How to change oil

Can someone give me a quick 1,2,3 on how to change the oil on my 02 R1. I have the oil and the filter just need a little step by step. Thanks in advance.

Remove the lower cowl ,drain plug is on bottom of engine on left side, you'll see the filter behind headers. You'll need a really small filter wrench. 3.5 qt with filter change.

Run the engine for about 5 to minutes. Cool of for about 5 minutes. Remove cowling, drain oil from bottom, I don't know what size nut you need, headers still might be a little warm so watch it. And for the filter, get a gasket thingy that fits it unless you want to stab it with a screw driver and try turning it that way, trust me much easier with that gasket filter thing. Use some used oil on the oil filter, screw it in. To put filter back on I just use hand tighten for it, ge it nice and snug. For the bottom I like to tilt the bike a bit to get all the excess oil out. Replace plug, pour oil, I think its about 3.8 quarts, don't pour too much cause its a pain to try and get the excess out. Run bike for a few minutes the turn off and straighten bike and look at window and see if thats all you need. Replace fairings and ride

Thanks guys, all went well. I used the screw driver method and I was a little messy with the oil in the filter but it worked. Now more $50-$75 at the dealer.

ROFL, you paid a dealer to change your oil?

Originally posted by VeilSideR1 ROFL, you paid a dealer to change your oil? Yeah, but never again.

the only real points are 1) you should change the drain plug washer every now and again, perhaps every 2nd change 2) the filters should be done up hand tight 3) the slip on filter wrenches are excelent, fit virtually all modern bikes and only cost about 5 £/$ 4) the only way to remove a filter that has been installed by a gorilla with a filter wrench and a foot long bar is a screwdriver, hammer through the core so it comes out the far side (I had to virtually stand on my R6 one after a dealer service!...seriously!)

Originally posted by R1Jim the only real points are 1) you should change the drain plug washer every now and again, perhaps every 2nd change 2) the filters should be done up hand tight 3) the slip on filter wrenches are excelent, fit virtually all modern bikes and only cost about 5 £/$ 4) the only way to remove a filter that has been installed by a gorilla with a filter wrench and a foot long bar is a screwdriver, hammer through the core so it comes out the far side (I had to virtually stand on my R6 one after a dealer service!...seriously!) R1JIM And i thought it was only me:p Just changed the oil and filter on my 2001 and my mates 2002 and had shit loads of trouble getting the filter off them :mad: Both done by a dealer :machinegu

It is amazing how tight some of these muppets will make things, it even came out of the shop with an overtightened chain!

My bike didn't come with a washer on the oil drain bolt :eek:

K & N has a new oil filter out, it has a hex head nut moulded into the cover-tightens with a wrench, remove it with a wrench. I just put one on my bike, it was really easy.........

Originally posted by R1Fanatic My bike didn't come with a washer on the oil drain bolt :eek: eek...fit one then. Make sure though, they have a habit of getting squashed and seriously stuck to the plug. I get them off by knocking a thin (watch type size) screwdriver between the plug and washer. They are copper squash jobs.

If you don't have a filter wrench, a big pair of channel locks works great! screwdriver will work too....but not nearly as easy..:cool:

Well, i don't know what you guys do with screw drivers, sounds messy the slip on filter wrenches are excelent, fit virtually all modern bikes and only cost about 5 £/$ 4) the only way to remove a filter that has been installed by a gorilla with a filter wrench and a foot long bar is a screwdriver, hammer through the core so it comes out the far side (I had to virtually stand on my R6 one after a dealer service!...seriously!) Just use a filter wrench... small one.. should come out as easy as butter on a toast! Make sure the insulation rubber from the old filter comes out, or else if you put the new filter in it may pop out when your riding. Also when you start the engine the first time keep it at low RPM's, i've seen guy rev the shit out of a bike with brand new oil in it, and saw their gaskets blow!.. pretty funny actually... but if you want to keep the oil change under $12 don't DO IT! ED

I just changed my oil Friday past and the last Muppet ( ME ) put the dang filter on with his new handy dandy filter wrench. Well long story short I put that bastid on so tight that when I went to take it off it deformed the handy dandy filter wrench and made it smooth. Then after poking through with a screwdriver I damn near ripped it in half gettin it off. Took more than 30 min on the filter alone. I was skerd as hell that I'd completely rip it and have to get it to a shop.

Those dam oil filters!

Just noticed that no one made sure that LeMarc put in motorcycle oil. There's different types, but all I know is that you can't use the same oil you put in your car because it breaks down too quickly to adequately lube the transmission. Of course, I could also use some more education in this department!

DUDES....IF YOU GO TO YOUR LOCAL AUTO PARTS STORE, THEY HAVE A FILTER WRENCH THAT LOOKS LIKE A CUP WITH 3/8 SOCKET HOLE IN IT. THE CUP FITS OVER THE END OF THE FILTER AND YOU USE 5" RATCHET EXTENSION AND RATCHET TO TURN THE CUP ON THE FILTER......SUUUUUUPER EASY AND IT COST'S ABOUT 5 BUCKS.

I cant believe anyone would pay to have this done. I just changed mine for the first time ever on a motorcycle and it took me all of about 30 mins and that included totally cleaning and waxing the lower fairing.

Originally posted by Catalyst[xpd8] Well, i don't know what you guys do with screw drivers, sounds messy Just use a filter wrench... small one.. should come out as easy as butter on a toast! ED Trust me on this one....it is possible for shops to do the filter up so tight with a filter wrench, that when it is time to remove, the filter can distorts and the filter wrench slips. In this case the only option is a screwdriver and a large boot! (as found out by soldis (or whatever the name was!))

When asking what kind of oil to use I deffinetely have my own oppinion but it seems to be a hot topin in the motorcycle world. The important thing is that if you don't use yamalube, go full synthetic so that there is no friction modifiers, these will destroy your wet clutch!

Originally posted by txaggie The important thing is that if you don't use yamalube, go full synthetic so that there is no friction modifiers, these will destroy your wet clutch! what a load of s**te...why would fully synth have any less friction modifiers than semi, or even dino oil. In fact the cheaper oils may have less. I think your bike shop is telling you porkies to sell pricy oil! The important thing is to use motorcycle oil and not car oil, bike oils have additives designed to work with wet clutches, car ones dont. The worst car oil you could use will be the fully synth, super trick one with lots of low friction additives, if you need to use car oil in an emergency, I would suggest el-cheapo dino oil as its less likely to muller your clutch plates.