Trying to change my rear rotor.

So far I have broken off 2 brand new bits inside the hex bolts. Any secrets to getting these off? Man they torque them tight!!!

I'd say take a small torch to the bolts to "melt" the loctite.

Go to Sears and buy a Craftsman Torx socket, any Craftsman hand tool has a lifetime warranty.

Next, spray some PB Blaster/WD40 on the bolts or heat them up as mentioned above.

Take your time with them, I ended up stripping one of them on my stock wheels after breaking 2 bits.

The rotor bolts have loctite from HELL on them. When I swapped mine out for some TI bolts, I used a Craftsman torx bit with a breaker bar. The Craftsman torx bit that I used ended up getting twisted a little bit so I when to the local Sears to get a new one. LOL

I think the torx bit was either a T40 or T45? I don't recall, it's been a while. Just go nice and slow when your trying to loosen the bolts. The loctite will "break" and you'll be able to get the bolt out. Even after the loctite breaks, the bolt will still come out slowly.

-Mike

when I painted my rims I thought it would be easy. So save your self and get some new bolts first they arent that expensive from the stealership. An impact driver is what I used and a breaker bar and whatever works. Take your time Id soak them if I had to do it over again.

u know what ...get this "racing multi-spray " from Liquimoly.
I swear by it because i used this while taking out the smog crap off the 03 , it was a breeze when it was not supposed to be easy, it really helps loosen bolts/nuts whatever

the leverage of a good breaker bar and a socket type hex has always made it simple for me. no heat, no chemicals

the leverage of a good breaker bar and a socket type hex has always made it simple for me. no heat, no chemicals

+1

Just go nice and slow with the breaker bar and you'll be ok. Your socket wrench won't have enough leverage to get those suckers off unless you're Mr. Strongman.

pentrating fluid overnight, if that doesn't work try heat.

if are getting new bolts , imho its better to get earlier R1 bolts ,they were allen , not torx ,and they are the same size (for the front anyway)
torx are fragile , dont know why yamaha switched to those stupid bolts.

After warming them up, hit the ratchet handle with a hammer. You need an impact force to break them loose.

Thanks guys...

I used a socket HEX. Where do I spray the wd40? I don't see how that will get in there?

whats special about the craftsman Hex?

Thanks guys...

I used a socket HEX. Where do I spray the wd40? I don't see how that will get in there?

whats special about the craftsman Hex?

Spray it in your eyes! ;)
(really though, around the bolt head, it will get in there)

Craftsman hand tools have a LIFETIME warranty, if you break it then take it back for a new one.

Just broke #3...lol

Sprayed it now going to get torch and craftsman. I just don't get the torque specs on these. UNREAL!

are you turning the bolts the right direction?

pick up a pipe for your ratchet or a breaker bar when you go back (for the leverage), and you won't have any issues with rear (or front) rotor bolts

are you turning the bolts the right direction?

LOL YES!!!

They are seized. I broke off 2 more hex sockets and now they are starting to strip. I'm pissed! I could understand if this was a 1998 bike but its 6 months old!

tap them with a hammer before you loosen, if that doesn't work you'll have to heat. A propane torch should do the trick.

Slow down and try not to strip anything. Once you strip the head of the bolt, you'll be really in for some major "fun" getting that sucker out.

Slow down and try not to strip anything. Once you strip the head of the bolt, you'll be really in for some major "fun" getting that sucker out.

+1

http://zo-d.com/stuff/tools/Milwaukee_0234-6_Drill_motor.jpg

Just went and got a breaker bar and new bit. One pull and the 6th bit blew apart.

I obviously am not meant to change this rotor today.

Apparently you didn't listen to all the suggestions...

Many felt the breaker bar would solve my issue. Figured I would give that a shot first.

Obviously I need to get a torch...Tomorrows fun!

Yeh I just had to order a rear wheel/tire and while swapping my rear rotor I broke only one bit, the second one bent pretty badly but I was still able to get them loose. That red loctite is on there a bit too heavy. A torch would have been good but I didn't have one and well, I got it done. I used the Powerbuilt T40 torx bit drivers with a 3/8" ratchet. I couldn't find an impact Torx anywhere but I was going to buy one, they are the solid black metal ones, not the chrome with black bit. Those will work for sure, just cost a bunch. When I re-installed them I used blue loctite and only put one little dab on there.

Mine was seized. Had to take it to a machinist to drill out 3 bolts...He said he had NEVER seen so much loctite and said it was ridiculous.

I was about to say that the Hi-strength loctite is the variety that requires heat to break the bond when removing the bolts... Obviously, the trick is to try and localize the torch/heat to just the bolthead when applying it...

five-o gave you the answer, ive removed a lot of them with no issues. put the torx bit in an impact driver and smack the hell out of it with a hammer like three times, they will come out easy

you need the shock of the impact to brake loose the loctite

Hello All,

I've been getting really useful information here and finally decided to register! :)

I had allso insane problems with the rotor bolts. Finally, after three broken tools i got them out. I have 2007 R1 and they allso have this red loctite on them :( I was wondering what kind of stuff should use when i bolt the new rotor back? I have Würth loctite which is Medium i think?(color is green). Will that do the job or do i need something stronger, like the oem loctite was?




Greets from Finland :)

Yoy guys know what i did?
I used a grinder and turn the bolts into screws, i then used a heavy duty drill and they came off. Those things were extremely tight and the allen keys just dont do it.