? it would be running closed loop something like: under 15% throttle and under 6000rpm. You could then run std low down, put zero's in the PCV map, and run the PCV and autotune to suit your exhaust where it matters

Bike we tested was in closed loop up to 18% and up to 5750rpm

Bike we tested was in closed loop up to 18% and up to 5750rpm Thanks for that, it's just another option I guess, I still have to test my lambda sensor first though, odd though that the parameters you say are closed loop is where most people seem to be having a few issues?

I was dealing with a customer on a GSXR1000 today and he was having running issues with the Auto tune saying it kept maxing out the trim table down low. Come to fine out he still had the stock O2 sensor connected!!!

So can anyone confirm if it is possible to keep the standard O2 sensor connected if the PCV fuel trims are set to zero below 20% TPS and 6000rpm? Without affecting the open loop trims? I like mikef4uk's suggestion. Surely it is better to retain closed loop operation under the stock parameters if possible.

i have my oem o2 sensor connected still. don't know bout the stuff you quoted as it was done by a shop on the dyno. and it runs great!

That is definitely possible if desired. Keep the values in the PCV map at zero in this area and also make sure if you are using Auto tune to keep the values at zero in the Target AFR table also. Your bike will run at around 14.7:1 AFR when doing this in the closed loop area.

Thanks DynojetResearch. It is nice to know it can be done that way. There is some interesting and useful information in this thread. I like it :)

Map 22-006-002 is for this setup. Hi, you sent me a map for my R1 and it is running very rich. About 100 kms per tankful, and bellows black smoke when free reving! and below 6000 rpm it is rough. Bike has PC V - Two brothers slip ons, K&N Filter and is a european spec 2009 R1 - last Dyno run showed 177 hp max. Do you perhaps have a new map that you have done for this setup?

Guys, I just have one question (maybe 2) I havent brought a PC V yet but am thinking about it - I just have standard Akra slip ons, no other mods. Q: is it worth it? (I will have it dyno'd anyway for a custom map if I do so not to worried about some of the map issues) and second: What sort of performance gains on average have you genuinely seen? I have no running issues with my bike at present.

Guys, I just have one question (maybe 2) I havent brought a PC V yet but am thinking about it - I just have standard Akra slip ons, no other mods. Q: is it worth it? (I will have it dyno'd anyway for a custom map if I do so not to worried about some of the map issues) and second: What sort of performance gains on average have you genuinely seen? I have no running issues with my bike at present. I have a Graves half system and when I added the PC5 mapped by Graves my avg MPG went up 4 MPG!!!:boobies

Hi, you sent me a map for my R1 and it is running very rich. About 100 kms per tankful, and bellows black smoke when free reving! and below 6000 rpm it is rough. Bike has PC V - Two brothers slip ons, K&N Filter and is a european spec 2009 R1 - last Dyno run showed 177 hp max. Do you perhaps have a new map that you have done for this setup? The map I suggested was for a US spec bike which could explain the issues. Please try either 22-006-005 or 22-006-006. These maps are much leaner than the map I suggested.

The map I suggested was for a US spec bike which could explain the issues. Please try either 22-006-005 or 22-006-006. These maps are much leaner than the map I suggested. My bike is running well with the UK map and PCV/AT, (bike has akra cat bypass/slip ons with 'race system' inserts which are much larger) what is noticeable is the AT has put a lot of minus corrections in the fuel table even with th target set at 13.-1.

The map I suggested was for a US spec bike which could explain the issues. Please try either 22-006-005 or 22-006-006. These maps are much leaner than the map I suggested. Thanks for the quick response. I will try these maps and let you know.

Thanks for the quick response. I will try these maps and let you know. Hi, I loaded the 22-006-005 map as you suggested and it has made a big difference. It is still not right, but definitely running leaner and more responsive in the lower rev range. I will also try the 22-006-006 map after I have put on some miles with the 22-006-005 to compare. Do you think it is worth the cost to get an Autotune?

Hi, I loaded the 22-006-005 map as you suggested and it has made a big difference. It is still not right, but definitely running leaner and more responsive in the lower rev range. I will also try the 22-006-006 map after I have put on some miles with the 22-006-005 to compare. Do you think it is worth the cost to get an Autotune? The best fix so far for me has been zeroing out the closed loop area, putting the PCV in advanced gear mode, and copying the map provided by dynojet for the low end in gears 2-6. See the discussion here... http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273144&page=4

The best fix so far for me has been zeroing out the closed loop area, putting the PCV in advanced gear mode, and copying the map provided by dynojet for the low end in gears 2-6. See the discussion here... http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273144&page=4 Thanks slider996 I will certainly look at this

Hi guys Have just recieved my two brothers carbon slip ons and was wondering if anybody else has tried these cans and what your thoughts are.Am thinkinf of getting a power comamder to go with the cans and to try and erradicate the shocking bottom end throtle response. Your thoughts would be appreciated P.S anybody got a map for the twobrothers cans i could try Cheers Brian I have the same cans and the power commander. It did smooth out the throttle response a little but didnt do shit for the bottom end. You might think about getting your bike tuned after. Try shifting your D-mode down to B and see what happens helped me out at slow speeds.