Why is it recommended that you start your engine and let it warm up for a few minutes before you change it? Is there any real reason behind this?

it blends it harmful particals that is flushed out during draining the oil...not so needed but it is the right way to change oil.....

It will remove more sludge and crap in your engine when it is up to operating temperature.

ohhhh ok, gotcha :thumbup. makes sense lol. thanks to both of yall for your responses!

ohhhh ok, gotcha :thumbup. makes sense lol. thanks to both of yall for your responses!

NP:)

in Army Reserve we used to run our boats for an hour for getting an oil sample....then sent off to a lab to analysists of fuel and carbon deposits ...gives a good paper trail on the way the diesele motors were running.....

Ooooohhh, good thread!

I can see that this one will get interesting!

There are two schools of thought on this:

The first school (and probably more popular one) is that you should warm the oil to facilitate its draining, so that more comes out.

The second school of thought says that you shouldn't warm the oil, because any contaminants not picked up by the oil filter are in the bottom of the oil pan (where they will pass through the drain when you open it), and cranking the engine would just stir up all the contaminants.

However, the "warm the engine up" people claim that any contaminants that are stirred up when you start the engine and warm the oil will be held in suspension by the oil, and will therefore pass out of the pan with the old oil.

In my opinion, if it's relatively warm outside (say, over 75*F), there's no need to warm it, as the oil is going to flow very easily. However, if the oil is cold, I would probably warm it.

However, I always warm mine, because I use Fiveoh's method to get as much of the old oil out as possible.

Ooooohhh, good thread!

I can see that this one will get interesting!

There are two schools of thought on this:

The first school (and probably more popular one) is that you should warm the oil to facilitate its draining, so that more comes out.

The second school of thought says that you shouldn't warm the oil, because any contaminants not picked up by the oil filter are in the bottom of the oil pan (where they will pass through the drain when you open it), and cranking the engine would just stir up all the contaminants.

However, the "warm the engine up" people claim that any contaminants that are stirred up when you start the engine and warm the oil will be held in suspension by the oil, and will therefore pass out of the pan with the old oil.

In my opinion, if it's relatively warm outside (say, over 75*F), there's no need to warm it, as the oil is going to flow very easily. However, if the oil is cold, I would probably warm it.

However, I always warm mine, because I use Fiveoh's method to get as much of the old oil out as possible.

on a side note, in fiveohs thread there was debate about getting the 07's to not fire when pumping the old oil out, you have a 07 right?
do you mind telling me what you do excatly?

on a side note, in fiveohs thread there was debate about getting the 07's to not fire when pumping the old oil out, you have a 07 right?
do you mind telling me what you do excatly?

Disabling the ignition switch and then draining the oil and cranking the engine would be moronic! Absolutely no engine oil and then turning it over would be engine suicide.
scott

yer well, im in two minds about it. a lot of people do, do it.
iv done it once before on my old harley, just pull the plug leads off. it does remove a lot of old oil.
im not sure if its a good thing or not, seen as its a bit harder to stop the engine firing on the r1 i probley wont bother.

yer well, im in two minds about it. a lot of people do, do it.
iv done it once before on my old harley, just pull the plug leads off. it does remove a lot of old oil.
im not sure if its a good thing or not, seen as its a bit harder to stop the engine firing on the r1 i probley wont bother.

There is a method to keep the engine from firing while turning it over with the starter. Here's the thread, http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145500&highlight=Changing+your+oil+five0+style. It's a great way to get all of the old oil out and you don't have to pull any wires off.

Disabling the ignition switch and then draining the oil and cranking the engine would be moronic! Absolutely no engine oil and then turning it over would be engine suicide.
scott

It's not engine suicide. You don't actually start the engine, and there's never a load on it. A lot of guys on the forum have used FiveOh's method, since way back in '05. Some of them are competent motorcycle mechanics. I haven't read of anyone damaging an engine doing it.

Disabling the ignition switch and then draining the oil and cranking the engine would be moronic! Absolutely no engine oil and then turning it over would be engine suicide.
scott

See Below..

It's not engine suicide. You don't actually start the engine, and there's never a load on it. A lot of guys on the forum have used FiveOh's method, since way back in '05. Some of them are competent motorcycle mechanics. I haven't read of anyone damaging an engine doing it.

Absolutely correct.... As long as you don't fire the engine, there is No Load being placed on the rotating assembly.

I would recommend not firing once the new oil is in and cranking to Prime the system though.

As far as draining.... I change after a Good ride when the engine is on it's cool down...

NOT because of contaminants... Tests have shown that the amount of contamnants that remain in an engine are virtually the same warmed or not.

So, since I found that out, I usually have changed cold or just warm to increase flow. This too has changed however.

I sent in an Oil Sample from my air-cooled bike that I had taken on a long ride the night before I changed and sampled... Analysis came back with water in the oil... Called them and proceeded to tell them their test was wrong and they needed to re-run it...Air-Cooled, no water....

Egg on my face here after doing this for 35 years..

Condensation from the engine cooling was enough for the GC to pick up.

So... Do not just warm the bike... good hour ride to cook off the moisture...

Bob

It's not engine suicide. You don't actually start the engine, and there's never a load on it. A lot of guys on the forum have used FiveOh's method, since way back in '05. Some of them are competent motorcycle mechanics. I haven't read of anyone damaging an engine doing it.

Im not only a moto mech I am a very competent racer, and yes there is a load on the motor. Why do you think cold starting is the very highest wear point cause the oil in the pan and not in a thin film protecting rod/main bearings. If you take this rediculous five oh bull and put it into use you WILL destroy your motor PERIOD.

Im not only a moto mech I am a very competent racer, and yes there is a load on the motor. Why do you think cold starting is the very highest wear point cause the oil in the pan and not in a thin film protecting rod/main bearings. If you take this rediculous five oh bull and put it into use you WILL destroy your motor PERIOD.

Read the thread above very carefully. Using FiveOh's method, you are not STARTING the engine. You're only turning it over briefly. It is not dry inside the engine. Dump some oil on your hand and see how difficult it is to get it off. The same thing is inside your engine even after you've drained the oil. I would never start it without oil. The purpose of turning it over is to get the last of the dirty oil out of the engine prior to adding new oil.

I'm not a mechanic, but I trust the guys who've been doing this for at least 4 years, and many of them are. You, as a mechanic, are obviously smarter than I am about the engine, but I trust the other guys on the forum who are also smarter than me. If you want to debate it with someone, go to the thread quoted above and have fun. I'm out of it for now.

Here we go....:corn

Im not only a moto mech I am a very competent racer, and yes there is a load on the motor. Why do you think cold starting is the very highest wear point cause the oil in the pan and not in a thin film protecting rod/main bearings. If you take this rediculous five oh bull and put it into use you WILL destroy your motor PERIOD.

There is no load if there is no fire.

Cold start wear is because the oil has ran off the cylinders while the engine was sitting. Nothing to do with load on the journals.

Which is also a good reason to use a PAO based oil w/Esters. The Esters Polarize the oil so it clings to the metal surface there-by helping cold start oil starvation.

Bob

Im not only a moto mech I am a very competent racer, and yes there is a load on the motor. Why do you think cold starting is the very highest wear point cause the oil in the pan and not in a thin film protecting rod/main bearings. If you take this rediculous five oh bull and put it into use you WILL destroy your motor PERIOD.

So, Mr. Competent, can you explain to all us morons how the loads under cranking are as high as the loads under running? We would all love to hear your expert recitation. :fact

And if you could back it up with a dyno chart or two that shows the substantial amount of HP that is surely present under cranking, that would go a long way towards sealing the deal that we're all idiots.

i see there is much debate, im leaning towards its ok to do. i have done it on older bikes(dirt) and seemed ok. i think another important thing is, like bob said if you are guna pump the oil out this way you should use the same way to pump it back in around the motor. i just wish it was a bit easyer like the old dirt bike, hold the stop button and kick it over. or pull the plug leads.
anybody with a 07 wana tell me exactly what they do to disable firing?
im not to good with the control panel and all the functions.
and like a smart cookie i will try it with the oil in just in case.
thanks.

i see there is much debate, im leaning towards its ok to do. i have done it on older bikes(dirt) and seemed ok. i think another important thing is, like bob said if you are guna pump the oil out this way you should use the same way to pump it back in around the motor. i just wish it was a bit easyer like the old dirt bike, hold the stop button and kick it over. or pull the plug leads.
anybody with a 07 wana tell me exactly what they do to disable firing?
im not to good with the control panel and all the functions.
and like a smart cookie i will try it with the oil in just in case.
thanks.

Read the Five-Oh thread - instructions for the 07-08 model are all there...that's where I found out how to do mine -

BTW, there's actually no debate on it...just one smart-alec who came in, didn't read all the information on Five-oh's thread, and started dishing out criticism without knowing WTH he was talking about...

Geez...kids these days...:lol

Read the Five-Oh thread - instructions for the 07-08 model are all there...that's where I found out how to do mine -

BTW, there's actually no debate on it...just one smart-alec who came in, didn't read all the information on Five-oh's thread, and started dishing out criticism without knowing WTH he was talking about...

Geez...kids these days...:lol

AGREED !!!

Bob

The FiveOh thread, http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145500&highlight=Changing+your+oil+five0+style.

As stated above in post #11.

:lol

Deja vu!

The reason start-up is a higher wear situation is because the engine fires before oil pressure is built, not because the engine is turning over on only an oil film.

BTW you keep talking about what a hot shot racer you are, so why don't you start a thread and back all that talk up?

:lol

Deja vu!

The reason start-up is a higher wear situation is because the engine fires before oil pressure is built, not because the engine is turning over on only an oil film.

BTW you keep talking about what a hot shot racer you are, so why don't you start a thread and back all that talk up?

Never read your oil change thread...but seems you are correct sir about the load on an engine during start-up ..IMO...good thread and good posts....