Post your Drag Race - R1 Photos....!

I'll start the ball rolling with some drag racing R1 photos... The first set are just lowered and strapped of the www.tobefast.com bikes... They are progressing very nicely.....!

:cool:

:yesnod Stage 2: Extensions

Both the tobefast.com bikes are getting the same treatment... Here's another picture of the air shifter mount.. Stage 3 Mods: Air over Electric Auto shifter Yosh 3 map switch MPS Autoshift Ignition box

Funny thing is under that undertail is Air compressor Air tank bottle MPS autoshift module Yosh EMS Yosh EMS add-on box w/ 3 map switch oh yeah the nitrous bottle ....... that's stage 4.....lol...

Here is Brad's ride. aka... 60" PSB R1

Brad is it just me or is the motor-home doing a wheelie......

nothing special.. but here is me....with my old lid and old mid fairings....

cool pics spider. first time ive seen streetbikes setup as dragbikes. well besides the couple of busa's runnin around here, but there more for show than go.

Bikes look great Shane, thinking of naming mine, Considering (Wraith) or (Venom) what do you guys think?

Venom is cool....! We have squadrons set up around here and I am a member of the "R1-016" the Southeastern Venom Squadron..... I have a Spider on the windscreen and a purge valve for the nitrous just underneath that, we refer to the purge as spittin venom...!...lol.... Hey Slopok.... 60" PSB R1's bike is running under 8.90's on it's stage one setup.... FYI, that ain't just show.. :)

Here is my latest pictures from this weekend... My extensions go on this week but the nitrous is just about all done now...

spider....that bike is sick

Spider, I like Venom too, always liked the costume in the comic series. Your right the motor home was a little low in the back, didn't have the load levler on.

Here is the venom logo..... I can send you over a sticker of just the spider if you want one...

ceramic coat that badboy brad... it's got the go.. now finish the show :finger

I think it has been jet coated black now tidbit...

Last Saturday (6/7/03) was my first time drag racing on anything. Man I had a blast, I just need to work on my launches. I was at stock height and my best run was a 10.75. I'll scan the ticket and post it. Here are some pix. How you like the sneakers... lol

and another beating a GIXXER 1000. :p (He must have really screwed up cuz he was lower.)

Sweet pics, that black R1 is no sleeper I bet....:sneaky

Wed races

at no problem raceway, belle rose, louisiana

Originally posted by SpidermanSS Here is Brad's ride. aka... 60" PSB R1 that is WICKED!!! :eek: :rock

Originally posted by ninja-no-more at no problem raceway, belle rose, louisiana Hey ninja-no-more, what times did ya run?

Ok, so the first two aren't Yams, but I thought they were pretty trick :-) Tarlton Raceway, just outside Jo'burg, South Africa .... Charity day so you get to drag your mates as well .... Ricky Gadson was flown in to guest the day on one of the local dealers ZX12. Here's his ride:

Another from the pits ...... Locally built Turbo 'Busa:

Ok, last but not least ... My mate Muk on his '02 R1 ....... I would've posted some of me but I entrusted the camera to a friend with no photographic experience, hence pics the size of a pinhead !! Here's Muk anyway .... :-)

I am the fat ass in the far lane. The guy in the near lane was running 9.60's slammed, longer swingarm, and nitrous. He had a big mental advantage when I was staging and he purged the nitrous:confused: :eek: :cryin I tried, but launched a little too hard and the front end came up too much . I tapped the rear brake and he BLEW past me in the last 60-80 feet. Oh well it was fun:yesnod

saturdays drags.

more pictures

personal booking photo

Heres a pic of me on my 02 R1. Its strapped in the front and lowered in the rear. No mods except for a MIG dual can exhaust. The exhaust might even be hurting my performance. The best so far is a 1.679', 10.213, 134.82 in the 1/4. Hope to improve after some more runs. Might even drop the forks to get the front end to stay down better.

heres my mate at the drags in sydney australia... his best time was 10.80.............:machinegu :machinegu :machinegu

Originally posted by SpidermanSS I'll start the ball rolling with some drag racing R1 photos... The first set are just lowered and strapped of the www.tobefast.com bikes... They are progressing very nicely.....! Hey Spidermanss have you got any photos of whats used to lower the back of the bike?

here is mine (not in action) ready to go hit the track. been on the strip once and it was running 10.2 @137all day long with 6.8@110 1/8 mile. i got it how i want it and now want to trade it in on a new one. i put it in the for sale section or pm or e-mail me if anyone is interested. negotiable $$

Here's a couple of pics of my bike at the track. it's not just for show, it does go. 10.2 @ 137 so far. i'm working on my riding skills.

another

last one

Here's mine.. 10.19 at 139.8 so far. Wish I weighed 140 instead of 240 !

here's my junk...

:D

My latest...

:yesnod

:rock

Originally posted by SpidermanSS :yesnod Is Grave's sponsering you ?

Originally posted by bhartley Is Grave's sponsering you ? Yes they sponsor both of our bikes here at the shop. We have backing from McCoy's (of course lol), Graves and Braking....

The pictures aren't finished from last night but my buddy in his '02 R1 ran his personal best of 10.14 sec. Another friend ran an 11.12 sec on his '04 R6. I raced for the first time ever and eventaully got a '99 R6 down to a 12.001 (my goal was in the 11 sec).

i've never run mine down quater. what things should i be expecting if i decide too? like more grip than launch on normal road?? what rpms should i be looking at launching on?

Here is one for you.

Hey Bill H., let's see a video allready. I think that would probably help you find sponsors a bit easier. After all, a picture is only worth a thousand words. No picture can describe a turbo bike doing its burnout and launch!:rock

I wish I could run the video camera and race at the same time . I guess that is what happens when you are a one man team. Someday I will have a crew to help out . I hope.

thanks shane... that's one bad ass bike! I LOVE IT!

Thanks bro.... She'll be going up for sale very soon due to the 04's coming out.... Everytime I look at the bike and what it's got on it I start to regret it but developing and testing parts for the 04's will be fun... :)

From Yesterday http://www.prmotorcycle.com/Byron1sml.jpg The Other Side http://www.prmotorcycle.com/Byron2sml.jpg

mine

:thumbup

this one was from 2 years ago. now its back short wheelbase and for sale. gotta make room for 04 http://www.anythingcars.com/pics/track/opening_02/images/Brandons%20R11.jpg

Originally posted by 1longR1 this one was from 2 years ago. now its back short wheelbase and for sale. gotta make room for 04 http://www.anythingcars.com/pics/track/opening_02/images/thumbs/Brandons-R11_p.jpg What's you best times on your R1.. 1longR1?

its been while since i ran the bottle. straight motor short its a 9.90-10.0 bike. best i believe was 9.38... heck i cant remember, its been to long. i have been running a turbo busa in streetbike shootout class and just running the r1 in bracket class this year. i think the 04 im gonna make it a 60 in. nitrous bike and still run turbo busa in shootout class. heck i won last months early morning bracket race on the R1. we had runn 4rounds then got rained out and had to finish the next month. had .003 light, another.003, a .000(won me $100), and .032 in finals. the busa didnt fair well we had some clutch problems that have plagued us all year. www.txshootout.com. ihave missed the last race. getting rock in turbo is not good.

heres another pic on the same cold day. 15 inch over arm is a little overkill for 130 lb rider on street tire with nitrous.. dont ya think... aheavier rider maybe, but it takes slick to make it hook up with me on it.... know anyone that need a long arm??? http://www.anythingcars.com/pics/track/opening_02/images/Brandons%20R1.jpg

G day. In New Zealand we dont have much of bike drag racing. How do u prepair that bike for that kinda racing. What gets the best results

usually re gearing the bike 1 tooth down on coutershaft sprocket and lowering the bike or strapping the front end helps alot. the straps are cheap at www.schnitzracing.com i think like 25 bucks. the lowering links can be had there or at tobefast as well

Jeezus!!!!!! 15" WTF!! That is some wacky funny stuff! What kind of 60' did you turn with the arm? You must have had at least an additional 5-7 RWHP lost to the amount of chain needed for that arm. I saw in your signature you mentioned electric shifter. Is that like a Dale Walker type deal? Tell me more about it please.

New England Dragway.

yo pep-02r1 what times you run down the quarter......

heres a dumb ????? you guys running NOS have you done any engine work modified pistons our did you just bolt up stock Just curious.... TIA

Originally posted by slutty22 heres a dumb ????? you guys running NOS have you done any engine work modified pistons our did you just bolt up stock Just curious.... TIA A below a 50 shot on the stock engine is fairly safe, you just need to take out a little timing and gap the plugs down... Above that nitrous cut pistons and rods are the only way to go...

I started off with a 40 shot, then 60, then 80. I could not get traction with 80, so I went back to 60. All was completely stock with the 40 and 60 shots. With the 80 shot I pulled out 2.5 degrees of timing and ran some race fuel. I have probably emptied out 70 2 1/2 lb. bottles with absolutely no problems. I should mention that the spark plugs were change to one heat range colder as part of the installation. Regular compression and leak down tests netted the following: 220 psi compression and 3% leakage. Great results and well within the acceptable range. The R1 has the best crank Yamaha has ever made for a liter bike and although it appears the rods are not too strong, they will hold up just fine on the spray. Anything over 80, I would for sure invest in some rods and some valve springs. The standard OEM pistons are forged and do a great job. :thumbup

I use a 60 shot and have had no problems with the motor. i'm going to try an 80 shot when i get my head back from ape. hey forza, what kind of tire are you using on your bike? and is that the same tire you were having traction problems with when using an 80 shot? also, what is your best e.t. without the training wheels?

hmmmmm If NOS is use lets saty 60 or less. Is it ideal to stretch the swingarm or can you just leave it stock, Im thinking you would loop it if not extended.

It depends on what you want to do with the bike.. You can get a 2 dial progressive controller for abut $260 that will let you start the spray at a lower % and then increase overa period of time to make the hit less dramatic... If your not accustomed to it, I wouldn't do it from take off... You need to be above 6000 grand to activate it at start anyways... We have a dry nitrous kit that installs in 2-3 hours by itself and comes with 20 , 30 , and 40 shot nozzles for $369.00 ...... Hard to beat that.... For street play and occasional track, I'd go with a 40 shot progressive controlled dry nos kit setup.... The whole NOS kit with 2.5 bottle is $369 Controler (not needed unless you want to smooth the delivery) $239 Look on people's face when you race... > Priceless!:yesnod

I was using the 1st series M/T street tire when I was having traction problems. I then moved to the MCR2 which is great, but it has problems with splitting. Now, I am running on "training wheels" and have the 7" square M/T slick. Unless you are running a progressive controller, I would stick to your 60 shot. You won't be able to use the 80 shot as quick and it will probably end up raising your et. With the 6" over, I could squeeze 40 in first gear, 60 shot would start in 2nd gear. The 80, I'd have to wait until 3rd. The rule is the longer you can squeeze for, the faster you will go. Out of all 3, the 60 shot has worked best. Keep in mind, this is a straight shot with no progressive controller. When I get some more R1 money, Schitz makes a kick ass progressive controller that I plan on picking up and then try out the 80-100 shot. By the way, anyone who is thinking about N20, my strong advice is to run the wet kit. It takes more time to install costs more, but is much, much safer than a dry kit.

whats the diffrence between wet and dry kits. This all sounds pretty interesting to me might be the nex mod in the near future soon. I guess what Im looking for is when someone rolls up next to me on an 04...... I want tham to be in my rear veiw miorror. not really looking to drag my bike. I likie to ride in the twisties too much and do wheel stands so just looking for that little boost. hey spidy are you with tobefast, do you guys have a wet kit. Thanks for all the info. you guys rock.

Dry Kits $369 take one nozzle to install.... Comes with 20, 30 and 40 shot jets... If you are not gonna need more than 60 dry is the way to go..... Otherwise a wety kit is 615.00 we can setup your bike and do the install here at the shop if you want. You would just need to buy all the parts from us and setup or schedule an install date.... We have done nos on plenty of R1's....

Here is a shot of our graves NOS box, set up for a wet kit....... It's plumbed with brake lines... To allow airflow.... I've used boxes in the past that have way too many lines and the airflow is blocked somewhat... That doesn't happen with our s etup...

If you want it for that purpose, (smoking 04's) it probably won't be a practical solution. Here's why: 1. That would mean the bottle valve would need to be in the open position when riding all the time. 2. After leaving the bottle on for an extended period of time, it puts excessive wear on the nitrous solenoid plunger seal. It will wear a small circle into the rubber seals (NOS kit) or even the stronger teflon seals (NX kit). 3. If that seal starts to leak, you will have N20 running into your motor without fuel to compensate leading to engine damage. So, to sum it up you have to open the bottle valve, then arm the system, then get above 6k rpm and then hit the switch. I'm pretty sure by the time you get all that done, even an R6 would have smoked you. P.S. I close the bottle valve and purge the lines after every pass. It's usually an hour between passes.

Look @ that damn Exhoust pipe :rock

That pipe is a bad mofo. I remember you saying it was duped from Akrapovic dimensions. How much is one gonna cost me for my 00' R1? Them lil' 2 strokes sure are fun aren't they!

yea 15 in arm way overkill. actually it slowed bike down. i dont weigh much so it was really a traction problem w.o slick and then slick is taller which makes gearing problem. it looks cool as hell but i bought it real cheap. 60 ft were 1.38-1.45 short wheel base i run 1.52 short times. yes shifter is dale walker push button shifter. spent too much time this year on turbo busa so r1 got set aside. i prefer the bike short wheelbase anyways. the turbo busa only has 4 in over swingarm. kinda dumb.. it right over 60 in class and way under in sbs class. but its work in progress, now im waiting for the 04 to make a 60 in bike outta it.

Here's my setup with the c/f Attack ramair box using the NX kit. NX offers the best possible distribution block possible (showerhead type). We use stainless steel hand bent lines. Those lines take a lot of time to get right when it comes to fit and finish, but I dare you to find a cleaner setup! We also made the same setup for the OE R1 airbox. This installation has seen 40,60 and 80 hp shots on the STOCK motor internals and has outlasted a lot of other chumps slapped together N20 setups at the local test and tune track! One key ingriedient is to use teflon paste instead of teflon tape. Paste will more than likely blow through the tiny orifices and the tape will just clog those little holes right up leading to undesirable results.

Here's my setup with the c/f Attack ramair box using the NX kit. NX offers the best possible distribution block possible (showerhead type). We use stainless steel hand bent lines. Those lines take a lot of time to get right when it comes to fit and finish, but I dare you to find a cleaner setup! We also made the same setup for the OE R1 airbox. This installation has seen 40,60 and 80 hp shots on the STOCK motor internals and has outlasted a lot of other chumps slapped together N20 setups at the local test and tune track! One key ingriedient is to use teflon paste instead of teflon tape on the NPT fittings. Paste will more than likely blow through the tiny orifices and the tape will just clog those little holes right up leading to undesirable results.

gawd guys.. dont tempt me... i'm saving up for a turbo as we speak :finger

Originally posted by tidbit gawd guys.. dont tempt me... i'm saving up for a turbo as we speak :finger The biggest problem tidbit is there isn't a turbo kit available for the 02-03 models and with the new bike unless you pay for the development it doesn't look promising. If you don't mind it a dry nitrous kit is the way to go when your not gonna go over 60 shot... They come with 20, 30 and 40 shot nozzles and only cost $369.00 with a 2.5 pound bottle for the whole kit... :)

hey forza, do u have enuff play in stainless lines to change jets. i must say cleanest setup that i have seen. does the airbox lid seal completely off??? very nice i must say. the showerheads are a must have!! so much cleaner than the distribution blks.

The lines do give enough to get them out of the way and change jets without any hassle.

Shane.. I hear that man.. But I'd def go for a wet nos system.. I'll look you guys up (and bitch at you when i cant figure out something :P).. I wanna install a NOS or turbo before the end of the year

Almost forgot, the airbox is sealed 100% (aside from the front opening obviously) With a lowered bike you lessen the ramair effect since the gap has been closed to nearly nothing between the top of the fender and the bottom of the upper fairing. I am currently not running the ramair setup and opted for the stock box with some airbox inlet modifications. This got rid of the 4,500 to 5000 rpm hp and torque dip and not to mention that with ram air at speeds above @100 mph, more air and fuel is being introduced to the engine, but the fuel solenoid is preset and does not compensate for the ramair effect.

Originally posted by forza Almost forgot, the airbox is sealed 100% (aside from the front opening obviously) With a lowered bike you lessen the ramair effect since the gap has been closed to nearly nothing between the top of the fender and the bottom of the upper fairing. I am currently not running the ramair setup and opted for the stock box with some airbox inlet modifications. This got rid of the 4,500 to 5000 rpm hp and torque dip and not to mention that with ram air at speeds above @100 mph, more air and fuel is being introduced to the engine, but the fuel solenoid is preset and does not compensate for the ramair effect. We are doing a built engine right now with a new progressive box (rather than the 2 dial setup), were going with a bigger box that allows fuel tuning separately from the nitrous..... That should help us alot with fuel tuning issues once on the dyno... We've went 9.45 on a 55 shot, 60" bike..... It should be a a few tenths faster but that weekend we tried a different clutch and it didn't like to shift like it was, so had to let off the nos and get back into it... That was a pain but the bikes are getting worked over big time...!

60" is that axle to axle?

yes it is axle to axle centerlines (wheelbase)

BUMP....