Just wanted to say that I switched to AMSOIL last week, and after a few rides I got to say that I'm a big fan. I was running Royal Purple, but since the change the lil' tick quieted down a tad and the shift into 2nd gear (and from 2nd to 1st) is much smoother. It's been cooler outside so I haven't been able to tell if it's running cooler like others say, but overall I'm happy. I got the oil at cost so the price wasn't too bad... Just wanted to share my experience

Wow, another one for the oil troll to add to the conspiracy. :butt On a more serious note, Amsoil is the sh!t! Glad you like it, your bike will too.

I love their oil, it is he only oil I use...

Queuing r1slapper . . .

Queuing r1slapper . . .

Oh just great :shake, that was not the intention of my post... I just hope he's on vacation and this post gets buried under others by the time he returns

Oh just great :shake, that was not the intention of my post... I just hope he's on vacation and this post gets buried under others by the time he returns

:lol see what you did?

Queuing r1slapper . . .

he'll be here after he finishes changing out his oil to Amsoil...stay tuned http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/bigthumb.gif

I was gonna start my own thread but I guess I'll just partake in this one. I was running the Yamalube Performance Full Synthetic 15W-50 at nearly $13/qt and I thought it was good, after all it was recommended by Yamaha themselves and it's synthetic. After running it for a season of riding, approx. 2500 miles, I changed to Amsoil full synthetic 10W-40. I never thought I would use an oil and be able to feel a difference from one to another. The engine runs cooler but what I like most is the extremely smooth shifting. With the Yamalube I was getting countless false-neutrals. I know the Amsoil is good stuff but here's my question, is the Amsoil really that good or is the Yamalube 15W-50 Full-Syn really that bad? Lol... Carry on!

In one of the oil threads a while back the usual argument took place snake oil VS reality. I asked if anyone has actually done any dyno tests with their normal oil and then with the new oil. Has anyone done this? I have heard to many mixed opinions on oils it would be nice to see some actual quantitative results on Amsoil or other "superlubes" I just switched to Motul Ester oil which seems to be very like the Silkolene I used years ago and would like to know if anyone has come up with numbers on the diff in oils as far as HP increases, milage changes etc.

I am a Nissan Tech. The 370Z has a complex valve timing actuation assembly that involves a couple rocker shafts with very tight bearing surface clearances. Not using ester oil can result in these surfaces rubbing and making noise so there obviously is a very real friction reducing property in ester oil. I can't speak on how this oil effects the other parts like the clutch etc in a bike but it would seem as far as basic friction reduction it would beat normal synth and mineral oil. Does anyone have any numbers on this?

In one of the oil threads a while back the usual argument took place snake oil VS reality. I asked if anyone has actually done any dyno tests with their normal oil and then with the new oil. Has anyone done this? I have heard to many mixed opinions on oils it would be nice to see some actual quantitative results on Amsoil or other "superlubes" I just switched to Motul Ester oil which seems to be very like the Silkolene I used years ago and would like to know if anyone has come up with numbers on the diff in oils as far as HP increases, milage changes etc.

I am a Nissan Tech. The 370Z has a complex valve timing actuation assembly that involves a couple rocker shafts with very tight bearing surface clearances. Not using ester oil can result in these surfaces rubbing and making noise so there obviously is a very real friction reducing property in ester oil. I can't speak on how this oil effects the other parts like the clutch etc in a bike but it would seem as far as basic friction reduction it would beat normal synth and mineral oil. Does anyone have any numbers on this?

This was posted in another thread. I don't know if this will answer the question you are asking, but this site has some info (backed up by tests actually) :fact

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0310_oil/index.html

I know the Amsoil is good stuff but here's my question, is the Amsoil really that good or is the Yamalube 15W-50 Full-Syn really that bad? Lol... Carry on!

AMSOIL IS that good or I would sell something else. And it is less expensive than the Yamalube.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

I have to say that I know the nature of motor oil and have always thought most of these were magic bean oil. I read the sport rider article on these oils and was impressed. They laid out a very clear by the numbers comparo on the oils available while covering the factors involved and which oil offered what. I have no doubt Amsoil is an excellent oil as are some others like the one I am using now. It seems from the info provided that most of the high grade oils are all a perfect choice and most users would be happy with any of them. It is my thought that some of these offer protection that is really not a concern if you change your oil at standard intervals. Honestly I think for the majority of users the super protection is a non issue but hey if it costs about the same why wouldnt you get the best possible. I may not use Amsoil but I have no doubt if you did you would not be be settling for a lesser product. Here are my thoughts. If you are not racing most any of the high end oils provides easily enough protection for you. If you can get an oil that far surpasses your needs for the same price as any normal oil why not go for it? I think Motul and amsoil are about equal as far as what they offer. It seems to me that you really cant go wrong with most of the higher grade offerings. If anyone wants to use Amsoil I think it is an great choice for the price. Is it the only choice? NO, but you wont be cheating ourself by using it.

The one thing I do not agree with is the idea some people have that if they use oil X they can go far longer between oil changes. Some oils provide aspects that let them provide protection longer but I still think this is a bad way of thinking. An extra oil change a year or two is a small expense compared to a $12K machine. No matter what oil you use change your oil every 3500 miles under normal use or sooner and never have to worry about if your oil is up to it.

My question. I know for a fact Ester oil provides a level of friction protection that other oil does not. Nissan no has a valve train system that uses a shaft with tolerances so tight any oil other then ester oil can result in the shaft and housing rubbing any making noise. I would seem that ester oil would be superior (at least in the area of friction fighting) to any natural of synthetic oil other then ester based. This may not really be a factor in an engine that dose not require ester oil but as I said b4 hey if oil X does better for the same price (yeah I know ester oil is NOT the same price) why not use it.

The one thing I do not agree with is the idea some people have that if they use oil X they can go far longer between oil changes. Some oils provide aspects that let them provide protection longer but I still think this is a bad way of thinking. An extra oil change a year or two is a small expense compared to a $12K machine. No matter what oil you use change your oil every 3500 miles under normal use or sooner and never have to worry about if your oil is up to it.

Then we have nothing to argue over like which oils are best :dundun:. I do believe, as you stated, that some certain oils will let you go longer between changes if you let them. Like my 04 F150 5.4 SCrew, I've always ran MotorCraft 5w-20 blend in it from the day I bought it new in Oct of '03. Being raised around the automotive business it is relatively easy for me to get oil changes done whenever I want for free labor, thus I like to get it changed around every 3000-3500 miles. Occasionally, like this past time, I let it go 5000 because we're down to one vehicle which doubles the miles driven on it between my wife and I. I also let it go 5000 because probably 1000-1500 miles of that 5000 was on the interstate. If I ran conventional oil in my truck there's no way possible I'd even consider going over 3000 no matter what the circumstances were. It's about to click over 120k and still runs smooth as ever.

My question. I know for a fact Ester oil provides a level of friction protection that other oil does not. Nissan no has a valve train system that uses a shaft with tolerances so tight any oil other then ester oil can result in the shaft and housing rubbing any making noise. I would seem that ester oil would be superior (at least in the area of friction fighting) to any natural of synthetic oil other then ester based. This may not really be a factor in an engine that dose not require ester oil but as I said b4 hey if oil X does better for the same price (yeah I know ester oil is NOT the same price) why not use it.

Because you have people in this world that think that just the fact that you change oil is good enough. I've seen people come into AutoZone, Advance, and CarQuest and specifically ask for "the cheapest oil you have". That is why people don't use the "better" oils. Most auto owners are uneducated about these subjects and think oil is oil when the reality is, like the Nissan you described and the Ford diesels along with most newer engines, it's a matter of an engine's life or death. Kind of a crazy way to put it but it's the truth. Cheaper is rarely ever better especially when it comes to oil.

thank you amsoil guys... i changed my oil in my truck to your product... so far i like it... but depending on avg mpg i get will determine weather i stay with you or go back to mobil1... so far i am content, cept the price, but i do like it coming to my door

thank you amsoil guys... i changed my oil in my truck to your product... so far i like it... but depending on avg mpg i get will determine weather i stay with you or go back to mobil1... so far i am content, cept the price, but i do like it coming to my door

But remember, the only Mobil 1 that is a PAO Synthetic is the Extended Performance and it is only 30%.

You have to look at cost per mile, not cost up front. M-1 EP is a very good oil so we will see what your findings are.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

Figured i would just add to this tread..

Thanks Bob! got my oil in two days!! In just 100 miles i noticed smoother shifting and it looks to be running cooler too. Only issue i had, was my damn dealer gave me the wrong oil filter. I didn't double check it until i pulled the old one out.

I will say i jumped on the amsoil train about 6 years ago after i ran out of gas at a harescramble. A friend of mine was running the 2stroke oil before domanator came out. Anyway the first 10 minutes of my lap i could feel my bike running stronger and more crisp. Thats when i made the switch, and to my suprise that was just the start. When i went to do the top end, i could see where the amsoil started cleaning the the cabon off of the piston. I believe the next season is when domanator 2 cycle came out. I ran that a whole season and when i went to tear it down again, I was in shock the top end still looked just rebuild. I even had close to the same ring gap as where i started from.

Great oil! and thumps up to the seller. Thank you!

Figured i would just add to this tread..

Thanks Bob! got my oil in two days!! In just 100 miles i noticed smoother shifting and it looks to be running cooler too. Only issue i had, was my damn dealer gave me the wrong oil filter. I didn't double check it until i pulled the old one out.

I will say i jumped on the amsoil train about 6 years ago after i ran out of gas at a harescramble. A friend of mine was running the 2stroke oil before domanator came out. Anyway the first 10 minutes of my lap i could feel my bike running stronger and more crisp. Thats when i made the switch, and to my suprise that was just the start. When i went to do the top end, i could see where the amsoil started cleaning the the cabon off of the piston. I believe the next season is when domanator 2 cycle came out. I ran that a whole season and when i went to tear it down again, I was in shock the top end still looked just rebuild. I even had close to the same ring gap as where i started from.

Great oil! and thumps up to the seller. Thank you!

Thank You !

Customers such as yourself make it all worth while !

Don't forget, We sell the complete line of AMSOIL Products for everything from String Trimmers to Semis and Marine products as well.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

Thank You !

Customers such as yourself make it all worth while !

Don't forget, We sell the complete line of AMSOIL Products for everything from String Trimmers to Semis and Marine products as well.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

are your air filters reusable?

Although we do not have them for an R-1, our air filters are rated at 4 years, 100,000 miles and are cleaned with LIGHT compressed air or a light household vacuum.

A lot easier than washing a filter, waiting 3 days for it to dry and then try to figure out if you used the proper amount of oil, too much oil or not enough oil.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

Although we do not have them for an R-1, our air filters are rated at 4 years, 100,000 miles and are cleaned with LIGHT compressed air or a light household vacuum.

A lot easier than washing a filter, waiting 3 days for it to dry and then try to figure out if you used the proper amount of oil, too much oil or not enough oil.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

how about for a 08 fxdc? also whats your 20w50 syn run?

i see your online amsoil man. can i get a quote?

thats ridiculous. theres no way i can justify those prices

I remember reading on here a while back that oil should be changed asap after it has been stored. I would change the oil, but usually after riding for a hundred miles or so(after storage). The guy I buy Amsoil from said that even if the bike has been stored, the oil does not have to be changed if you're running Amsoil.
My bike was recently stored for 7-8 months and I changed oil after about 300 miles, but used Repsol Racing oil because I couldn't get a hold of Amsoil in the San Diego area. Right now, I've got a little less than 500 miles on the Repsol oil and ready to switch back to Amsoil.... the Repsol was temporary until I got a hold of some Amsoil. Amsoil is da sh*t. The

So far i am very pleased with Amsoil! I ran the Yamalube Syn and ive ran the mobil they both would turn dark after about 600 or so miles. The Amsoil seems to hold up better and i do notice smoother shifting! Ill be running this stuff from now on. Glad my dealer finally became a Amsoil dealer ive been interested for a few years.

thats ridiculous. theres no way i can justify those prices

You can if you use cost per mile and better overall performance.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

I remember reading on here a while back that oil should be changed asap after it has been stored. I would change the oil, but usually after riding for a hundred miles or so(after storage). The guy I buy Amsoil from said that even if the bike has been stored, the oil does not have to be changed if you're running Amsoil.
My bike was recently stored for 7-8 months and I changed oil after about 300 miles, but used Repsol Racing oil because I couldn't get a hold of Amsoil in the San Diego area. Right now, I've got a little less than 500 miles on the Repsol oil and ready to switch back to Amsoil.... the Repsol was temporary until I got a hold of some Amsoil. Amsoil is da sh*t. The

Actually, most oils should be changed BEFORE storage and, by the book, should be changed again after the storage period.

AMSOIL is good up to 2 times the OEM Mileage Interval or one year as long as you use the AMSOIL EA Filter, INCLUDING being able to be stored on.

AMSOIL is as close as your telephone by calling 1-877-356-6099

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob